Head studs and twins build !!!!!

[2500ctd]

Nice. Looking forward to this. Dont be suprised if I ask for some detailed pics along the way.

[JOHNFAK]

Nice. Looking forward to this. Dont be suprised if I ask for some detailed pics along the way.

[JOHNFAK]

DONE !! All 26 in and torqued to 100 ft pounds.

Going to back off 1x1 and ensure 1/4 turn off bottom and then torque to 115 and then straight to 130.

After that drive for a bit and retorque to 130 ;)

No clearance issues getting them in. Need to check valve cover but think that's for 12v.

[AH64ID]

My CR had valve cover issues, so be sure to check it. Not sure you need to back them off and check where they sit, haven't heard of anyone doing that before. Personally I'd take them to 115, the 125 (or 130 if you want) and then hit the block heater overnight, 125 again, then drive for awhile and recheck at 125 (or your 130).

[JOHNFAK]

My CR had valve cover issues, so be sure to check it.

Not sure you need to back them off and check where they sit, haven't heard of anyone doing that before. Personally I'd take them to 115, the 125 (or 130 if you want) and then hit the block heater overnight, 125 again, then drive for awhile and recheck at 125 (or your 130).

Got this from Glacier Diesel arp install pdf.

12.Remove the stock head bolt.

13. Using finger pressure, thread an ARP stud into the block until the stud lightly bottoms out. Back the stud out ½ turn. Make a mark on the top of the stud to verify that the stud does not turn back in and bottom when installing the nut and washer

14.Using the supplied ARP Lube lightly coat the protruding threads of the new stud.

15. Lightly coat both sides of one washer and the contact face of one nut.

16. Install this washer and nut on the stud. Screw the nut down until contact is made, while verifying that the stud has not turned and bottomed out in the block.

17. Torque the new stud to 100 ft/lbs.

18.Go back and repeat steps 12 thru 17 until all 26 stock head bolts have been replaced with studs and torque to 100 ft/lbs

19.Now, following the torque sequence on the previous page begin bringing the studs up to final torque in incremental steps. For 425’s we typically come up to final torque in 10 ft/lb increments. For 625’s we use 15 ft/lb increments.

ARP Recommended Final Torque Values

P/N 247-4202 425’s Final Torque 125 ft/lbs

P/N 247-4204 625’s Final Torque 150 ft/lbs

[AH64ID]

I don't see that telling you to remove the nut and check the depth again, but do 12-17 1 time per stud, or 26 times, not 52.

[JOHNFAK]

Oh yeah - I get you - ;) repeat for each bolt - not repeat at end - doh haha - thats why your spare car's a ferrari and mines a miada

[JOHNFAK]

Retorqued after HOT to 130 again - little movement.Hmm ok so I thought it was tight on clearance (valve cover ) but ok. Well took for a drive and oil leak.So ground down the front of the valve cover at front - and pretty sure thats fixed - but really cant grind much back in the back. Also hard to tell if its locking down in the back enough to create a seal with gasket.So - gonna tighten it down and drive and monitor for leaks - if it does - any suggestions ? I have another gasket here and was almost wondering about running two gaskets - one on top of the other. :shrug:thx

[mr.mindless]

I'd pull the gasket and see if I could feel where the cover was rocking from touching underneath. use some putty to judge clearance if needed... but if it'll sit flat on the top of the head it'll surely seat with a gasket.I don't know if two would seal well, but they are pretty stout gaskets...

[JOHNFAK]

I'd pull the gasket and see if I could feel where the cover was rocking from touching underneath. use some putty to judge clearance if needed... but if it'll sit flat on the top of the head it'll surely seat with a gasket.

AWESOME !!! Couldnt see the forest for the trees. ... or whatever Took out the head gasket and it sits right down onto the head - so its surely not blocked anymore and should tighten down and seal - will check this today as I have a 6 hour roadtrip tomorrow

[AH64ID]

I only had clearance issues at the back, IIRC #24, and had to take about 1/4" off my valve cover to get it to seal.

[JOHNFAK]

I only had clearance issues at the back, IIRC #24, and had to take about 1/4" off my valve cover to get it to seal.

1/4" off where ?

[AH64ID]

Where the nut for #24 is, it is taller than the OEM bolt and touched the valve cover.

[JOHNFAK]

Look what came today. This is what $1300 looks like !!! HAHAH Turbo should be here later this week. :thumbup2:Starting monday morning if all aligns well

[AH64ID]

Woot!!

[kidneight]

Nice!

[JOHNFAK]

Waiting on my primary ... Delays ... No GO SUPER FAST part fine today ....

Should net me another 10 hp

[JOHNFAK]

It's done.... Couldn't run it though as missing a couple clamps

Primary in - its BIG

Secondary and piping

Air intake and all buttoned up minus the missing clamp

My nice stainless manifold

Yay 12 hours of install time two people ----- all was taken off and disassembled night before

[AH64ID]

Looks great!

[kidneight]

That looks great! I am not sure if I missed it, but did you mention what turbos you went with? Did you have to notch the new valve cover too, because of the head studs?