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Good luck on that price. You should figure around 1200-1500 for a converter and VB at the same time and fluid change. If you shop around you might find a decent after market converter for 750-900 VB is 350-500 depending on what you go with. You want to replace the converter input seal while the tranny and converter are out.

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For your price range just start with what is wrong with the tranny in the first place that is causing the shudder, Get a new aftermarket Valve body and you will have a lot more pressure to help the clutches in the tranny and lockup clutch hold tighter. This will get you a lot more life out of your current converter and tranny overall and will keep you in your price range.Do it right and do it once and be worry free, why throw a new 500 dollar converter into something when the stock valve body is what caused it to start slpping in the first place.

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Well, the money thing has to do with not wanting to waste it. The truck and trailer are paid off. But that does not mean I have money to burn. I take it by you sig you are a Mopar Tech? The reason I was looking at torque converter was because it is the weak link according to the test garage manager at the Chrysler plant I work at. We build torque converters at this plant, just not the one for the diesels, or I would have the stock one replaced there.

I also was told by a performance re-builder, one that has rebuilt 48re transmissions that I should replace the TC first. I have replaced both solenoids last spring as the trans seemed to not be shifting correctly. Also I had a shift kit installed and the bands adjusted last fall.

Don

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BTW with One in College, one in tech school and one going in college next year you might now get the empty pocket thing. :spend:

You did notice that my truck is a 2004 and the trailer is a 2005 right?

Don

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OK I talked with Dave at Goerend Transmission and he directed me to power break the truck and see if I feel the shudder. If there is none it is not the trans, sure enough no shudder.

He gave me a TSB 03-003-04 http://dodgeram.info/tsb/2004/03-003-04.htm

Vehicles equipped with a two piece driveshaft are designed to minimize reaction forces which

result from the universal joint transmitting torque at an angle. These forces can not be

eliminated entirely because of the necessity to compromise joint angle selection between curb

and design loading conditions. When subjected to this vibration, the vehicle experiences a

shudder type disturbance, generally occurring less than 25 mph. This disturbance will increase

as the suspension moves further from its design load (typically two front passengers). The

forces are also torque sensitive, which means the disturbance, will be highest under wide open

throttle.

U-joint angles change depending upon the amount of weight applied to the vehicle bed,

therefore u-joint angle readings may need to be taken with different vehicle loads in order to

obtain a satisfactory compromise. The vehicle should be evaluated under the loaded condition

that produces the objectionable disturbance.

There is a one piece drive shift part number 52123161AA or you can shim the carrier bearing using part numbers 04778851, 8852, 8853 1/8" 1/4" and 1/2".

I had replaced the u-joints and C/B at about 70K miles but did not know about the shims. So here we are at almost the same mileage and it needs a new C/B. the u-joints seem to be OK but there is definitely why to much movement in the C/B. So I'm going to get a new one then make up a SS 1/4" shim and hopefully be done with it this BS.

Don

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Sorry Didn't mean to offend.:doh: I just hate seeing folks waste money myself.I reread your original post and misread thinking you had a lockup shudder and now see it was a launch shudder.Keep us up on how the driveline fix works. These 3rd gens like to eat rear u-joints, at 106K on my 05 I have replaced the rear one 2 times already and mine is a 1 piece shaft. My friends who have 3rd gens have the same issue, 50k is about all we see out of the rear joints.I have never seen this cause a low speed launch shudder though.I am not a "Mopar" tech, I am diesel tech who has worked on just about everything with wheels and a diesel except for trains, planes and ships over my 20 year career in the diesel tech field. Half my career has been working on big coal mine equipment the other half was at dealerships and service centers for construction, ag, OTR trucks, diesel pickups and anything one could mount a diesel engine in, aggragate equipment stationary and support equipment even a couple boats with diesels.I gained a lot of experience and a bad back that motivated me into management as a shop foreman at the mine I am at now.

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Was not offended and I agree with you I hate to waste money. The kids do that for me :spend: with Momma's help too :rolleyes: . Not sure why I didn't think about the driveline because now that I think back it is acting the same way before we left for the Florida trip three years ago. :banghead:After talking to Dave I drove her onto the ramps grabbed the front and rear shaft and was able to move them about a quarter of an inch in any direction. So now I'm looking to see if there is an upgrade to the OEM carrier bearing or if I'm stuck with the factory one. Last time there was no upgrade, will most likely replace the joints at the same time. However they are tight so I'll pull a cap off the rear joint and see how the bearing surface looks.Most likely will end up with $150 if just the CB TO $300 if the joints need replacing too.Don

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Was not offended and I agree with you I hate to waste money. The kids do that for me :spend: with Momma's help too :rolleyes: . Not sure why I didn't think about the driveline because now that I think back it is acting the same way before we left for the Florida trip three years ago. :banghead: After talking to Dave I drove her onto the ramps grabbed the front and rear shaft and was able to move them about a quarter of an inch in any direction. So now I'm looking to see if there is an upgrade to the OEM carrier bearing or if I'm stuck with the factory one. Last time there was no upgrade, will most likely replace the joints at the same time. However they are tight so I'll pull a cap off the rear joint and see how the bearing surface looks. Most likely will end up with $150 if just the CB TO $300 if the joints need replacing too. Don

Might check into the one piece driveline you listed in the last post, here it is. http://www.moparpartsdiscounted.com/oemparts/dodge-120/52123161AA%20.html
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I'm not sure that number is a good number for my truck. I have the 160" WB and have not been able to find a one piece for a LWB quad cab auto 2WD. All the ones for my truck are two piece shafts. Will call my dealer tomorrow and find out what is available.

Don

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Ordered the one piece shaft from my dealer at the cost of $611.25 with a list price of $897 :spend:but at the rate of changing a CB every 70,000 miles it makes more since to replace the drive shaft from what I have been readed in other forums. So looks like more OT for me coming down the pike.:sleep:

Don

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Well went to pick up the drive shaft today and it is a two piece drive shaft :mad:. Looks like there is no sold drive shaft for the 160" wheelbase trucks. Will find out more Monday when I go to the dealership.

Try and find a local driveline shop and see if they can quote you for a custom made 1-piece. Might be spendy up front, but it might justify it if it gives you the longevity.
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Edit: I'm retarded, and can't read...Might want to consider axle wrap as an issue, depending on what you have done, or don't have done...I know it's what was causing my shudder in my 96...traction bars helped significantly, since I've put them on, keeping the axle in place...that's probably going to do far more than just a driveshaft. Edit 2: I'm still retarded and can't read...you did already mention the carrier bearing...As far as the one piece driveshaft, I've looked into that, as I recently had to replace one custom driveshaft for another...I had an aluminum 4 in driveshaft, that held up great-until my axle wrap took out my ujoints and slung the driveshaft under my rear duals...it's not good anymore. I had a new one made, custom steel 4 in one piece driveshaft, for $650, shipped to my house. That's about the going rate for a one piece. I've got a 2nd gen, QC LB dually, so it's a full custom. If you do go with replacing the carrier bearing and staying with a 2 piece, I would recommend getting or building a set of traction bars, which IMO would help with keeping the carrier bearing alive longer. They would minimize the axle wrap under acceleration, or heavy torque pulls, which would keep the bearing from taking the full brunt of an off angle rotation. I had horrible axle wrap with my 96, especially under load-for me, it happened while around 60-65 mph, but it was so bad I would have to back out of the throttle, and run down to 55 or so, as it felt the truck was going to rattle itself apart. Since the traction bars, that same rattle has dropped down to a minor shudder, that I can deal with now. I'm sure that would help keep your carrier bearing alive longer

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  • 3 weeks later...

Had the new two piece drive-shaft installed Monday Striped the heads off the CB bolts :ashamed: and I don't have a torch :mad: so I had the dealer pop it in for me. They only charged me $48.00 :thumb1: ! Shout Out to Al Smith Chrysler, Dodge, Ram, Jeep in Bowling-Green, Ohio just a great bunch of guys and girls there!!! Anyway she is as sold as a rock now. BTW after inspecting the rear shaft we found a dent in it so the POS GM spear tire I hit on the highway 3 months ago did damage it. That is most likely what took the CB and front u-joint on the rear shaft out :mad: ! Now I have a reason to hate GM's :lmao: .Next thing on the to do list is install the brake assemblies I received for the TT then we will be ready for the Outer Banks trip :cool: .

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