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DieselD24

DTC Troubleshooting Once Again...

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So, I have repaired the front axle ABS sensor/hub/bearing or whatever you wanna call it, and have yet another pending DTC. P0126 -- not one I'm pleaseantly happy to see. I have little money to make it into next week, due to the repair I just made. Why do bad things happen to good people? :mad: Is there any way to keep the Injection pump from failing completely. I just need it to last me long enough so I can save up the funds to purchase a new one, seeing as how they aren't cheap. Anyone got an extra pump laying around? :lol:

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It depends what the cause of the failure is. According to Blue Chip Diesel who builds pumps, the electronics can wear out by overheating. I found he discussion on their site useful. http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/vp44diagnostichelp.html Blue Chip has experiemted with cooling the VP44 & not had any luck... though it seems that fuel going through the pump cools it & more fuel flow being returned to the tank cools the VP pump. This is why so many are going to aftermarket higher volume lift pumps. Be sure you have fuel pressure. I have been running TCW3 (outboard oil) and am convinced that is saved my VP44 when my fuel pump lost power & stopped. Pray Best Wishes, Russ

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That page is very helpful. That guy knows his injection pumps! According to the page, it says I won't need to replace the injection pump immediately as he is "absolutely positively sure it will not cause any driveablility issues". I hope it last me long enough to save up the funds and replace it before it completely fails. I don't trust it, as there is already an issue with it and it can only get worse with time. Time to do some window shoppin' in the mean time... Just curious, how hard it is to swap out the injection pump? Has anyone on here done it before? Thanks, Russ!

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http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/vp44-replace/vp44-replace.htm Here is a write up for replacement. Like Flagman says, you need to find out what caused it. What kind of fuel pressure do you have? How good is your lift pump operating? http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/cummins/2ndgen24v/lift-pump-diag/lift-pump-diag.htm Your looking at $1000 for the pump and if you don't have a good lift pump then upto $500 for that, depending on which one you get.

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the is not hard to replace. read the instructions and take your time. i did mine in about 4.5 hours withan extra set of hands. it is not that difficult. you definately need to find out what is causing the problem. more than likely it is fuel pressure or lack there of i should say.

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the is not hard to replace. read the instructions and take your time. i did mine in about 4.5 hours withan extra set of hands. it is not that difficult. you definately need to find out what is causing the problem. more than likely it is fuel pressure or lack there of i should say.

I need to clear the codes from the repair I made first. I'm hoping it won't pop up again after learing the codes but if it does, I'm guessing it's gonna be due to lack of pressure/lubrication. I never did add 2 cycle or 2 stroke -- whatever it's called to the fuel. I knew I would regret it later on down the road. :duh:

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The only this about that article I don't agree with...

Most importantly, be sure that you have at least 5 PSI Lift Pump pressure UNDER LOAD at all times, to be sure it isn’t preventing full power from being attained, and or causing any harm to the Injection Pump Diaphragm.

I still recommend that you hold to the factory values... Strange part is that Bosch will not warranty a pump with diaphragm damage.

Posted Image

And even BC admits...

http://www.bluechipdiesel.com/fassinfo.html

If you pump fuel through the same size line at 15 PSI, more fuel should flow and therefore offer more cooling, right??? So, let’s try using 15 PSI or so, all the time for a test to see if repeat failures are diminished or eliminated.

This is the only problem I got with BC articles is the fact he's touted the 5 PSI for racing reasons that even excepted that as a base minimum values. Pump failures sored... :duh:

Blue Chip Diesel Performance proved in 1999 that 5 PSI, under load, made all the horsepower the VP44 pump could make, even with stock fuel lines, fittings and supply pump.

But if you read carefully all of BC testing work is for the performance market. There is no solid testing in longevity of the VP44. So all I can say is becareful how you read his articles. Like the statement above there is nothing stated on that page of how long the VP44 would last...

Like to agree with his statement above...

If you pump fuel through the same size line at 15 PSI, more fuel should flow and therefore offer more cooling, right??? So, let’s try using 15 PSI or so, all the time for a test to see if repeat failures are diminished or eliminated.

This will keep the overflow OPEN this WILL increase fuel flow through the VP44 and maximize the cooling a lubing effects of the fuel. Since the overflow valve opens at 14 PSI I've been using this a "Suggested Low Pressure". The thing is we are looking to get the most life from our VP44 not HP/TQ.

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i bought my vp from blue chip. chip was very good to deal with and will take time to talk to you if you need him. i have to agree with mike on the fuel pressure. i bought BC s low pressure warning light and it comes on at 5 psi. form all ihave read here and many other places that is to low and the damage is already being done at that pressure. lubricity is important but pressure is a must. follow what you read here and you will not be unhappy.

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Thank you for confirming that... :thumb1:

with such good teachers it is easy to do. after all do you remember who told me to cut my wires when i had ecm problems?:nono: it was not you.

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i bought my vp from blue chip. chip was very good to deal with and will take time to talk to you if you need him. i have to agree with mike on the fuel pressure. i bought BC s low pressure warning light and it comes on at 5 psi. form all ihave read here and many other places that is to low and the damage is already being done at that pressure. lubricity is important but pressure is a must. follow what you read here and you will not be unhappy.

How long have you had yours dripley?

with such good teachers it is easy to do. after all do you remember who told me to cut my wires when i had ecm problems?:nono: it was not you.

Wow, someone told you to cut ECM wires... That's not even the last thing you wanna do.

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i have had my pump for one year and it works just fine. doesnot seem to run any better than the other 2. it did seem to run quieter, that could of been the 2 stroke because i started runnin it when i changed the pump the first went out under warranty the second never did go completely out, but it was acting funny and i decided to replace it before it left me stranded. the 2nd one actually survived a lift pump failure and crappy fuel pressure from the in tank pump dodge installed for me. at the time i did not know how critical fuel pressure was. i added a booster pump to get the pressure up. it is just barely satifactory now. i have an ADII 165 sitting at home waiting on me. it is more than i need,but i figured if i did any thing else fuel is not going to be a problem again.the BC pump is working fine, he replaces the computer with all the latest software along with the internals, and hopefully it will last a long time. i dont really know how much better it is than some of the other ones out there. it is pretty pricey also. some of the other guys are getting good service out of pumps in the $1000 range.Chip does know the vp44. just dont talk to him about the wires.

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I recently installed a newly reman MWFI pump and it threw a 0216. MWFI had said that I had gas in the fuel & that was the reason for the initial failure. So...after draining the tank & refilling I get the 0216. I cleared it and got it again. I loaded the fuel with 2-stroke ~ 2 oz per gal, cleared codes and they haven't come back. Perhaps the new pump with dry fuel was a little sticky. I haven't had a pump apart so haven't seen what the mechanics are. I know the new pump threw mechanical injection timing code. I know I put extra lube in. I know (at least to last time I scanned) that the 0216 hasn't come back.The OP said he hasn't run any lube and is low on cash. I suggest 2 qts of 2-stroke (double the normal dosage) in the 1st tank then running 1 oz/gallon of fuel after that. Clear codes & see what you have. Clear them again if necessary & retest. You only have the price of the 2-stroke to lose.After reading the lubricity study, I believe that lube is necessary and that most of the easily available additives don't help in this VP application ie PS, Howse etal. (read the study & form your own conclusions.)

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Anyone got an extra pump laying around? :lol:

I *think* you can run the vp44 some time without too much issue ..... As long as you have line pressure .... It will just retard the timing meaning lower mpg and eventually harder starting ...... You might get lucky with a vp44 of a wrecked truck ... Anywhere from 400-800 .... Depends what info you can get on truck history See if mike or someone says different .... But run some two stroke in it .. And keep an eye on it whilst you save funds Sorry man sucks

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I wouldn't want to pay much for an unknown used pump. Most people that don't frequent forums don't install gauges or aftermarket fuel systems. $400 with 4 hrs labor (mine or mechanic's) would be high for what amounts to a crap shoot. Here everyone refers to BlueChip or MWFI but many reman pumps on the market are from overseas & are low quality. Also, I'd NEVER go A1-cardone for this. MWFI can be had delivered for < $1,000.

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I wouldn't want to pay much for an unknown used pump. Most people that don't frequent forums don't install gauges or aftermarket fuel systems. $400 with 4 hrs labor (mine or mechanic's) would be high for what amounts to a crap shoot. Here everyone refers to BlueChip or MWFI but many reman pumps on the market are from overseas & are low quality. Also, I'd NEVER go A1-cardone for this. MWFI can be had delivered for < $1,000.

Sure - but people need options sometimes - especially if they have other priorities. If mike was selling his after a wreck for $400 with less than 20k miles on it I would consider it if I didn't have the extra $500+ and snow plowing season was 4 weeks away. :thumb1: There are plenty of guys on CF/here and other forums that if you get to know them you can work out a good deal and get some parts if thats what you require. For a VP44 I think most of us would wait and drive the bad one until with over 10PSI + until we could get a new one - even just for longevity ......... remember MOST places wont warranty a new vp44 anyways - maybe 6 mths - 1 year ...... so really just depends on DieselD's situation :)

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remember MOST places wont warranty a new vp44 anyways - maybe 6 mths - 1 year ......

Here shops will warranty parts and labor if they have a warranty from the manufacturer. I had a shop install some drivetrain seals that are leaking again. They are going to do the work again at no cost. That 's better than me having to do it even if the seals are free.

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I *think* you can run the vp44 some time without too much issue ..... As long as you have line pressure .... It will just retard the timing meaning lower mpg and eventually harder starting ...... You might get lucky with a vp44 of a wrecked truck ... Anywhere from 400-800 .... Depends what info you can get on truck history See if mike or someone says different .... But run some two stroke in it .. And keep an eye on it whilst you save funds Sorry man sucks

That explains why I have such shi**y mileage.

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