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I'll update my torque converter locking/unlocking status.  Whenever mine was acting up, I would tighten the battery cables, and it would go away.  I was using some marine batteries with 3/8 studs, and the usual stack of cables.  I noticed that every time I checked, (basically whenever the lock/unlock thing flared up), I could tighten the nuts a little bit.  The problem got some better when I added lockwashers, so maybe they were backing off, or maybe the springiness of the washer helped make the connection better.  I also noticed that I was overtightening the nuts and very gradually pulling the studs up through the lead terminal.

 

Anyway, this winter my 3-year-old, $60 Walmart marine department closeout batteries finally began to stagger, so I put in two new, appropriately-sized Interstate batteries with normal posts.  My normal-battery-post tactic is to use the solid brass clamps with studs, and convert all the wires and cable to ring terminals (already done on the previous battery setup). 

 

So I realized today that I've gone several months now with no lock/unlock problems. 

 

I guess one other factor is moisture--there seemed to be some correlation between moisture and the problem (for me).  Apparently, moisture is a thing of the past here in NW Oklahoma, so it's no longer a factor.  But maybe it will rain next year, and I will have one more data point. :)

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hello gents.  new to the site.  i didnt realize mike had his own site...duh...

ive seen his posts elsewhere, but didnt think to check...

so.  i am having the tc issue.  cant say its related to wet or dry, tho im in southern cali and its been super dry here.  ive noticed the issue really stood out after a starter change, disconnected batteries for change out.  today, i did the voltage test.....and say 14v dc....and for ac....it started high....and progressed to zero in under 5 sec.  what am i doing wrong??

i really like the truck....but this is just one of the issues im having....i believe ive got trans issues as it shifts funny and doesnt like to shift into OD unless i back off throttle or drive faster than 60mph.

ill search other threads for input on trans issues.

thanks for the time.  looking forward to the knowledge.

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ill give it a shot. 

if problem persists...what else could cause it?  low fluid? speed sensor sending funky signals to apps??

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also, does the alt. fuse provide power to the whole box....and if so, my truck wont run that way.  i pulled the battery fuse... 50amp....truck starts...but dies a second later, i cant drive it.

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The alternator fuse just takes the alternator out of the system. You still have battery power just no charging and the truck should run until the batteries die.

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ill give it a shot.

if problem persists...what else could cause it? low fluid? speed sensor sending funky signals to apps??

If the truck dies when you pull the alternator fuse it probably means your batteries are toast. It should run for quite a while with out an alt. Did you reset the apps after you had the batteries disconnected? If not this can cause some drive ability issues.

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Update to the update, its back!!!  I barely have 2000 miles on the truck since "the fix" and it started hunting, unlocking and bouncing back and forth.  Now what?

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Update to the update, its back!!! I barely have 2000 miles on the truck since "the fix" and it started hunting, unlocking and bouncing back and forth. Now what?

Ok guys just a quick tidbit of information. Has anyone here corrected the grounding issue on the trucks prone to this issue?

If the diodes are constantly taking a dump it would seem to me that only 2 reasons for this to occur are happening. A: poor construction and B: ground based issue. I myself have alot of altered and added ground wires on the truck. Especially from the PCM to the body ground and the alternator to ground. I will be going through my grounds in the winter months to clean them also and add some sealer to them to prevent further and future corrosion.

Mike has been nailing this problem on the alternator diode trio failure for some time but I have taken additional precautions to help with future issues.

Edited by Vais01

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Can't remember if I posted in this thread .... but Mike on a 24v TPS ppump .... same issues .... different cause.

There was a dead spot in the TPS itself ... so basically as you moved the throttle the voltage went up .... but right near lockup there was a dead spot and voltage goes to 0. Lockup in and out.

New TPS .... a good.

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Ok guys just a quick tidbit of information. Has anyone here corrected the grounding issue on the trucks prone to this issue?

If the diodes are constantly taking a dump it would seem to me that only 2 reasons for this to occur are happening. A: poor construction and B: ground based issue. I myself have alot of altered and added ground wires on the truck. Especially from the PCM to the body ground and the alternator to ground. I will be going through my grounds in the winter months to clean them also and add some sealer to them to prevent further and future corrosion.

Mike has been nailing this problem on the alternator diode trio failure for some time but I have taken additional precautions to help with future issues.

 

PCM, ECM and VP44 grounds are all on the passenger side battery cable. Take a peek you'll see on cable running toward the PCM and cowling. There is no body ground on these units. The only reason for the cheap strap to the PCM is because it mounted into plastic clips the most likely reduce the shielding effect of the case.

 

 

Can't remember if I posted in this thread .... but Mike on a 24v TPS ppump .... same issues .... different cause.

There was a dead spot in the TPS itself ... so basically as you moved the throttle the voltage went up .... but right near lockup there was a dead spot and voltage goes to 0. Lockup in and out.

New TPS .... a good.

 

Typically if the APPS sensor drop out of range for anytime it "should" throw a P0122 code for low volts because it did drop too low. In your case with the p-pump set up I'm not certain what the other system errors will do to impact the reporting. :shrug:

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low

 

Monitor & Set Conditions

Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) voltage is monitored when engine is running. DTC may be stored if low voltage is detected on APPS signal circuit or low voltage is detected between Engine Control Module (ECM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM).

Possible Causes
  • 5-volt Supply At APPS Shorted To ECM Sensor Ground
  • APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To ECM Sensor Ground
  • 5-volt Supply To Ground
  • APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Ground
  • APPS Signal Circuit Open To ECM
  • PCM (APPS) Short To ECM Sensor Ground
  • ECM (APPS) To PCM (APPS) Circuit Shorted
  • ECM (APPS) To PCM (APPS) Circuit Open
  • Short To ECM Sensor Ground
  • Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS)
  • Engine Control Module
  • Powertrain Control Module

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<p>

PCM, ECM and VP44 grounds are all on the passenger side battery cable. Take a peek you'll see on cable running toward the PCM and cowling. There is no body ground on these units. The only reason for the cheap strap to the PCM is because it mounted into plastic clips the most likely reduce the shielding effect of the case.

Typically if the APPS sensor drop out of range for anytime it "should" throw a P0122 code for low volts because it did drop too low. In your case with the p-pump set up I'm not certain what the other system errors will do to impact the reporting. :shrug:

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/59-obdii-error-codes-cummins/151-p0122-apps-sensor-signal-voltage-too-low

Monitor & Set Conditions

Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS) voltage is monitored when engine is running. DTC may be stored if low voltage is detected on APPS signal circuit or low voltage is detected between Engine Control Module (ECM) and Powertrain Control Module (PCM). Possible Causes

  • 5-volt Supply At APPS Shorted To ECM Sensor Ground
  • APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To ECM Sensor Ground
  • 5-volt Supply To Ground
  • APPS Signal Circuit Shorted To Ground
  • APPS Signal Circuit Open To ECM
  • PCM (APPS) Short To ECM Sensor Ground
  • ECM (APPS) To PCM (APPS) Circuit Shorted
  • ECM (APPS) To PCM (APPS) Circuit Open
  • Short To ECM Sensor Ground
  • Accelerator Pedal Position Sensor (APPS)
  • Engine Control Module
  • Powertrain Control Module
Correct the PCM has a wire heading to the battery but on my truck it is within the wiring loom heading to the drivers side.

My battery terminals both have 3 ground leads. One to the body, one to the engine block, one into the wiring loom going heading towards the drivers side (probably to the ECM) and one to the frame. There are a total of 6 ground wires from both batteries.

The PCM needs to have a very good ground. I do not remember what alterations were done on the transmission ground wiring but I do know something was changed to prevent shift hunting.

Edited by Vais01

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Pretty simple just keep your cables clean and in good order. Remember I might own a 2002 Dodge diesel manual but the 1996 is automatic no issues with hunting at all. No extra grounds added to that truck no wiring mods either. It 19 years old and still working fine. Still has the factory 46RE transmission too.

 

14092ev.jpg

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My PCM has a ground wire from one of the mounting bolts to the fire wall and the ECM has no separate ground. The only connection to it is the 50 pin connector. This is how it came from the factory.

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hello guys .......  working on a 2001.5 dodge diesel 4x4 auto . been driving since 2010 ......

 

anyways while chasing drive line vibration , I ended up  chasing a rabbit down a hole .

 

short version , my multimeter on dc reads 13.8vdc ( reverse the wires and it reads -13.8vdc) , then switch it to ac and it reads around 28 to 30 vac , switch the wires and it reads 0000 .

 

so I am assuming I have a leaky diode .

 

now has anyone thought to add a external rectifier bridge in addiction to what is inside to alternator ?

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i was just going to post something alone those lines ...... one multi meter is reading 28 - 30vac , another one is bouncing between .01and .02 volts ac .

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i was just going to post something alone those lines ...... one multi meter is reading 28 - 30vac , another one is bouncing between .01and .02 volts ac .

 

That's a valid number what is bold and underlined... The 28-30 is a poor quality meter.

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so the meter i used to was an IDEAL model 61-360.  it started out with a high reading and worked its way back to zero.

 

cheap meter or does this sound right?

 

i think meter was 80 bucks or so new....yrs ago.

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