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What type of rotor set up is this?


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I have read that it is very easy to replace the rotors on our trucks. The rotor is suppose to just slide on. Mine doesn't, it is held on by the nut and the stud assembly. Any one have any idea as to what the set up is for my rig? Is this from a 1 ton?post-198-138698189379_thumb.jpg

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2000 and newer are floating rotors. I believe the old ones are a bit rougher.

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2000 and newer are floating rotors. I believe the old ones are a bit rougher.

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Yea, I am going to have to pull the hub for sure! Is the castle nut a 1 11/16"? any tricks for removal of the hub? I see one potential problem: the height of my rotor from surfaced deck to the top of the bolting surface is 1 1/4". The new one is 1". I am worried that the caliper is going to rub on the rim. What do you guys think?

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As for the castle nut I'm pretty sure its 1 11/16 like you said. I'd have to run out to the shop and look but it locked up for the night already. As for the shaft is a splined shaft so the hub is going to slide off the shaft. But as for removing the hub you got to pull the wheel bearings too. Be awhile since I've done this... :think:

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I dun' remember the socket size, but I spend $25 on an impact socket just for the nut. It is a more uncommon size, I know that. You take the castle nut off and seperate the axle from the hub. Knock out the lug studs and the bearing assembly will seperate from the rotor.

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Got the job done! :woot:Broke a Craftsman breaker bar. Glad it is Lifetime guarantee! Put a torch to the castle nuts and no problem at all. Used the socket and extension trick on the backside, worked like a charm! By being a member on this site and reading everyone's tricks, it made the job easy! THANKS to EVERYONE in making this a great site! Now, does everyone have this spacer on their passenger side assembly? Has a 3.5 mm and 8376 stamped into it. I figure it must be to push the wheel out a little bit, maybe hitting the frame when cranking it hard? post-198-138698189417_thumb.jpg

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Yes, it was between the wheel and the hub. It was secured on the studs with the retainer that usually comes from the factory. I never noticed it before, because it was always flat against the hub. One other thing, it says on the ring "this side out". I remember in my earlier days, that they had to put some spacers in between the hub and wheel when you bought after market rims because the tire would rub. The auto makers changed the calipers or something. Can't remember the exact specifics of the problem. But, I do remember the talk was that the aftermarket rim sales were going to be non existent! We all know that didn't happen thou!

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Now, does everyone have this spacer on their passenger side assembly? Has a 3.5 mm and 8376 stamped into it. I figure it must be to push the wheel out a little bit, maybe hitting the frame when cranking it hard?

Thats strange. I had one of these on my truck too. Only ONE. I don't remember if it was passenger side or driver. I have not had any issue with my truck such as rubbing tires or anything. I dunno what is for. Maybe it was to compensate for steering? I will have to ask the auto guy when I get my A/C charged and see if he knows..
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Oh, I wish I remembered the reason..... Grrrr. I am OCD and it made sense.I think it was something like " since the track bar is NOT adjustable, near the final inspection, Dodge found too much variance in front axle location (relative to the body). (both the axle end of the track bar is welded and there fore has a tolerance, and the frame location being welded another tolerance, most body locations welded and toleranced...) they kept adding up to too much. It shouldn't have anything really to do with steering stops (the knuckle does that) but tires touching inner wheel well housing (or frame?)or something..... Sorry I didn't mark the explanation. While most trucks were the passenger side I think, there are some that were driver side. I think there were 2 or 3 thicknesses of spacer.HTHHag

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