Teardown and Rebuild

[Mopar1973Man]

Thanks Nick.

 

Here are pics of the screen. It's just window or sliding door screen from home depot. My dad's 12v has had it on it since new and the whole front still looks new! Hopefully I can keep this condenser that way!

 

 

 

Got all packed up, checked every fluid and I'm ready to head out!

 

 

I know you got the screen cloth. But if that was aluminum screen like what I had I would not suggest putting against the coolers. It will rub holes in the A/C for sure and create leaks. If you using any metal screen put it to the grill not the coolers.

[TFaoro]

I know you got the screen cloth. But if that was aluminum screen like what I had I would not suggest putting against the coolers. It will rub holes in the A/C for sure and create leaks. If you using any metal screen put it to the grill not the coolers.

Exactly why I stayed away from the metal. The 96 still looks perfect with nothing worn.

[TFaoro]

So I've got some good and some bad news.

 

First for the good: My trip was a success. The truck ran really really well! I set the smarty to level 3 with all default settings. I could pull 35-37psi of boost and the egts easily stayed below 1200 driving normally. I ran it hard (pinned) up a steep (very steep!) hill in 5th when the trailer was empty to see what it would do. I started around 55 and let off at 85mph. Egts were just below 1300, boost was still at 35psi, and coolant temp was 202deg. We took the toll road around Denver running 78-80mph the whole way and never had any issues. Coolant temps settled down at 195 with the A/C blasted (Did I mention it was 95-98 deg the whole trip??) The next morning we loaded everything down... the front half of the trailer, including the nose, was packed from the floor to the ceiling with the large furniture and beds. The nose had boxes of lord knows what....The back half had the smaller furniture like dressers lamps ect. It must have weighed a decent amount because it squatted the truck. Scary part was I almost couldn't tell the difference between loaded and unloaded when accelerating. I sure felt it when braking though. We came back keeping the speed down to 70 with the same results as going up. I'm still impressed with how well the truck tows. So much power, egts stay cool, and the turbo spools wicked fast. All in all I'm very happy with the results. And to top it off I filled up at 14.2mpg... not bad for those speeds and a decent amount of weight.

 

 

So today I rolled over 1,550 miles since the rebuild. I pulled it into the shop cold and adjusted the valves. They were all pretty loose, meaning things must be seating in. I also changed the oil for the second time. That went well minus dropping the plug in the 190 deg oil   I'm also sick of the timing cover breather spitting on my diff, so I plugged it for now and ordered the block-off plug that takes the place of the breather. 

 

Since I had the intake tube off to change the filter I decided to give the system a pressure test and make sure there weren't any boost leaks. I heard one but was having trouble finding it. I thought it was the boots so I re-worked the clamps and no change. I pulled out the spray bottle with soapy water and coated everything.... turns out multiple rows of the intercooler are leaking where they enter the end tank   It's not a pin hole either... and the more pressure the faster it leaks. So now I'm stuck trying to find a used intercooler. I head back to school in a week, so if I don't find one ASAP I think I'll pull the trigger on a Mishimoto. I swear this truck is going to fight me until the day one of us dies 

Sorry for the long rant been a while since I've updated.

[CTcummins24V]

Spearco also, BD, HTT was having a sale the other day on 2nd gen intercoolers. In college, spending money on a Cummins is a much better investment than blowing your money on beer/at the bar.  

[Wild and Free]

Spearco also, BD, HTT was having a sale the other day on 2nd gen intercoolers. In college, spending money on a Cummins is a much better investment than blowing your money on beer/at the bar.  

I did both, spend tons of money on my rigs and beer/bars, But eventually that hunk of iron will be in a junk yard no matter the money you spent on it and you will have memories forever of the fun and friends you meet along lifes road. I will never regret the fun times and money blown on beer and bars when I was younger, some of my best memories.

[TFaoro]

Spearco also, BD, HTT was having a sale the other day on 2nd gen intercoolers. In college, spending money on a Cummins is a much better investment than blowing your money on beer/at the bar.  

Those are expensive!! I can't justify spending 1200+ on an intercooler.... And yes I'm not much of a drinker. Every now and then with the guys, but it's rare!

[Wild and Free]

And yes I'm not much of a drinker. Every now and then with the guys, but it's rare!

Probably due to the "contact" high everyone now has down there in Colo. lol.

[TFaoro]

You might be right... that rocky mountain high!

 

So a little update here. I picked up a set of 3rd gen 17in rims from a buddy. They are the steel ones that are chrome plated. I've got a set of 265/70/17 tires with about 1/4 tred and I'll be driving around 500 miles a week, so I don't want to wear out the nice Michelin tires.  First pic are the current rims, second pic is the new ones. I'll post shots of the truck before and after. I like the ones that are on it more though...

As for the intercooler it continues to leak. I MIGHT have found a used one out of a 12V for 100 bucks, but we'll see.

 

[TFaoro]

Doesn't look too bad with the new wheels, but I definitely like the "Laramie" wheels better. I finally got my dyno video uploaded too. Can you hear when the TST is flipped on?

 

 

[CSM]

So. What were your settings? How did they compare to pre rebuild?

[TFaoro]

So. What were your settings? How did they compare to pre rebuild?

That's a pre-rebuild video.... I don't know if my clutch/input will hold if I dyno it now.

Settings were smarty 7 with default adjustments and TST on 9

[CSM]

Whew. Scared me. I want to do my cam next year.

I was wondering how you got zero gains.

Regarding the clutch, thrash on... at least once you're done with school. I'll still split some dyno time with you in the spring.

Edited August 27, 2015 by CSM

[TFaoro]

Whew. Scared me. I want to do my cam next year.

I was wondering how you got zero gains.

Regarding the clutch, thrash on... at least once you're done with school. I'll still split some dyno time with you in the spring.

I still need to call on that to check pricing.... my PLAN is to have a pretty south bend dual disc 3250 and an input shaft in around Christmas time. Then get it broke in and dyno after that, but we'll see.

Another "plan" is to order a mishimoto intercooler within the next week or two. We'll see how that goes given my credit card information was borrowed by someone in California. If I can get that straightened out ASAP I should be good to go. 

[AH64ID]

Honestly unless you are very overfueled the peak gains may not show with a cam for much of the rpm band.  The low-mid thorttle gain are great with a cam and you really feel them on spool. With the cam you chose I would expect to see a little more on the top end assuming that you continue to fuel past 2800. 

 

Cam's are great but they don't always make a big difference on the dyno, but in real life nothing but grins!!

 

Dyno testing is really subjective anyhow. Did anyone read the towing turbo review where the Silver 62 won? Anyone who know the Silver 62 and how towing uses and engine/turbo combo knows that a Silver 62 is not a towing turbo but in a controlled dyno environment... well you get the picture. 

[CSM]

Need a brake or electric load type dyno... I can't recall the term for it.  I am not a fan of inertia dynos.  

 

One of my old employers hydraulic fracturing pumps would be easy.  They can absorb well over 3000 hydraulic horsepower.  All you need is a choke manifold, fluid tank, and appreciation of high pressure safety.      It would run good on water / glycol.  

 

4-6 big oilfield centrifugal pumps (4 ft tall ones) would work just as well, but it would take a LOT more volume and the loads could be more inconsistent.  

[Wild and Free]

After running a silver 62 for several years on my 02 auto with 3.55 gears while towing and sled pulling and a few drags both 1/8 and 1/4 mile,  I am convinced it would be an awesome towing turbo in a manual trans rig and especially with 410 gears where one can keep the rpms up higher and have better control over it versus a higher geared auto.

[AH64ID]

After running a silver 62 for several years on my 02 auto with 3.55 gears while towing and sled pulling and a few drags both 1/8 and 1/4 mile,  I am convinced it would be an awesome towing turbo in a manual trans rig and especially with 410 gears where one can keep the rpms up higher and have better control over it versus a higher geared auto.

Maybe with 4.10's and at low (<4000) elevations but even then I am not convinced. I know what elevation does to my BB turbo and the Silver 62 is a much laggier turbo.

Once spooled they move some air but they don't spool fast at mid range rpms.

[CSM]

As you've noted Bill, my smaller turbined 62 and tight torque converter doesn't tow off the line very well at GCVW.  Off the line heavy it requires a lot of fuel to start moving at any decent rate of acceleration.  

 

However, it drives amazing empty. I can idle around at 15mph. I just have to roll into it until I make about 10mph, then I don't smoke at all.  It is tight and fast with no lag.  

[TFaoro]

I am very overfueled.... haven't turned the TST above level 6 and don't need to until I get another turbo. It's just blowing raw fuel out the pipe. With the cam I chose I can tell a night and day difference at high rpm, and the turbo does spool faster. It spools now in 100* weather like it did in 10* weather last year. 

 

I chose the tighter housing and smaller wheel because of the altitude and because I DD it in the city sometimes. It tows great so no complaints here!

 

So I had a fantastic day.... I left for work at 4am and noticed a vibration going down the highway. There was also a bit of a chirp at low speeds sometimes. I limped it to my brother's house after work and crawled under it. There was a nice coating of transfer case oil on everything, so I was thinking something in the transfer case was broke. I checked the fluid, put a bit in and finished limping it home. I then could tell my U joint on the rear pinion was bad, just one cap. The vibrations caused the seal around the top of the T case to start leaking   Been fine the last 10k miles. O well so I pulled the T case out, resealed everything, drove the U joint out and re-installed the T case. I now see that I need a set of front brakes, and both front U joints are getting bad (One I knew about.) So now I'll be tearing that apart in the morning. Here's some pictures from tonight. 

 

 

 

[Buzzinhalfdozen]

Wierd that it always seems to just one cup that dries out on a joint. I've replaced a lot that look just like that.