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01 24v horrible MPG and no coolant temp?


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hey guys n moparman, first post here i just got an email from the site suggesting my return but ive yet to post anyways ill start off with a bang..

01 24v dodge excab 4x4 stock new vp n raptor, 86mph 2250 rpms i think forget what its governd to also have a 12v anywho pedal to the floorboard 13 psi going to the pump. idle i think 14 -17 im pretty sure. im trying to do this from memory i havent driven the truck in a week or so.

so i believe it gets good FP? the gauge is taped into the shrader valve on the fuel intake banjo bolt and i recently changed the fuel filter and saw no change in numbers... regardless the truck gets 11-12 mpg around town. litterly $100 or about 22 gallons of diesel goes 250 or less miles...horrible i have 17* of timing in my 97 12v n it gets better mpg.

on the bright side...winters rolling around and my coolant temp gauge is pegged on 140 and that truck doesnt get warm for sh*t...is it as simple as a stuck thermostat? im a 12v guy i no nothing about vp44,obd2... all i no is the map sensor also went in this truck and it was close to $500 no one could get it but the dealer so i dont want to have to buy anymore sensors and such...i would like to sell this truck, but of course i want to get the kinks out. thats why im here pickin you guys brains, see what we come up with. Also i dont know if this forum offers a for sale section or not i havent looked around much but i got a decent deal on this truck i believe so if anyones interested there might be another good deal to happen?! thanks all.

ps- i did not proof read.

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my neighbor has a 24v 01' he had a desert t-stat in his and it would never get warm. Gauge would get to ~130F.I told him to replace it with a 180F t-stat, and i did this for him, his truck can heat up the cab damn quick and he actually gained about 3mpg on average.I would drive the truck to operating temp, feel the hoses and see how hot they are. put a thermometer against the hose and see what it reads. If it actually is 130~F then check or replace the t-stat, also ensure coolant is serviceable.

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Little confused here... 01 24V and a 12V of what year??? :banghead:As for the 24V I would dump a hot 190*F thermostat in it and change the coolant at the same time. 24V like the engine to be nice and hot. Even in the dead of winter I still see 195-197*F with -25*F weather using winter fronts.Any error codes?

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the 12v is a 97 but that runs fine the only problems i have is with the 24v... the bad fuel milage and no coolant temp...i just mentioned the 12v when giving you guys the specs in case any of them seemed of i might have confused them with my 12v ya no? ill go get a thermostat tomm and see what happens... is there anything i should no about the swap any tips or tricks to changing the stat?

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Definately change the thermostat to the stock 190*. The electronics are built around that spec. A cold engine will run in the rich warm up mode & get crappy mpgs. Several of us here are using winter fronts to block the grill (not the radiator, intercooler, oil cooler) to keep the warm air under the hood in winter. Check your air cleaner, clean, undamaged. A good paper filter will do. Are the brakes dragging? If the truck has sat around... It happened to me, dealer didn't find anything, I drove it for a year until a different mechanic found it. (It drove fine & I even towed heavy... truck has plenty of power so I only noticed the mpg).

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well i thought the same thing and i really took my time. half hour gently torquing them down and the oddball one that is to the back and right just wouldnt tighten past a point and eventually it stretched and popped but didnt fully seperate. i was able to unscrew it with my fingers and it fell apart in my hand. needless to say we went got 4 new ones same hardness and i torqued the opposing ones first to 18ft lb, then the oddball one i got to 16ft lb then stopped as i think it actually started to stretch too. but he has no leaks which is good.when torquing them incrementally increase the ft lb up to 18. try to balance it best as possible. luckily i didnt strip the holes in the block but i think they made these guys much weaker than the block just for this reason. needless to say i was quite nervouse the whole time. 18ft lb is alot on small boltsi did find the reason for the failure though, where the bolt stretched and failed, it was slightly corroded and crystalized the metal a bit. no tensile integrity left and it gave up on me. i would say its a safe bet to replace all 3 of them each time a t-stat is replaced. its a $2 investment!

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When I got mine from the cummins shop they asked me which one I wanted the 180 or 195. I got the 195 and it is in a cummins box. I didnt ask about the 180. As far as hotter, not sure,but have heard people speak of running 210. Mine never gets to 205 even pulling my 32' flat bed. Coures I have not pulled it loaded yet, my truck weight is 11k as it is. One day I will load my 4030 John Deere and take a pic. I should have got a pic of it loaded with the D4C(34k).:lmao: I think that's what gave my last motor the little hick up it had:lmao2:

What thermostat temps can you get ? I gave 5 deg lower than stock can you go higher than stock ?

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Like when Dieselpower mag did the 30 MPG truck they had cover the grill and ran the temps all the way up to 205-208*F and improve effiecncy of the engine. Cold thermostat is bad new. The oil temp never comes up, oil doesn't flow like it should, and increase drag on the engine...

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i am unsure. i do know my neighbor had a cold t-stat, it would fully open around 130ish. barely past the far left mark on the temp gauge

I would guess there was something wrong with it. Regardless of the thermostat installed Cummins lists 160° as the min operating temp. AFIK there are 180, 190, and 200° OEM stats available (Assuming that 98-12 thermostats are interchangeable). Remember those are cracking temps, full open temps are 15-20° higher and steady non-towing temps are 3-5° higher once fully warmed up.
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I would guess there was something wrong with it. Regardless of the thermostat installed Cummins lists 160° as the min operating temp. AFIK there are 180, 190, and 200° OEM stats available (Assuming that 98-12 thermostats are interchangeable). Remember those are cracking temps, full open temps are 15-20° higher and steady non-towing temps are 3-5° higher once fully warmed up.

the guy he bought the truck from lived in arizona and told my neighbor he had the t-stat replaced with one that would open up full around 130. it worked perfectly fine, just not for the cold weather up here in colorado.
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the guy he bought the truck from lived in arizona and told my neighbor he had the t-stat replaced with one that would open up full around 130. it worked perfectly fine, just not for the cold weather up here in colorado.

Wow, if that's true then I don't know what to say! That's 30° below min operating temp!
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