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Exaust Manifold?


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[TABLE=class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center][TR][TD=class: alt1, bgcolor: #FFFFFF]98 12V, what are the professional tips & tricks to install ex manifold gaskets? My #6 cyl bolts MIA, blowen exaust out the top back on to the fire wall. I can see a gasket back there, thou it's tweeked a little. Have a set of new ones. Turbo studs don't look that appealing eather? YA Thanks ALL.[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

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[TABLE=class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center][TR][TD=class: alt1, bgcolor: #FFFFFF]Ok, so I find out the #6 exaust port has the upper & lower bolts broke off flush with the head. Well I hope someone kicks me in the front teeth with steel toes before I drill, TRY easy outs that break off in the hole HO ya & then the #%^$# carbide harden steel drill bits break off tryen to get the %##%^&* easy outs, out. That #6 Ex port back by the fire wall, pretty hard to see much less work on. 8hrs later and a tourch ( that woud have saved me 6hrs) IMHO is the only way to get broke off bolts out of the head. Now I'm waiten on max to send me a Shiney NEW aftermarket exaust manifold with bolts that will not break off in the head... Oh and a high quality tap to break out all the slag left from the blow out of the tourch.[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]

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[TABLE=class: tborder, width: 100%, align: center] [TR] [TD=class: alt1, bgcolor: #FFFFFF] That #6 Ex port back by the fire wall, pretty hard to see much less work on. 8hrs later and a tourch ( that woud have saved me 6hrs) IMHO is the only way to get broke off bolts out of the head. [/TD] [/TR] [/TABLE]

Im lost - you torched the bolts out ?? ARP studs would be best to prevent from happening again I guess
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I used to find, Marine Engines with stainless exhaust manifold studs (Marine Exhausts are water jacketed). If a replacement manifold was required, I always salvaged these studs. Sometimes, they had steel nuts on the SS studs. The old school German mechanics who assembled our Acme Marine Hoist (really, that was the brand) used unpainted huge plain steel bolts to assemble the sections. I questioned them on it. They said Poor man's lock tite! There's nothing tighter than a rusted bolt. If ever disassembled, the bolts would be torched off & replaced anyway! They were all exposed flanges, so it made sense.

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Someone on here said a while back to soak them a while in penetrating oil and then get a hammer and hit the bolt, it shocks the rust bond so then it unscrews. I went out and tried it on a few of them after they said that and sure enough worked like a charm.

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Someone on here said a while back to soak them a while in penetrating oil and then get a hammer and hit the bolt, it shocks the rust bond so then it unscrews. I went out and tried it on a few of them after they said that and sure enough worked like a charm.

This works on rod end shafts also. If you can get a good safe whack or fifty at the side of the offending part where the tapered shaft goes through you can eventually distort the steel just enough to break the surface weld. This is the only way i've found to get tie rod ends out of some stuff thats been together for 30+ years. There are times I have to use the hammer method on bowen connections at work too... (big threaded connections used for wireline wellhead connections.)
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