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No Codes but will surge a little on steady hwy speeds or up hills Please Help!!!


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As you are driving. You may have to tape the vm to windshield or something. If it fluctuates then maybe the APPS is bad. If not, maybe the vp44.

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People that have a scan gauge can see the values for the tps on their gauge. The values will go up as you press the pedal. So if the truck surges and there is no corresponding increase on the tps values then the apps is not causing the surge.

Will it be same wire on APPS that you use to set initial voltage on Timbos APPS. Because if so my BD exhaust break is hooked to it and it's under my steering wheel panel. than i can just hook my VM to that wire and have it inside the cab. Shitty thing is it doesn't act up so much without a trailer, and my trailer is stuck in a back yard. Plus trailer by it self doesn't weight enough to cause my truck to jerk but anyway good idea Thanks. Can I also maybe test my VP the same way by hooking VM to it in some place?:think:
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I also have surging when driving down the road, its been doing this for the past 2 years. My truck has everything in my sig. Currently, after using cruise, it now idles high, about 1000-1200 RPM. It won't go down any lower unless you shut the truck off.

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I also have surging when driving down the road, its been doing this for the past 2 years. My truck has everything in my sig. Currently, after using cruise, it now idles high, about 1000-1200 RPM. It won't go down any lower unless you shut the truck off.

I also had this exact problem when my apps died.
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On the pulse monitor you should be able to monitor throttle postion, it will give you a percentage read out. Did you ever take the quad off completely and try it yet.

I onlytried it with harness unplugged from qwadzilla and map sensor hooked up tofactory wiring not through qwadzilla wiring. But haven’t tried it with qwad completelyremoved. I read some instructions and it says when need to jump another vehicleunplug main harness to qwad and reconnect map sensor through factory connector. I hopeI'm explaining this correct, getting confused myself already. But yes I want tounhook qwad all together from all of the wires and pull something that way andsee what happens. So if I monitor through pulse2 percentage will I see it changeor something, never went to that option before. And all that adjustment you cando on it how the hell do I know what to adjust it too? If I had analog gauges Icould calibrate my qwad to them ? Thanks for help if I made any since.

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Yes it is the same wire you used to set the timbo apps. I don't know of anyway to test the vp44. Pretty much if you can't find anything else wrong then it's probably to vp44. It sounds like the vp44 to me.

So Iyou think it's vp, would you guess mechanical or electrical failure? and why am I not having any codes is my ecm bad or ? just brain storming.:think:
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You may not have any codes because the problem isn't bad enough to set one yet. I'm not saying I know if it is the vp44. I'm just thinking it sounds like it could be. I would really exhaust all other avenues first.

 

Yeah, I've been trying to eliminate some of them including all of my grounds and got my rockerpanel trim piece off and pulled carpet up following some wires and didn'trealize how bad my floor had rusted out about 6 inches in :wow:. I always washed the truck really good after winter and touched up paint on undercarriage. I guess that’s why they say these engines will outlast the body. This new steel they use really suck, seems like no meter how well you take care of something, it just falls apart. Hopefully I get time soon totake it on hwy with trailer and see how it does after going through some of the grounds. And I'll have my fluke hooked to apps wire to see if it bounces at the same time it acts up, and if not then I'll be getting ready for VP. This time instead of easing out of problem I'll try to keep it in that spot as long as Ican and see if it throws a code.

Edited by Dieselfuture
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  • 1 month later...

A littlel update, just went on a trip 300 ml, redid my grounds and reset apps, also did not use any power service just straight 2cycle. had fluke volt meter on apps. This time it surged very little and only few times nothing bad as it was last time i droveit. volt meter did not jump at all when surged, so i dont belive it's apps, and not using any ps in fuel seemed to help also. at this point not sure if it was power service causing this surge or some grounds that i added or the apps that i reset but defenetly ran 100% better.

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Have you checked the ground wires under the driverside headlight? I haven't seen any of them cause your issues but there are a lot of wires grounded at the same point and had one truck doing some really weird things and thats where the problem ended up being.

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Have you checked the ground wires under the driverside headlight? I haven't seen any of them cause your issues but there are a lot of wires grounded at the same point and had one truck doing some really weird things and thats where the problem ended up being.

Yes I did seen them grounds and took them off, cleaned, put some dielectric grease, sanded everything, on all of the wires that I toched. I realy think not using Power Service helped, but then again lots of people use that stuff and don't have problems that I had. :think: But I'm happy that it ran better this time, hopefuly I'm on the right track. I also thing adding 2 grounds had to help some too. but if it surges again I will hold it at that spot as long as I can to hopefuly throw a code. Planning on going to Canada somtime and don't want to get stranded up there, that would be lots of money to get towed back:wow:

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I was also thinking what if it was an Injector that sticks once in a while, how will i know? will it throw a code or do i have to take them out and test them?

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Ok. Simple rule of thumb for sensors if a sensor is truly failed there will be a error code instantly at the very moment the sensor fails. If a sensor fails within normal operational secs then the code will NOT be present but normal a live data tool like ScanGauge II or similar will spot that sensor(s) that are out of specs.As for fuel additive never mix products together. 2 cycle oil and PS are backwards to either other. 2 Cycle oil is a cetane REDUCER and lubricity INCREASER where PS is a catane BOOSTER and a injector cleaner (lubricity REDUCER) High cetane typically reduces MPG because of the lower BTU's and short burn rate of fuel. Where low cetane fuels tend to burn much slower push longer and high BTU content.When testing for electronics failure it always best to completely unhook addon devices. Remember the Quad communicates on the CANBUS. So all connections should be returned to stock for proper testing.

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  • 5 months later...

2 yrs ago I had my bands adjusted and after that I had a terrible surge. I figured he must have really jacked it up, but before I had the shop do it, I spoke with the tech and he sounded very knowledgeable in what he was doing. So the surging continued intermittenly. I finally got around to checking all the grounds and low and behold the cables on the neg battery posts were so loose I could turn them with 2 fingers. So I tightened them up good and the surge went away. I figured he trans tech must have removed the cables to work on the truck and didn't get them tight enough.

About a yr goes by and it starts surging again and it is 2013 in early fall. I check the neg battery cables again but they are still tight. By this time my batteries are 7 yrs old and my truck has 290,000 miles on it. Batteries were weak turning the engine over when the temperature was getting low, so I replaced the batteries with new ones. Once I did this the surge went away. I tested the old batteries and they had about 330 CA's in them.

On a side note I just replaced the original alternator last week.

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Since your truck is a 6spd, your cruise control is electronic. Take the truck out and see if it does the same surging with the cruise control set at the offending speed.If the surge goes away, the APPS is on the way out. Every 01-02 6spd truck I have run across doing this has been the same thing, surge goes away when on cruise, APPS is on the way out.At this point, it probably won't throw a code either so it makes it a challenge to diagnose.Had it happen a couple of times to myself, been there.Hope it helps,Jeff

 

My 01 is vacuum operated and I also have a 6 spd. How does that work?

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It works by the alternator/generator (whichever it is) pulls energy off the engine to charge the batteries, the larger the drain the more draw.Reason for the surging is the weak batteries show charged then show need to charge alternately.This causes some of the energy to surge into the alternator and batteries rather than the drive train.This is a large part why it is so hard to diagnose!!Kinda like when you turn on the TV or microwave and your lights dim for a second. Your foot does not compensate for this and due to the fact that the engine is not at an idle neither does the ECM.It is highly Important to check electrical connections to the batteries and the alternator to insure a good connection otherwise this may cause failure in one or all of them.

Edited by eddielee
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  • 3 months later...

Bringing this thread back to life as I don't like how some of them end with no solution. Put reman 60hp injectors from DAP and it seems that it took care of problem. After 4 years of this I hope it is finally fixed. I will be pulling a lot more soon and will update this in definite. Thank you all for your help!

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  • 5 months later...

Ok this is pissing me of now, from last update I thought I cured problem with these 60hp injectors from DAP and just today coming home with a truck I just bought and trailer maybe 8-9k total pulling weight surging problem came back :( . Not sure if injectors craped out or it was never injectors in first place. I might just fix up this 12 valve I just got and kick vp44 truck down the road. Frustrated. At least if I had codes saying bad vp I'd buy one tomorrow but don't want to throw money away like I just did on injectors, plus my old ones were better for power an mpg, I seem to only get 10-12mpg now with 60hp and was getting 12-14 with old ones, towing.

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Is your tach still bouncing like you talked about before? I would start with a new one. Also did you ever get around to removing the quad 100% like every connection so you are back to stock? You mentioned the exhaust brake hooks into the apps as well?? Might try removing that wiring too. 

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Is your tach still bouncing like you talked about before? I would start with a new one. Also did you ever get around to removing the quad 100% like every connection so you are back to stock? You mentioned the exhaust brake hooks into the apps as well?? Might try removing that wiring too.

Tach does bounce a little, (start with new tech?) I did unplug everything had to do with quad and the miss was still there just more faint, I haven't messed with EB but might give it a try. Thanks.
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