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      High Idle Kit Sale   09/06/2017

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agrossm

3 cylinder high idle

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agrossm    0
agrossm

I just bought my truck a few months ago, this is my first diesel and I am very happy with it. I've been looking into getting the high idle and 3 cylinder high idle enabled on it and getting the fooler as I am tired of waiting for it to warm up. My concern is does the 3 cylinder high idle wear 3 cylinders more than the other 3? Does the firing order alternate when in 3 cylinder high idle? I just don't want to tear the engine up. I would think that if Cummins included this in the software that it would be ok to use, after all they are the experts.

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ISX    58
ISX

It uses I think the front 3 cylinders, it doesn't switch them. The injectors cease to fire on the last 3. It really doesn't wear anything more than the others I wouldn't think, I mean all 6 pistons are still moving. The fact that the front 3 have to drive the back 3 is actually why it helps heat the engine up.

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Wild and Free    1,116
Wild and Free

No need to have the high idle activated if you are going with a fooler. There is no issue with wear, it just causes an artificial load on 3 cylinders to create more cylinder heat to warm things up a bit faster, It will only be activated under a certain temp and will kick out to just an elevated idle at a certain temp. Just to remind everyone once again, It is called elevated idle or fast idle, as "HIGH IDLE" is technically no load wide open throttle.:smart:

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AH64ID    651
AH64ID

No need to have the high idle activated if you are going with a fooler. There is no issue with wear, it just causes an artificial load on 3 cylinders to create more cylinder heat to warm things up a bit faster, It will only be activated under a certain temp and will kick out to just an elevated idle at a certain temp. Just to remind everyone once again, It is called elevated idle or fast idle, as "HIGH IDLE" is technically no load wide open throttle.:smart:

I thought it still had to be activated, as all your doing is fooling the ECM into thinking the parameters are met for fast idle. If its not activated the truck will idle the same as it would without the fooler, and 0* out. Oh, and good luck with the fast idle vs high idle, i've been working that one for years:banghead:

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Mopar1973Man    3,797
Mopar1973Man

Yeah the software is already present on all 24V 98.5 to 2002 Dodge trucks but the software was disabled by Dodge so yes you must have it re-enabled to be able to use it. As for the wear factor... The 3 dead cylinders are 1,2,3 and the 3 firing cylinders are 4,5,6... As for wear there is none because the 1,2,3 are just pumping air no fuel is injected at all. So these dead cylinders create a virtual loading of the engine causing the engine to warm up rapidily... Like my truck produces between 600-1,000*F worth of EGT's with exhaust brake and either 6 or 3 cylinder high idle... Oh... W & F I know about the term too but I think is a losing battle... :tongue:

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white01    0
white01

Yeah the software is already present on all 24V 98.5 to 2002 Dodge trucks but the software was disabled by Dodge so yes you must have it re-enabled to be able to use it. As for the wear factor... The 3 dead cylinders are 1,2,3 and the 3 firing cylinders are 4,5,6... As for wear there is none because the 1,2,3 are just pumping air no fuel is injected at all. So these dead cylinders create a virtual loading of the engine causing the engine to warm up rapidily... Like my truck produces between 600-1,000*F worth of EGT's with exhaust brake and either 6 or 3 cylinder high idle... Oh... W & F I know about the term too but I think is a losing battle... :tongue:

exactly..you beat me to it!!!!:thumbup2::thumbup2:

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Wild and Free    1,116
Wild and Free

I learned something new today..........I thought the fooler was a forced Fast idle, I didn't think it needed to be enabled also. If it needs to be enabled then I see no use for a fooler especially At $3.30 a gallon . Only needs a couple minutes to get cylinder temps up to drive it safely and easy for a couple miles.:tongue: If you want hot air in the cab install an in cab heater. Or find a woman to ride with you.:tease:

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AH64ID    651
AH64ID

Foolers are nice becuase you can trip the 6cyl fast idle for extended idling, or during periods of high amp draw, or to cool the motor quicker. I use the OE fast idle on my truck all the time.

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dripley    1,151
dripley

i you have the oe fast idle how or what do you do for it to work?

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Wild and Free    1,116
Wild and Free

i you have the oe fast idle how or what do you do for it to work?

AH64ID has a 3rd gen CR and when it is enabled on those you can just activae it through the cruise control buttons. But not on the 03 models it was automatic like the second gens and can't make it work with the cruise.

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Prowelder    3
Prowelder

Yeah the software is already present on all 24V 98.5 to 2002 Dodge trucks but the software was disabled by Dodge so yes you must have it re-enabled to be able to use it. As for the wear factor... The 3 dead cylinders are 1,2,3 and the 3 firing cylinders are 4,5,6... As for wear there is none because the 1,2,3 are just pumping air no fuel is injected at all. So these dead cylinders create a virtual loading of the engine causing the engine to warm up rapidily... Like my truck produces between 600-1,000*F worth of EGT's with exhaust brake and either 6 or 3 cylinder high idle... Oh... W & F I know about the term too but I think is a losing battle... :tongue:

Yep, yep, yep. You can call it what you want, but I'll stick with High Idle as that is the most common term people can remember. I prefer to let my engine warm up before I go driving it, but each to their own. It's your truck, your money, do with it what you want.:thumbup2:

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white01    0
white01

same here..i am gunna take care of my 53 block as long as i can..163,000+ miles and i like it..like my high/3cyl idle box....

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AH64ID    651
AH64ID

Cummins released a brochure that stated the engines should be driven sooner rather than later when cold. Let it get good oil pressure, run for 30 or so seconds if really cold and drive away is the best thing you can do for your motor. Now thats generally what I do, but depending on what I am doing (taking the kids out, up and down the road at elk camp, etc) I will let it warm up first for some comfort. But I prefer to let it get warm with 90 minutes of block heater and drive off.I also don't like using the exhaust brake on a cold motor, I am pretty sure it puts tons of soot into the oil (based on UOA). If I am going to idle with the EB on I will let the truck run for a few minutes at a fast idle, then turn the EB on. I think it helps the rings seal and gets the combustion temps up.

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Prowelder    3
Prowelder

Cummins released a brochure that stated the engines should be driven sooner rather than later when cold. Let it get good oil pressure, run for 30 or so seconds if really cold and drive away is the best thing you can do for your motor. Now thats generally what I do, but depending on what I am doing (taking the kids out, up and down the road at elk camp, etc) I will let it warm up first for some comfort. But I prefer to let it get warm with 90 minutes of block heater and drive off. I also don't like using the exhaust brake on a cold motor, I am pretty sure it puts tons of soot into the oil (based on UOA). If I am going to idle with the EB on I will let the truck run for a few minutes at a fast idle, then turn the EB on. I think it helps the rings seal and gets the combustion temps up.

I'm always a little leery of information from someone that has everything to gain from selling more of something. But I'm no engineer, just a guy with several cars with 250-350K miles on them, all with great compression and oil pressure. I've known several trucks that weren't warmed up and they are weak as can be. Just my preference, like I said each to their own. But what the high idle does is add a little load to the engine to help warm it up without requiring it to carry the weight of the truck.:thumbup2:

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agrossm    0
agrossm

Thanks all for the info. I think I'll schedule an appointment w/ the local Dodge dealer to have this option enabled. Then I'll start saving for a fooler. Any other recommendations for a new diesel owner?

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agrossm    0
agrossm

Full set of gauges... :smart: Fuel Pressure, Pyrometer, Boost, Transmission Temp.

That is on my x-mas list. I wasn't going to get trans. temp though b/c I have a manual transmission. I was going to get Pyrometer and Boost w/ the BD Diesel low fuel pressure light.

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AH64ID    651
AH64ID

That is on my x-mas list. I wasn't going to get trans. temp though b/c I have a manual transmission. I was going to get Pyrometer and Boost w/ the BD Diesel low fuel pressure light.

IMHO a low pressure light is a waste of $$. Spend a few more bucks and get a real gauge.

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Prowelder    3
Prowelder

Full set of gauges! Fuel pressure, EGTs, Boost along with a better fuel system like a Raptor or Airdog.:thumbup2:Let me know if I can help you out with a fooler!:thumbup2:

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Heavyd1980    1
Heavyd1980

that is all true i have the high idle box from prowelder and i have to take my truck down to dodge and have them enable the high idle software! also i would get a good lift pump i.e. fass air dog. and start up a 2 cycle diet that'll keep that vp goin strong!!!:thumbup2:

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dobienut    11
dobienut

IMHO a low pressure light is a waste of $$. Spend a few more bucks and get a real gauge.

I agree, get the gauge :spend:

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volkswagon    7
volkswagon

I agree, get the gauge :spend:

Same here. But if you still want the warning light I can give you a good deal on the one I got (but didn't install) before I got on here and learned the truth about fuel pressure.:thumb1:

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white01    0
white01

I'm always a little leery of information from someone that has everything to gain from selling more of something. But I'm no engineer, just a guy with several cars with 250-350K miles on them, all with great compression and oil pressure. I've known several trucks that weren't warmed up and they are weak as can be. Just my preference, like I said each to their own. But what the high idle does is add a little load to the engine to help warm it up without requiring it to carry the weight of the truck.:thumbup2:

what i did today and what is said here is true/cool....went to start truck after work and on my att. monitor i selected the "load%" for one of the parameters to monitor...flipped the switch to high idle and the % went to 13% and then i flipped the switch down to 3 cyl. and the load % went to 30%...cool huh!!!:thumbup2::thumbup2::thumbup2:

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uber racing    0
uber racing

I need a bit of info. I had the High idle flash TSB originally done at the dealer, and worked fine. ( also hav high idle fooler) I was running the S03 with REVO S03V126CDR12A.7z on standard settings and caTcher on SW#3. Again High Idle worked fine. I made an update to SW#5 but decided to go back to #3. After doing this the High Idle feature quit working? I reflashed my SO3 with SmtEV1_22D207A.7z and the feature started working again on the stock setting. When I added in the caTacher SW#3 the high idle feature stopped working again? Is this normal, or is my file corrupt?

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Prowelder    3
Prowelder

I need a bit of info. I had the High idle flash TSB originally done at the dealer, and worked fine. ( also hav high idle fooler) I was running the S03 with REVO S03V126CDR12A.7z on standard settings and caTcher on SW#3. Again High Idle worked fine. I made an update to SW#5 but decided to go back to #3. After doing this the High Idle feature quit working? I reflashed my SO3 with SmtEV1_22D207A.7z and the feature started working again on the stock setting. When I added in the caTacher SW#3 the high idle feature stopped working again? Is this normal, or is my file corrupt?

I didn't have any problems when I had the Smarty in my truck for a little while, but white01 had a problem that when he returned his truck back to stock (to loan me the Smarty), it turned off his high idle. Sounds like something that Bob Wagner could answer for you.:thumbup2:

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