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Zukifreek

Air preheat grid coming on with engine warm after Comp box install???

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So I just got my used Edge comp box installed and took it for a test drive. I haven't put the stealth cover on yet so pump isn't tapped yet. When I got home after test drive I shut it off and restarted it. The voltage was dropping down and then coming back so I got a testlight and checked the heater grids. It was turning them on one at a time for at least a minute or longer. The engine was fully warmed up and at halfway on the gauge. Is this normal? I have never really paid attention to it before. Could the Comp box be causing this? Where is the Air intake temp sensor located? I may clean or replace it.

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Air intake temperature sensor is at the back of the head on the driver side. Check it by using a live data tool before replacing. Like me I've no longer using my IAT sensor at all I've got my IAT stuff with a resistor forces to 143*F constant. But even with 195*F coolant the grid heaters come on too. Secret: There is a battery temperature sensor that feeds the PCM another temp which might be fed to the ECM for other reasons.

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Thanks Mopar1973man. I bet the other sensor is seeing a cool enough temp to kick the grids on briefly. What ohm resistance did you plug in your IAT sensor? One more question, the Comp manual didn't really say but when you push the grey button and turn the LEDs off is that stock mode? Even on level 1 and 2 it feels way more powerful than the D box did. Can't wait to tap the pump tomorrow night and try 3 and 4.....OK I'll try 5 too but I'm not wanting to rebuild my auto :)

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Thanks Mopar1973man. I bet the other sensor is seeing a cool enough temp to kick the grids on briefly. What ohm resistance did you plug in your IAT sensor? One more question, the Comp manual didn't really say but when you push the grey button and turn the LEDs off is that stock mode? Even on level 1 and 2 it feels way more powerful than the D box did. Can't wait to tap the pump tomorrow night and try 3 and 4.....OK I'll try 5 too but I'm not wanting to rebuild my auto :)

I'm using a rheostat for adjustable tuning but you could go between 100-143*F...

[TABLE]

[TR]

[TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center]Temperature[/TD]

[TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center] Resistance[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 13°F[/TD]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 56K ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center] 26°F[/TD]

[TD=align: center] 39K ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 87ºF[/TD]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 7.4K ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 91°F[/TD]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 6.8K ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 100°F[/TD]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 5.6k ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 107°F[/TD]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.7K ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 112°F[/TD]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.3K ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 119ºF[/TD]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.6K ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 123ºF[/TD]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.3K ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 127ºF[/TD]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.0K ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 132ºF[/TD]

[TD=width: 50%, align: center] 2.7k ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center] 143°F[/TD]

[TD=align: center] 2.2k ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center] 148°F[/TD]

[TD=align: center] 2.0k ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center] 163°F[/TD]

[TD=align: center] 1.5k ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center] 173°F[/TD]

[TD=align: center] 1.2k ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[TR]

[TD=align: center] 184°F[/TD]

[TD=align: center] 1.0k ohms[/TD]

[/TR]

[/TABLE]

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