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  • Owner
11 hours ago, Max Tune said:

So torx is six point and torx plus is five point. Never knew there was different tooth torx.

Yup. That was my mistake on my first Stealth Plate I grabbed the security 6 point torx but still didn't fit because it was a 5 point. Then seen in the bottom of the bag there was a Torx plus bit and BAM! Easy job when you have the right tools. 

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3 hours ago, LorenS said:

Yep, I have a set of those sockets.  Can't remember what piece of equipment required their purchase.  They certainly don't get used much!

Same here. Perfect tool to get from HF. Steering column in my 89 Chevy pickup got floppy. These were needed. Haven’t needed them since, but I have them.

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On 1/18/2023 at 11:23 AM, Mopar1973Man said:

True Bosch certified pump is NOT a T25. Look security pin in the center and its not 6 point but 5 point. :cookoo:

 

 

I'm the original owner. This is the original VP44. Did dodge not use true Bosch certified pumps? 

 

Today was another one of those days. I moved my trans sending unit from the test port over to the pan. I knew I should have just done this to begin with. Installed the sending unit, filled the trans up. As I was hooking up the wire, with what didn't seem like that much pressure, I felt it pop. Dang it. too tight. The threaded area for the wire spins in the sending unit housing.  Are these a generic item that I can just grab at the parts store? That is, as long as the treads match. A full pan full of fluid wasted. Perhaps if I'm fast enough, I won't lose it all.  Gasoila FasSeal thread sealant is supposed to works on wet, contaminated threads. I guess I'll find out.

 

Since installing quad, I see the FASS 95's fuel pressure is low. It bounced as low as 7 and as high as 10 holding mostly at 9. I ordered a new 17lb spring and ball from vulcan thinking this would fix it. I also put a fresh filter and water separator on. While it did increase it, it's only holding a steady 11lbs now. Are fuel sending units usually accurate? I got it from DAP with the Quad. I think there is an o-ring rebuild kit from FASS. I guess I'll be calling them monday morning. Any idea on what else I might look for to solve this?

 

After I re-redo my trans sending unit, finish replacing my fuel lines and fix my leaky fuel sending unit. Head studs and stealth plate are all thats left. On that note, do all valve covers need to be ground down in the rear with head studs?

 

Then on to the front end. Ball joints, bearings, u-joints, tie rods, track bar, sway bar bushings and a steering box brace. I'll finally get my 3rd gen rotor backing plates on too. The old girl should be ready for Yellowstone.

Edited by 1361
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9 hours ago, 1361 said:

I also put a fresh filter and water separator on.

One place to check is the sock/strainer inside the fuel tank. My dad's was full of trash when he cleaned his, and mine had maybe a tuna can's worth of crud packed around it and even more in the tank.

 

I cleaned mine the same time I moved my stock pump to the frame rail so can't say which one was the reason my fuel pressure went up, but surely neither hurt. Now I have a FASS DRP on the frame, no sock in the tank (draw straw), and the spin-on fuel strainer on the frame.

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2006 I installed the AirDog 150. About 250k miles later the pump finally gave up and the pump seals failed and ate the bearing and failed. I was warrantied by AirDog and given a 3rd Gen pump head 150 GPH. It barely lasted few thousand miles and failed the same way the seals gave up diesel fuel washed out the bearings. Then I called again and AirDog upgraded me to the AirDog 165 GPH pump head. No issues since then. I kept my stock filter and install a 7um filter in the stock and 3um filter on the AirDog. Currently at 460k miles. 

 

Tidbit... 467k miles I'm made the trip to the moon and back. Then I'm going to load up and go again... :burnout2:

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