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teamroper55

Plugged turbo wategate?

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First off I am still figuring out everything on my new pickup and this site has been full of information, thanks a lot. The previous owner told me that he had put a bolt in the wastegate and I wouldn't have to worry about getting to high of boost pressures. I have a boost gauge but I am still worried about blowing the turbo up when I get a chip for hauling. I was wondering what you guys think about this little modification.

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i think any rigging things is bad ecpecially on something that has a purpose such as a waste gate:nono: the proper way to get more boost by the waist gate is stiffer spring in it (correct me if im wrong:duh:). as of right now what kind of boost are you running? i wouold think the stock boost would be plenty to a point. any ideas of what kind of chip you are wanting?

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What kind of boost pressures are you seeing now? ther are alot of ways to modify the turbo for greater boost. I am assuming by bolt he means a boost bolt or boost elbow which allows you to beed some pressure off of the waste gate so it stays closed longer for greater boost pressure. I am not very familiar with these, my turbo is mdified with a larger waste gate that allows me to increase my boost pressure. Others here know more than I do about them than I and I am sure someone will chime in and help out. but modifying for greater boost is not unusual.

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boost elbow:doh:lol forgot about that he just said bolt just lead me to assume sumn else:nono: if done with a boost elbow i see no problems with it as long as the boost isnt too much for the stock turbo and i dont know what the max is for these turbos :shrug: im a 2nd gen guy im sure some one with more knowlage of the crs can help with that:smart:

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He told me the waste gate line is plugged. I really haven't hot rodded too much but I don't think I've gotten it over 30. I will watch tomorrow

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im not sure what effects just plugging the line will have:shrug:id assume itd give more boost but idk what or if theres a negative to it, ive seen several truck drivers running cats do this and run for ever. personally i wouldnt want to do mine that way id do it right with a boost elbow or by a stiffer waste gate spring or adjustable waste gate to me rigging is a :nono:but some one with better knowlage:smart: maby able to shine a light on this

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If it is plugged the waste gate is not opening at all I would think. If you plan on adding a chip that could become an issue and over boosting is not good. But there are ways around it that should not be complicated. I would still defer to those more knowlageable than I.

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I'm also looking into a quadzilla chip or a smarty. I would really like a display that shows the rail pressure. I really don't wanna sacrifice my boost gauge and there really isn't a good place to put a fourth gauge.

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then get a quad with Pulse, or Edge w/display, etc.I can display 4 of a number of readings at any given time on mine. I usually display boost, egt, oil pressure, and coolant temp.

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As long as it isn't going over 35, it is fine. It should throw an overboost code though. Going over 35 on the stock turbo is not good. If you ever see it drift over 35 then you need to hook up the wastegate and get a boost elbow to get more boost yet allow it to be limited. Until you get that chip I don't think you have enough fuel to overboost it.

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It's an 04.5

Stock boost is 28-32 based on load, but will hit 32 most WOT runs and settle at 28-30 empty and 28-32 towing. The Smarty jr and other tuners will disable the WG electronically and I have only an honest 37 psi once with the WG disabled and 35-38 is where most people say efficiency peaks. You will probably not hurt anything having it blocked, but on stock tuning you may get an overboost code and the drive pressure is insane above 32 psi of boost, but it's not common to be able to hold 32+ unless pulling a grade. A WOT run in 4th and 5th to 3000 rpms would get me about 33-34 psi of boost and 55-60 psi of drive.

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Stock boost is 28-32 based on load, but will hit 32 most WOT runs and settle at 28-30 empty and 28-32 towing. The Smarty jr and other tuners will disable the WG electronically and I have only an honest 37 psi once with the WG disabled and 35-38 is where most people say efficiency peaks. You will probably not hurt anything having it blocked, but on stock tuning you may get an overboost code and the drive pressure is insane above 32 psi of boost, but it's not common to be able to hold 32+ unless pulling a grade. A WOT run in 4th and 5th to 3000 rpms would get me about 33-34 psi of boost and 55-60 psi of drive.

I just ordered a Smarty S-06 POD today. I am looking for the mpg and power when hauling the horses down the road. What would be the ideal setting to where I don't need to worry about the turbo?

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I just ordered a Smarty S-06 POD today. I am looking for the mpg and power when hauling the horses down the road. What would be the ideal setting to where I don't need to worry about the turbo?

If your trans is stock and your wanting to tow, with no real plans of mega power I would see about getting the Smarty Jr instead. It's torque management and timing settings are better suited for towing and the stock trans. But if you keep the S06 I would run SW1 TM2 TQ1 RP1 WG-Off PoD99 to tow, and if your smart with your right foot you could run SW3 TM2 TQ2 RP1 WG-Off for mileage.

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If your trans is stock and your wanting to tow, with no real plans of mega power I would see about getting the Smarty Jr instead. It's torque management and timing settings are better suited for towing and the stock trans. But if you keep the S06 I would run SW1 TM2 TQ1 RP1 WG-Off PoD99 to tow, and if your smart with your right foot you could run SW3 TM2 TQ2 RP1 WG-Off for mileage.

It has a trany from Certified Transmission. I don't know much about it other than that. The previous owner put it in and it only has about 11,000 miles on it. I'm not real sure how they handle the added horsepower, but he had the S06 in it before. Would the second set of settings be better for mpg in town?

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It has a trany from Certified Transmission. I don't know much about it other than that. The previous owner put it in and it only has about 11,000 miles on it. I'm not real sure how they handle the added horsepower, but he had the S06 in it before. Would the second set of settings be better for mpg in town?

I would call them and see if it was a stock rebuild, or has upgraded parts. A valve body and torque converter can hold 400 rwhp fairly well, so that would be a nice starting point if you already have it. Yes those would be good in town settings. As for the turbo, with the Sr and towing the following are going to be your limitations based on EGT's and pulling grades SW1: none SW3: 4-5K feet elevation will start to get hot SW5: 3-4K feet elevation will start to get hot
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I would call them and see if it was a stock rebuild, or has upgraded parts. A valve body and torque converter can hold 400 rwhp fairly well, so that would be a nice starting point if you already have it. Yes those would be good in town settings. As for the turbo, with the Sr and towing the following are going to be your limitations based on EGT's and pulling grades SW1: none SW3: 4-5K feet elevation will start to get hot SW5: 3-4K feet elevation will start to get hot

Thanks a lot. I live in good old flat Nebraska and the highest elevation I will prob get around is 3K unless there is a trip further west.

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