Jump to content
  • Welcome Guest To Mopar1973Man.Com

    We are a Dodge Ram Cummins Turbo Diesel forum. We are very friendly and helpful group of Dodge Ram Cummins owners. We will try to keep your truck running the best we can and provide information for diagnostics, repairs and even guide you on the best replacement parts to use. 

     

    Registration is free. Registering on the site will provide access to many more things like...
     

    • Contribute to the Forum being able to ask questions and get support for your Dodge Ram Cummins.
    • Contribute to Article Database adding your ideas and suggestions.
    • Classified Ads posted by the members. Post up your used parts and vehicles.
    • Member Garage where you can proudly display your vehicles and modifications that you have done to them.
    • Download files, documents, and Quadzilla Adrenaline tunes for your truck.
    • 911 Support Network. We've got a group of members will to aid you if your truck breaks down on the road.
    • Reduced Advertisements displayed to you.

Sign in to follow this  
fire176969

Power steering/Brake booster issues

Recommended Posts

I recently had to replace my steering box due to a broken output shaft. Put a upgraded Borgeson steering box on the truck that I got used for a good price. Worked fine on the truck it came off of. Ever since the brake pedal has been really hard to push initially, then when it gets past the hard spot in the pedal, the brakes seem to almost lock up and toss you into the dash. The steering assist is almost non existant at idle. The assist goes away completely when using the brakes. Steering acts completely normal driving down the road but the brake problem is still present. Just installed a new Borgeson power steering pump on to replace the old one per their recommendation. No air in the system, currently waiting on a return e-mail/phone call from Borgeson and thought I would see if anyone else has ran into this issue before.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the brake part of it is there ABS or BRAKE light lit?Did you purge the system of old fluid before setting all back up?I just wondering if there is debris in the fluid that might of plugged a port or something. As for the brakes its sound like a ABS issue almost.. :shrug:

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

On the brake part of it is there ABS or BRAKE light lit? Did you purge the system of old fluid before setting all back up? I just wondering if there is debris in the fluid that might of plugged a port or something. As for the brakes its sound like a ABS issue almost.. :shrug:

No, there aren't any lights. Have flushed the system 3 times now not counting cleaning out the system while chnging the steering box. The brakes actually work great, it is more the pedal/booster/master cylinder that feels weird. It is like holding your foot on the brake pedal witht the truck off after you have purged the pressure from the accumulator, then starting the truck.

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fire,The hydro-boost is really pretty easy to rebuild. (if you want I can send you some pictures etc. on the rebuild) I have not done it on the dodge yet, but did it a couple times on the 6.5TD Suburbasaurus. Look for piratejack dot net. They had the best prices on kits, and seem to know them REALLY well. I think a call to them might help you out a bunch.My borgeson box works great, and since yours worked well earlier, I am betting some dirt got into the Hydroboost making the apply non-linear. GL HTHHag

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Well, thought I had it figured out. Got the kit from piratejack and rebuilt the booster. While it was apart I found the spool valve was sticking pretty badly. Got it all freed up and put back together and it worked good until the drive to work today. Had the loss of steering and the odd braking again. I'm really thinking it may be the steering box, does anyone know of any options for a steering box other than Borgeson?Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Fire,Glad the build went good for you. Sorry you are still having troubles.I hope someone will chime in, but other than the borgeson, there is only one other box that I can't quite remember the name... I swear it is like redhat or redneck or something like that.LOl it is Red head. Try them. It seems like some have had good success with them.Hag

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Does anyone happen to know where you can get parts for these steering boxes? I want to try replacing the output shaft in my original steering box but can't seem to find a parts source. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites
On the brake part of it is there ABS or BRAKE light lit?

Did you purge the system of old fluid before setting all back up?

I just wondering if there is debris in the fluid that might of plugged a port or something. As for the brakes its sound like a ABS issue almost.. :shrug:[/quote

my post from last night.. on our '00 3500 with no power steering and brakes...

Ours DOES have the abs/brake warning lite on. (been on since last pump replacement) 2 years or so.

Dealer said not to sweat it... we don't need abs anyways.. (hows that for commitment?)

After reading this thread... I wonder if I have a stuck valve too?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

When mine lost all steering and brake assist it was the relief valve in the pump stuck open. The valve that sticks now keeps the brakes locked up and on these systems the brakes are first priority for assistance so there is nothing left for the steering to use. I think there is a seal blown in my steering gear since it fine turning left but no assist and brake problems turning right.

Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well, so far everything works fine... right up to the point I REALLY need steering or brakes! ie; the start of a 90* corner... its not very fun to keep the revs up, one foot ready on the brake, and the other on the clutch... and one hand on the door handle for a last second egress... As long as the engine is running above 1500... everything is good.I was just hoping to find a flow chart to diagnose this, and not have to throw a bunch of unnescessary parts at it!doing a little searching and this is a fairly common problem.... ranging from what you said, a stuck valve, blown fuse, (abs lite) debris... etc. ...... one thing I did notice this fall, was the feed line from the pump to the booster was very hot. I always figure a hot line means there is too much flow going through it... a stuck valve allowing too much bypass?

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

well, so far everything works fine... right up to the point I REALLY need steering or brakes! ie; the start of a 90* corner... its not very fun to keep the revs up, one foot ready on the brake, and the other on the clutch... and one hand on the door handle for a last second egress... As long as the engine is running above 1500... everything is good. I was just hoping to find a flow chart to diagnose this, and not have to throw a bunch of unnescessary parts at it! doing a little searching and this is a fairly common problem.... ranging from what you said, a stuck valve, blown fuse, (abs lite) debris... etc. ...... one thing I did notice this fall, was the feed line from the pump to the booster was very hot. I always figure a hot line means there is too much flow going through it... a stuck valve allowing too much bypass?

Hot line is excessive pressure. Excessive flow would actually keep the line relatively cool. When my brakes apply themselves i can grab the line from the pump to the booster and burn my hand Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

I just had a tractor last week, with an extremely hot line. It was caused by a bad spool valve internally. The hydraulic pump NEVER shut down from it's max output. That particular line 'buzzed' the whole time the tractor was running... even when the valve was 'closed'.... Lets just say it took out the pump too! I've been taught that when a liquid is forced through a small area, it creates heat. A lot of heat...and that heat just goes back to a tiny little reservoir to start all over again. Internal leaks on all my powershift tractors are the death knoll.... anyone have a high pressure washer? what happens when you don't trigger the wand after about 30 seconds? It causes the thermal overload to dump some water out of the head of the pump... and that little burp is quite warm! otherwise it just keeps recyling the water through the head and bypass valve until needed at the wand.I have a suspicion that yes my pump is shot, or close to it, and my boost o rings are all hogged out from the heat circulating though it like crazy...I'll have a good idea tomorrow!

Share this post


Link to post
Share on other sites

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
Sign in to follow this  



×