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I applaud your patience! You deserve some help. I think you had only the CTM module problem originally but a second problem was introduced by replacing the VP44. This quote below is interesting as it explains the interaction of the CTM with the PCM computer: "The CTM provides the Powertrain Control Module (PCM) with an "OK To Start" message via the CCD bus. If the message is not received by the PCM, the PCM will not allow the engine to start. Initially, the engine may start and stall but will eventually not start at all. Most CTMs are supplied battery voltage through the power door lock fuse. " http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2000/08-24-00.htm As for your remaining problem I would reset the P0216 code which is VP44 timing failure (timing advance piston binds in the bore on older pumps) and see if it returns. If it does return I would suspect a bad VP44 and return it. Otherwise, the key on the gear shaft for the VP44 is matched to the pump. The stamped number(3 digits) has to match the numbers on the pump for correct timing. Also, these keys are easy to squish if not in the shaft groove exactly when tightening the gear nut. I painted mine yellow on front face and checked for alignment to shaft groove with mirror before torquing as suggested by the BlueChip write-up. The arrow has to point proper direction as well. By the way I bought my truck with a P0216 code that was causing dead pedal and poor mileage but normal otherwise. I would suspect the key but check the easier suggestions first - APPS reset for sure. I learned how to change the VP44 by watching a step by step video on You-Tube (5 part video). Good luck.

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Thanks guys for the info, its sad to say but i was screwed by a guy claiming to know what he was doing, after 6 months finally got my truck back in literal pieces. ive just been trying to put the puzzle back together for the past three months not really knowing what has actually been done or not done. the only thing i really know is what ive stated, so thank u all for ur patience and help!

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Sometimes you have to cut your losses & dump an incompetent mechanic. I know 1 that is basically a good guy but can't fix ____. I just use his lift & pay him for the trouble. 01 FSM is on pdftown & may be helpful putting the truck back together. Be sure to add 1oz of 2-stroke oil to each gallon of fuel. I had a new ump throw a 0215, MWFI said I had gas in my fuel. I dumped a tank & added 2stroke. Code hasn't returned. It may be a case of keeping the elephants away but I don't feel like paying for another pump.

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if the mechanic replaced the VP-44, but put the wrong key in, or didn't get the key in right you can throw a 0216 code.Although i have learned sometimes its best to just do it yourself.ship your truck to me and i'll put it together for you :thumbup2:

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I am not so sure a wrong or damaged key can produce a P0216 code. The VP44 processor gives an output command to the timing piston actuator and reads/confirms the actual position from an optical disk that measures rotation of the advance mechanism within the pump. The processor has no means to tell whether the key is correct as it is external to the pump. In fact the correct key gives the correct TDC reference via a number which is determined by the re-builder on an expensive test bench machine. The re-builder puts the key number on a metal tag on the pump to make sure the correct key number can be verified at installation. The IP gear remains meshed to the cam gear in the R&R procedure and the key is only used to make up for small machining variances in the shaft key groove and small machining tolerance variation within the pump. The problem is when people get the key mixed up or the key gets squished but the processor software can not detect that and we get poor running performance. The code could be left over from the original pump and that is why we need to erase it to differentiate whether the key or new pump is the likely problem. If the code comes back as P0216, the new pump is faulty and would need to be replaced on warranty and the key would be easily checked at that time anyway.

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if i could afford to ship it to a real quality dodge mechanic i would at this point ive done my best with the pile of parts i started with; i got it running finally, just still think its not all right if anyone understands what im saying. thanks again everyone for the help though, it is appreciated!

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if i could afford to ship it to a real quality dodge mechanic i would at this point ive done my best with the pile of parts i started with; i got it running finally, just still think its not all right if anyone understands what im saying. thanks again everyone for the help though, it is appreciated!

start taking pictures of the parts and i'll help you out.
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