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Hard Start Cold......


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New Blue Chip VP-44New Mopar ECM with Mopar flashNew Raptor 150 with line kitGlacier Big Line kitNew Fuel FilterISSPRO Fuel Pressure with Ashcorft ss snubber (Mounted on the canister)No Codes (With Reader)Fuel Pressure 18 PSI Idle, 16-17 WOTIn the morning, it takes 45 seconds to over a minute of cranking to fire; once it does (with ALOT of smoke) it immediately settles down to a smooth consistent idle. The longer the truck sits, the longer it takes to crank.I have the clear 3/8" line hooked to it now with zero signs of air leakage. It still exhibits the symptoms above

--- Update to the previous post...

<a href='http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery/image/6205-fuel/'><img src='http://www.nopistons.com/forums/gallery2/gallery/album_36/gallery_2804_36_270308.jpg' alt='fuel' /></a>

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This may help others, what did he tell you to do?

Hello John, To help me make the best diagnosis, please answer the following questions. Did the engine start hard, or this hard before you installed our pump? What color is the smoke on start - up? Is it smokey after starting before you press the accelerator pedal or after? Where is the clear line attached, specifically between what components of the fuel system? Have you tried starting it without the electric lift pump connected electrically, and is it better or worse when you do that? Have you checked the voltage on pin#5 ( blue wire with a red tracer) on the big plug on the injection pump for voltage when cranking? If not, please do so and report the findings. Does the starting time change if the front of the truck is facing up hill or down hill? This needs to be a fairly steep incline, but it is a valuable diagnostiaid. I await your reply, Chip Fishe
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It sounds like a leak in the return side of the fuel system. Baby power is a good way to find a minor leak since there may by only a minimal amount of fuel leaking but allowing air to enter which is causing the fuel line to drain.

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Got back from vacation, had local shop install new injectors (RV 275 Bosch) and they replaced the return line check valve. We will see how t starts in the morning

A bad overflow valve (what you're calling a check valve) will result in hard starts all the time, not specific to hot or cold. Not fully understanding your last post, did you have the injectors replaced after this hard start problem or did it start acting up after installing the injectors? Still sounds like a leak to me. Point that nose downhill will help you determine if it is a leak.
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A bad overflow valve (what you're calling a check valve) will result in hard starts all the time, not specific to hot or cold. Not fully understanding your last post, did you have the injectors replaced after this hard start problem or did it start acting up after installing the injectors? Still sounds like a leak to me. Point that nose downhill will help you determine if it is a leak.

Hard Start Cold started after replacing the VP44. I had the injector change planned; I didn't feel like messing with it.Right now I have all connections covered in baby powder, will check them in the morning.As far as parking the truck uphill or downhill; my property is pretty flat. I will rearrange the spoils pile from my shop build tis weekend to create a parking ramp to test it that way
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so did you fix this?? and have you tested the leaving it parked downhill for awhile?does it do this if you start it shortly after turning off?if it starts better after sitting nose down, and shortly after being turned off you could have a torn connector tube o-ringafter the vp swap it could have happened but then you would think the shop who replaced the injectors would have replaced it and you would be fine nowim assuming the key was the whole problem since you didnt say anything more but maybe someone else may stumble across this with the connector tube issue

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