Jump to content

Archived

This topic is now archived and is closed to further replies.

RJC2

Boost gauge install question

Recommended Posts

I am installing a set of gauges (EGT, Boost, Transmission Temp) and am not real sure where to hook to boost gauge in to the engine. Pictures or a video would be helpful if there are any available.I am getting ready to drill and tap the exhaust manifold for the EGT gauge tomorrow, so if anyone has a picture of where you drilled your hole in the manifold that would be great too.Thanks...

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

That is just what I needed. It helps me to get a visual of what I am going to do. I have the turbo off right now so the job will be much easier.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Here is info for the EGT gauge http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/3792-thermocouple-install There is a 1/8"NPT plug on the intake manifold that you take out and put your boost line in there. Here is a pic http://mopar.mopar1973man.com/personal/2002/gauges/boost-gauge-install.jpg You can see it is right behind the fuel filter.

I ran my boost gauge line to the intake manifold plug as shown in the picture but was getting terrible gauge bouce at 15 psi or more. I moved upstream a ways to the to the aluminum crossover intake tube, tapped and drilled it, now no gauge bounce. I'm even thinking of relocating the map sensor up stream, the pulses generated from pistons/valves can't be good for it and at around 100$ + not cheap to replace. Another issue is it giving a power enhancer box some boucing input numbers can't help, perhaps stable boost numbers may help with surge issues?. Can anyone think of any downside to relocating the Map sensor?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

my banks system gets its boost reading from the map sensor. it is always a good smooth reading from 0 to 34 and does not show any pulsating. i am not saying there is no pulsating going on in there, because i really dont know what is going on in there. my knowledge is limited. just my :2cents:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I ran my boost gauge line to the intake manifold plug as shown in the picture but was getting terrible gauge bouce at 15 psi or more. I moved upstream a ways to the to the aluminum crossover intake tube, tapped and drilled it, now no gauge bounce. I'm even thinking of relocating the map sensor up stream, the pulses generated from pistons/valves can't be good for it and at around 100$ + not cheap to replace. Another issue is it giving a power enhancer box some boucing input numbers can't help, perhaps stable boost numbers may help with surge issues?. Can anyone think of any downside to relocating the Map sensor?

You might want to check you valve lash... Something is wrong here even might is rock solid... This is my fuel pressure video but you'll clearly see the boost gauge on top. No comments about sucking a air bubble. I was low on fuel when I did the video. :duh:

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=grl72Up-8T0

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Thanks Mike and Dripley, I see by your video how solid your boost gauge is. I have checked the valve lash in the past year and it was good. Both my addrenaline and (lower end) Autometer gauge jump around by as much as 5psi up at 25psi.. To think of it my Autometer guage is 0-35, perhaps the tube is a little on the weaker side and less tolerate to vibrations than say a 0 to 60 guage, hmm head scratcher.:)

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i heard putting the EGT probe on the rear half of the manifold to read temps that include cyl #6 as it runs the hottest due to the cooling being towards the front. This way all the pistons will theoretically be cooler than #6 which will be the hottest (if all cylinders are balanced fuel delivery wise)This is how i did my EGT probe.pic below is a good example

post-11358-138698181478_thumb.jpg

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

i heard putting the EGT probe on the rear half of the manifold to read temps that include cyl #6 as it runs the hottest due to the cooling being towards the front. This way all the pistons will theoretically be cooler than #6 which will be the hottest (if all cylinders are balanced fuel delivery wise) This is how i did my EGT probe. pic below is a good example

I have heard of this as well but I don't see any difference with my truck as I have pyro in each the front and rear manifold, a autometer in the front and my Adrenaline in the rear.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I have heard of this as well but I don't see any difference with my truck as I have pyro in each the front and rear manifold, a autometer in the front and my Adrenaline in the rear.

ahh tnx, i was curious as well if there was a difference.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites



×