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I could go with injectors first, I just figured it would be a smokey mess. Other than shaft play and exhaust leaks on the turbo is there anything else to look for. When I change the oil in a week or so I am going to check my turbo out. I don't want to buy injectors if the turbo is on its way out

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  • 2 weeks later...

In and out play for thrust bearing wear is worst. Then side to side shouldn't touch housing.

If you had a oil leak you'd know.

Good injectors and a timing box I like better than a comp/smarty stack.

If you really want to go all out do a hx35/h3bt or s472 .... twin turbo ....

But yeah start out with the stock turbo and go from there. Studs required .

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Speaking of head studs, if I am going to lay out the cash for some studs, 425's or 625's?  I realize the price difference but I am thinking the extra clamping force would be a bit of insurance to prevent blowing a head gasket.  Is the extra money for the 625's worth it?

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I would prefer a single that I could grow into and keep around 45 psi until I need a head gasket. I figured my truck will need one soon then I would do head studs. My hx35 will peg my 35 psi guage at 2200 rpm so I'm not sure where it is actually at. That has been my set up for almost two years. So im not really sure how much longer it will last

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  • 4 years later...
On 12/15/2014 at 8:22 AM, AH64ID said:

425 vs 625 depends compleatly on power goals. 425s work for most people.

The 425's can have more clamp force. I was told my a member of our nw bombers who is a machinist and runs a business said that 140 ft lbs is fine. And everyone around me runs them at that.

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