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Jumpy clutch


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Once my truck gets warm the clutch gets real jumpy, when trying to back up slowly or starting in 2nd. Could this be a slave cyl problem or is my clutch bad? There is a small amount of oil sweating from between trans and bell housing but nothing at flywheel

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Yes if I give it some throttle it doesn't do it, I didn't think that was good for the clutch tho, I am glad to hear its not just mine and I hope I don't have to change clutch cause I just fixed 5th gear 3 months ago( I guess the bolts won't be seized)

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Yes if I give it some throttle it doesn't do it, I didn't think that was good for the clutch tho, I am glad to hear its not just mine and I hope I don't have to change clutch cause I just fixed 5th gear 3 months ago( I guess the bolts won't be seized)

wont hurt it at all if you arent towing. ive had mine in for almost a year and have zero issues doing this. what will kill it is revving real high and holding and feathering, hear will build up fast and glaze something. what you and i do wont cause problems being the short duration at a low rpm. if you tow start in first gear and minimize slip when engaging clutch and you will be fine
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I have a Valair organic in mine and it is the same. another way I start is just let the clutch out quickly. The way it takes off takes a little getting used to though, but works very well. Not so well if you are towing.

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I'm glad that it sounds like my clutch isn't bad, I rev it up a bit the only time it really bothered me was when I needed to back up slowly, I plan on using 4low when 5th wheel hooked up and backing up slow, thanks for the responses

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I'm glad that it sounds like my clutch isn't bad, I rev it up a bit the only time it really bothered me was when I needed to back up slowly, I plan on using 4low when 5th wheel hooked up and backing up slow, thanks for the responses

yeah being in 4 low reverse will amplify the jump against the driveline and clutch springs. i also experience it more in reverse as the ratios is a lot lower as well.
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I use a 4w low 2 w drive switch. It allows me to disengage the front axle kinda of like not using the front axle hubs. That way you get low toqure but no wheel hop. I got mine from Pac Brake.

You have a little more info on this switch?
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The switch works on the vacuum. After you put truck in 4wd low you flip the switch which reverses the vacuum disengaging the front axle.That way you get the low torque when backing the trailer. The part number on my reciept is C11935 it was ordered direct from Pac Brake my the dealer that installed it. You can also get it from Genosgarage.com part number is BD-1030703 cost is 142.50. It is WELL worth the money if you back a trailer very much.

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The switch works on the vacuum. After you put truck in 4wd low you flip the switch which reverses the vacuum disengaging the front axle.

That way you get the low torque when backing the trailer. The part number on my reciept is C11935 it was ordered direct from Pac Brake my the dealer that installed it. You can also get it from Genosgarage.com part number is BD-1030703 cost is 142.50. It is WELL worth the money if you back a trailer very much.

http://www.pacbrake.com/index.php?page=vehicle-accessories

it changed to C18056

4WD 2 WHEEL LOW KIT

Dodge 1994-2002

This kit is specially designed for maneuvering your truck (and trailer) in tight, uphill conditions. The 4WD 2 Wheel Low switch allows the operator to engage the transfer case into 4WD low range without engaging the front wheel drive. Hit the dash activation switch to provide an extra low gear for backing up, which eliminates any front and rear wheel hop that you may have experienced.

Installation Manual (L2033)

C18056

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I bought a cheapo 12 volt solenoid off of amazon.com for around 15 bucks. I teed into the vaccum line in the engine compartment before it drops down behind the engine and to the transfer case that way everything stays clean rather than being under the truck and in the salt, mud etc. The solenoid is normally open so the vaccum simply travels through the solenoid and then down to the transfer case until I flip the toggle switch which blocks the flow of vaccum and then I put the t case in 4 lo only now its 2 lo. Its a real simple set up and I had less than 30 bucks into everything. Im sure the kits from BD are nicer. I can take some pics of it if you like.

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post-11861-138698201889_thumb.jpgI made a bracket and bolted it into one of the hood hinge bolts and tucked everything up in front of my air filter that way its out of the way.post-11861-138698201897_thumb.jpgHeres a closer pic of it its hard to get a good shot without removing the air filter.post-11861-138698201914_thumb.jpgThe line my finger is on was the supply for vaccum to my t case. I unplugged the line from the vaccum manifold and ran a section of vaccum line to my solenoid. This is now the supply line to the solenoid valve.post-11861-138698201922_thumb.jpgComing out of the solenoid valve I ran another section of vaccum line back to the line that runs down behind the engine and into the tcase. So I basically made a loop and when i need 4 lo I simply flip my toggle switch which interrupts the vaccum and then move the t case lever to 4 lo and I now have 4 lo. Like I said its a very cheap alternative and probably not nearly as nice as the kits you can buy but it does work.Just make sure if you do this you get a solenoid that is normally open, otherwise you would have to have it energized all the time to keep the flow of vaccum to the t case and CAD.post-11861-138698201929_thumb.jpgI chose to mount my toggle switch way down low instead of somewhere up on the dash. I didnt want to drill any holes in the dash and this is down near the t case lever anyhow, so it seemed like a good spot. I made sure to locate it in a spot where it cant get kicked accidentally.
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I have an automatic so Im in a little better shape than you manual guys as far as trying to get a load moving or backing one up. But let me tell you since Ive had it I find myself using it alot. Like for instance the road (if you could call it that) going into the camp where we stay at in West Virginia. Its about 7 miles long, very steep, very narrow, and rough. In previous yrs going up it Ive always had to stay in the throttle pretty heavy and watched my egt hover around 1100+*. This while driving no faster than 20 or 25 mph down to 5 or 10 in the sharp corners. And with an auto trans that kind of driving with an unlocked converter sky rockets the trans temp. This year I stopped as soon as we turned on to the road and dropped her down into 2 low. With all that torque she hummed right up with little effort. And while I dont have an EB coming back down I left it in 3rd and threw the lock up switch and it was enough to coast down with truck and trailer and only have to get on the brakes for the hair pin turns. Lots of little for instances like that that I use it for now.

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