Brakes and Exhaust

[Hawkez]

My original plan was to change the front brake pads. I figured it would be a good idea to flush the brake fluid before removing the calipers, taking them apart and cleaning them and reinstalling them.  I started in the back and right out of the gates I hit a road block.  The bleeder valve on the rear cylinder was rusted tight and it sheared off when I tried force it.  Guess what?  The other side was the same way.  I replaced them both and in the process I sprung a leak in the middle of a brake line.  I replaced the brake line and FINALLY got moving with things.  I flushed the system fairly well and found a lot of sludge inside both calipers.  They did clean up nice and there was no noticeable scars or damage to anything.  The seal kit that I bought was the wrong kit.  My calipers don't have the two separate pistons, it is just one large piston.  It was late and I wasn't about to make a fourth parts run.  The seals did look good and I cleaned them up the best I could.  I would have much preferred to replace them.  I put everything together and it drove 100% better.  The shimmy was gone and I was home free.

 

A couple of days ago the shimmy started to come back, slowly, as I applied brakes.  Today, after I flushed the power steering I took it for a spin around the block and the shimmy was getting me worried and pissed off.  I can feel the steering wheel shake and there is a pulsing feel--only when I am pushing on the brakes.  I parked in my drive way and I could smell brake.  I stuck my head in the wheel well and the driver’s side was hot, the passenger’s side smelled/felt fine.  I would bet the farm that the caliper is sticking because after I put it back together last week the braking was smooth.  There isn't too much to a caliper and I don't want to buy a new one, however, could this be caused due to bad seals?  It is easy enough to remove and take apart but would I be better off just replacing the entire caliper?

 

Oh yeah, exhaust.  As I was under my truck farting around with brake lines last week I noticed that my tail pipe, right where it comes out of the muffler had completely rusted through and that last section is dangling on the hangers.  I was hoping that there would be enough metal to clamp or weld to rejoin the two sections, but there isn't.  I am sure I could replace the muffler and piece in a coupler for a fix, or would it be better and more cost effective to just install a new exhaust from the turbo to the back bumper.  Any product I should consider?

[Mopar1973Man]

As for the calipers you didn't clean the pistons up and check them for size? With all the seals out the pistons should drop to the bottom without being pushed. I typically tune each piston back to the bore using a fine grade of sandpaper and lightly sand the caked on brake fluid off the pistons. Little at a time check the piston to bore fit.

 

[MnTom]

The amount of exhaust you need to replace depends on the condition of it. I replaced the tail pipe a couple of times and had to find a 3"x4" increaser. After the third tail pipe rusted I finally went and replaced the exhaust. I got a smoking deal from a vendor I know and went from the turbo back with a 4". My only complaint is since I am getting older the noise when towing is somewhat louder than I would like. It is not bad mind you, but loud enough that there is no mistaking the sound when towing.

[Dieselfuture]

If it shimmy's my guess is warped rotor or rotors. One thing to make sure when you put then back is there is nothing on surface of rotor where it touches hub, and nothing on hub. anything that will make it wobble. If that don't help maybe need ne rotors.    

[Mopar1973Man]

Also make sure to tighten your lugs evenly. You can create a out of true rotor by uneven torquing of the lugs. Rotors could be warped from previous brake drag.

[IBMobile]

 Be sure to torque all wheel nuts to 145 ft/lb. 134 ft/lb for a 2500. Some of the cars I work on will get a brake vibration if the nuts are not tighten down evenly and to the proper torque. 

[Mopar1973Man]

Hmmm... I've been using 120 ft/lbs on my truck so I could get the lugs loose when I do get a flat.

[MnTom]

145# is a touch over torque specs. The specs are 120 to 140 lbft torque. I have torqued mine to 120 lbft and have not had any issues what so ever, but then again I use a torque wrench on every wheel I pull and put back on.

[Mopar1973Man]

Same here...

[Dieselfuture]

Just remembered something too, one winter driving 4runner I had vibration in front, sometimes braking sometimes not. Anyway ended up being ice on inside of rims froze uneven.

[Hawkez]

Just remembered something too, one winter driving 4runner I had vibration in front, sometimes braking sometimes not. Anyway ended up being ice on inside of rims froze uneven.

I wish that were the case here.  it has been too warm for anything to ice up.  They are calling for temps around 60* by this weekend.