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Posted

Evening. I'm convinced, through extensive perusal of this and a few other forums, that I need a fuel pressure gauge. I do a fair bit of hauling of an 11,000 pound 26' fifth-wheel at speeds of 50-55mph out here in the mountains of the West. I'd appreciate the recommendation of a fuel pressure gauge. Thanks.

Posted

I use an Isspro mechanical gauge. Looks a lot like the rest of the stock gauges in the truck already. Have not had any problems with mine. You only need a gauge upto 30 psi. It was an easy install as well.

Posted

I'm relatively new here also. I decided on the DiPricol Mechanical 30 p.s.i. gauge. (like gassernomore said, you want to stay with a 30 p.s.i. gauge) I am not sorry that I bought the DiPricol, it looks to be well made and seems to be working flawlessly so far. Posted Image

Hood Latch

Posted

I've been running one of the older white faced DiPricols now for over 6 years and love it... Looks very much so like the stock gauges in the night.

Yeah, I liked that about them also. I went to their website www.danininc.com and clicked on the Optix link to take a look at them. It shows how each gauge look's during the day, and then how it is backlit for night. I got their chrome bezel with white face/aqua light. Very nice.
Posted

I wish I could make my Isspro mechanical gauge have the green glow that the Freightliner has when it is illuminated at night. I might just replace it with a pod of electric gauges, for fuel pressure, boost and pyro. But I have to make some green backs first. I will ask the vendors for a bid when I decide.

Posted

I also run a DiPricol 30 psi mechanical gauge. Just like Mopar1973Man, I don't bother with the isolator. After having two of them go bad, I run the fuel straight to the gauge using a needle valve. Works great!!

Posted

Just wondering, what went bad on the isolator? Diaphragm?

I believe it was the diaphragm but not completely sure. They were under warranty so I returned them.
  • Owner
Posted

I believe it was the diaphragm but not completely sure. They were under warranty so I returned them.

Typical... I head the pancake style was common to fail at the diaphram... As for the cylinder style it seem to be holding up better but still I hear of people loosing anti-freeze out of the system and the gauge fall on it face... As for direct connect I've been plumbed this way now for over 6 years now and not a since issue... Other than breaking the tube off at the tap point...Usually it my big hand pushing parts or tools around and I'll break it right at the ferrule... :banghead: Ok... shut the valve... Drive to town spend a hole 10 cents for a ferrule and hook it up again... One of these day I'm going to have to replace that line and hide it better... Matter of fact I'm planning on getting some tubing from NAPA and a set of fitting from Vulcan and change my filter to vP44 line with the newer setup to elminate this problem... Put the tap on the bottom of the filter where it was in the first place out of the way...
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