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id guess somebody with a john deere combine said i bet i can cram that under the hood of my 12 valve :lmao:i personaly like the 6637( lot of guys use them on power strokes) because its not so close to the hood, i also made a stainless heat shield to keep from sucking hot air off the turbo......IMHO the the heat shield is a must, hot air is not efficient air.

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I've ran the numbers and had a temperature probe on the air filter and the highest I saw on a hill pulling the trailer at 100F was 20 over (120F). After plugging in all the numbers, you end up with a 0.5% gain in air mass in the cylinder when compared with what a cold air intake would provide (100F air). As a reference, 0F - 100F ambient changes air mass by 21%... In other words, because of the intercooler, the cold air intake and heat shield stuff is null and void. You will never notice a 0.5% increase plus that is only under high load conditions, most of the time I was only seeing a 10-15F rise and in the winter I saw almost no rise over ambient. Even if the temp was 50F over ambient, it's still only 1.5% more air mass. It's all because of the intercooler. I know a lot of guys run heat shields and stuff and I'm not trying to say they are bad I'm just throwing the numbers out there. There could be something to how much boost is produced with hot air vs. colder air within the turbo. But turbo efficiency has more to do with it than anything IMO.

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I've ran the numbers and had a temperature probe on the air filter and the highest I saw on a hill pulling the trailer at 100F was 20 over (120F). After plugging in all the numbers, you end up with a 0.5% gain in air mass in the cylinder when compared with what a cold air intake would provide (100F air). As a reference, 0F - 100F ambient changes air mass by 21%... In other words, because of the intercooler, the cold air intake and heat shield stuff is null and void. You will never notice a 0.5% increase plus that is only under high load conditions, most of the time I was only seeing a 10-15F rise and in the winter I saw almost no rise over ambient. Even if the temp was 50F over ambient, it's still only 1.5% more air mass. It's all because of the intercooler. I know a lot of guys run heat shields and stuff and I'm not trying to say they are bad I'm just throwing the numbers out there. There could be something to how much boost is produced with hot air vs. colder air within the turbo. But turbo efficiency has more to do with it than anything IMO.

To go along with ISX statement...

http-~~-//www.youtube.com/watch?v=nf7ladNL7V8

So the whole cold air intake comes to a rest now. What ISX is getting at is the intake temperature after the intercooler. It all up to the intercooler not the cold air intake.
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Can't believe I procrastinated this long (since starting this thread) but I finally got it and between removing the old air box and installing the BHAF...oh, and strapping it down with bungie cord took all of about 5 minutes. So, I get that the heat from the turbo won't affect performance but will it melt the filter? And will the tube work its way off the filter neck without the stiffeners you guys were talking about?

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So, I get that the heat from the turbo won't affect performance

No. Like the video shown a few post back the outlet of the turbo is going to be 300-400*F before the intercooler regardless of the input temperature. So the intercooler is more important than worry about a cold air intake. Like ISX said back at... http://forum.mopar1973man.com/threads/6736-BHAF?p=69498#post69498

but will it melt the filter?

No.

And will the tube work its way off the filter neck without the stiffeners you guys were talking about?

You can add a piece of 4" exhaust pipe in the neck to stiffen the plastic up more. But in all the miles of using a BHAF still no issues with it popping off.
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One possible problem with the stock air box is it starts to distort over time and does not completely seal out dirty air. I think it's coming from the front side of the air box because it looks like it doesn't compress down enough to the stock filter gasket. That is on the front plastic hook side not the metal clips.I say this because the fins on my turbo are just starting to show some fine dust and dirt.Could this be true?

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Could be. I was meaning to show you guys this. My brother came across a stock powerstroke that had a collapsed air filter for 30,000 miles so it was letting every piece of dirt in.

Here is the result. The turbo is actually fine, but you can see the leading edges look all cavitated which I'm guessing was the dirt's fault. The turbo has 300,000 miles on it, same as my turbo did and I don't have any wear like this.

All the leading edges look the same, isn't one in particular or anything.

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One possible problem with the stock air box is it starts to distort over time and does not completely seal out dirty air. I think it's coming from the front side of the air box because it looks like it doesn't compress down enough to the stock filter gasket. That is on the front plastic hook side not the metal clips.

I say this because the fins on my turbo are just starting to show some fine dust and dirt.

Could this be true?

I think I'm having the same problem, and I'm noticing some dirt too. 'Bout time for a BHAF. :cool:

(not a very detailed picture)

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My turbo fins are a bit dirtier than yours. I think all plastics tend to distort with heat or age. For a temporary fix I thought about using some small wood clamps to squeeze the top down tighter against the gasket. Bad deal though if the clamps don't stay, fall off and damage a rocker panel or a neighboring car.

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My turbo fins are a bit dirtier than yours. I think all plastics tend to distort with heat or age. For a temporary fix I thought about using some small wood clamps to squeeze the top down tighter against the gasket. Bad deal though if the clamps don't stay, fall off and damage a rocker panel or a neighboring car.

Have you tried a really heavy duty zip tie?
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So far most all performance air filters I've seen either dry media, washable, oiled, etc. They all seem to be a dirtier filter. What good is it to have a better flowing filter that flows more dirt than a slightly more restrictive filter that is way oversized for the job and doesn't pass dirt like the performance filters do... :whistle:

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I have never looked at oiled filters for trucks. Sure does keep my dirt bike happy. They use just foam filters you could blow through and my dad went through the engine last year and said it was the cleanest thing he had ever seen. I use a 40:1 mix of 2 stroke oil so there isn't much oil to build up on anything, but there sure wasn't any dirt in there. But the air filter probably has as much surface area as our stock filters and it's only 300cc so I assume it wouldn't be viable on a truck, though I'd like to see the actual oiled filters people are using. Would be nice to be able to clean them as easily as I clean my dirtbikes filter.

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I have never looked at oiled filters for trucks. Sure does keep my dirt bike happy. They use just foam filters you could blow through and my dad went through the engine last year and said it was the cleanest thing he had ever seen. I use a 40:1 mix of 2 stroke oil so there isn't much oil to build up on anything, but there sure wasn't any dirt in there. But the air filter probably has as much surface area as our stock filters and it's only 300cc so I assume it wouldn't be viable on a truck, though I'd like to see the actual oiled filters people are using. Would be nice to be able to clean them as easily as I clean my dirtbikes filter.

Kind of like my ATV its a oiled foam filter. But it uses a special spray on oil that is extremely sticky. I picked up a can of it from my local Honda dealer and use it when I do my spring time maintenance. But there is a difference between a naturally aspirated 300cc motorcycle or 420cc ATV. compared to the air volume of a turbo charged Cummins Diesel. You might want to plugin in the spec to one of your spreadsheets and look at the volume difference. This is why the oiled filter work fine for little gasoline engine but not for turbo charged diesels. :whistle:
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I agree with mike on this... I never seen an oiled element on an ag tractor. Most will use a filter within a filter.. but they are dry. And these machines are in the dirtiest environment known to man! (sometimes I'll get almost 10 pounds of dirt blowed out each day) I think the combinations of an oil, and a little dust would 'cake' pretty easy, and it would be similar to throwing a plastic bag around the filter... Unless you washed very very often!

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Or just get a BHAF. :smart:

I got one sittin' on the shelf, 5 mos. now:doh:. Including a 4 inch ABS coupling, (fits right in there). Just lazy as heck on the weekends. Thanks for the zip tie idea. I have some of those honkers:)
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So far most all performance air filters I've seen either dry media, washable, oiled, etc. They all seem to be a dirtier filter. What good is it to have a better flowing filter that flows more dirt than a slightly more restrictive filter that is way oversized for the job and doesn't pass dirt like the performance filters do... :whistle:

i think the BHAF with a surface area almost twice to three times that of the stock filter size would flow the same amount of air or more than a stock size oiled filter. and because of the greater surface area on a BHAF the negative pressure exerted on dirt particles would be far less. the air velocity going through the BHAF media would be far less per square inch. so the bigger the better!
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  • 2 weeks later...

Got my BHAF on, fellas:

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Here's the cheesy bracket I made for it:

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Please excuse the wire -- I will soon upgrade to a bungee cord. :lol:

BTW, this is a 6637 filter. I ordered it from FleetFilter for $47, after shipping! They're located in Brenham, Texas, about 1 1/2 hours west of me, so the filter was here the day after I ordered it. :thumb1:

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Thanks for the idea because your install leaves enough room for a battery maintainer underneath the filter.:hyper:Bring that truck to my place and I'll clean those battery posts for you. No charge:)

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Thanks for the idea because your install leaves enough room for a battery maintainer underneath the filter.:hyper: Bring that truck to my place and I'll clean those battery posts for you. No charge:)

You mean the grease? It's there on purpose.

I use a 6637 filter too. Seems to work great.. Willm, the bracket looks like it works.

It's a little flimsy, but not bad. It's just something I threw together this morning, so like you said, it works. :thumb1:
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