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so with whats in my signature your saying the rv 275 would be my best bet?:ahhh:ps i have to edit my sig its an automatic 1999 qcsb 4 wd auto fass 95 draw straw gauges 4in mbpr with muffler edge comp boost elbow amsoil bhaf cooper 265 75 16s

You really close to my setup...:thumbup2:http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/25-2002-dodge-ram-2500
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your 1 of the first guys I talked to when I bought this truck been learning ever since put the fass with the straw like you suggested and been running 2 stroke from the beginning and than from there all the rest gonna do these injectors and valve adjustment very soon first I want to do the rest of the front end steering stabilizer with shocks than I should be set for a while I think. thanks again for all the help.:thumbup2:

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so with whats in my signature your saying the rv 275 would be my best bet?:ahhh:ps i have to edit my sig its an automatic

IMO, being a 1999, you could safely push 60HP injectors and grab an extra 15-20hp over the 275's. IMO for general towing and such 60-75HP injectors are about the most you want, on a stock turbo. (Towing max weight with 99, i didn't get t hot was around 1,000F when accelerating with 60's, but trailer weighed more then 20,000lbs.:smart: Also plan on doing some upgrading on that auto before she cries, my auto was slipping with just 60HP injectors:smart: And last, when it comes time, you can go to my article for the injector install, it is a video form of the whole install process from Mike's writeup.
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I started with RV's and the smarty on an HY. Worked as a good all around truck. Just slow...:tongue:Added my 62 turbo first, dyno'd around IIRC 285hp and ~600tq. Since then I have added 150hp injectors. Around 110 more than the RV's (loose calculator)I would like to say I am around 350hp. This is with just hard parts. Only thing I have is a smarty. No pump tapping here. That will come on after the s475....Cant bring my self to get tapped yet. According to dyno threads with a tuner I could be around 500hp. :kick:

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With the pump tapped I was making 381/831 on the dyno back in 2007 with just a Edge Comp, Straight Pipe, BHAF... Huge difference... http://articles.mopar1973man.com/members-rides/17-mopar1973man/145-2002-dodge-ram-dyno-results

I need to buy and install teh second half of my twins setup. :ahhh: With my current setup only hitting about 35psi. All the reading I thoguht I would have enough fuel to hit around 40psi. Truck hazes at WOT, so I think I am going to hook my air compressor up and see what the waste gate opens up at too. Oter similar setups are running lower EGTs then me. So being it seems to haze and slightly higher egts I think the waste gate is opening prematurely. Also it seems to be running about the same boost it was with the rv275 and the newer injectors as well.
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Just a note of THANKS for the comments and help from everyone on this project. Got the injectors installed and valves adjusted, so far the truck runs like a champ and NO LEAKS :thumbup2:. I did learn a bunch and still learning.

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I did put in the 275Rv injectors. Makes a difference even with my "mild" Quadzilla box. I don't notice any added smoke but do feel the hp and torque in the seat of the pants. This should make a difference while I have my camper on and boat in tow. A couple of added mpg's wouldn't hurt either. Also I've been reading about problems with leaking high pressure fuel lines from others here. So far (knock on wood :pray:) there have been no leaks. I was real careful to keep the injectors loose while putting the cross-tubes in (with new o-ring seals) and after those were installed then torqued the injector hold-downs. Then torqued the fuel lines properly, at least those I coud get to with the torque wrench.So far it's been worth the time and expense. Thanks for checking.

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I do have a EGT Gauge and I have gotten in the habit of keeping an eye on it. Sometimes that gauge is about as active as the tachometer. Amazing how fast it can go up and also go down just as quickly.

--- Update to the previous post...

Hey...that was my 20th post so now I should be rated as a Standard Member!!! :hyper:

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I had leaking after my install, but I was told to tighten the injectors first. That was a mistake. I took everything loose and tightened the cross over tubes first and the leaks stopped. High and dry ever since. I did get a boost in milage even with all the leaks. Have not been able to run a tank on the highway sense to see if it improved after the leak fix. Last 2 tanks I got to check for highway was 19.2.:thumbup2:

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I think I found the info on leaving the injectors loose until after the crossover tubes were in place on this site. GREAT advice. I hope I can get a few more mpg...diesel prices :stuned: about got my truck parked except for fun use.

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  • 5 months later...

I like mine, i tow with a comp too, a 30 ft. 5er, but i will say i watched the wrong videos cause i dropped in my injectors, lined them up with the hold down and tightened them then the tubes and lines, fingers crossed been a month. I can see putting the tubes in first before locking down the injector if the injector could spin in its bore, but you can barely move them once they are in to line them up with the hold down, seem the hold down shoul have it alighned, i thought thats what the slot was for. maybe i should see if my oil is rising in the pan, is there any way else to tell, i dont smell fuel.

- - - Updated - - -

Also how did you guys no of a leak, was the leak external?

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I am thinking about switching to the rv275's. I have 100hp sticks on my stock turbo and the egt's are through the roof!! I would like to also see if I could maybe make better mileage with the smaller injectors. Right now I am running almost 800 degrees empty on flat highway going 60mph!!!!! It makes towing real fun hahaha

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