what interval do you change oil/oil filter at?

[Mopar1973Man]

Factory spec starts at 7.5K miles for a oil change.

Something to think about more people have cross the million mile mark on petroleum lubricants than synthetics. More people have crossed the million mile mark without doing a single oil analysis. I've got local ranchers with 250-500K miles on 1st and 2nd Gen truck changing oil at 15-20K miles. Just food for thought.

Even Mom's 1996 Dodge 1500 calls for oil change every 6K miles...

[ADawg]

Factory spec starts at 7.5K miles for a oil change.

Something to think about more people have cross the million mile mark on petroleum lubricants than synthetics. More people have crossed the million mile mark without doing a single oil analysis. I've got local ranchers with 250-500K miles on 1st and 2nd Gen truck changing oil at 15-20K miles. Just food for thought.

Even Mom's 1996 Dodge 1500 calls for oil change every 6K miles...

The reason I run synthetics in my truck is quote me if I am wrong is because of heat dispersion. Living in Vegas summer temps like this weekend are to be 117 out. I currently run 15w40 and will be switching to 5w40 for that reason also. Another point is people spend money on bypass kits and top brand oil to extend oil change intervals. This was the hope for my brother which obviously is not going to work on that brand of oil. After reading an article in TDR I am rethinking my choices on oil such as what I am running now considering where it ranked on this list.

[Mopar1973Man]

The reason I run synthetics in my truck is quote me if I am wrong is because of heat dispersion. Living in Vegas summer temps like this weekend are to be 117 out. I currently run 15w40 and will be switching to 5w40 for that reason also. Another point is people spend money on bypass kits and top brand oil to extend oil change intervals. This was the hope for my brother which obviously is not going to work on that brand of oil. After reading an article in TDR I am rethinking my choices on oil such as what I am running now considering where it ranked on this list.

I'm not far behind you its typical for Riggins, ID to be 110-115*F all summer long... Just because I live in Idaho doesn't mean we don't see 100-120*F temps either.

[ADawg]

I didnt realize Idaho got that hot! WOW! I know this subject has been brought up a million times but I am debating on switching from amsoil 15w40 heavy duty marine synthetic oil to synthetic 5w40 Valvoline premium blue, but then I read the TDR article and the person who did analysis says for the price difference you should run 15w40 premium blue cause there composition are basically the same as far as TBN, Calcium, Phosphor, and Zinc levels. I know just pick one and run with it right and change at recommended interval.

[Mopar1973Man]

5w-40 or 15w-40 is going to be the same. The fact is the coolant is going to reach 190-200*F and the final weight of the oil is still 40 weight. The only difference is the cold start is lighter. Which in your case with the summer heat its not going to matter anyways. As for conditions the oil run in is based on coolant not outside temp. Because the coolant is a constant 190-200*F roughly it really doesn't make any sense to change oil weights or brand just because summer is here. Two good guys to discuss oil about is CajFlynn and Dorkweed. Oh... It's going to be 106*F by Monday here at the house and yesterday in Riggins, ID when I stopped by Kelly's place it was 102*F in the shade of his shop. Ugh! Something to ponder... In all the years I've worked forums I've never seen a single Cummins Engine that was running Synthetic oil make over 1 million miles. But I've seen several Cummins engine running petroleum based oil make million miles and nearly 2 million miles. Just food for thought...

[ADawg]

5w-40 or 15w-40 is going to be the same. The fact is the coolant is going to reach 190-200*F and the final weight of the oil is still 40 weight. The only difference is the cold start is lighter. Which in your case with the summer heat its not going to matter anyways. As for conditions the oil run in is based on coolant not outside temp. Because the coolant is a constant 190-200*F roughly it really doesn't make any sense to change oil weights or brand just because summer is here. Two good guys to discuss oil about is CajFlynn and Dorkweed. Oh... It's going to be 106*F by Monday here at the house and yesterday in Riggins, ID when I stopped by Kelly's place it was 102*F in the shade of his shop. Ugh! Something to ponder... In all the years I've worked forums I've never seen a single Cummins Engine that was running Synthetic oil make over 1 million miles. But I've seen several Cummins engine running petroleum based oil make million miles and nearly 2 million miles. Just food for thought...

WHY WHY! do you throw out all these good points I had a decision now I have to ponder again. Where is DORKWEED? Ok so I will continue to run the 15w with the info you gave me maybe I will switch back to regular dino oil. Also the gentleman that did the analysis in the TDR article said between the two Premium Blue oils he wouldnt spend the extra cash on the synthetic because chemically they are basically the same. Plus its cheaper:thumbup2:

[Mopar1973Man]

WHY WHY! do you throw out all these good points I had a decision now I have to ponder again. Where is DORKWEED? Ok so I will continue to run the 15w with the info you gave me maybe I will switch back to regular dino oil. Also the gentleman that did the analysis in the TDR article said between the two Premium Blue oils he wouldnt spend the extra cash on the synthetic because chemically they are basically the same. Plus its cheaper:thumbup2:

Dorkweed... Dorkweed cleared 84K miles on a single oil change with WalMart SuperTech Unverisal Diesel Oil. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/7-dorkweed CajFlynn... CajFlynn cleared 1.3 Million miles on just Chevron Delo 15w-40 and fleetguard filters. http://forum.mopar1973man.com/members/145-cajflynn

[AH64ID]

OEM intevals are based on OEM engines as well. Any modification to air/fuel/tuning/timing will effect how the engine treats it's oil. The OEM intervals are also based on 100K mile warranties. The 04.5-07 HPCR has a schedule A interval of 15K miles. I put that in the impossible category based on soot loading of the HPCR 5.9 in those years, but I bet it makes the 100K mile warranty mark... Oil analysis is cheap, and lets you know if the oil is working. Some engines and mod combo's don't like certain oils. I know my wifes 4Runner motor didn't like the Amsoil 5w-30 (eats the TBN to near 2 in 8K miles), but the 0w-30 has more than half of it's TBN left in the same time. That's a stock motor, analysis is the only reason I know.

I'm not far behind you its typical for Riggins, ID to be 110-115*F all summer long... Just because I live in Idaho doesn't mean we don't see 100-120*F temps either.

Don't get too crazy, 115° is the record for Riggins from 1967. Riggins is always HOT thou! Boise's record high is 111° from 1960. The radio said we were supposed to get to 111° here today, that's about 41° hotter than it needs to be for a nice summer. In hot weather synthetics have better clinging properties, and thus it takes longer for the oil to all drain back to the pan. This prevents dry starts created by the high temps. As for the TDR reports they are usually good, but not great. Take them with a grain of salt and be sure to verify the findings. Each report I look at has some decent false information in them.

[ADawg]

Hey AH64ID good to hear from you! What do you guys think about running amsoil diesel synthetic 10w30? A gallon is 20 bucks? I am either going to try it out and do a OA at 5000 or go with the PMB extreme 5w40. Just because from what I am gathering the synthetics cling to the internal better than dino oil and have less detergents to wear out. I am probably making a big deal of this but this whole subject is very interesting. Plus I would like to run a all year round oil. I was thinking 10w30 would be a happy medium. One other thing is I plan on going off Schedule B or the one if you run your cummins hard just to make me feel better.

[AH64ID]

It's a thinner 30wt.The only 30wt I know that we "can" run is the HDD 5w-30 and the 10w-30 is thinner. It's probably okay if you live on the highway at 75 without a trailer, but I wouldn't use it for towing.I run Amsoil 15w-40 AME year round. Cold temp pour point of -44°F, compared to -27° for Delo 400 LE 15w-40. I just got a UOA back for 5,700 miles on the oil. It's a little earlier than I normally sample my oil but I wanted to see how the motor (mainly soot) was liking my new tuning. I am running a bit more timing down low and a very different rail pressure map. My wear metals are the lowest to date (been sampling since 15K miles), soot is also the lowest to date for the miles. In fact it's the best UOA I have had in 11 samples. The only things that were "out of normal" were boron and magnesium, which are leftover from the Delo 400 LE I used for 3 very short oil intervals last November. Everything else looks great, but without UOA I wouldn't know.

[ADawg]

It's a thinner 30wt. The only 30wt I know that we "can" run is the HDD 5w-30 and the 10w-30 is thinner. It's probably okay if you live on the highway at 75 without a trailer, but I wouldn't use it for towing. I run Amsoil 15w-40 AME year round. Cold temp pour point of -44°F, compared to -27° for Delo 400 LE 15w-40. I just got a UOA back for 5,700 miles on the oil. It's a little earlier than I normally sample my oil but I wanted to see how the motor (mainly soot) was liking my new tuning. I am running a bit more timing down low and a very different rail pressure map. My wear metals are the lowest to date (been sampling since 15K miles), soot is also the lowest to date for the miles. In fact it's the best UOA I have had in 11 samples. The only things that were "out of normal" were boron and magnesium, which are leftover from the Delo 400 LE I used for 3 very short oil intervals last November. Everything else looks great, but without UOA I wouldn't know.

Ok so I will toss out the 10w30 idea for the reason if I have to tow with it. Dont get me wrong I like amsoil products but I would like to get something that is in stock locally that is also lighter on the wallet. I know there are people in Vegas that sell locally but they are on the other side of town and are usually not open on the weekends and close by the time I get off work. For the cost issue that is why I was looking at the Amsoil 10w30 cause for 4 quarts shipped and tax only 98 bucks but I will take your advice and skip on it. I guess I will have to a conclusion on this topic myself cause there really is no cut and dry answer. I know for sure that I want to try a 5w synthetic oil though just to see if I can gain some MPG's why not huh.

[AH64ID]

The 5wt is the cold flow properties, and will not effect mileage once warmed up. The 40 is the warm number. On an engine the size of the ISB I doubt there is anything to be gained mileage wise. Have you thought about the cheaper, but shorter OEM interval, OE oil?

[ADawg]

The 5wt is the cold flow properties, and will not effect mileage once warmed up. The 40 is the warm number. On an engine the size of the ISB I doubt there is anything to be gained mileage wise. Have you thought about the cheaper, but shorter OEM interval, OE oil?

I agree with you I dont know what I was thinking . Actually that's what I would like to do as far as going back to the OE drain interval I think I can save some cash or at least a little what OE oil brand do you have in mind? The Amsoil 15w40 syn OE? I was also looking into the Premium Blue extreme oil and running that for 7500 and then changing it. I mean I do plug in most of the time but I also forget sometimes too

[AH64ID]

I agree with you I dont know what I was thinking . Actually that's what I would like to do as far as going back to the OE drain interval I think I can save some cash or at least a little what OE oil brand do you have in mind? The Amsoil 15w40 syn OE? I was also looking into the Premium Blue extreme oil and running that for 7500 and then changing it. I know its 5w but I thought best of both worlds I guess that way when winter comes I dont really have to switch. I mean I do plug in most of the time but I also forget sometimes too

I beleive both are a CJ oil, so whatever you want. Personally I would run the Amsoil OED 15w-40. It will still have excellent cold flow properties. If you not a preferred member shoot me a PM and we can look at cost.

[ADawg]

I beleive both are a CJ oil, so whatever you want. Personally I would run the Amsoil OED 15w-40. It will still have excellent cold flow properties. If you not a preferred member shoot me a PM and we can look at cost.

Thanks John actually I am a preferred customer and looking at the cost its not bad. I am going to run a OA on my oil that I am running now I have 7000 on it. It is the Amsoil 15w40 heavy duty marine oil. My brother runs that which his OA came back not very good so he needs to change it which he is mad but he does not understand that his truck is not stock especially running a smarty on it he thought he could go 10,000 before change. They said the oil oxidized causing high bearing wear. thats why I was thinking about going with the 5w to lube better at operating temps.

[dorkweed]

JFYI's; now that I'm running Valvoline Premium Blue, I change the oil out yearly.But between that, I change out the TP in my MotorGuard bypass oil filter at about 5k mile intervals and then add a quart of "make up oil". At the yearly change out now I change the OEM oil filter with a new Fleetguard one. I average between 20-25,000 miles/year also. I'm still $$$ and oil ahead doing it this way vs. the 5k complete oil/filter change many do here.Just saying.PS..............Even though I'm running VPB now, I would not hesitate to go back to WallyWorld SuperTech diesel oil at all. For you's guys running all over the country.........that's something to think about in your travels. You're always near a WallyWorld unless you live near Michael!!!!:lmao2:I tend to think that's a good thing though!!!! Not living near a WallyWorld.

[Mopar1973Man]

As long the oil meets the API grade on the bottle and API requirements of the engine then brand names means nothing. I've used Chevron Delo, Mobil Delvac, Shell Rotella, etc. all 15w-40 petroleum oil. Being 1st and 2nd gen trucks were designed for CI-4 oils and 3rd Gens designed for CJ-4 oils (after 2007 IIRC). After dorkweed's run on Supertech for 84K on a single oil change. Then CajFlynn doing million plus miles on Chevron Delo and Fleetguard filters at every 20K miles. Why would you need anything else???

[dripley]

:iagree::iagree: