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Who has done this on 24v ? I understand torque sequence and specs ... Just curious onAny issues with back studs and cowel etc ?Do you need to tap the existing hole ? If so details ? Ive heard yes and no. Any other tips outside of sequence or specs ... Thx

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I ran a tap just to make sure the hole was clean. Took a shop vac with a step down hose and sucked out the hole after words. I used a rubber hose that fit IN the hole just to be clear. My head was off so i didnt have to use a extention.

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I ran a tap just to make sure the hole was clean. Took a shop vac with a step down hose and sucked out the hole after words. I used a rubber hose that fit IN the hole just to be clear. My head was off so i didnt have to use a extention.

thx dually So you didnt tap any new threads - just used to clean existing ...... remeber size of tap you used in length ? Any problems with back studs/bolts with room ? :thumbup2:
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I put the ARP 2000's (425's) in my 05. The head has the same bolt pattern, and the stud kit is the same.

I did the one at a time method and didn't bottom tap the holes. The studs do go deeper than the OEM bolts, but all of mine are in the same depth and I would have only gone another turn on them anyhow and didn't think it was necessary.

There are holes in the cowl so there is plenty of room.

If my head had been off I probably would have bottom tapped, but don't regret not doing it.

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ive heard of the valve cover molding ridges inside on the "ceiling" hitting the taller heads of the studs and some people grind a few spots down on the cover. 12v peeps do this too

gotchya - was hoping wouldnt have to do too much to hit - especially on sealing lip .......:thumbup2:
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There is one other company people use, but the name eludes me.

ARP A1 Haisley Couldnt tell the difference reading online - a lot of pullers seem to like A1 but more people have ARP - so just went with ARP - also clearance issue with A1 also. NOt sure if same as ARP or not or different issue.

The valve cover clearance is with the taller nut and wasn't hard to clearance for.. just be sure to clean all the metal shavings off before putting it back on the motor.

So 1 other thing .... instructions talk about if placing into water jacket - then use a thread sealer :shrug: I haven't heard about this before - most people just 1 at a time straight in without even bottom tapping it ......
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ARP

A1

Haisley

Couldnt tell the difference reading online - a lot of pullers seem to like A1 but more people have ARP - so just went with ARP - also clearance issue with A1 also. NOt sure if same as ARP or not or different issue.

A1 is who I couldn't remember.. Well was thinking A11. They are supposed to be as strong as the 625's but cheaper. I don't need that strong and the 2000's were cheaper still.

So 1 other thing ....

instructions talk about if placing into water jacket - then use a thread sealer :shrug:

I haven't heard about this before - most people just 1 at a time straight in without even bottom tapping it ......

I think that's a generic statement and doesn't apply to the ISB.

--- Update to the previous post...

One other thing, use PLENTY of the ARB lube. I have a spare packet if you want it PM me your addy.
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thx dually So you didnt tap any new threads - just used to clean existing ...... remeber size of tap you used in length ? Any problems with back studs/bolts with room ? :thumbup2:

3 inch tap, no problem with back studs. Just the front 2 i shaved the valve cover. Dont do what i did. I left the valve cover gasket off when i clearanced my valve cover:doh:
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Here is a regular tap, the end is tapered so that the threads are easily cut and it remains straight. These are very easy to get started in a hole that has been drilled or a hole that has messed up threads. Problem is, you don't have full cut threads on the tapered part, so your bolt will get tight where the tap started to taper. This means if you have an inch bolt and the tapered part of the tap is 1/4" long, then you better drill it 1 3/8" deep (so the tap has some room) and tap it at least 1 1/4" so the full threads make it to 1" deep.

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A bottom tap allows you to get the maximum amount of threads without having to drill way down. The same bolt would then need only maybe a 1 1/8" deep hole and you would be able to get 1" of full threads in there. You do this for situations where you can't really drill any farther down because you might drill into something or drill into a coolant passage, who knows. They should not be used to start threads because going from a hole to an instant full thread doesn't work very well, they are really hard to get started straight and the only way I can ever get it straight is with a lathe, so start it with a tapered tap and finish it with a bottom tap. Basically if they don't have a few threads to get them started, they suck.

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