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Engine Oil What Weight ?


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I have decided that I will probably start slowing switching all of my fluids out to synthetics. Just that piece of mind of having a fluid that will instantly flow is very reassuring. I understand that others have gone over 1 million miles on dino oil but I dont think they were in extreme low temps every single day like a few of us are.

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I have decided that I will probably start slowing switching all of my fluids out to synthetics. Just that piece of mind of having a fluid that will instantly flow is very reassuring. I understand that others have gone over 1 million miles on dino oil but I dont think they were in extreme low temps every single day like a few of us are.

 

 Thats the main reason I dont consider using it. I am very seldom in places that see the temps a lot of you see. Occasionally we will see temps in the teens, but it is unusual. Normal lows around me would normally be at or just below freezing. Just does not get that cold that often. This winter would be a bit of an exception however.

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I cant say as I have ever noticed an oil pressure drop when pulling a grade in the summertime. But i am using the factory gauge and my looks at it are pretty quick and as long as it sitting about a 1/4" above the forty mark I figure it is good. A real gauge might show me something different. On top of that, I dont pull my trailer often. Probably 5 times a year, from one job to the next, sometimes home first. Never had any bad luck using dino. 

 I dont have anything against synthetic. I just have not had any issues thru the years using dino.

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Thats where I was going whit the other post. Until I started hanging out here I had no Idea that the oil pressure gauge is mostly a dummy just letting you know you had pressure. Thats only a couple of steps ahead of an idiot light. I guess  could see the pressure start falling off well before the idiot light came on though. I dont watch it near as much DD'ing as I do when towing.

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I am not 100% sure of operation on a 2002, but I do believe it is a glorified idiot light. On a 2003+, for sure, it has to see 0 psi for 30 seconds before the dash alarm goes off and the needle moves.

 

AFIK the late 2nd gens with the "updated" software are the same, only uses the transducer as a on/off switch.

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15-40 Rotella here.

 

 

I've heard from, the guys at my local cummins power systems shop that if you've been running conventional motor oil for the life of your truck, (or if you bought a used truck and the engine oil type history is unknown) then you should never switch to synthetic as it will cause seals to leak. 

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My truck was also run on dino oil for the first 12 years of its life (about 67k miles worth). I switched to synthetic and have not developed any leaks. The engine is one of the cleanest I have ever owned, not even the slightest of leaks anywhere. Recently the power steering pump developed a slow leak, so I will be addressing it this spring.

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My 1998.5 Cummins has had 15-40 Rotella all It's life, with 202727 miles there have been no issues and she does not burn oil or smoke.

That is the way they are supposed to be as long as you take care of them, but if you were to start yours at -25* your truck would take quite a while building oil pressure. Synthetics will flow quite a bit easier at that temperature. This winter where I live we had 70 days so far this winter below zero (previous record was 59). With synthetics through out the drivetrain sure helped this year.

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First couple of years I ran Rotella 15w-40. Then I retired and the wife and I started running the country visiting family and friends. Was visiting a friend in New York one winter and when I tried to start the truck, I did not like the sound or oil pressure. Went to 5w-40 full synthetic. Later found out during a call to Cummins, they sends out all their engines with Valvoline Full Synthetic and recommends using it. I use the 5w-40 year round because I never know where we might end up at, what season of the year it might be in and in what weather condition. Just service when due and go.

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The 15w 40 is fine here temperature wise...but the smell when you come to a stop sign or red light is just nasty.

I switched from rotella to a hd irving brand 15w40 (its local) same smell. I added a couple feet to the puke hose.But I think I might have to go a bit further.

Regards Chris

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The 15w 40 is fine here temperature wise...but the smell when you come to a stop sign or red light is just nasty.

I switched from rotella to a hd irving brand 15w40 (its local) same smell. I added a couple feet to the puke hose.But I think I might have to go a bit further.

Regards Chris

Have you seen this?? It would probably help/solve your problem smell wise.

 

http://articles.mopar1973man.com/2nd-generation-24v-dodge-cummins/26-engine-systems/42-crankcase-vent-mod

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