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Cummins2001

How to get lower egt's

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Cummins2001

I am wanting to know what upgrades I need to do to lower my egt's. Right now I run a tst powermax3. On level 2 runnin down the interstate truck runs 800 degrees.. On power level 6 pulling 10k pretty slow under 40 i ran well over 1200 pullin a small hill.. So I need to make some changes to keep it down.. On level 8 goin 60 I hit over 1200 also.. So if i decide to pull a load down the hyway at 60 egt's are gonna be crazy high.. so lets here your ideas..

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MnTom

First thing to think of is a better air intake and upgraded exhaust. Then start looking at turbos.......

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ISX

The interesting part is Johnfak has the same issue, and you both have 01' autos, meaning you both have that 9cm exhaust housing. I would get a 12 like everyone else has. The 9cm restricts the exhaust and you don't want that when your towing. They put the 9 on so it would spool up quick, the tradeoff is its a bottleneck. I predict this is the main problem between your's and John's truck. After that, a straight pipe will help, but John has a 4" straight pipe and obviously he still has EGT issues, but I am almost certain it is because of the 9cm bottleneck. You could put a 10" exhaust on but it still has to go through that bottleneck.

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Mopar1973Man

Like myself I've got a Edge Comp tapped on 5x5 and RV275 injectors and I never turn it down at all... I can haul heavy firewood and not think twice... This is because I do have 12cm2 (HX35) exhaust housing over the 9cm2 (HY35). I'm just a straight pipe exhaust and a BHAF... This load in the pic set the cruise at 60 MPH and hover at 800-900*F heading home all up hill from Riggins, ID (1,800 to 2,800ft elevation). post-2-138698171562_thumb.jpg

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white01

don't run the box on the upper power levels,get some twins,water/methanol,propane:thumbup2:

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ISX

My last run with a truck on a trailer (6000lbs) I had results like this. This was 5th gear going uphill and me keeping it at speed. So the 2000RPM shows what the EGT is at about 68mph with it holding constant. Each reading is showing how hot the EGT got to hold it constant at that rpm going up those hills. You can see the lower the RPM, the higher the EGT, and it is pretty exponential as you lug it the thing will just start to spike since the boost isn't there and there is no real flow through the engine to take the heat away. That is why you would downshift, I could be at 1500RPM in 5th and melt it or put it in 4th and be down to 800F at the same speed.

You hitting over 1200 on a hill at 40mph is unreal, what RPM was it at doing that? If you get to any big hills with a big load you gotta get the boost and RPM up, 2000 is the sweet spot on mine, from there on I can pull any hill and not worry about EGT, that is why I do 70mph every time I pull a trailer.

Posted Image

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Blueox01

What size exhuast housing do the 01 w/6 speeds have? I never get over 1100 on my EGT's (pulling 12-15k) up grades out west, but i don't have my truck turned up a lot.

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Cummins2001

My last run with a truck on a trailer (6000lbs) I had results like this. This was 5th gear going uphill and me keeping it at speed. So the 2000RPM shows what the EGT is at about 68mph with it holding constant. Each reading is showing how hot the EGT got to hold it constant at that rpm going up those hills. You can see the lower the RPM, the higher the EGT, and it is pretty exponential as you lug it the thing will just start to spike since the boost isn't there and there is no real flow through the engine to take the heat away. That is why you would downshift, I could be at 1500RPM in 5th and melt it or put it in 4th and be down to 800F at the same speed.

You hitting over 1200 on a hill at 40mph is unreal, what RPM was it at doing that? If you get to any big hills with a big load you gotta get the boost and RPM up, 2000 is the sweet spot on mine, from there on I can pull any hill and not worry about EGT, that is why I do 70mph every time I pull a trailer.

Posted Image

I was pulling a 12 row corn head to a different field so I couldnt go very fast or it would start swayin and bouncin.. it pulled the motor down to 1500rmp and i had the converter locked. I got the exhaust straight piped and I have a BHAF.

--- Update to the previous post...

12cm. Only the 01 autos have the 9cm HY35.

where would I get this bigger bottle neck.. Any pictures of it. Is it the curved part after the turbo? and turbo boost was runnin bout 15-18 psi i believe.. probually to low for the kind of power i got.. Ive hit 40 psi boost on level 9 and the egts are still pretty dang high.. Never went over 1000 with my 65hp chip. not i get there with less Hp on this new chip.

--- Update to the previous post...

12cm. Only the 01 autos have the 9cm HY35.

Would the HX35 be a direct bolt on.? Would the wastgate be the same>:shrug:

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rburks

I was pulling a 12 row corn head to a different field so I couldnt go very fast or it would start swayin and bouncin.. it pulled the motor down to 1500rmp and i had the converter locked. I got the exhaust straight piped and I have a BHAF.

--- Update to the previous post...

where would I get this bigger bottle neck.. Any pictures of it. Is it the curved part after the turbo? and turbo boost was runnin bout 15-18 psi i believe.. probually to low for the kind of power i got.. Ive hit 40 psi boost on level 9 and the egts are still pretty dang high.. Never went over 1000 with my 65hp chip. not i get there with less Hp on this new chip.

--- Update to the previous post...

Would the HX35 be a direct bolt on.? Would the wastgate be the same>:shrug:

Cummins 2001...I to had the same issue after adding edge juice/att box & 50hp injectors..and I have a 2002 Auto trans. in a 3500-2WD w/HY35 TURBO w/9cm housing. I could run up 1350EGT every time i got on the go pedal and stayed in it... After i recently Installed a new ATS Aurora 3000 Turbo w/ ATS Pulse Flow Exhaust Manifold Kit..I cant make it go over 1050EGT ..most of the time around 900-950 pulling & around 700-750 crusing on highway

SO....ISX is correct..the 9cm exhaust housing on the stock HY35 Turbo won't allow any upgrade in power...the EGT'S were borderline on my truck "STOCK" with no box and injectors when pulling a load of any size..

And you can't swap out the exhaust housing on the HY35 for a HX35..HX35 bolts to the compressor housing and the HY35 has a big Snap-ring holding it on compressor housing..

Good Luck:thumbup2:

Richie

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ISX

I think rburks answered all your questions :thumbup2:But you running 1500RPM is the main issue.. You should never lug it like that with a trailer, downshift it. Only problem there is you would be in 2nd gear which I don't think locks the torque converter, so your trans would heat up, but it would have been at 2200RPM which would have been a lot better. Problem is that lugging it with a trailer like that and going up a hill will pretty much send any truck over the edge on EGT's, there simply isn't enough engine RPM to get rid of the heat and the momentum of the engine is so low that any fuel you give it really doesn't do anything but add to the heat. You have to get the RPM up so it has some momentum and horsepower and then the engine will sing. The 12cm will help but if you see on the chart I made, I am in the same boat as you at 1500RPM. So basically, you just need to keep it higher up in the RPM's.

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Cummins2001

Ok.. I can see where you get your conclusion.. Basically egt go through the roof at highway speeds to.. Im runnnin 800 degrees on light throttle going 70mph. thats on power level 2 also so thats only 30hp extra. Can i swap out the hy35 with the hx35? like the whole thing housing and turbo. ? I found some good deal on a used one with a bad waste gate actavator.

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ISX

The HY35 will screw you over at highway speeds and low RPM will also screw you over. You can't evade the latter except downshifting but the HX35 should give your highway speed EGT a good drop. Everyone swaps them out so I imagine they are a direct swap. Rburks sounds like he has done it so maybe he will chime in on the swap.

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JOHNFAK

don't run the box on the upper power levels,get some twins,water/methanol,propane:thumbup2:

yeah - unfortunately what the ^^^^^big dog said ^^^^^^ I just bought a methanol/water kit ................... Bigger Turbo was the other option. HX35 or a hybrid would be a cheaper way of turbo upgrade as with the HX35 lots of guys get rid of them when they upgrade their manuals. ~$250. Think Jacob does a hybrid deal.

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rburks

I think rburks answered all your questions :thumbup2:

But you running 1500RPM is the main issue.. You should never lug it like that with a trailer, downshift it. Only problem there is you would be in 2nd gear which I don't think locks the torque converter, so your trans would heat up, but it would have been at 2200RPM which would have been a lot better. Problem is that lugging it with a trailer like that and going up a hill will pretty much send any truck over the edge on EGT's, there simply isn't enough engine RPM to get rid of the heat and the momentum of the engine is so low that any fuel you give it really doesn't do anything but add to the heat. You have to get the RPM up so it has some momentum and horsepower and then the engine will sing. The 12cm will help but if you see on the chart I made, I am in the same boat as you at 1500RPM. So basically, you just need to keep it higher up in the RPM's.

I agree with ISX that keeping the RPM's up when pulling, especialy pulling a Hill, is a must in order to control EGT's...having said that...1500RPM isn"t Lugging as much as you would think w/the HY35 Turbo..that thing spools at 1100-1200 w/the boost fooled..I mean its strong at 1500RPM but it curves over by the time you get to 2000rpm or just before...towing w/ any mods. at all requires you to watch the PYRO and down shift accordingly..annd.. back your foot of the go pedal...:smart:"YOU WILL NEVER BE ABLE TO USE EVEN HALF THE ADDED HP. FROM THAT BOX WITHOUT MELTING HER DOWN UNLESS YOU UPGRADE THAT TURBO & EXHAUST...I mean you can run that box wide open on the highest setting..but especially when towing your going to have to back out of the throttle and keep the turbo spooled tight{2000rpm+} "cant keep your foot in it very long"

The problem is a 2-phase issue with the exhaust turbine wheel & housing... 1#it isn"t large enough to pull the exhaust gasses out of the engine fast enough #2 the exhaust turbine wheel is so small that it can't turn the compressor wheel fast enough to make the desired air needed....

hope this helps you out:thumbup2:

Richie

--- Update to the previous post...

Ok.. I can see where you get your conclusion.. Basically egt go through the roof at highway speeds to.. Im runnnin 800 degrees on light throttle going 70mph. thats on power level 2 also so thats only 30hp extra. Can i swap out the hy35 with the hx35? like the whole thing housing and turbo. ? I found some good deal on a used one with a bad waste gate actavator.

YES.. You can swap to an HX35 complete turbo but you will have to change your down pipe...your HY35 has a 3.5" adaptor flange elbo that bolts up to the back of turbo exhaust housing & connects to the 3.5"down pipe via a ball seat type deal simular to whats on a V8 GM gas motor. The HX35 uses a V-Band clamp to connect and seal to the turbo exhaust housing.. the flange on the turbo exhaust housing is 3.5"dia.

I HAVE A NEW Stainless Steel 4"to 3.5" downpipe for HX35 or any turbo w/3.5" flange for V-BAND connection ..this is to be used with a 4" exhaust system:whistle:

Richie

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Cummins2001

Ive seen an hx40 turbo for dodges is this a bigger turbo.. Im gonna get 4 or 5" exhaust for it sometime.. Whats a good resonablely priced turbo to go with.. I could rig up twins but that looks to hard and the kits are way to much $$$$.

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ISX

Yeah the HX40 is bigger, they use it on the 8.3 cummins. I am not sure how good it spools down low, the HX35 seems to have a really good map as far as I can tell with it on my truck. You can get them really cheap too.

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JOHNFAK

well the hx35 is going to be cheapest option as manual guys get rid of these to upgrade. ~$250 Anything else is generally $1000+ new and $750-$850 second hand - due to upgraded compressor/wheel everything There is a hyrid 35/40 - I think thats closer to $600 new. eg http://www.dieselautopower.com/product_p/dodgezilla%2035-fslash-40.htm So lots of choices ..... but if your not planning to upgrade any further - the HX35 for $250 might be best value :) Else those hybrids look nice. If you go crazy - then the s300 or a twin setup - but minimum $1k.

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Cummins2001

Sounds good.. I see a brand new hx35 on ebay for 199. or i can get a used one for less but i would have to put a new waste gate on it cause it wouldnt hold a vac the guy said.

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JOHNFAK
Sounds good.. I see a brand new hx35 on ebay for 199. or i can get a used one for less but i would have to put a new waste gate on it cause it wouldnt hold a vac the guy said.

Don't know anything about the ebay ones - are they genuine holset ?? They are probably fine.

I would look over at CF. I know some moderators and key people were selling HX35's used for around 250 shipped. Since its off a working truck - thats what I would look for ................ I think you need a downpipe adjustment for the exhaust ?? Not sure ...... I think thats what rburks meant;

You can swap to an HX35 complete turbo but you will have to change your down pipe...your HY35 has a 3.5" adaptor flange elbo that bolts up to the back of turbo exhaust housing & connects to the 3.5"down pipe via a ball seat type deal simular to whats on a V8 GM gas motor. The HX35 uses a V-Band clamp to connect and seal to the turbo exhaust housing.. the flange on the turbo exhaust housing is 3.5"dia.

I HAVE A NEW Stainless Steel 4"to 3.5" downpipe for HX35 or any turbo w/3.5" flange for V-BAND connection ..this is to be used with a 4" exhaust system:whistle2: [ /QUOTE]

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Cummins2001
Don't know anything about the ebay ones - are they genuine holset ?? They are probably fine.

I would look over at CF. I know some moderators and key people were selling HX35's used for around 250 shipped. Since its off a working truck - thats what I would look for ................ I think you need a downpipe adjustment for the exhaust ?? Not sure ...... I think thats what rburks meant;

guy on ebay says its off a 1998.5 dodge ram 3500 cummins.. Its a hx35w and here is the link to see it http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=170557717707&ssPageName=ADME:X:RTQ:MOTORS:1123.

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rburks

Sounds good.. I see a brand new hx35 on ebay for 199. or i can get a used one for less but i would have to put a new waste gate on it cause it wouldnt hold a vac the guy said.

IF YO ARE GOING WITH NEW: 2-recomendations

Switzer S300 {dont go any larger than 12cm on exhaust end &around 60 on the compressor end}

price is around 1000.00

ATS Aurora3000: This turbo is said to be designed & Mapped specificely for the Cummins 24valve running mild mods & injectors.." it does not have a waste gate" comes with 4"S/S Down pipe and all gaskets and hardware.. "BACKED BY A UNLIMITED 3YR. 150,000MILE WARRANTY...

price..around... 1450.00+

IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON A GOOD HX35 i would say you would be satisifed...but that is a story within its self..be aware of play in the shaft from side to side you should be able to feel the play but not see it... it must have 10,000 play to allow oil to coat and pass around the bearings

If i was going to go With a used HX35 I would look for a good core at a cheep price with very little play and make sure the blades have no been rubbing the housing..then i would send it to a turbo shop such as D.I.S. and let them rebuild it with new seals and bearings..i think you could end up with aroud 1/2 the price of new...

:smart:BE AWARE OF THE EBAY TURBOS, THEY ARE CHINA KNOCK-OFF'S of a HX35 if you look close to photos the # on the housing casting is chinesse...:nono:

Richie

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Cummins2001

IF YO ARE GOING WITH NEW: 2-recomendations

Switzer S300 {dont go any larger than 12cm on exhaust end &around 60 on the compressor end}

price is around 1000.00

ATS Aurora3000: This turbo is said to be designed & Mapped specificely for the Cummins 24valve running mild mods & injectors.." it does not have a waste gate" comes with 4"S/S Down pipe and all gaskets and hardware.. "BACKED BY A UNLIMITED 3YR. 150,000MILE WARRANTY...

price..around... 1450.00+

IF YOU CAN GET YOUR HANDS ON A GOOD HX35 i would say you would be satisifed...but that is a story within its self..be aware of play in the shaft from side to side you should be able to feel the play but not see it... it must have 10,000 play to allow oil to coat and pass around the bearings

If i was going to go With a used HX35 I would look for a good core at a cheep price with very little play and make sure the blades have no been rubbing the housing..then i would send it to a turbo shop such as D.I.S. and let them rebuild it with new seals and bearings..i think you could end up with aroud 1/2 the price of new...

:smart:BE AWARE OF THE EBAY TURBOS, THEY ARE CHINA KNOCK-OFF'S of a HX35 if you look close to photos the # on the housing casting is chinesse...:nono:

Richie

I didnt notice the lettering befor. thanks for mentioning that.. How bout this turbo? Same guy sellin it but this is the original oem. Sounds like it only has a bad wategate valve? http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewItem&item=120639213379&ssPageName=STRK:MEWAX:IT

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JOHNFAK
Cummins2001

That last link is water/meth injection right.. How does that work? I thought water and engines didnt mix.

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