ram350002 Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 Has anyone tried a stacked rotary switch similar to the switch on the bottom of pg 3 of the attached link to get everything into one switch with multiple positions for each of the functions/combinations needed to get both the High Idle & MPG Foolers into one pkg? I haven't sat down and sketched it out to see if it's even possible, just thought I'd check before playing it all out. It would require more then one of each resistor but they're cheap and would reduce the wires through the firewall to 4 and just one switch. No idea how many "stacks" the switch would need or number of "load" terminals for all the possible combinations involved but I'll work that out. It is more complicated then the original design but would result in a cleaner install. Would definitely need an index list for all the positions. Input on the concept would be greatly appreciated. http://www.alliedelec.com/images/products/datasheets/bm/NKK_SWITCHES_OF_AMERICA/70192244.pdf Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
flagmanruss Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 I bought a rotary switch from Radio Shack, was going to put multiple resitors on it for MPG / IAT fooler. Got the one toggle installed, never went back, yet! I start with the grids on for easy starting (wife uses truck sometimes too)... switch off once running. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISX Posted December 3, 2012 Share Posted December 3, 2012 I'd really like to see a video of a cold start then the sound when hitting the switch.. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
cowtipper Posted December 11, 2012 Share Posted December 11, 2012 Anyone got a schematic of their toggle setups? Or how they wired in the IAT fooler? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owner Mopar1973Man Posted December 11, 2012 Owner Share Posted December 11, 2012 I'll have to draw up the schematic in my head on how to include the MPG fooler with the high idle setup. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNKEBIT Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 O.k. I am diesel stupid. lol Been a mechanic for 30+ years and this thread i cannot figure out. Is this thread about trying to make the engine idle higher on warmup?Mitch:banghead: Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owner Mopar1973Man Posted December 15, 2012 Owner Share Posted December 15, 2012 It to fool the ECM that the conditions are colder than typical and force the ECM to start the high idle software for faster warm up times. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNKEBIT Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 It to fool the ECM that the conditions are colder than typical and force the ECM to start the high idle software for faster warm up times. WOOHOO!!!! I was right. So, does this benefit work also in colder weather? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISX Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 WOOHOO!!!! I was right. So, does this benefit work also in colder weather? The engine has set points where it goes into high idle or 3 cyl high idle. It does this automatically if the IAT sensor detects such frigid conditions. The fooler reroutes the wires through a resistor to simulate the cold conditions, so it will work the same be it -100F or 200F, it replaces the sensor completely.. The resistors for the 3 cyl high idle simulates 10F or something and the high idle simulates 30F or something based on their resistance. The MPG fooler simulates a HOTTER temp than it really is. The 24V bases it's timing on a number of variables and the IAT is one of them. When it is cold it seems to put the engine into a really advanced mode and this seems to have a negative effect on mileage. The consensus is that it does this for emissions.. By fooling it into thinking it is summer, it stays put using a better timing table which is more efficient. His writeup on it: http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/51-high-idle-mod Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owner Mopar1973Man Posted December 15, 2012 Owner Share Posted December 15, 2012 For MPG's the average range of high point is 100-140*F IATFor high 6 cylinder you need 32*F in the manifold with grid heaters active. Like ISX got a video measuring his grid heater and it con produce 400-500*F easy. So reaching 32*F on a cold morning can be tough hence the fooler. Then 3 Cylinder is set at 15*F with grid heaters running. So it got to be really cold to reach this one. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISX Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 Have you tested it at 160 170 180? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owner Mopar1973Man Posted December 15, 2012 Owner Share Posted December 15, 2012 No. That is well above the normal spectrum for sure. But I could twist it up and see what happens. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISX Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 No. That is well above the normal spectrum for sure. But I could twist it up and see what happens. Well yeah the normal spectrum is also under 12V MPG....get out of the norm Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNKEBIT Posted December 15, 2012 Share Posted December 15, 2012 So basically, I should do this mod to help fuel mileage? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISX Posted December 16, 2012 Share Posted December 16, 2012 So basically, I should do this mod to help fuel mileage? The high temperature IAT fooler is ONLY intended for that. It serves no other purpose. Maybe some guys will list their gains they personally saw. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNKEBIT Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 So, to do this I just need to unplug the IAT and plug in selected resistor? And this blocks the heater from coming on? So I need a switch to use the warmer and then switch to resistor? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
ISX Posted December 17, 2012 Share Posted December 17, 2012 If you are just putting in the 100-140F resistor then you would use the regular sensor for cold starting since the engine will NOT use the grid heater if it thinks it's 100F+ outside. Ideally you would run it regular for a couple minutes and then switch it over to the resistor. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Owner Mopar1973Man Posted December 18, 2012 Owner Share Posted December 18, 2012 ISX is correct. So you would build a ECT fooler but with IAT plugs and the change the resistor to the value you selected. So then you leave the switch normal IAT for start but once the engine is started and ran for a short period you can flip on the fooler. Now If you happen to attempt to start the truck with the fooler enabled then you will not get grid heater. Even if you turn the key off and the fooler off it will still hang on the previous value for quit a bit. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
SNKEBIT Posted December 18, 2012 Share Posted December 18, 2012 Thanks! Sounds simple enuff!!! I will build me a fooler! Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
safn1949 Posted December 19, 2012 Share Posted December 19, 2012 Just a thought....why couldn't I use a manual idle cable. Like a choke cable just to get high idle,as you can see I have too much time on my hands here.I also saw a plug and play 3 speed idle box,don't know if it will work on the cummins yet. Gonna call and ask this week if I remember. Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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