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Military testing of 2 cycle oil in diesel fuel


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  • Owner

You guys got to check this out...

Below article is from...

http://www.dieselbombers.com/alternative-fuels-additives-fluids/953-2-stroke-oil-thread-13.html#post482310

After calling back the military testing facility in Manching, bavaria I got some interesting news.

-It doesn't matter what kind of Diesel engine 2-stroke oil is added. It is designed as an lubrication and cleaning aid. It burns itself cleaner than Diesel.

-recommended mixture is 1:200 down to 1:250. A higher mixture will devlop blue smoke again.

- Use of 2-stroke oil is demanded, when not knowing the source of Diesel or assuming impurities or dilluted Diesel.

This is what every 2 stroke oil manufacturer claims:

Think about it!

- Outstanding wear protection

Extended life for critical engine parts

- Enhanced frictional properties

Improved fuel economy

- Excellent thermal and oxidation stability

Exceptional engine cleaning power resulting in extended valve life, reduced ring sticking, piston tightening and elimination of pre-ignition problems

- Excellent corrosion protection properties

Longest engine life

- Eliminates pre-ignition

Maximises fuel efficiency and extends piston life

- Smoke-free exhaust

Cleaner environment

Why should a mixture of 1:50 in a gasoline engine be worse than a mixture of 1:200 in a Diesel just beeing needed as a lubing aid?

Being at the official demanded saftey inspection caused the safety officer to shook his head and to run the test twice. Emissions are 57% better than the last time. The ten year old engine is now as good as a modern engine equipped with a DPF.

This shows again that 2-stroke oil is so bad for the engine...

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I am going to say that the 200-250:1 ratio is probably all that 12v's need. I don't think I would go that low on 24v's. I have been very crude on it every time I dump it in, probably ending up at 100:1 ratio. I will start dumping in only half a quart from now on. Maybe it will clear ALL the smoke.

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  • Staff

2 stroke does some great things for lubrication. But I will say I am shocked at the "cleaner" results. At least in my truck it gummed my exhaust brake up to where it wouldn't engage above 1500 rpms, that was after going thru about a gallon at 10oz per fillup 1:450. Within 2K miles after I stopped using it my exhaust brake pressures were normal again.

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  • 3 weeks later...
  • Owner

2 stroke does some great things for lubrication. But I will say I am shocked at the "cleaner" results. At least in my truck it gummed my exhaust brake up to where it wouldn't engage above 1500 rpms, that was after going thru about a gallon at 10oz per fillup 1:450. Within 2K miles after I stopped using it my exhaust brake pressures were normal again.

Closing in on 100K miles worth of 2 cycle oil usage and still zero issues... That includes the exhaust brake...

I told you so!!!!!!!:cool::cool::lol::lol:

Yeap... I got to admit Dorkweed being the lead man to get the 2 cycle oil craze started but after doing the study work on it... It really does work good... I've not lost any MPG's over it or performance...

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  • Staff

No I don't... But I've check the exhaust brake for full returns on the arm and so far it always opened up...:shrug:

Below 1500 rpms mine always engaged first time, every time. It was at higher rpms and air flow it would only close about 80%, then as soon as i down shifted or slowed down it would fully close. Not saying everyone will have the issue, but thats what mine did... I also noticed my soot in the tail pipe was "sticky" and harder to clean off when washing the truck.
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  • Staff

Hmmm... That's really odd... As for the sticky stuff I wonder if you not getting enough EGT to burn the oil off? Possibly over mixing? Poor brand of oil? :shrug:

Wally world oil, only 10oz per tank (416:1), and 3rd gens run pretty hot... I wouldn't ever move if I obeyed your 5psi and 600* rule.. On a 3rd gen its more like 5psi and 800-900*.
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I've been running AMSOIL Interceptor 2 stroke oil in every tank for a few years now on my '02. Clean, runs smoother and quieter, no issues. I also run AMSOIL Diesel Concentrate on top of that (for detergency), and in the winter I run the AMSOIL Diesel Concentrate with Cold Flow Improver (for detergency and anti-gel). 2 stroke oil works for ultimate lubricity, that's for sure! -Chuck

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If it is gumming up an exhaust brake, I wonder what it could do to the turbo?I have run maybe 10 fills with 100:1 and something is not right. There is a loss of power and the turbo seems a little louder when accelerating. It didn't happen until a 1000 mile trip heavily loaded.Still not sure what is to blame though. I have an apparent issue with the grid heater or something because the voltmeter will cycle, and the tach goes to near zero if under about 1400 RPM (all the time).This weekend I plan on reading the codes, and checking alternator output at idle and higher RPMI don't want to hijack this thread...will post in the appropriate place.

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I think I'm going to have to try this, since I always have some Amsoil Inteceptor for my 2-stroke bike anyways.My 6bt injection pump has developed a ticking sound at idle recently. I don't know if it is the kerosene that I ran through it or if it's the 212K on the odometer.

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I think I'm going to have to try this, since I always have some Amsoil Inteceptor for my 2-stroke bike anyways. My 6bt injection pump has developed a ticking sound at idle recently. I don't know if it is the kerosene that I ran through it or if it's the 212K on the odometer.

Mine has that same ticking sound. Only thing I can do to get it to not be as loud is run B20, which has ultra amounts of lube in it. I think it's the lift pump. Thought it might be an injector but the more I think about it and test things, I don't think it's an injector. One time it REALLY ticked, I mean like a ball peen hammer tick, it only happened at lower RPM's, below 2000 I think. I instantly topped off with B20 and it went away. The fact that it isn't a very fast tick makes me think it's the fuel pump, I believe it goes at half the RPM of the engine and runs off the cam. Not exactly sure why it would tick though. Tell me more about what you have noticed concerning it..
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makes me think it's the fuel pump, I believe it goes at half the RPM of the engine and runs off the cam. Not exactly sure why it would tick though. Tell me more about what you have noticed concerning it..

Mine is only at idle and when it is warmed up. It seems to be louder on the drivers side, so I'm almost certain it's the pump. At idle I'd say it ticks 1 or 2 times per second and as soon as you give it a little throttle it goes away. I just filled up, and only fill up about once a month. Do you think I could just add 2-stroke oil to the tank now or should it only be during fill-ups?
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Mine is only at idle and when it is warmed up. It seems to be louder on the drivers side, so I'm almost certain it's the pump. At idle I'd say it ticks 1 or 2 times per second and as soon as you give it a little throttle it goes away. I just filled up, and only fill up about once a month. Do you think I could just add 2-stroke oil to the tank now or should it only be during fill-ups?

During fillups is better but it will get mixed good the first time you hit the brakes. I searched around some more and people say it's the fuel pump or the overflow valve. If yours doesn't tick that much the 2 stroke might solve yours. Mine seems to be a bit too far down the road to catch up to, it just seems to help it not tick as loud.
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Wally world oil, only 10oz per tank (416:1), and 3rd gens run pretty hot... I wouldn't ever move if I obeyed your 5psi and 600* rule.. On a 3rd gen its more like 5psi and 800-900*.

I really don't understand what could be the problem with your truck. I religiously run 1/2oz per 1 gallon of diesel and have not had one problem. I sometimes skip a dose of 2 stroke if I'm on the road, but even then, no problems. When I first started using 2 stroke, I used 1oz per 1 gallon of diesel. I thinned the ratio out until I could hear a difference in the engine sound. That came out, for me, at the 1/2oz per 1 gallon diesel ratio that I recommend as a starting point for 3rd gen trucks. Mr. AH64ID, in mid-summer, at 90+ degrees, running empty, with the air on and in recirculate mode, running 65mph, my truck reads about 4-5psi boost and about 600 degrees EGT's if I'm not fighting the wind. My truck actually runs thru the air better with the air on and in recirculate mode than with the air off and fresh air running into the cab via the fan. In fact, when I drove down to my P's for Christmas, running 65mph, my EGT's were just above 500 degrees in low 20's weather bringing fresh air into the cab!!!! And here's the biggest surprise for you AH64ID........two years ago coming back from TX my buds Duramax broke down. I had to haul the big assed trailer (8'x26' with 3 big ATV's and gear in it) we took down there home from Bloomington, IL. It was 200+ miles of 5 guys in the cab, 3 dogs in the back, driving straight into a 30+mph North wind on I-39 in -10 degree weather. Just to maintain 60mph, my truck was pushing 20psi boost over level ground and would go to 30+psi on any incline. All that said, with the big load in the truck as well as the wall I was towing, I never saw EGT's over 1100 degrees. Over level ground, at 60mph, the EGT's were usually 800 or below. I don't know why my truck runs so cool and at the same time not experiencing the "GUMMING" issues you always bring up. I'm not arguing, I'm just saying too!!!!!:cool::2cents::2cents:
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During fillups is better but it will get mixed good the first time you hit the brakes. I searched around some more and people say it's the fuel pump or the overflow valve. If yours doesn't tick that much the 2 stroke might solve yours. Mine seems to be a bit too far down the road to catch up to, it just seems to help it not tick as loud.

I'll have to break out the stethoscope to pinpoint where it is coming from.
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