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Rogan

Coolant Temp sensor with factory gauge

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My truck's manufacture date is 1/97. I can't tell if it's a 1-terminal or 2-terminal connector without pulling it out or whatever. I need to replace mine (gauge lays on coldest point, SG2 says -40*F..)

Genos has a 1-wire (gray) for $55, and a 2-wire (black) for $45. Judging by the pictures, they're both the same big threads.

'89-'97

Posted Image

'98

Posted Image

RockAuto has a 1-wire (gray) for $47, and a 2-wire (black) for $28. Judging by the pictures:

the gray one is big-threaded with teflon type sealant.

http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=40546&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/SMP/TS382_PRIMARY.jpg

The 2-wire is smaller threads and o-ring sealer..

http://www.rockauto.com/getimage/getimage.php?imagekey=320376&imageurl=http%3A//www.rockauto.com/info/SMP/TS420_PRIMARY.jpg

I don't know which I need to buy.. I "ASSuME" it's the gray one?

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1 wire sensor on my '97 12vThe '01 24v motor had 2 terminal sensors in all locations. I couldn't get them to work at all (probably different resistance profile since I'd bet the ISB ecu is looking for voltage versus 5v supply and the 12v PCM is looking for resistance from ground)If anyone knows actual specs on these sensors I'd LOVE to know. I've been driving without a temp gauge for 2 years now. No super simple fix since the threads in the 24v head wouldn't take a 12v sensor.

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1 wire sensor on my '97 12v The '01 24v motor had 2 terminal sensors in all locations. I couldn't get them to work at all (probably different resistance profile since I'd bet the ISB ecu is looking for voltage versus 5v supply and the 12v PCM is looking for resistance from ground) If anyone knows actual specs on these sensors I'd LOVE to know. I've been driving without a temp gauge for 2 years now. No super simple fix since the threads in the 24v head wouldn't take a 12v sensor.

I would think that a simple, make up of brass fittings would, work for this. Instead of necking down your wanting to go bigger. Screw in a short threaded pipe into the head and a reducer fitting screwed to the short pipe. Failing that drill and tap the head for the bigger sensor, using grease and a magnet to catch most of the filings.

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dammit.. i just ordered the OE style sensor... $53 del.

I may order the Isspro mech. CTG and a steering column pod, though..

- - - Updated - - -

So here's a crazy question.. In looking at the '97 wiring diagrams, it shows:

VIO/YEL wire from the single-pinned CTS to Connector B-C2-pin7.

Where is the heck is the SG2 reading the -40*F CTS from (M73M)???

I be cornfuzed..

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My 97' uses the 1 wire as well. The resistance goes up as temp goes down. If you unplug it, obviously there is no connection but the computer interprets it as max resistance or -40F..I got a digital gauge and love it. After the initial digital EGT gauge, I have been slowly converting everything to digital. Nothing like an exact number.

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How in the **** do you get this mfer out?? I can barely touch it, let alone get a socket or wrench on it??From the Galaxy S3

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That mechanical gauge will NOT fit n a column mount, its a 2&5/8 gauge and the standard gauges are 2&5/16 or something.

52mm From the Galaxy S3

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How in the **** do you get this mfer out?? I can barely touch it, let alone get a socket or wrench on it?? From the Galaxy S3

Deep well socket and a bunch of extensions. The ratchet will be close to the master cylinder.
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I'll have to try this again, when it stops raining...On the plus side, I must've bumped something... My tach now works consistently.. :hyper:

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Where u guys putting your aftermarket temp sensor on the 12 valves? And what's this for?[ATTACH]4498[/ATTACH]From the Galaxy S3

post-10339-138698192343_thumb.jpg

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I put it in the same hole the OEM one goes in.. OEM one is about worthless anyways. That little hose is an air bleed for the coolant in the engine. It has a weight in it that drops when there is air but floats and plugs the hole when there is coolant. If you squeeze and let off the top radiator hose you will hear the weight going up and down.

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I put it in the same hole the OEM one goes in.. OEM one is about worthless anyways. That little hose is an air bleed for the coolant in the engine. It has a weight in it that drops when there is air but floats and plugs the hole when there is coolant. If you squeeze and let off the top radiator hose you will hear the weight going up and down.

Thanks. I was hoping to not have to pull that one as I can't get to it, let alone OUT.. From the Galaxy S3

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You could put a T into the heater core lines. But other than that, there really isn't anything.. The 12V's don't have that coolant port between exhaust pairs like the 24V does.

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so I gave it another go today... no dice.. that mofo'n sensor is denying me retrieval...

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LMFAO!Bear in mind, ryan.. I've broken my neck and had 3 vertibrae fused back together. I've also no feeling in my hands due to nerve damage.. so, on one side of the coin, I can't hardly feel what I'm doing.On the other side, High muscular strain causes severe pain throughout my neck. If not the awkwardness of getting to the actual sensor doesn't hurt, the yanking/pulling on the ratchet definitely does ;):whistle:

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And you did all that damage while trying to get that sensor out? Dannnggg. I can't remember exactly where it is (haven't seen under my hood in months) but I think maybe you could get at it better if you took the fuel filter housing out. You don't have to take the fuel filter mount off just the filter/housing so maybe you can stick your arm in there.

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Ok, it's done. YAY ME! lolI got the CTS swapped this past weekend. Actually, Ryan, it was quite simple.. sorta.. LOLI disconnected the 3 pcm connectors, the AC drier sensor connector, pulled the harness off the cowling, and threw it over the driver's side fender..Then I removed the intake horn thingy..Then I pulled (2) 15mm bolts and removed the LR engine lift hook. BOOM! there was the CTS, in the wide open. The intake horn had to come off merely for ratchet swing clearance..

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