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I asked this on a few other boards, but figured I would ask here also. I bought my Cummins about a month ago, It drove perfect. The motor is stock, and I had thought the transmission had been rebuilt at some point due to how nice it shifted and how much cleaner the transmission was comapaired to everything else under the truck. Not long after I got the truck, I desided to check the fuel pressure. I bought a cheap-o oil guage from the parts house and used one of the test ports on top of the fuel filter housing. Well My lift pump is only putting out 10psi at idle, and Zero at WOT. So I figured i would take it over to my father house to park it. (more space) Its a 5 mile trip over from my house, and on the way over the torque converter would not lock up. The transmission shifted like normal,just not converter lock up. I have not drivin it since then. I am trying to keep any further damage from my VP$$.I reason tell you all that to ask this.. Is there anything I could have bumped, or knocked loose wile I was messing with the fuel filterhousing? Before this, it shifted perfect. It would lock in at 42mph and not budge unless I slowed down, or got on the trottle heavy. I checked the soliniod and it was 30.5 ohms. On the other boards I am beening told my converter/ transmission is shot. I leave for Basic training in january so I dont plan to do anything to my truck till I get back in june. Any Ideas or things to try would be awsome. If in fact my converter is shot, thats cool too. I just dont want to jump the gun. Thank guys

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To check line pressure I assume I will need some sort of guage. Can you tell me a good place to get a cheap one? Maybe a thread on checking line pressure?

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Wait, what? When he says "line pressure", is he talking about fuel pressure, or auto transmission line pressure? I have an oil pressure guage run to the test port on the top of the fuel filter. I was under the impression he was talking about transmission line pressure??? Can I use an oil pressure guage to read line pressure in an auto tranny? :shrug:Edit: Ooops. you said oil filled gauge, I read oil presasure. Sorry

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Wait, what? When he says "line pressure", is he talking about fuel pressure, or auto transmission line pressure? I have an oil pressure guage run to the test port on the top of the fuel filter. I was under the impression he was talking about transmission line pressure??? Can I use an oil pressure guage to read line pressure in an auto tranny? :shrug: Edit: Ooops. you said oil filled gauge, I read oil presasure. Sorry

yes transmission line pressure, but you need a 0-200psi gauge i am sure. how many miles are on your truck? and did you check the grounds, maybe try a lock up switch just in case to see.

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I have not drivin it in a few weeks. The lift pump is bad and I am going to wait till after I get back from basic to buy one. This truck is more of a play toy, so I dont need it running before then. Truck has 222k on it.

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ok, Im back from training and have fun new issues I would like a second opinion on. I got back less than a week ago, I started up my dodge and went to pull forward. It hesitated almost like it was in neutral, but after a second it locked into gear and pulled away fine. Just for kicks I drove it up the road. It shifted into 2nd right on time, but was stuck there. I was not beating on it, in fact I was driving it easy. I had not yet installed my new AD165. It hung in 2nd till I went WOT then acted like it went into neutral just before hitting 3rd. 3rd was all it would do. I turn around and headed back to the house. Same thing on the way back git 2nd perfect, but wouldnt go into 3rd. I parked the truck and went to work on the AirDog. the truck sat for less than 12 hours. The next morning I started the truck up and went to pull forward. It didnt move, almost like it was in neutral. I could rev the truck up and it would slowly start to move then it would lock into gear and pull fine. as soon as I let off though it would slip back into neutral. If i shut the truck off and start it right back up, and drop it into gear it will pull forward, but if I stop, well... it stops. Fluid is full with a dark pink/red color with a hint of brown. Doesnt smell burnt at all. I called a transmission company to see what they thought and before I could tell them everything, they said 4k for a rebuilt unit that would hold 750hp. No use in messing with mine, it needed a rebuild. I understand that something is wrong, for sure there is, but I just have a hard time believing that my transmission would just go bad sitting for 5 months. Any help trouble shooting would be great. If a rebuild is what it needs, I would like to be 100% sure myself 1st. I am new to all this, and wile I have been reading, some of this is doesnt make sense to me. :cry::spend:

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I would like to be 100% sure myself 1st. I am new to all this, and wile I have been reading, some of this is doesnt make sense to me. :cry:

Some thoughts 1) Slighlty overfill tranny fluid to ensure you have enough (it wont shift it too low) 2) Any clutch material in pan - any hardparts 3) Get a aftermarket VB and install ...... your going to need one anyway and you can do it in your driveway - it might do little but extend your tranny life - but since your just paying for the cost of something you will need anyway it doesnt hurt. 4) Issue only in D or R also ? 5) How about manually shifting gears ? 1,2 etc thx

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Some thoughts

1) Slighlty overfill tranny fluid to ensure you have enough (it wont shift it too low)

I noticed it is above the full mark already. Could it being over full hurt/kill the transmission?

2) Any clutch material in pan - any hardparts

I had thought of that, but have not had a chance to drop the pan yet.

3) Get a aftermarket VB and install ...... your going to need one anyway and you can do it in your driveway - it might do little but extend your tranny life - but since your just paying for the cost of something you will need anyway it doesnt hurt.

IF the transmission is bad would trash from the clutches, or where ever the problem is jam up the VB?

4) Issue only in D or R also ?

Every gear has the same issues. Reverse tends to work "better" but not much. If I shut the truck off, then start it back up and drop it into a gear it will normally pull that way, but if I stop, it stops working.

5) How about manually shifting gears ? 1,2 etc

Same in every gear.

thx

I am ordering a pressure gauge so I can test the transmission. I went to buy it today, but sears didnt have one. I tested the TCC solenoid before I left and it check out good. I hooked up a TCC switch when I got back and it didnt work. So Im guessing there is something inside the transmission that is a miss. :ahhh:

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I am ordering a pressure gauge so I can test the transmission. I went to buy it today, but sears didnt have one. I tested the TCC solenoid before I left and it check out good. I hooked up a TCC switch when I got back and it didnt work. So Im guessing there is something inside the transmission that is a miss. :ahhh:

Drop the pan - look for hard parts, look for for clutch material, upload pic Its a 30 min job :)

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Before you scroll down and look over the pictures, I want to say I am pretty sure my transmission is toast. As soon as I broke the seal on the transmission pan, the smell that rolled out and hit me told me all i needed to know. In short, LOTS of clutch material, and what looks to be some shinny metal shavings. My question now is, who to turn to for a built transmission?

Goo off the transmission filter that looks to be clogged with this junk.

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Plenty more goo stuck to the magnet inside the pan....

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Random pictures of the VB and other stuff..

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Does anyone know anything about these guys? http://www.goerend.com/dodgedieselparts.php says there transmission will hold 750hp, and comes with a 3yr 100k warranty.

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Before you scroll down and look over the pictures, I want to say I am pretty sure my transmission is toast. As soon as I broke the seal on the transmission pan, the smell that rolled out and hit me told me all i needed to know. In short, LOTS of clutch material, and what looks to be some shinny metal shavings. My question now is, who to turn to for a built transmission?

Goo off the transmission filter that looks to be clogged with this junk.

Posted Image

Plenty more goo stuck to the magnet inside the pan....

Posted Image

Random pictures of the VB and other stuff..

Posted Image

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Does anyone know anything about these guys? http://www.goerend.com/dodgedieselparts.php says there transmission will hold 750hp, and comes with a 3yr 100k warranty.

How long since you last did it ?

3 options

1) Fresh filter and fresh fluid - try and see what happens - might be suprised, might waste $40

2) (1) and install higher pressure VB You need it anyway

3) Go for full rebuild - goerand is expensive but best warranty, performance innvocations/revmax is good for cheaper end - not as great warranty.

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How long since you last did it ?

Did what? I bought the truck in November 2011, The TCC stopped working in December, I left in January for basic, I got back 1 week ago. I have done pretty much Nothing to this truck. The AirDog is the most I have done to it.

3 options

1) Fresh filter and fresh fluid - try and see what happens - might be suprised, might waste $40

I thought about trying this, but there is SOOO much junk in the pan, I couldnt see it it working for long if at all... but I guess I've wasted money on worse right?

2) (1) and install higher pressure VB You need it anyway

I just dont know if throwing a $400 VB into a transmission like that would be smart. Maybe A shift kit?

3) Go for full rebuild - goerand is expensive but best warranty, performance innvocations/revmax is good for cheaper end - not as great warranty.

RevMax is Local to me and I could save money on shipping $500~ and I could install it myself save another $500~, but like you said its cheaper, I worry about quality..:shrug:

Even If fresh fluid, and a VB, or shift kit helped the transmission, what am I going to do about the Torque converter not locking up?

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Even If fresh fluid, and a VB, or shift kit helped the transmission, what am I going to do about the Torque converter not locking up?

As I understand it. TC locks with line pressure and solenoids in your VB. With all that material in your tranny fluid, its condition and especially the filter - who knows what impact to readings for your line pressure and VB. So its a $40 call. Heres the problem I have with you saying the TC not locking. You said the tranny shifted and operated just fine when you bought it and its mainly sit. SO how did the lockup all of a sudden stop - unless its electrical (Mike has a thread on this for alternator) or the condition of the fluid and filter impacting the lockup solenoid. Your simplest solution is to drive to revmax. They have quality parts - I have them. Many trucks with more HP than yours do have also - no issues. They charge less so there warranty is not as good as goerand. But with goerand you pay 1.5x other companies ....... for that warrranty. Its all the same. So lockup is normally electrical (alternator) or lockup solenoid needs replacement (lots of threads on it) comes with upgraded VB.

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As I understand it. TC locks with line pressure and solenoids in your VB. With all that material in your tranny fluid, its condition and especially the filter - who knows what impact to readings for your line pressure and VB. So its a $40 call. Heres the problem I have with you saying the TC not locking. You said the tranny shifted and operated just fine when you bought it and its mainly sit. SO how did the lockup all of a sudden stop - unless its electrical (Mike has a thread on this for alternator) or the condition of the fluid and filter impacting the lockup solenoid. Your simplest solution is to drive to revmax. They have quality parts - I have them. Many trucks with more HP than yours do have also - no issues. They charge less so there warranty is not as good as goerand. But with goerand you pay 1.5x other companies ....... for that warrranty. Its all the same. So lockup is normally electrical (alternator) or lockup solenoid needs replacement (lots of threads on it) comes with upgraded VB.

I am pretty new to all things Diesel, I have a few Toyotas, and they're all manuals. I thought that the TC locked via electrical signal. I didnt know it had anything to do with line pressure, although it does make since. I checked the electrical side before I left and everything checked out, I even ran a resistance check on the solenoid and it fell with in the spec. I found a good diagram on how to run a TCC switch and that didnt work either. I figured it was the converter clutch that had gone out. However it does make since that if the electrical signal is triggered by line pressure that it would not work with all the junk in the filter, and pan. I would be willing to gamble $150 on a Shift kit and fresh fluid. btw, what are your thoughts on the TransGo shift kit? I figure best case would be, this would buy me some time before I needed a new transmission. I mean, If all that clutch material in in the pan, what is left on the clutches themselves? Any thoughts you have are meet with open ears. Thank you for the help!:thumb1:

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Well I think lockup also involves the TPS and line pressure and a signal the the TCC lockup solenoid http://www.dieselram.com/showthread.php?t=197241 http://www.high-impact.net/transmission_and_gear/badboy_a618.htm http://www.mts-diesel.com/product_info.php?products_id=81 http://www.justanswer.com/dodge/3bg7q-47re-torque-converter-not-locking-up-trans-shifts-fine.html Speak with revmax I would do a fresh fluid and the alternator check. IF doesnt work - do a full rebuildwith revmax - have them install

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ok fist lets clear some stuff up.the TC not locking up can be caused by two things, 1. not commanded lockup, or 2 the trans is slipping/low line pressure/ or work lock up plate.the throttle doesn't have as much impact for unlocking the trans just in the case that you move the pedal quite far very fast. it causes the kick down cable to move, after the KD cable moves the line pressure enough it will cause the transmission to downshift. unless it is commanded to do so by the PCM. (for 4-3 downshift, or 3-2 Downshift.the TC lock up may be electronically controlled, however it is line pressure that creates it, if you lack the line pressur5e to lock it up the TCC can be fine but the LP out of the trans will be poor.I would drop your Valve body out disassemble it and clean it all, and then put it back, i would readjust your bands, and also flush the trans with ATF fluid, you could also blow out the output line from the trans and try to empty the TC of as much fluid as you can.The longer that crap is in there the worse it will be.After that fill it up and run the truck for 100-200 miles then drop the pan and put new fluid in. do this several times, to try and purge the crap out of the trans.I would think that as long as you have band adjustment left that you might be able to get5 away with this.Your transmissions lack of shifting without getting off of the throttle is a typical clogged Governor pressure soloniod.IMO, a case of ATF 4, and a few filters and a very good cleaning job may yield you some life out of the trans to save up for a new one which is definitely in your future.If you want you can read up on my AT trans diagnostics chart in General Cummins.

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hmmmm interesting... I guess im headed to the parts store to clean out there house brand ATF and all the filters they have. Say this works, do you think a shift kit would help boost line pressure and make it live "longer"? Thoughts?

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hmmmm interesting... I guess im headed to the parts store to clean out there house brand ATF and all the filters they have. Say this works, do you think a shift kit would help boost line pressure and make it live "longer"? Thoughts?

Whatever way you go you need a shift kit/aftermarket VB. Shift kit is cheaper - its DYI. An aftermarket VB is just a shift kit with (usually) a) Upgraded solenoids b) Apply lever at different ratio Theres a full writeup and install on doing shift kit on CF.

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I would rather not risk gunking up a brand new, high $$ VB on something I dont have high hopes of working. With the Shift kit, I can take it back out, and pawn it off later when I get a built trans.

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If you change tranny yourself make absolutely sure you remove the check valve in the brass fitting on the water cooled heat exchanger (located below the turbo). It is a spring and ball valve on the tubing connection to the exchanger to keep TC from draining while engine is off. Debris catches on that check valve and needs to be removed. Many rebuilders completely remove this check valve as it only means a 5 second delay in moving when initially engaging D or R. Pre 1994 never had them anyway but many rebuilt trannies have been ruined by this trash releasing when not flushed properly. The air heat exchanger and tubing should be flushed both ways several times using a small pump with fresh ATF. I think most tranny shops have a filter inline so they can flush the same fluid but this may be difficult for the casual mechanic. Some searching will yield a picture of it. DTT always removes this permanently. The plugged valve may also yield some of your symptoms with inadequate hydraulic pressure.

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If you change tranny yourself make absolutely sure you remove the check valve in the brass fitting on the water cooled heat exchanger (located below the turbo). It is a spring and ball valve on the tubing connection to the exchanger to keep TC from draining while engine is off. Debris catches on that check valve and needs to be removed. Many rebuilders completely remove this check valve as it only means a 5 second delay in moving when initially engaging D or R. Pre 1994 never had them anyway but many rebuilt trannies have been ruined by this trash releasing when not flushed properly. The air heat exchanger and tubing should be flushed both ways several times using a small pump with fresh ATF. I think most tranny shops have a filter inline so they can flush the same fluid but this may be difficult for the casual mechanic. Some searching will yield a picture of it. DTT always removes this permanently. The plugged valve may also yield some of your symptoms with inadequate hydraulic pressure.

Thank you for the good info! Depending on who I get to build the transmission will dictate who puts it in, however that is a little ways off. My current plan is to patch this one up so I can at least drive it. It will need to be inspected soon, so I kinda need it to drive to and from the inspection station.. :pray: I did some quick searches on the Drain back valve and I will be sure to remove it to clean the lines, but I think ill put it back in once im finished. This is for anyone: My current plan. 17qts of AFT+4 Change filter, and adjust the bands. attempt to flush the transmission as best I can. See how that goes. If the transmission improves, ill get a shift kit and flush the system again, if it stays the same I throw in the towel and wait for a rebuild, thought?

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