Jump to content
Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

  • Welcome To Mopar1973Man.Com LLC

    We are a privately owned support forum for the Dodge Ram Cummins Diesels. All information is free to read for everyone. To interact or ask questions you must have a subscription plan to enable all other features beyond reading. Please go over to the Subscription Page and pick out a plan that fits you best. At any time you wish to cancel the subscription please go back over to the Subscription Page and hit the Cancel button and your subscription will be stopped. All subscriptions are auto-renewing. 

Torque Converter Lock / Unlock Issues

Mopar1973Man
 Share

Recommended Posts

  • Staff
JAG1

JAG1

Posted
  • Staff
Posted

I noticed that on my truck I had to wait until the grid heaters stopped cycling as DC voltage goes from 13.8 VDC (off) to 10.5 VDC (on) and the DVM picks this up as AC. Does not account for the 30 VAC you are getting though?

Other than the 30 VAC showing up, my trucks' showing the same charging numbers.
Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdeng

jdeng

Posted
Posted

OK, the truck was hunting pretty bad this morning--seems to be getting steadily worse. I pulled over and removed the 140 amp alternator fuse. Didn't realize it took tools to do that, but I did have the right socket.

Still hunts. Maybe not as badly, but it's hard to tell, because it's pretty intermittent anyway. But it definitely didn't fix the problem.

The shop that just did the transmission service last week thought they had it fixed when they found "Low voltage to solenoid" and cleaned the battery connections. It sure seemed to fix it for a few days.

I'll go back through this thread and re-read it tonight, but it kind of sounds like I could have a grounding problem.

- - - Updated - - -

Mike,

I understand your argument that the truck ran x amount of years without having the problem. I have been reading about the voltage regulator theory and it makes some sense to me, not that it inherently makes noise, more that in an aged and possibly degrading state that it could become a problem prior to complete failure. Wouldn't your test removing the alternator fuse also shut down the voltage regulator?

Would it be better to get the one wire alternator that has the regulator built in? Thus eliminating the regulator in the PCM (and not having to replace an expensive PCM due to a degrading/failing voltage regulator)

Just playing devils advocate while I'm supposed to be working.

Sincerely,

David Callomon

OK, if the VR function is being done by the PCM, then it's not really a voltage regulator like we normally think of them, is it? Seems like it's just software in the computer, where the computer sees battery voltage and then switches the field excitation on or off as needed, right? So it seems unlikely to be the sort of thing that would create a lot of AC noise. Realize that my understanding is pretty vague, and correct me if I'm wrong.

- - - Updated - - -

Mike, I totally agree with you ........ See the attached TSB on this as Chryslers official take on this:

http://dodgeram.info/tsb/1999/18-02-99.htm

That TSB has this statement: "Verify that the brake switch shows a released status that is consistent and verify the park/neutral status reads D/R and is consistent."

What would the brake switch have to do with this? I may have something else to check there--my brake light has always been on on this truck. One of the many quirks that I will fix "when I have time". But could it have a bearing on my lock/unlock issues?:cookoo:

- - - Updated - - -

The newest in my lock-up issue's are now it lock/unlocks rapidly when its raining or wet out. I went to TSC the other day, it was dry out and the trans shifted perfect but when I came back outside it was raining really hard. The roads were flooded and the truck was locking/unlocking rapidly, like twice a second. Now even after it quits raining its still doing it so im gonna pull the alternator fuse and take it for a drive. Will report back shortly.

- - - Updated - - -

No go, pulled fuse and still shifting.

As I go back and read through this entire thread I find more and more interesting stuff that I missed.

When I washed my truck this morning, the lock/unlock thing got a lot worse. Any idea what could be causing that?:think:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
balsip

balsip

Posted
Posted

Washing deteriorates the ground connections. ie. wire bolted to engine block or sheet metal. Try the filter from BD or make one with resistor and capacitor as I did. It worked for me perfectly although I would have liked to find the actual bad ground and fix that. Sometimes you just have to do what works, although Mike would rather find the actual problem rather than mask it by filtering out the noise that the PCM sees.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Cummin Dodge

Cummin Dodge

Posted
Posted

Here is a few things i have found with my truck. First thing was the positive wire off of the alternator (the big one) was rubbing on the alternator mounting bracket and wore the wire insulation a little thin, so I put some wire loom stuff around it and zip tied it to where it didn't rub anymore, my problem went away for a couple weeks then came back. Finally I went through and double checked my negative battery cable ends and they were a little loose i guess thats what i get for buying cheap ones because I have tightened them down more than a few times. After that my problem has never came back, my torque converter would lock and unlock in 3rd and 4th gear both.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
fire176969

fire176969

Posted
Posted

Well its been dry here and its acting up all the time now. I unhooked the terminals and resset the apps and on the first ride it acted nutty. I dont know what else to do. Maybe have my batteries checked but I just got them last year?:mad:

My truck will start doing this pretty much whenever it feels like it. I use my lock up switch until I get home. Every time mine has started doing this I have taken the terminals off the passenger side battery, even though they appeared clean and were tight, cleaned them with a terminal cleaner and re connected then and it goes away for a few months. It sounds like your truck acts the same, starts when it is raining and progresses until it is constant. That is what always seems to cure mine for a while. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites
Fishcarver

Fishcarver

Posted
Posted

I recently replaced my OEM alternator with a new one (not-rebuilt) and three days ago, started having TC issues at 45-55 mph.I came to this forum right away and checked out this information and after checking voltages and all removing the alternator fuse, the truck ran normal with the fuse out. Replaced the alternator and havn't had an issue as of yet.I had to replace the 140 amp fuse cause I touched a hot lead:banghead:. Yeah, I know, disconnect the batteries:doh:Thanks Mike for all the hard work you put into this site. I have learned so much here and I plan to keep coming back to learn more.Thanks again,

Link to comment
Share on other sites
wagntagn

wagntagn

Posted
Posted

Good for you Brian,I've been dealing with that problem for a long time,tried everything but never changed the alternator,but last trial worked good so far ,over 2 weeks and no problems,I installed the BD noise isolator and all good so far.So for now nobody really nows the cure !!!!!:cookoo::cookoo::cookoo:

Link to comment
Share on other sites
Fishcarver

Fishcarver

Posted
Posted

I think Mike is right about going after the problem causer and forget the bandaids. I put my old alternator back on and it has not given me any issues for two days and I will see how it works out, then I will return the new alternator and get a another new one.I have some background in electrical things and I can say that with the newer vehicles with computer stuff, the electricity to all parts of the vehicle is very critical. Much fluctuation and you will have issues.Batteries and alternators are a cheap fix compared to a VP or ECM. The problem with bandaid fixes, filters and metal wrappings are they basically cover over the real issue as mentioned previously. So if I fix my TC hunt with a bandaid, what happens to the messed up current going to the other electrical parts? I believe that these vehicles are so sensitive to electrical changes that you must go to the source of the problem, don't cover it up, or you will be asking for problems down the road, IMHO.Didn't mean to get so long winded but I think Mike has this figured out pretty well, time will tell of course but this is a big issue that he may have just got an answer for.

Link to comment
Share on other sites
jdeng

jdeng

Posted
Posted

OK, I have a brief update on my particular problems. Since pulling the alternator fuse didn't help, and washing the truck made it worse, when I finally got time to work on it, here what I did:1. Cleaned the battery terminals. They were already clean, but I re-configured them a little because I didn't like the way the shop had done them. I don't figure that I made any difference on my transmission problem.2. Loosened and retightend the alternator mounting bolts. At least the ones that were easy to get to. Thinks look kind of corroded and rusty there.3. Added a ground wire from the alternator case to the battery. I went to one of the case screws, since it was easy to get to.I now have 3 weeks of occasional driving and the lock/unlock problem is completely fixed. It's too dry here to do much farmwork, and I'm not feeding cattle, so the truck doesn't get driven much, but I think I've driven enough to consider the problem fixed.:hyper:I think it was the ground wire that did the trick. Does that make any sense to you guys who actually understand the system? If so, how is the alternator supposed to be grounded? Is it just through the mounting bolts?JKD

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
  • 2 weeks later...
balsip

balsip

Posted
Posted

OK, I have a brief update on my particular problems. Since pulling the alternator fuse didn't help, and washing the truck made it worse, when I finally got time to work on it, here what I did: 1. Cleaned the battery terminals. They were already clean, but I re-configured them a little because I didn't like the way the shop had done them. I don't figure that I made any difference on my transmission problem. 2. Loosened and retightend the alternator mounting bolts. At least the ones that were easy to get to. Thinks look kind of corroded and rusty there. 3. Added a ground wire from the alternator case to the battery. I went to one of the case screws, since it was easy to get to. I now have 3 weeks of occasional driving and the lock/unlock problem is completely fixed. It's too dry here to do much farmwork, and I'm not feeding cattle, so the truck doesn't get driven much, but I think I've driven enough to consider the problem fixed.:hyper: I think it was the ground wire that did the trick. Does that make any sense to you guys who actually understand the system? If so, how is the alternator supposed to be grounded? Is it just through the mounting bolts? JKD

I am betting that ground wire from the alternator case to the battery terminal is the real problem solver as a ground path through rusty mounting bolts is not sound engineering on a possible 130 amp noise source. You could always try disconnecting at the battery terminal temporaily to confirm if you have the time and desire?
  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
fire176969

fire176969

Posted
Posted

I decided to try adding a ground wire to my alternator before I cleaned the battery terminals again and the issue didn't happen once on the way to work this morning. Might be onto a cure for that problem. I noticed a couple other things also after adding the ground wire. It looked like my headlights and dash lights were a little brighter than before. Also seemed like the engine ran smoother than yesterday. Need a couple guys without auto transmissions to add a ground to their alternator and see if they notice any improvements or if I'm seeing things. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites
 Share
Go to topic listing
×
×
  • Create New...