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if you warp/bend/mame a connector tube when installing injectors is it obvious?


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hey all...I had a stuck injector last weekend so I replaced them with some even bigger ones (220hp vs 175) bc they were the only ones I could find on the saturday of memorial day weekend. Is it obvious with how the truck idles if there's an issue with the connector tubes? I dont know if there is, but the truck idles meaner with the new injectors anyways so a comparison to before isnt fair. The truck appears to be running fine, but it is way smokier than before. I know that could be the injectors just being bigger and smokier. We couldnt find any connector tubes over the holiday weekend so we reused the old ones that have been tightened on multiple times, and clearly over the 28ft lbs normal torque.

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There's a return system for the fuel - think if you bust the seal in the connector tube it will either leak at the head or return .. Think the main issue is if you have an injector "stuck" ..... Check for fuel leaks with paper towels or even powder .... #6 is hard to see ....

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From CFHere are the potential issues:1. connector tube Oring. Will cause a external leak at fitting but generally causes hard start from fuel drain back into tank. 2. Damaged metal seal at end of connector tube causes leak into return system.3. Oring on injector. A leak here will dump profuse amounts of fuel into crankcase and engine will run reansonable well. bottom end failure will result.... 4. copper washer issues. Extra washer, resused washer, missing washer, or improperlly torqued clamp, can cause pressureation of fuel tank by leaking into return system. Can cause severe flooding of cylinder, severe miss, internal engine damage, and probablly more 5. Damaged tip or defecctive nozzle on injector. Cause engine miss, white smoke, cylinder damage, fuel flooding crankcase, sharp engine knocking and probablly more issues

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I don't think there is nothing wrong with the connector tubes. I think the injectors or so big now that it can't spray at low idle any longer it more or less squirting into the cylinders. This is the cause of the meaner idle and the smoker exhaust. Because if a connector tube was damaged you would have a misfire constant on one or more cylinders. The only other thing to ask is do you tighten the connector tubes first or the injectors? If the injector was tighten first you might of created the leak this way. So if you tighten the connector tube first you insure the seal of the tube in the injector.

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I don't think there is nothing wrong with the connector tubes. I think the injectors or so big now that it can't spray at low idle any longer it more or less squirting into the cylinders. This is the cause of the meaner idle and the smoker exhaust. Because if a connector tube was damaged you would have a misfire constant on one or more cylinders. The only other thing to ask is do you tighten the connector tubes first or the injectors? If the injector was tighten first you might of created the leak this way. So if you tighten the connector tube first you insure the seal of the tube in the injector.

I'm not sure theres a leak or anything , oil looks fine and smells fine the best I can tell. We did tighten the injectors first, or at least get them seated then pushed the tubes in. I kinda thought that about the idle thank you for confirming it for me.
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We did tighten the injectors first, or at least get them seated then pushed the tubes in. I kinda thought that about the idle thank you for confirming it for me.

Yeah you did them backwards...

[*]Push injector into hole with copper shim.

[*]Push connector tube into head and seat into injector.

[*]Tighten the injection line to spec.

[*]Place the injector cap on and tighten the 8mm bolt to 89 inch/pounds.

You need to ensure that the crossover tubes are tighten first before tighting the injector caps. What happens is you pin the injectors in the head and the crossover tubes will not seat properly. So now you have a high pressure leak into the fuel return rail. So the way to fix this is to re-do all the injectors lift them up a bit then start over to seat everything correctly.

The only way to leak fuel into the oil is to have a bad injector that is stuck open or to have a bad O-ring on the injector. The crossover tube O-ring keeps the return rail from bleeding out onto the intake manifold.

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Yeah you did them backwards...

[*]Push injector into hole with copper shim.

[*]Push connector tube into head and seat into injector.

[*]Tighten the injection line to spec.

[*]Place the injector cap on and tighten the 8mm bolt to 89 inch/pounds.

You need to ensure that the crossover tubes are tighten first before tighting the injector caps. What happens is you pin the injectors in the head and the crossover tubes will not seat properly. So now you have a high pressure leak into the fuel return rail. So the way to fix this is to re-do all the injectors lift them up a bit then start over to seat everything correctly.

The only way to leak fuel into the oil is to have a bad injector that is stuck open or to have a bad O-ring on the injector. The crossover tube O-ring keeps the return rail from bleeding out onto the intake manifold.

Hmmm, I just did injectors the other week and I seated the injectors then connector tubes, torqued the injector hold downs then torqued the hard lines and I had spray from the hard line nuts. I retorqued the hard line nuts and all seems to be good. No leaks. No fuel in oil. Is it evident if there is a leak into the fuel return rail and what will it do? Everything seems fine, although there is a quick sputter upon cold start up.

Thanks

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Hmmm, I just did injectors the other week and I seated the injectors then connector tubes, torqued the injector hold downs then torqued the hard lines and I had spray from the hard line nuts. I retorqued the hard line nuts and all seems to be good. No leaks. No fuel in oil. Is it evident if there is a leak into the fuel return rail and what will it do? Everything seems fine, although there is a quick sputter upon cold start up. Thanks

It might misfire and be poor spray pattern being the high pressure is leaking out into the return rail. The only way to fix is to re-do it the other way and it should cure any issues. You might notice hard starting and might not.
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I snug the hold down, then snug the fitting, then a little tighter with the hold down then a little tighter with the fitting, finally torque the hold down then torque the fitting.After 7 nozzle and/or pop pressure changes, the stock bodies & tubes still hold.

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  • 6 years later...

Quick question on tightening the injector lines to the connecting tunes at the head. If you over tighten them, do you think it could cause N air leak with out fuel? I loosened up injector 1 and 3 when I had to prime the system after a bad fuel line going to the vp. Now it seems to take on air somewhere.it’ll lose prime of it is parked facing up in the driveway but only after sitting 8+hours. It got all new fuel lines when I did my airdog. It will also slightly like at idle. I loosened injector 1 and 3 and then snugged back up and it helped the loping just a little. It’s not liking as bad as it was. Any help would be appreciated.

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2 hours ago, farming24v said:

Quick question on tightening the injector lines to the connecting tunes at the head. If you over tighten them, do you think it could cause N air leak with out fuel? I loosened up injector 1 and 3 when I had to prime the system after a bad fuel line going to the vp. Now it seems to take on air somewhere.it’ll lose prime of it is parked facing up in the driveway but only after sitting 8+hours. It got all new fuel lines when I did my airdog. It will also slightly like at idle. I loosened injector 1 and 3 and then snugged back up and it helped the loping just a little. It’s not liking as bad as it was. Any help would be appreciated.

If the problem did not exist until right after the AD install, I would recheckall connections on the new fuel system. You would see fuel if you over tightened the high pressure lines and damage them. I woul also check your return lines from the VP and the back of the head. The washers will go bad on the head and you wont see it unless its bad enough to hit the ground. The tee they join to back behind the filter canister is another problem area. Both can cause loss of prime. Try parking it nose down and see if the problem persists. 

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If it’s parked nose down it is fine, it will only lose prime if it’s parked with the engine higher than the fuel tank. There’s no fuel leaks present after the install of the airdog. I did tighten the band no on the back of the head. I still need to look at the tee. It looks like it will be a pain to replace 

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The one on the back of the head is bolt with 2 sealing washers. Not sure what you mean by band. The rubber gets hard with time and will loose there ability to seal. If their age is in question replacing them would be a good idea.

 You dont have to replace the tee just the grommets inside of it. It is still a pain due to its location.

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