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Going to get a boost fooler,just getting opinions on which is the best one. I have an 01 H.O. that is getting RV275's put in and a boost elbow:shrug:

Depends upon what kind of results, hp, and torque you are looking to achieve. What did you have in mind?
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Just want the turbo to push 30-35psi,I baby my truck just want the little extra when i need it.:thumbup2:

In my opinion, the simplest and most cost effective route would be to find a used Edge EZ. This will do exactly what you are wanting. There are other options out there that will do this or exceed this and allow adjustablility above or below this goal but the cost is substantially more. Your profile didn't show what if any mods you may already have on your truck. If your truck is stock and you are making these mods, you should know that you will need to upgrade the air induction and exhaust as you may run into EGT issues pushing this much boost through a stock OEM airbox and exhaust. I strongly recommend a BHAF with heat shield and a 4 inch or larger exhaust. In addition to the EGT issue, you are likely to set the air filter minder each time you pull 30 or more lbs. of boost through a stock OEM airbox. Mine did but I went with a bit larger injectors.
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In my opinion, the simplest and most cost effective route would be to find a used Edge EZ. This will do exactly what you are wanting. There are other options out there that will do this or exceed this and allow adjustablility above or below this goal but the cost is substantially more. Your profile didn't show what if any mods you may already have on your truck. If your truck is stock and you are making these mods, you should know that you will need to upgrade the air induction and exhaust as you may run into EGT issues pushing this much boost through a stock OEM airbox and exhaust. I strongly recommend a BHAF with heat shield and a 4 inch or larger exhaust. In addition to the EGT issue, you are likely to set the air filter minder each time you pull 30 or more lbs. of boost through a stock OEM airbox. Mine did but I went with a bit larger injectors.

I do have a Hypetech programmer,and straight exhuast,gauges and am installing a Bully Dog RFI Cold Air. I guess i was just looking at the Quadzilla or BD boost foolers just so the ECM won't defuel when boosting,My truck has almost 800k and I pull for a living,not going to HOT ROD it and it pulls everything i've ever hooked to just looking for a little more power when i want and a bit better MPG's thats why i've got some RV275's getting made.
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You are already part of the way there if you have the exhaust. I would loose the Hypertech Programmer. The combination of the BHAF, Edge EZ, exhaust, and 275 injectors is a tried, true, and simple combination that has proven to work very well yet be very moderate and reasonable with respect to a wide range of driving applications. Pretty much plug and play. There are tons of plug-in programming/timing boxes out there. The Van Acken and Edge EZ are probably the two that have been out the longest. The only other programmer I would use if not the Edge EZ I am currently using would be the Smarty but at about $650 with shipping give or take that is a lot more expensive but it will give you a lot more latitude with "tunability" and finding a tune that you prefer best. It also acts as a code reader as well and allows you to add the cold weather high idle if not already installed. The last item you may have to attend to is the clutch. Depending upon the condition of your current clutch, the added hp and torque may be such that it may cause your current clutch to slip in the higher gears with above typical power applied or plugging/hauling a heavy load. I had about 50,000 miles on my OEM clutch when we installed the injectors and Edge on mine and it would slip in 5th and 6th gear with a lot of power applied or hauling a heavy load of wood. The clutch is fine, it is just not designed to hold that much power. With the price of new clutches, I am NOT gonna trash can a perfectly good clutch with that low a mileage on it. I have learned to "calibrate" my right foot to avoid clutch slippage. Eventually I will install a South Bend Clutch when the time comes. Your clutch may or may not slip if you still have the OEM clutch installed in your truck. Just be aware of the potential possibility and watch for it. In the event is does happen, back off the throttle immediately and/or shift to a lower gear. If you are pulling for a living or hotshoting, a stronger clutch may be something you want to install right away.

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did you get your 275's in yet?and save your self some money..get a bhaf..toss your air box only and use the according looking hose that is on there and the bhaf air filter hose clamps right to it!!!:thumbup2:if you want more boost and you have a hx35 you can take the hose off of the wastegate side and fold it over and zip tie it or just put a bolt into it....CAUTION..DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK BECAUSE THE EXTRA BOOST PSI WILL NOT DUMP OUT TO THRU THE WASTEGATE..IT WILL GO UNTIL IT COMES APART OR YOU GET OUT OF THE THROTTLE!!YOU SHOULD SEE IN THE 30'S RANGE THEN!!REMEMBER..YOUR WASTEGATE HAS BEEN BYPASSED!!:thumbup2::woot:

--- Update to the previous post...

looks like this..Posted Image

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You are already part of the way there if you have the exhaust. I would loose the Hypertech Programmer. The combination of the BHAF, Edge EZ, exhaust, and 275 injectors is a tried, true, and simple combination that has proven to work very well yet be very moderate and reasonable with respect to a wide range of driving applications. Pretty much plug and play.

There are tons of plug-in programming/timing boxes out there. The Van Acken and Edge EZ are probably the two that have been out the longest. The only other programmer I would use if not the Edge EZ I am currently using would be the Smarty but at about $650 with shipping give or take that is a lot more expensive but it will give you a lot more latitude with "tunability" and finding a tune that you prefer best. It also acts as a code reader as well and allows you to add the cold weather high idle if not already installed.

The last item you may have to attend to is the clutch. Depending upon the condition of your current clutch, the added hp and torque may be such that it may cause your current clutch to slip in the higher gears with above typical power applied or plugging/hauling a heavy load.

I had about 50,000 miles on my OEM clutch when we installed the injectors and Edge on mine and it would slip in 5th and 6th gear with a lot of power applied or hauling a heavy load of wood. The clutch is fine, it is just not designed to hold that much power. With the price of new clutches, I am NOT gonna trash can a perfectly good clutch with that low a mileage on it. I have learned to "calibrate" my right foot to avoid clutch slippage. Eventually I will install a South Bend Clutch when the time comes.

Your clutch may or may not slip if you still have the OEM clutch installed in your truck. Just be aware of the potential possibility and watch for it. In the event is does happen, back off the throttle immediately and/or shift to a lower gear. If you are pulling for a living or hotshoting, a stronger clutch may be something you want to install right away.

I have a 14" clutch and a fuller 8406,not really worried about it. So whats those boost foolers do?

--- Update to the previous post...

did you get your 275's in yet?and save your self some money..get a bhaf..toss your air box only and use the according looking hose that is on there and the bhaf air filter hose clamps right to it!!!:thumbup2:if you want more boost and you have a hx35 you can take the hose off of the wastegate side and fold it over and zip tie it or just put a bolt into it....CAUTION..DO THIS AT YOUR OWN RISK BECAUSE THE EXTRA BOOST PSI WILL NOT DUMP OUT TO THRU THE WASTEGATE..IT WILL GO UNTIL IT COMES APART OR YOU GET OUT OF THE THROTTLE!!YOU SHOULD SEE IN THE 30'S RANGE THEN!!REMEMBER..YOUR WASTEGATE HAS BEEN BYPASSED!!:thumbup2::woot:

--- Update to the previous post...

looks like this..Posted Image

So throw away that Bully Dog RFI? The RV275's have been on back order so Diesel Specialties ordered just the Nozzles and going to build me a set,hopefully will be done after i deliver this trailer i'm picking up in LA(the state)to MT and get back home.

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The ECM is programmed to limit fuel to the engine through the injector pump at approximately 20 psi boost pressure. The boost fooler or box you install send a signal voltage to the ECM to fool into sensing boost is below this pressure so fuel continues to increase. The boost elbow changes and increases the boost pressure the turbocharger waste gate opens. The OEM elbow is designed to open the waste gate at approximately 20 psi boost pressure. Together with the larger injectors, the fuel, boost, and power output is increased in a compatible manner. Typically boost pressure is increased to around 30 to 35 psi before the waste gate opens. More than 35 psi is hard on the OEM turbocharger and getting into head gasket blowing territory. I realize this is off topic but I would be really interested in the story of how you installed a Fuller 8406 in your truck. Would make for a very interesting separate thread. :thumbup2:

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The ECM is programmed to limit fuel to the engine through the injector pump at approximately 20 psi boost pressure. The boost fooler or box you install send a signal voltage to the ECM to fool into sensing boost is below this pressure so fuel continues to increase. The boost elbow changes and increases the boost pressure the turbocharger waste gate opens. The OEM elbow is designed to open the waste gate at approximately 20 psi boost pressure. Together with the larger injectors, the fuel, boost, and power output is increased in a compatible manner. Typically boost pressure is increased to around 30 to 35 psi before the waste gate opens. More than 35 psi is hard on the OEM turbocharger and getting into head gasket blowing territory. I realize this is off topic but I would be really interested in the story of how you installed a Fuller 8406 in your truck. Would make for a very interesting separate thread. :thumbup2:

Ok,that answers my question,was wanting to know IF i had to by a BOX to fool the ECM. I did find an EDGE EZ that if i can buy it right i'll go that route. But my truck is 2WD and it's hard enough keeping traction in snow/ice when pulling now. Mileage/Reliability are my to top priorities.I hav'nt been watching prices on some of these BOXES because a one time they were priced more than they were worth to me and did'nt feel i needed the extra power. Thanks!:thumbup2: As for the Fuller,I took pics but i think they are on a hard drive from my laptop that crashed, i need to take it in an get them recovered. If you do a Google search for(NV5600 Conversion) their guy that posted pics and part list that i pretty much followed,just made my brakets a little different. His was a 4WD but at the time he had'nt got the transfer case hooked to it(he might have by now).:smart:
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Just so you are aware of the correct terminology and differences.........a "boost fooler" does just that and nothing else. If you are satisfied with the extra power of the RV 275 injector ONLY and don't wish to add anything else, this is what you might consider: https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-3853-bd-electronic-boost-fooler-985-02-59l-dodge-cummins-1515931-1515932-1515933.aspx I keep a spare boost fooler in my glove box like the one linked to above just as a backup in the event something may go wrong with the Edge EZ. It does nothing but boost fool the ECM. Otherwise, if the Edge or other box is removed, the potential exists to set off the check engine light with an over-boost code. The Edge EZ along with MANY other boxes, tuners, etc. not only provide a boost fooling function but in the case of the Edge EZ a time advance function which adds as much as 65 hp. There is 3 settings you can select. Other boxes, tuners, etc. not only do the above but also alter fueling in addition to boost fooling, and timing. https://www.dieselpowerproducts.com/p-4073-edge-ez-985-02-59l-24v-dodge-cummins-30200-30201.aspx The Edge EZ in my opinion is a very simple but very complementary addition to a set of larger injectors, provided you have the air intake capacity and adequate exhaust.

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