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jlwelding

Air Filter

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I'm thinking there is no easy way to upgrade a 3rd gen air filter without spending a fair amount of money. 2nd gen's can swap in BHAF for $20-30. I would say because of the price factor, most guys just leave the filtering stock on the 3rd gens. :shrug:

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I an runing the fractory. I cut a hole in the botton and put a comoid fitting and avolant down pipe on it. But a good flex hose would be better and not near as much.

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LOL...I say a little better air flow. First thing I do when I get a vehicle, the stock air box goes. Then the exhaust. I know that it doesn't gain much if any power but I like more air flow. I can't say if they filters better then stock filter but they all claim theirs do so I go w/ it. I do stick w/ dry media filter verses one that you have to oil. JMO.Eugene

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Here is my .02 on a Common rail. I have been involved in the dyno runs up thru 450 rwhp where there was no difference in power on a aftermarket intake and a stock one. That was the reason I modified mine in the following fashion. Home Depot CAI: $20ish http://forum.mopar1973man.com/showthread.php/1986-Home-Deopt-CAI-on-a-3rd-Gen?highlight= Airaid MIT: $70ish http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=AR-300-928 Glacier GDP: $250ish http://www.glacierdieselpower.com/product.aspx?pf_id=0307-PFI With those mods I have seen an increase in throttle response, quicker spool, cooler IAT's, 150-200 rpms quicker to 30 psi, and less restriction (as noted on the filter minder); which from what I have seen is more than you will get out of a CAI, and cheaper. As far as those mods vs a BHAF, I will take those mods too becuase the OE system does a good job of keeping the air cool, 10-15* above ambient on cruise and with my mods I am 6-12* above ambient while cruising. I guarantee those temps are cooler than a BHAF, which means more O2 and lower EGT's.

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LOL...I say a little better air flow. First thing I do when I get a vehicle, the stock air box goes. Then the exhaust. I know that it doesn't gain much if any power but I like more air flow. I can't say if they filters better then stock filter but they all claim theirs do so I go w/ it. I do stick w/ dry media filter verses one that you have to oil. JMO. Eugene

Interesting, I have often wondered people's rationale for chunking stock, but I have never asked! Don't think I would though personally.... My undergraduate degree in accounting has permanently brainwashed me into thinking carefully before spending any money and consequently I am a tightwad. The stock air filter is rated for 675 CFM. BHAF from Napa is rated at 680 CFM. That is according to NAPA's website....... Not sure about the aftermarket, all I know is that they are expensive! Is there some kind of proven problem with the stock air boxes/filters that I haven't heard about like severely restricted flow resulting in some kind of adverse effect? I know on my 05 Chevy Duramax, I have gone about 60k miles before my filter minder even started to pull down. $20 dollar filter and zero altering needed to rig up some other intake. It is awesome, love the filter minder, greatest invention ever hahaha!

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How come you all need to change air filters? What is wrong with the stock one exactly?? Just wondering is all, please don't reply back with something angry

The only reason why I got rid of mine is because of the plastic box... On mine I started to do inspection of the cover lid and finding dust trails where the plastic started to deform and allow dust and dirt to sneak past the filter. The only way I found to stop that was to grease the rubber lip of the air filter. Now this is plain messy. So since I bought my first BHAF 7 years ago and put 126K miles on it... I'm still waiting for the filter minder to move I've tested the filter minder a number of times and it works fine... But the filter just never wants to plug up. So buying a $47 BHAF from Vulcan Performance is the best money I ever spent on a Air Filter.

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The only reason why I got rid of mine is because of the plastic box... On mine I started to do inspection of the cover lid and finding dust trails where the plastic started to deform and allow dust and dirt to sneak past the filter. The only way I found to stop that was to grease the rubber lip of the air filter. Now this is plain messy. So since I bought my first BHAF 7 years ago and put 126K miles on it... I'm still waiting for the filter minder to move I've tested the filter minder a number of times and it works fine... But the filter just never wants to plug up. So buying a $47 BHAF from Vulcan Performance is the best money I ever spent on a Air Filter.

Oh I see :thumbup2: I have noticed the fit and overall finish of the stock 2nd gen box leaves much to be desired.... Have noticed some dust in mine too.

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So since I bought my first BHAF 7 years ago and put 126K miles on it... I'm still waiting for the filter minder to move I've tested the filter minder a number of times and it works fine... But the filter just never wants to plug up. So buying a $47 BHAF from Vulcan Performance is the best money I ever spent on a Air Filter.

You're on the same filter for 7 years? Is it a paper filter? I would think it would be deteriorating in that amount of time, and possibly letting dirt by which is why the filter minder never moves. Have you done any UOA recently to look at silicon? I am not saying its the case, just seems like too long on a paper filter IMHO.

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