endless NV5600 problems.

[blacker_canyons]

11 hours ago, Ironforger said:

FYIW, 

 

I know you mentioned a new pilot bearing was installed in the new flywheel.   What was the condition of the old pilot bearing?  What was the condition of the tip of the input shaft?

 

I'm wondering about the possibility of the new pilot bearing failing, esp since you mentioned it worked okay for a little while after you put it back together.   When you put it together, did the trans slide in easy for that last 5/8 of an inch? Or did you have to pull it in with bolts?  Also, before putting it together, did you slide that new pilot bearing on the tip of the input shaft to see if it went it tight or easy with no binding?  If it went in too tight, risk you may have damaged the new pilot bearing, hence that input shaft turning while trying to put it in gear.   Unfortunately most clutch kits come with a pilot bearing that fits too damn tight on the input shaft. You should not need to force it.  Bronze (oil impregnated) pilot bushings if set up correctly should slide on easy and are much more robust as long as you don't keep that clutch in for long times while stopped at traffic lights etc. Put her in neutral etc.

 

I'm saying this because when my pilot needle bearing failed, I had the same symptoms you described in your original post. It scored up my input shaft and the trans was not comming to a full stop when I put the clutch in.

 

Fast forward. When my pilot bearing failed, I did the right thing & installed new clutch , cut the flywheel AND installed a new BRONZE pilot bushing. I cleaned up my input shaft and that bronze bushing fit perfectly sliding on the input shaft with no slop or binding. Trans went in the truck like a dream, Did not need to use bolts to push in that last 5/8". Trans slid right into place by hand.

 

 

the pilot bearing was fine when I took the old one out. I was surprised because everyone I talked to was so sure it would be the pilot bearing. it wasn't. the bearing was in good shape and rolled smooth. The new bearing is much heavier duty ball bearing, it's not a thin needle bearing like the stock one. the transmission went in fine. the input shaft was fine. I really don't think it's the pilot bearing. 

Edited September 23, 2022 by blacker_canyons

[Stanley]

The NV5600 is not hard to rebuild, a bit clumsy to do, its completely different than the NV4500. 

I think it could just be the syncros and fluid from the past life. 

I have one of the best parts places for these transmissions here in my home town. Let me know if you need anything, and their super cheap (last time I checked). 

[blacker_canyons]

13 hours ago, Stanley said:

The NV5600 is not hard to rebuild, a bit clumsy to do, its completely different than the NV4500. 

I think it could just be the syncros and fluid from the past life. 

I have one of the best parts places for these transmissions here in my home town. Let me know if you need anything, and their super cheap (last time I checked). 

yeah a rebuild is probably where I'm headed. I'm going to take it out and double check the pilot bearing, throw out bearing, clutch fork, and clutch fork pivot, as well as re-bleed the hydraulics. if that doesn't work, I'm going to rebuild it. 

[Mopar1973Man]

I really don't like prebled clutch hydraulics being 80% you have to rebled again. Then most misadjust the pedal rod length. I typically use NAPA master & slave separate and works 100% of the time.

 

As for that thin MTF it tends to wear out syncros faster than something thicker. I'm also using brass syncro allows thicker lubes, but still 1st and 2nd are carbon fiber syncros. No problems all the way down to -40°F with Mobil 50 SAE trans fluid which is 90 weight gear lube. 

 

Most of my trans issues was wear of the hard facing from using that factory Mopar fluid 75W-85 which is like 10W-30 engine oil. Now ive had most all the gears replaced from hard facing wearing out and breaking teeth.

Edited September 25, 2022 by Mopar1973Man

[blacker_canyons]

1 hour ago, Mopar1973Man said:

I really don't like prebled clutch hydraulics being 80% you have to rebled again. Then most misadjust the pedal rod length. I typically use NAPA master & slave separate and works 100% of the time.

 

As for that thin MTF it tends to wear out syncros faster than something thicker. I'm also using brass syncro allows thicker lubes, but still 1st and 2nd are carbon fiber syncros. No problems all the way down to -40°F with Mobil 50 SAE trans fluid which is 90 weight gear lube. 

 

Most of my trans issues was wear of the hard facing from using that factory Mopar fluid 75W-85 which is like 10W-30 engine oil. Now ive had most all the gears replaced from hard facing wearing out and breaking teeth.

mine is an oreillys pre bled. it isn't adjustable. I'm going to try one more time to bleed it and see if that helps, then i'll be dropping the transmission for the second time in a month and checking out the other stuff. 

 

[Mopar1973Man]

Pull the entire hydraulic system out and hang it by the reservoir and pump the slave cylinder. Quickly in, release slowly. You cannot bled in the vehicle because the line has a high spot that gathers air in.

[Mopar1973Man]

Now you know why I never buy prebled systems. Very low chance it's not got air in the system between manufacture, shipping to a store, you buy it ship it home and expect it not to get air back in the system. Just temperature changes during shipping can draw air in.

[blacker_canyons]

22 hours ago, Mopar1973Man said:

Now you know why I never buy prebled systems. Very low chance it's not got air in the system between manufacture, shipping to a store, you buy it ship it home and expect it not to get air back in the system. Just temperature changes during shipping can draw air in.

I dont know anything yet. haven't done it. 

 

I was just reading another thread about not flat towing with the nv5600, and it reminded me that while I was out of town, I had a friend tow my truck to my place. I told him not to flat tow it, but it would be like him to just flat tow it anyway and not want to deal with the flatbed. Would that explain my hard shifting? 

 

 

 

[Great work!]

Was it 4x4 with transfer case in neutral  or 2x4. How far and how fast?

The lower shaft in the transmission typically doesn't turn when towed so the oil isn't thrown around much, so the top shaft spins inside the gears and can dry up.

[blacker_canyons]

9 minutes ago, Great work! said:

Was it 4x4 with transfer case in neutral  or 2x4. How far and how fast?

The lower shaft in the transmission typically doesn't turn when towed so the oil isn't thrown around much, so the top shaft spins inside the gears and can dry up.

i dunno. I texted him to ask but he hasn't gotten back to me. It's 4x4. I know he would have put the transmission and transfer case in neutral, it's about 2 or 3 miles and the speed limit is like 25 in town. 

Edited September 27, 2022 by blacker_canyons

[Great work!]

two or three miles @ 25 MPH is pretty survivable.

[Mopar1973Man]

Transfer case in neutral the transmission shouldn't spin. Also the oil pump in the transfer case is driven by the rear driveshaft.

 

For what I know of the NV4500 even in neutral both upper and lower shafts spin when towed. 

[Great work!]

I was wrong the 5600 has two gears on the lower shaft that turn when towed so I don't think towing caused your problems. 

https://www.allstategear.com/NV5600-Diagram-s/3087.htm