ISX: Wanna come to Virginia for a weekend?

[Rogan]

i know of the plunger thinga-mabob that you push in/can push in when the rotation is in a certain position, but aside from that, I don't know how to verify timing..

[ISX]

Hmmmm, you can do the drop valve method of finding TDC if you have a dial indicator. But if you don't have the flywheel gear whatchamacallit then I wouldn't suggest it. Engine moves wayyy too much with the alternator nut. You could use the timing gear pin but that things the biggest PITA ever and I'll be damned if I am going to advise anyone else to use it. Hmmmmm one very interesting thing to do would be for me (since I know absolute TDC) to set my valves at 10/20 then measure the distance down or up that it takes before the engine gets to TDC. I would think all cams in these are the same so I would think it would work. Question is, do you have a dial indicator haha. I guess you could lay a straight edge on the adjacent valve cover and get a measuring tape and measure down

[Rogan]

no, i don't have one. and for some strange reason, I don't think the straight-edge + tape measure would suffice

[ISX]

I'll think of something lol do you have anything accurate at all? Calipers...I even have a ruler with 100ths of an inch on it.

[Rogan]

all i have is a set of digital calipers and a DVMM with temp probe. LOLside question:will the schrader-valve type banjo bolt thingy (OE) for testing fuel pressure on a VP44 work on a p7100? I may have one of those laying around and possibly be able to use that and my pressure tester to check fuel pressure.. (if I can find that banjo bolt thingy in the garage..)

[ISX]

Calipers will work..And IF it is the same style fuel filter housing (think thats where you have the Vp44 fuel pressure thinger) then I would think it would work. The 96-maybe 2001 fuel filter housings are the same. But the 24V has the test ports bored out whereas the 12v's just have the casting.

[Rogan]

this pressure-port banjo was in the side of the vp44, where a fuel line connected.. not the filter housing.

[ISX]

Not sure then. I'd take the one out of the P7100 and compare the threads with it and everything.. Lots of fuel will dump out and you'll have to reprime it.

[Rogan]

You can be really cheap about it and just unscrew the bleed screw and screw a hose fitting in there and to your gauge and even a needle valve. Then just rev it up and see what happens. If it is under 25psi at like 2000RPM then you got a problem. Though it sounds to be more like it's running at under 20psi. If you do have that issue, you can take some pliers and clamp the return line when it goes to a rubber hose past the back of the injection pump. You don't close it off, just apply pressure and see if you can get fuel pressure out of it. Aim to see 35psi at least. If you are able to completely clamp it off and still nothing, then the lift pump is junk. Basically you are doing the overflow valves job for it. The springs in them get weak routinely. MAKE SURE you use something to round the edges of whatever you clamp the hose with...you wouldn't want to cut the fuel line up with the sharp edge of some pliers. I use those vice grips, 11R's or whatever, they have rounded over ends. Or I'll come fix the thing haha

where's the bleed screw? (I haven't looked yet.)

[ISX]

Top of the fuel filter you will see a screw on top of the banjo bolt (screw inside a screw). You just crack it open half a turn and watch the bubbles like you did in pre school when it was nice out.

[Rogan]

ahh. Is that where I'd test fuel pressure as well?

[ISX]

No you put it where all the fuel is going to dump out of the injection pump. After the fuel filter..

[ISX]

Somehow it's going to be 70* here (and of course drop down to 15* the next day) so I'll go back home and do the valve thing and even video tape every thing you need to do to confirm stock timing. Show you where my fuel pressure stuff is as well. Among other things.

[Rogan]

thanks. It's supposed to be in the 60s here this weekend, so hopefully I can check this out..

[ISX]

Do this now since this pump is here. Now this timing tab thing isn't the gospel it can be off a degree or 2 but all of this is a crude but close enough way to see just how far off the timing is. I mean we should be able to get it to +/- 2* of the stock 12.5* or whatever is on the data plate. And I mean that tab only comes into view at #1 TDC COMPRESSION/POWER

[Rogan]

Ok, thanks.

- - - Updated - - -

I moved this to 12V section, as it's now a technical thread

[Rogan]

50 degrees ambient and 62 miles an hour flat ground[ATTACH]4889[/ATTACH]Sent from my SPH-L710 using Tapatalk 2

[ISX]

Well this is turning into a teardown of my whole truck as usual. I confirmed TDC again and it was exactly the same as before so I got that down pat. So I then centered the timing tab thinger in the portal and ehhh I just figured it out :banghead: as I sit here thinking of it. Hard to think of it in my head when I'm out there I guess. Anyhow, my data tag says 13.5* and I measured how far I was from the TDC point with the pump centered (I advanced it before) and it comes out to about 15.7*. But........I then wanted to see just how far off it was from actual spill port closure. So I rotated the engine backwards and it never closed. I took the delivery valve out as well as the seat it goes in which I believe seals off another hole because I had this problem last time when I had it out, so I put it back in and all was well. However, that was then and this is now and I took that stuff to my place to do a video and therefore do not have them here. But aside from all that, I noticed the retarding notch in my 215 pump is part of the scheme a lot longer than the people on the internet claim. Most claim it doesn't even get used with the stock rack plug. I took the delivery valve holder completely out so I saw nothing but the barrel and the plunger. I then rotated the engine to where the spill port was above the plunger so I could see for myself. It is almost ALWAYS being used. This means that only very low fueling has regular timing and any higher load is always retarded. Not only that, the thing also seems to get to the end of the notch and start to get back to the advanced portion. All of this completely goes against what everyone says and I might just take the pump out of the truck and take it back home with me to study it more. I have a guy who wants me to set his timing right now though so I am going to get his delivery valve seat then run back and test mine again then go back and do his timing. I already have everything apart and want to see how far that pin is off.

[ISX]

Forgot I had it set at 20*. It's still dead nuts at it though, but this retarding notch is doing some weird crap. The transition to it causes crap to happen so I'm taking it off the track and taking it to my apartment for further study. The pump I have there is not a 215 so does not have the retarding notches. As far as the valves during TDC on the valve overlap, the intake is down 0.02" and the exhaust is down 0.016". This is with the valves set at 10 & 20 which I set right before measuring (since I had to mess with them to confirm TDC). So it will work with calipers but that's pushing it. It would be close enough to examine where the timing is. Alright on to set the timing for this guys pump, easy non notched 160 And its on an engine stand so it's gonna be niccce.

[ISX]

Well that was a little too easy. I set his timing in 15 min. Now if I could figure out my stupid pump. Retarding notch really screws everything, I want to make a plot of the timing from idle to WOT. Rogan, work on a fuel pressure gauge