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DezrtRat

Stalled and Won't Restart

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With the help from others on a different web site, I'm almost convinced that I need a new injector pump. Have a good lift pump with 22 psi pressure. Recently (today) cracked the fuel lines going to injectors 1, 3, & 4 and got a little bit of fuel. The front line had quite a bit of bubbles. Also have a 1688 code stating that the injector pump controller manfunctioned. Only this evening did I replace the fuel filter. Do I need to bleed it? Does it take long for the fuel to flow properly after replacing the filter if I don't. And finally, what's your take on a used injector pump (money's tight right now and elk season's only a month away)? Thanks

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`sounds like you may have air locked it you say you seen lots of bubbles when you cracked some line and it quit after you did a filter change i would just reprime the pump she should catch and fire up again

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I'm quickly losing hope but I plan to try bleeding it...Oh, after I recharge the batteries, which are about done with all the cranking I've been doing. Thanks for the suggestion.Let me add a dumb question. Would it hurt to charge the batteries without disconnecting the battery cables? Would like to charge both at the same time.

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it shouldnt. i have done mine like that a few times. never disconnected them to charge. i would be interested to know if i have been screwing up. it has never caused me any problems that i know of.

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Maybe we will hear the definitive answer from the great one in the clouds... of Idaho that is.For what it's worth thats the way I have always done it too. Batteries attached, slow charge preferred. I have been told that once batteries have discharged and a vehicle is jump started and the batteries are recharged by the vehicle only, that they never fully recover to total capacity without a boost from a battery charger. They appear to be at total charge but reserve amperage is depleated. I learned this from a automotive electronics Tech. instructor at the local College.

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More good information. Once vehicles started coming out with computer controls (80's) I just assumed that they needed to be disconnected to charge. I don't remember anyone telling me that, just assumed.

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Maybe we will hear the definitive answer from the great one in the clouds... of Idaho that is. For what it's worth thats the way I have always done it too. Batteries attached, slow charge preferred. I have been told that once batteries have discharged and a vehicle is jump started and the batteries are recharged by the vehicle only, that they never fully recover to total capacity without a boost from a battery charger. They appear to be at total charge but reserve amperage is depleated. I learned this from a automotive electronics Tech. instructor at the local College.

i learned from leaving my keys in the switch with it on all night. drained them so bad the dinger would wven work. they have not been right since. new ones are in my near future. :pray: oh great one in the potatoes areyou there:pray:

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Sorry I was gone for a few days... :duh:

With the help from others on a different web site, I'm almost convinced that I need a new injector pump. Have a good lift pump with 22 psi pressure. Recently (today) cracked the fuel lines going to injectors 1, 3, & 4 and got a little bit of fuel. The front line had quite a bit of bubbles. Also have a 1688 code stating that the injector pump controller manfunctioned. Only this evening did I replace the fuel filter. Do I need to bleed it? Does it take long for the fuel to flow properly after replacing the filter if I don't. And finally, what's your take on a used injector pump (money's tight right now and elk season's only a month away)? Thanks

Ok as for the P1688 error code it basically states the electronics on the VP44 have failed completely. The VP44 is brain dead and no longer listening to the ECM... So VP44 replace is required... My only question is what is your fuel pressure like? :shrug:

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OK, let me give you as many facts as I can. I'm accepting the fact that I probably need an injector pump but want to be sure. Here goes.Opening the drain valve to the fuel/water separator and running the lift pump, I'm getting 22 psi on Edge monitor and a 1/2" stream of fuel (replaced fuel filter). However, when I opened the banjo fitting on the injector pump I got fuel but it doesn't appear to be as much fuel. I realize that the fuel isn't in a stream because the path it has to take from the fitting to the ground (yes, I'm using a drip pan). Does this sound about right?If that's right I probably need a new injector pump since the flow from the #1 injector is weak. So, do you have a source and an approximate price for a rebuilt pump you'd recommend? Trying to figure out how much cash I need to get together. Been a fun two weeks. Not only did my truck die, but my wife's Mazda Tribute's air-conditioner fragged out.Any advice or recommendations are welcome

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Yo have to relize that the VP44 has to create 4,500 PSI at least to even fire the injector. So if the fuel is just dribbling out of the fittings then most likely the VP44 injection pump is done. 2 Things I try to check... 1. Fuel Presure. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=49:fuel-pressure-specification-for-bosch-vp44-injection-pumps&catid=25&Itemid=107 2. Error codes. http://articles.mopar1973man.com/index.php?option=com_content&view=article&id=89:obdii-on-board-diagnostics-diagnostic-error-codes&catid=26&Itemid=107 So if either one fails typically the VP44 is most likely failed... But remember just because you got 19-21 PSI at idle doesn't nmean your fuel system is perfect like one owner found out the hard way watching this video ans seeing 19 PSI and going all the way to 0 PSI on a WOT stand was a shocker...

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=NB8o24rw1eU

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as i remember DR you told me you had 1688 and 1689 plus a couple more concening the grid heaters. those 2 dont make it look good.

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Sorry I was gone for a few days... :duh: Ok as for the P1688 error code it basically states the electronics on the VP44 have failed completely. The VP44 is brain dead and no longer listening to the ECM... So VP44 replace is required... My only question is what is your fuel pressure like? :shrug:

as i remember DR you told me you had 1688 and 1689 plus a couple more concening the grid heaters. those 2 dont make it look good.

Yeah I mention that before...:duh: P1688 is the one keeping it from firing...

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I've made it to the acceptance stage. What do you guys know about Thoroughbred Diesel, if anything? They're offerring a rebuilt and tested pump with 2 year warranty for a little under $1k. Or do you have any other sources? I getting ready to have two of my three vehicles in the shop for maintenance so, I'm trying to estimate how much $$$ I'll need.

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i have a blue chip in mine. they are pricey though. i works fine, but so did the other two when they were working. longevity is yet to be detirmined. DAP is another source in the vendors section. i would think price, warrnty, and do they back up the warranty pretty important. you can istall it yourself and save some cash. it is not that difficult.

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So, now you've got me wondering. What is the life expectancy of an injector pump if it's not "hot rodded?"I am fortunate to have a friend who (at one point in his life) was a certified educated diesel mechanic and he's willing to do the install with my help (I almost said he would help me).:lmao:

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I'm probably about to screw myself over but I have 150k on my VP right now. As for thoroughbred diesel, I think there customer service is outstanding. Some of their mechs don't know quite as much as they think they know but will bend over backwards to help you.

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that all depends on how you treat it. keep good fuel pressure to it. put it on a 2 cycle oil diet,1 oz per gallon. hopefully it will last a long time. it is mechanical and electronic so one never knows the exact longevity of something like this. it might last 500k, or 100k. only time will tell.

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that all depends on how you treat it. keep good fuel pressure to it. put it on a 2 cycle oil diet,1 oz per gallon. hopefully it will last a long time. it is mechanical and electronic so one never knows the exact longevity of something like this. it might last 500k, or 100k. only time will tell.

I guess you're right. I figure the guy who owned my truck before me beat it up pretty bad; however, if the code is correct it might just be the electronic portion of the pump and no one can predict the life of an electrical component. Been working on military jets for 30 years and have seen both extremes.

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I know this get said over and over, but, "Thank you for your service to this Great Country"

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You are welcome but I haven't been on active duty (Marine Corps) for 22 years. I have, however, been a contractor for the Marine corps ever since. The kids today impress me beyond imagination with their dedication and sacrifice. I have to step back once in a while to notice since I work with them every day. Always keep them in your prayers.

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