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A/C on "Dead Pedal"!!


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Ok i've posted issue's with a off and on "dead Pedal" issue on this forum but i finally found the reason why after a few test run's. After all the test i have disscovered that any time i run my A/C on any setting my pedal goes dead good fuel pressure and so on just a dead pedal till i turn off the A/C. I can't even imagine why those two item's would even be tied together so any idea's why this is happening??? Thank's look forward to your anwser's

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:think:APPS sensor is powered by the +5V of the ECM and ground by the ECM. So its not a APPS sensor. Now the VP44 is grounded to the driver side battery cable and so is the ECM. So I would test the main battery cables for voltage drop and see if there is more than 0.2 volts lost during heavy load. But the A/C and blower grounds are not even near the battery ground. The blower is grounded in the cab and controlled by a relay in the PDC under the hood. Then the A/C is grounded on the left rear of the engine block.

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Yeah i'm at a total loss as well but it is the reason for the dead pedal. Yesterday I took my Family out to eat went on a 100 mile round trip and ran the A/C on MAX the whole way there had a dead pedal the whole way. On return ran the A/C for 5 min's dead pedal the whole time turned the A/C off and rollled down the window's second's later full pedal all the way home. Then today left for town ran the A/C for 5 min's till rain blew off dead pedal from the start a few secs after i turned off the A/C off and rolled the window's down again full pedal and no more issue's. There was no other item's on no radio, no running light's, nothing but A/C. But i will check the battery Cable's tommorrow. Thanks for the reply i know well get this nipped in the bud soon enough :thumbup2:

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The APPS works by resistance, in other words the computer reads the amount of voltage drop coming from the APPS. If for some reason the A/C is causing even more of a drop in that line then it will be read be the computer as a lower throttle input than actually exists. Basically the same as a boost fooler. I am not sure if the APPS and A/C wiring are in the same harness but look for a short or open ground in the harness's. Unplug the A/C clutch at the unit and turn it on and see if you have the same symptoms without the A/C unit itself on but the wiring energized. If you do then pull the A/C fuse and try it then with the A/C switch on and off. Basically you are trying to narrow it down to a subsystem and then to a wire.If unplugging the compressor fixes it you may have a bad clutch that is drawing a lot of power.

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Yeah My Apalogie's what ya'll are saying is true it's not a total dead Pedal it's a 75% dieing pedal at idle it rev's normal full pedal. In all 6 gear's I have about half-an-inch of pedal till it goes dead can floor it no rpm change, no boost increase, fuel pressure hold's 14-15pd's. I Can press the clutch in and it rev's as it should boost climb's EGT's rise and Fuel PSI drop's to 14 if i hammer it... then let off the clutch and poof back to 25% pedal. Also it may not only be the A/C causing this every time i have had the issue i was running the A/C but, I remember there was water present at every occurance last three time's i had the A/C on due to me washing the truck and was out drying it off or going to eat. Today with the A/C never begin engaged it has rained all day and last night same problem no pedal. I wonder if where the previous owner tapped the APPS wire for the Bank's ottomind programmer if moisture is getting in there and causing an issue..... I want to say thank's so far for the great help we will getter figured out.

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The Ottomind has a wiring harness that comes from it, thru the firewall and out to the map sensor and then to the apps sensor. It is just two connectors at each. You unplug the apps from the oe wiring harness and plug it into the banks harness. Then you plug the banks harness into the oe harness. works the same for the map.post-10340-138698204127_thumb.jpg The connector in the fore ground is plugged into the oe harness. The end of the banks harness is visible at the clamp on the intake tube. In the back ground is the other connector from the banks harness to the apps. I have a Timbo apps and its connector wires are longer than the oe and this why it is visible. The oe apps connector would be somewhat behind the bell crank and not visible with out removing it.The wiring you are seeing here is just below the bell crank, I pulled it out some so it was visible. You might be able to just pull the cover off the bell crank and see it. I know when I installed it I had to remove the bell crank to get to the oe apps sensor. This might be a first, sharing banks info on mopars web site.

post-10340-138698204117_thumb.jpg

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I went out earlier and did a reset on the APPS....no luck I also contacted Bank's through there facebook to which they advised me to "chuck the ottomind sound's like it is going bad" So tomorrow after work i'm gonna remove the ottomind and pray that it fix's the problem. If not i'm gonna replace the MAP sensor was told that it could be bad then go from there... Thanks for the info Dripley it's much appricated.

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Alrighty then woke up this morning at daybreak popped the hood and removed the Bank's Ottomind from my truck. Retaped all the place's and zip tied all the other wire's back up fired the truck up and drove it all day and after 5 trip's to day around 100 mile's+/- (Hope i don't jinx myself)But, the issue seems to be resolved truck is back to full power if not a little more, no more excess smoke, Quiter at idle aswell, and the TSB code's are gone(removed them not returned) the truck drive's like i remember it did. Hope this is done Wanted to thank everyone who helped and offered advice really helped me to solve this issue Now the real issue at hand Edge or Smarty hmmmm lol

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