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Revisit to Priming


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So why is it I always have that model that is the "different" one? After putting a new DDRP on the truck in fall and still not having good FP and VP death code, I put out the $ and had new VP put on. Truck runs great...but still ____ poor FP. I was lucky to see 13 at idle and I could pull it to 3 at WOT. Talked to boys at geno's. Sent me new DDRP spring...should increase FP...installed it and it did....but Im still draining to 5 .... so the guys tell me to swap filter and run a bucket test (pull from a fuel can right off the DDRP). I have to be pulling air. I tear it down and I just dont like the idea of the DDRP install.I had put in a draw staw at the tank sometime ago, created a quick clip to use the stock hose toward the DDRP, then cut stock line, put in the DDRP packed can filter, stock line on to the DDRP. then push lock line to the filter canister and stock to the VP.Now my VP doesnt have a shraeder, or I'm too stupid to know what it is....(I want to see another's pic). My filter canister on the 99 is the can from below with 4 ports in to. Banjo ports in and out and 2 plugged 1/8" fittings.letI got it fired once had a huge mess, cuz I could only prime with one of the 1/8" open and fuel shooting everywhere. I have gone thru the cracking injection line at head cracking at VP in, and open any of the ports on top. I go from changing my sending unit to all these ports just to get a reading. I'm lost with a hose in a can....and cant get it primed. I'd love someone to explain what these 4 ports are in top of my canister.Should I crack the inlet to the VP to prime the canister... what am I missing?

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Crack one of the unused ports on the filtered side of the canister (side towards the VP), install a plug in there if needed, and just loosen it ever so slightly, you'll air bubbles come out, and then a small stream of fuel once the air is out of the system, and the canister is full. Might need to bump the key several times to get it all primed up. Usually takes me anywhere from 6-7 times of key bumping to prime my filter, I have same as you. I'll try to get a pic on here for you. I wouldn't touch the inlet to the VP from the canister, it's kind of a pain to get to and when you need to tighten it back up once the canister's primed, your hand will inevitably snag on a hose and you'll be more frustrated.

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I assume im just not being patient enough. I had the FP send in the out side banjo with a snubber bolt. Guess Im just frustrated I cant see FP on guage. Thanks for the 6-8 bumps input that helps. So either of the 1/8" fits are filtered side? Whats rest of you fuel system like?

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We bought the Vulcan 1/2" big line kit with our DDRP.. its stock 3/8 into the pump, and then all high flow push locks from there through the stock filter canister right to an elbo into the VP.. The elbow has a convenient 1/8 pipe tap in it for FP. My Son does`nt have a gauge on the 99, but I rigged one out of my tool box just to test, and it was running about 15-16@ idle and fluctuated between 10-12 just reving it in the shop?? never checked it on a road test though..I may be all wet on this??but I always prime my filter canister with a sqeeze bottle of fuel before ever trying to start. On the 99 I pull the brass plugs out and run it through a small funnel until it runs over.My 03 is a little more tricky because it has the spin on cap, but I have never had an issue with prime on either one.getting the air out of the VP is`nt all that hard either.. Just crack three of the lines @ the injector tubes that are easiest to reach, and then crank... I have found that it helps to hold the foot pedal to the floor until she starts to hit good.. then tighten your lines back up

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I'm close to ordering the relocation kit to shift the pump toward tank and all new line, just the guy at Geno's said good idea to bucket test it. Sounds like you put the big line kit on...thinking that myself. I also funnel filled the canister on my initial install .... just seems too much from all I hear. Still think I'm sucking air with the low FP. Just looking for insight and few have my same setup it seems. Nice to hear from a fellow 99 driver.

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Yeah I think the best place is back close to the tank.. My old Vacuum/ pressure gauge might not be real accurate, but it was so much better than the 5-6 idleing the original registered I was very pleased.I think the 1/2'' line might have been a little overkill for a stock engine, but it probably does`nt hurt anything either:2cents:

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I'll give you food for thought the last time I took my RV275 injectors out and installed my stock 235 HP injectors I didn't even bleed the low pressure side nor did I bother to crack a injector. I bumped the start a few cycles till a good fuel pressure number shown then crank on the engine maybe 10-15 seconds it fired right up. I must still have a strong VP44 to fire up that easy. :wink:

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Did you install the pre pump filter in the factory 3/8 line?

Yes.. but for some reason it seemed like our DDRP came with like a 5/16 filter:think: I pitched it on the shelf and bought a 3/8 Wix.. its been changed out every other oil change along with the cartridge filter.
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We bought the Vulcan 1/2" big line kit with our DDRP.. its stock 3/8 into the pump, and then all high flow push locks from there through the stock filter canister right to an elbo into the VP.. The elbow has a convenient 1/8 pipe tap in it for FP. My Son does`nt have a gauge on the 99, but I rigged one out of my tool box just to test, and it was running about 15-16@ idle and fluctuated between 10-12 just reving it in the shop?? never checked it on a road test though..

I may be all wet on this??but I always prime my filter canister with a sqeeze bottle of fuel before ever trying to start. On the 99 I pull the brass plugs out and run it through a small funnel until it runs over.

My 03 is a little more tricky because it has the spin on cap, but I have never had an issue with prime on either one.

getting the air out of the VP is`nt all that hard either.. Just crack three of the lines @ the injector tubes that are easiest to reach, and then crank... I have found that it helps to hold the foot pedal to the floor until she starts to hit good.. then tighten your lines back up

I like that idea - thanks. Saves bumping the starter several times.

- - - Updated - - -

[ATTACH=CONFIG]5458[/ATTACH]thanks going to[ATTACH=CONFIG]5459[/ATTACH] shoot some pics too

The 1/8 plug on the left side of the first pic, just above the yellow drain, is on the filtered side, the plug on the right, just below the big input line is pre-filter, if I understand correctly. On the second pic, the banjo bolt on the right is the inlet to your VP, and the one on the left is the overflow valve, to which the return line from the VP is attached.

Here's mine, which is identical, except I added a long 1/8 in extension for when I hook up a FP test gauge it makes it easier to thread it on there. post-10082-138698201585_thumb.jpg

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