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mariner

MAP Electrical connnection plug - how do you do it ?

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Hi Guys,I am attempting to unplug the electrical connectionplug for the MAP sensor and I can't get the darn thing to move.I see (with the use of a mirror) two red pieces down near the brass part of the MAP sensor - on the plug body. Are these supposed to be pushed to release or pulled to release ?I cannot for the life of me figure out how it comes off (at 69 I'm getting slow and old eh!). It is a pain as there isn't a lot of room to work in to start with.While I am on the subject of electrical connectors - is the IAT the same or a different type to unlock and remove ?Sheesh, why does Dodge have to be different to everyone else re connectors? I'm not an electrician so my experience is limited with these things.Any help you could send my way (like instructions on how not to bugger up the connector) would be greatly appreciated.I am trying to sort out why I am getting a P0216 for the injection pump - which I believe is fine. I am trying to check other sensors that contribute to the injection pump operation. A dirty sensor or a failed one could cause erratic operation.Thanksmariner

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The red piece is a square "U" shape that needs to be pulled out to uncouple from a groove on the sensor. Don't have to pull it off but it snaps out about a 1/16 of an inch pull it too far out and the bottom side recouples in the grooved slots again, there is a sweet spot for it so to speak. The legs of the "U" are what hook into the grooves of the sensor.Hope you get the drift, not a very good explanation but the best I can do without show and tell.

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I suggest you practice with the ABS computer plugs first being they are right in front of you and easy to look at. But Bill is right just slight the red tab over and then squeeze the release and lightly tug it will slide right off.

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Thanks guys - I finally got it figured out. It is amazing what a good nights sleep will do :-)Now I find that the deep sockets I have won't work so I am on hold until I can get the right ones. Probably get back to it on Thursday after our weekly grocery trip to town (43 miles away).mariner

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I think you are supposed to use a special cleaner on those or you can cause them to fail. Might be Sensor cleaner only, I think.Mariner, I also get the 0216 code that keeps coming up, but, the truck runs smooth as glass all the time. Been that way for 2 years. Sometimes I think this code is set off by a low tank when it sloshes and the fuel flow becomes reduced. I can hear my lift pump sucking in air on turns and other sloshes till I fill it up again. It think this is another main reason to mount the lift pump closer to the tank because when you have low fuel and suck air momentarily, it won't loose prime so readily as if it were up on the block.Mike do you think it can set off the 0216 code if the tank is low enough to slosh causing the pump to push air momentarily into the system? Thanks

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Mike do you think it can set off the 0216 code if the tank is low enough to slosh causing the pump to push air momentarily into the system?

No. I never seen it happen with my truck when getting fuel slosh below 1/8 tank. This pump has never tripped a P0216 code yet. The only time you need to clean these sensors is if you own a Exhaust Brake. If not there should be zero reason to even pull them. Heck even with my Exhaust brake I quit pulling the IAT sensor and MAP a few years back to see if I could actually foul the sensors. Has not happen yet.
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Mike just want to make sure..... The fact that I can hear my pump running momentarily wild (when sucking air) and Fuel Pressure drops off will not set off an 0216 code?? Even though I can hear my lift pump just squealing for some bit of fuel?Just cannot for the life of me figure out why my truck, which runs so perfect, is throwing this code.

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I pulled both sensors for checking and cleaning. Both looked pretty clean but I cleaned them anyway - used carb cleaner. Hope this hasn't done any damage - I guess time will tell.I checked the IAT with it sitting on the bench and got R= 17.69 kohms with ambient temperature of 50 degrees F. I don't know if that means anything to anyone. I have tried to find a value for a good IAT sensor, but no luck yet. I replaced both and started the truck and all seems fine though it does sound a little different - more throaty maybe. If the cleaning helped I don't know - it is snowing heavily here and don't want to try test driving with snow plows out etc.Anyone know what the engine coolant temp sensor should read cold sitting in the engine - resistance value ? I cut a piece of cardboard and placed it between the rad and air cooler to cut down on excessive cold (has 8" diameter hole in the centre for fan air flow) as I don't yet have a winter front for the truck. I am hoping this may help a bit if the problem is temperature related - engine is in limp mode until it warms up and then the power just appears and everything is back to normal ?I am for reasons for this problem and only get P0216 and yet the engine seems fine, start great , no smoke , etc. After replacing the APPS I once got a P0222 but it cleared and never returned.My suspicions are are that there may have been a connection not properly seated - numerous plugs disconnected and then plugged back in. No other codes shown using a ODB11 reader.Any suggestions on where to go from here. I am pretty sure that the VP44 pump is still mechanically good but what about the PCB on the top of the pump - hhhhmmmmm? No codes showing.Thanksmariner

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IAT and ECT sensors run on the same ohm scale.[TABLE][TR][TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center]Temperature[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, bgcolor: #3870cc, align: center] Resistance[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 13°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 56K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 26°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 39K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 87ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 7.4K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 91°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 6.8K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 100°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 5.6k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 107°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.7K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 112°F[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 4.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 119ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.6K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 123ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.3K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 127ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 3.0K ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 132ºF[/TD] [TD=width: 50%, align: center] 2.7k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 143°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 148°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 2.0k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 163°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.5k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 173°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.2k ohms[/TD] [/TR] [TR] [TD=align: center] 184°F[/TD] [TD=align: center] 1.0k ohms[/TD][/TR][/TABLE]Best way to test both is to use a live data tool and see what the ECM sees. Ohm values out in the open can be skewed by just handling the sensor with your hands your body heat will cause then to rise.P0216 just means the ECM commanding for advance timing and the pump is no longer capable of getting the advancement cam to move in a timely manner. POOF! P0216 code thrown. If the electronics on top (PSG) were bad you'd see a P1688 code most likely.Be careful of the cardboard with the hole in the center you keeping the fan clutch cool and unlocked so its possible to actual get to hot.

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I've read 2 reports that say the 0216 is not (always) the death code. One from Blue Chip Diesel in his write ups. And the other from you Micheal, Mopar 1973.Yes Mike, you posted a while back about how fuel pressure or the lack of it would cause the timing piston to not be able to advance itself mechanicaly because it needs fuel to do so and will set off an electronic 0216 error code as a result.just cannot understand my truck and some others are reporting their trucks run so good, mine for two years, with the so called death code.:think::shrug::duh::pray:

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Hi Mike,Assuming the IAT and ECT resistance is linear with temperature change (didn't bother to make a graph to check), then the value for 50F should be easily calculated.With that in mind I calculated what I think the value should be for 50F and came up with 27.0 K ohms !The reading I got from my IAT was 17.69K ohms - hhhhm!Is this my problem - if the IAT is starting to fail ? I am not sure what would happen with the ECM signal input and corresponding VP44 commands.Thanksmariner

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Well I checked the truck ECT sensor today and got an ohmic value of 27.4K ohms for an ambient temperature of 50F. That value is exactly what I calculated for the IAT at 50F - however, my IAt only gave 17.69 K ohms.It is starting to look like the IAT is failing on my truck. Will know in a few days after I get a new IAt sensor (only $50 or so from Cummins Canada) and install it.Will update later once the new IAT is installed.Thanksmariner

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