Jump to content
  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We can see that your guest and been lurking about. When you register on the Mopar1973Man.Com site you'll be able to interact with all the other members. This is the most friendliest Cummins forum you'll ever join. Take the time right now and  REGISTER  on the Mopar1973Man.Com this will open up many more options and functions on the website. Everyone is very friendly and helpful just ask questions and everyone will help you out the best they can. 

Sign in to follow this  
Rogan

Fuel sender failure?

Recommended Posts

Drove to work yesterday, and saw I had 1/2tank fuel; seems right. Left work, started the truck, DING DING.. Low fuel light; WTF? Needle was below E mark. Rushed to fuel station ($3.899) and filled up... 18 gallons, that's it? Started the truck to only see the same thing. Reseated the connector on the tank to no avail. The needle barely moves from key on to key off. Do the level senders fail in this manner, or do I need to look elsewhere?Thanks, guys!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A lot of times you can pull the gauge out of the tank and repair it. The wiper on the sender looses connection and gives you wrong readings. Once you pull it you can see what you need to do to get it to work. Another thing, lifting the box is about the easiest way to get to it. A long box has eight bolts and a short box has six. Pull all bolts (15mm socket) EXCEPT for the two at the rear. Just loosen them. Remove the three screws holding the filler neck and lift the box to gain access to the tank. BE SURE you block the box so that it is safe to be under it. You don't want it to fall on you!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A lot of times you can pull the gauge out of the tank and repair it. The wiper on the sender looses connection and gives you wrong readings. Once you pull it you can see what you need to do to get it to work. Another thing, lifting the box is about the easiest way to get to it. A long box has eight bolts and a short box has six. Pull all bolts (15mm socket) EXCEPT for the two at the rear. Just loosen them. Remove the three screws holding the filler neck and lift the box to gain access to the tank. BE SURE you block the box so that it is safe to be under it. You don't want it to fall on you!

Have any pics of the part of it to look for? I'm in the same pickle and would like to know what I need to find to fix it when I get it off..never had one apart before :(

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Sorry, but I didn't get any pictures either. Once you get the sender in your hand it really is 'self explanatory' for what you need to do. On one of them (I repaired three so far) all that I need to do was flip the wiper over and it worked again. Take a look at this for a better visual: http://dodgeram.org/tech/repair/fuel_sender/sender.htm

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Tsk tsk guys..

Bed removed, power washed.

Posted Image

Better view of the top of the sender thinger on the tank. That big ring on the outside unscrews.

Posted Image

After you unscrew it, the whole thing comes out. Be careful not to catch the float on something and bend it all up.

Posted Image

Then the actual sender, just a variable resistor or rheostat, you can put your multimeter on it and watch the resistance change as you move the float up and down.

Posted Image

  • Like 1

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm suspicious of my fuel sender since the diesel shop had the tank down... it seems the sender is reading more than I have. It's never been real accurate... It is important to know if the guage is trustworthy. We kind of take fuel guages for granted.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

A lot of times you can pull the gauge out of the tank and repair it. The wiper on the sender looses connection and gives you wrong readings. Once you pull it you can see what you need to do to get it to work. Another thing, lifting the box is about the easiest way to get to it. A long box has eight bolts and a short box has six. Pull all bolts (15mm socket) EXCEPT for the two at the rear. Just loosen them. Remove the three screws holding the filler neck and lift the box to gain access to the tank. BE SURE you block the box so that it is safe to be under it. You don't want it to fall on you!

Tom, are you just suggesting to hinge the bed back on the two loosened rear bolts, similar to a dump bed position, rather than removing the entire bed? Just making sure I was understanding your suggested procedure.. I've went a week or so, now, with an ill gauge, and I've had about all I can stand of it now :banghead: I'd like to try and fix it, before I drop the coin to replace it. I know that when the tank is almost empty, I can have the tank dropped and out in about 10-15 minutes, but right now, mine is quite full, so I'd rather not pull it out.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Pulling the bed is just as easy as dropping the tank, if not easier. Tom's method sounds really good, rather than taking the whole bed off, but it's a piece of cake. Take the 8 bolts out, take the filler neck off, unplug tail lights, good to go.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree, ISX.. the downside is doing it by yourself, in the driveway.. Hinging it back is a more viable method, I'm assuming, if you're flying solo.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

haha! well, I'd say you have a slight advantage, then :)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I'm suspicious of my fuel sender since the diesel shop had the tank down... it seems the sender is reading more than I have. It's never been real accurate... It is important to know if the guage is trustworthy. We kind of take fuel guages for granted.

mine is doing the same thing. i am pretty sure that the basket rotated slightly when i rinstalled it and i just did not notice:doh:. i think the float is probably hitting in the corner of the tank and giving me a false reading. i use my trip odometer as much as my gauge anyway.i am just going to have to get used to it until i drop the tank again.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Drove to work yesterday, and saw I had 1/2tank fuel; seems right. Left work, started the truck, DING DING.. Low fuel light; WTF? Needle was below E mark. Rushed to fuel station ($3.899) and filled up... 18 gallons, that's it? Started the truck to only see the same thing. Reseated the connector on the tank to no avail. The needle barely moves from key on to key off. Do the level senders fail in this manner, or do I need to look elsewhere? Thanks, guys!

Yesterday afternoon - POOF! The thing started working again, on it's own... :shrug:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I agree, ISX.. the downside is doing it by yourself, in the driveway.. Hinging it back is a more viable method, I'm assuming, if you're flying solo.

No chance of it hitting the cab? Pulling the tank is not easy on mine. QCSB. I have to drop a cross memeber and to really prevent the foul language from flying, pull the left rear wheel off for more access. :lmao: I really like the idea of hinging the bed. I have a topper too but a 2x4 under the bed to lift and hinge it back sounds like a little less work for me.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an 01 QCSB 4wd, and I dropped the tank in like 10 minutes, using 2 floor jacks and a 6' long 2x12... Wonder what's so different between the two?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have an 01 QCSB 4wd, and I dropped the tank in like 10 minutes, using 2 floor jacks and a 6' long 2x12... Wonder what's so different between the two?

Maybe space? Is there a cross memeber near the front of the tank? I have to lift the truck up to get it out anyways. Mnie is 2wd

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Speaking of the cross memeber near the front of the tank how important is it? Mine has been out for a week and going to be out for a few more. I broke two bolts getting it out. I still need to drop the tank again to put in my sump and fuel sender.( kinda stinks I did not have this other stuff ready when my brake line went.)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Maybe space? Is there a cross memeber near the front of the tank? I have to lift the truck up to get it out anyways. Mnie is 2wd

Speaking of the cross memeber near the front of the tank how important is it? Mine has been out for a week and going to be out for a few more. I broke two bolts getting it out. I still need to drop the tank again to put in my sump and fuel sender.( kinda stinks I did not have this other stuff ready when my brake line went.)

Mine is either MIA, or never had it.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Sign in to follow this  

×
×
  • Create New...