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Anyone know what kind of o ring is in the return T? I tightened it up and it looks like part of a rubber o ring comming through where the line goes in. Any other places other than dealer. Dont have one near me and im hosing down the undercarrige with 4.59 diesel. Any other ideas on a fix or replacement?

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I'm confused as to what "T" you're referring to in the fuel return line...I don't recall having a "T" in my 2001's return line. Mine was just a banjo bolt with two washers (one on each side of the fitting)

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Hardware store... They should carry o-rings for plumbing applications. It might not be the absolute right o-ring but beatter than nothing. As for cheap and right you can get a box of o-rings from Harbor freight for like 5 to 7 bucks.

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Cowtipper,How are you getting to it? I noticed I have diesel on the bell housing and transmission, but presently using that to clean the ATF that the transfer case is spewing out. (TC is winning by the way, about 1 qt per 100 miles.... bed, rear diff, trailers will never rust..... ever...lol... people don't tailgate long either!!!)I took a peek and still trying to figure out how to touch it, let alone get tools on it?Thanks for your input!!Hag

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I'm taking out the two bolts that hold the dipstick in place and swinging it out of the way. Then getting on top of the motor and getting at it from the top. It would be easier with the dipstick out but I can't seem to get mine out.

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Update. Quarter inch vacuum hose cut to length. Exact match to the originals. Cost me thirty cents for a half foot.

Food for thought... May want to consider swapping the vacuum hose for fuel hose.

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Anyone have any tips or tricks for getting at the banjo fitting on the back of the head? Mine is leaking BAD.

It was not fun but I was able to get to mine with a medium length wrench and some scratches on my arm. I forgot to check the last time I had the cover off to adjust the valves but it might be easier going from the top with the valve cover off. Sent from my DROID BIONIC using Tapatalk 2
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I loosen the dipstick and swing it out of the way. Then just lay on up on the valve cover and act like your giving it a big old bear hug. Your left arm can get in around the turbo, and the right goes in above the return tee. Go in with the wrench in hand on the left, I think i used a 11/16 cant remember. With your finger through the box end you can feel it to toghten it. Personally i gave up on the p.o.s. and screwed in a fitting with a pushlock and removed all the leaking crap. I used a 5/16 pushlock "T" and fuel hose and hoseclamped it to the back of the head line, pump return line and the main return to the tank. Hasnt leaked yet.

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Yes, banjo is gone, I cannot remember the exact sizes, i did it in my race shop and used some fittings for a sprint car motor fuel system. The one for the banjo fitting was a npt to i think a dash two fitting, then a dash two with a pushlock ninety. Its two fittings, then a 5/16 fuel hose to the T. the T is a 5/16 pushlock T .

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I was thinking of replacing the T fitting with a regular compression fitting. I just bought the new seals from the dealer for $40. :spend:

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I thought of that too. But the stock setup has flared ends, you would have to get a close tubing cutter in there or remove the setup and cut them off. All i know is mine hasnt leaked since. I fought with those stock fittings all the while spreading four buck diesel down the road. I finally took them off and put them in a bag of rocks with my raptor pump and dumped them in the columbia river.:hyper:

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5 months ago my truck was dumping fuel. the tee had come loose and lost the o ring went to dodge looked at a new one then bought small length of fuel line cut it and used it as o ring bushing no leaks.

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