My original nightmare dealer experience thread: https://mopar1973man.com/topic/11382-front-crank-seal-help-and-show-and-tell-of-what-the-dealer-did/

Tools Required

1. LocTite 620 ($12)

http://www.amazon.com/Loctite-234772-Temperature-Retaining-Compound/dp/B003T7UXUI/ref=sr_1_1?ie=UTF8&qid=1460479397&sr=8-1&keywords=loctite+620

2. Astro Bearing Race and Seal Driver ($40)

http://www.amazon.com/Astro-7824-Bearing-Driver-Master/dp/B00061SGFO?ie=UTF8&psc=1&redirect=true&ref_=oh_aui_detailpage_o00_s00

3. 1 Ton Press ($59.99 - 20% coupon)

http://www.harborfreight.com/1-ton-arbor-press-3552.html

4. Three M8 x1.25 120mm Long Bolts ($4 each).  Lowes carries them.  These will be used to align the timing cover and slide it home so you don't make a sloppy mess.  I also found a pack of 10 on amazon for $6.45

http://www.amazon.com/dp/B00A30JI7I/ref=biss_dp_t_asn

5. Razor blade scraper to remove old seal from gear housing

http://www.amazon.com/Hyde-Tools-13050-Scraper-Blades/dp/B000BPEPSC/ref=sr_1_4?ie=UTF8&qid=1460569550&sr=8-4

6. Sand paper (220 fine grit) to remove old seal bits from gear housing

7. Acetone to clean up gear housing

8. Piece of 2x4 or wood to bang on so you don't mess up the crank sleeve

Optional Tools:

Electric Torque Adapter ($56).  All shops should have these IMO.  Makes life easy.

http://www.amazon.com/ACDelco-ARM602-3-8-Inch-Measurement-Adapter/dp/B004VYUKTC/ref=sr_1_12?ie=UTF8&qid=1460478588&sr=8-12-spons&keywords=acdelco+electronic+torque&psc=1

Barring Tool ($34)

http://www.genosgarage.com/product/tool-ltbt/tools

Important Note About Tools:

Do yourself a favor and just buy the 1 ton press and seal driver set.  It is a lot cheaper than messing up a seal.  From the thread above, most people usually mess up at least one seal.

Parts Required

1. RTV Ultra Black.  Get the pressurized one like this.  Makes it so easy.

http://www.autozone.com/sealants-glues-adhesives-and-tape/rtv-adhesive/permatex-ultra-black-maximum-oil-resistance-rtv-silicone-gasket-maker/491386_0_0/

2. Cummins factory seal kit with sleeve ($50 to $124 depending on where you get it): 3802820

Parts Note:

3802820 Cummins Seal Kit can be had on ebay for for as little as $50 shipped.  You cannot buy them from the dealer.

Random Notes

1. Cummins installation tool sets the depth form the REAR of the timing cover

2. Everything is a 10mm except the crank pully is a 15mm

Torque Specs

Crank Pully/Balancer: 92ft/lbs

Fan Support Bracket: 18ft/lbs

Timing Cover Bolts: 18ft/lbs

Tear-Down Procedures

1. Remove the 4 nuts on top of the radiator to get positive battery cable out of the way

2. Remove the oil catch can on the bottom of the timing cover (just a 10mm nut that holds it on)

3. Disconnect gear case breather tube

4. Remove the upper radiator hose.  You will lose a little coolant... just a little bit, but it makes the job SOOOO much easier.

5. Remove the coolant overflow bottle.  There is a little "button" at about the middle of the back of the white plastic can that pops into a slot on the fan shroud.  Push that button in w/ something hard then pull up on the coolant overflow bottle.  Remove the little hose from the radiator to the coolant overflow bottle.

6. Remove the windshield wiper reservoir.  It is annoying to fight for space.  Easy to remove.  First pull up on it to remove it from the fan shroud.  Then disconnect two electrical connections from the bottom of the truck.  The lower one is to the wiper fluid motor.  You just pull and wiggle off the black connector to the fluid motor while supporting the fluid motor.  I am sure you can twist and pull out the whole motor assembly, but why mess with an old O-ring.  The low level connector which is slightly higher on the bottle is a standard clip you pull back and pull down on the connector.  Remove the hose to the bottle.  Remove the reservoir from the top.

7. Remove the accessory/serpentine belt.  Put a 3/8" socket and breaker bar (or actual breaker bar) into the hole on the front of the tensioner (see image below) and rotate left relieving tension while pulling off the belt.

8. Loosen the fan shroud.  There are two clips on the top of the radiator.  Two bolts on each side of the radiator.  Then lift up as there are two tabs the shroud sits in on the bottom of the radiator.

9. Remove the 4 bolts to the fan hub.  One is blocked and you cannot remove, but you can unscrew and the fan hub will come off.  I personally had to grind down a 10mm closed wrench to fit inbetween the space of the back of the fan pully and engine block. An open wrench started to strip the nut.

10. Lift the fan and fan shroud out in one piece.  Thank me for removing your upper radiator hose first. 

11. Remove the front crank pully/balancer (4 bolts).  You may need a barring tool.  Geno's Garage has them for 34 dollars as noted above.  Even without a baring tool I had my neighbor attach a wrench to one of the four bolts while I loosened the other three.  Then we tightened back one of the three I loosened and broke the last one.

12. Remove the timing cover bolts.  Two of them are threaded studs.  They simply remove just like any other bolt.  To get the timing cover off I used a heat gun to loosen the ultrablack gasket in there and used a pry bra from the top of the cover to start to pop the thing off.  I recommend marking on the front of the timing cover where the long bolts and studs go.  It will make life easier when you are trying to re-assemble. You can't see my markings b/c I marked under the bolt in silver marker.

13. Clean the gear housing surface with a razor blade scraper, sand paper, and some acetone.  Ensure it is super clean and oil free.  Clean out any gunk in the bolt holes. I threaded a screw in each hole to ensure I wouldn't have any issues when it came time to install the timing cover as the dealer got the holes filled with RTV.

14. Clean and inspect the crank nose before sleeving. It must be perfectly clean and dry.  Clean with acetone and grind down/buff any burs. The dealer used a seal puller and put huge gouges into my crank nose which caused high sharp burs.  I ground them down with a dremel and polished them with some jewelers compound.

Your gear casing should look as clean as this before you even attempt to RTV down a new one:

Sleeve Install Procedure

This is the sleeve.  It is metal. 

The outside of it on both size are NOT beveled.

ONE side on the INSIDE is beveled.  The beveled portion goes IN TOWARDS the engine to help assist it sliding over the crank nose.  I called cummins to confirm this.

I did not get pictures of the next steps but here are the procedures:

1. Put LocTite 620 on the inside of the sleeve

2. Clean up the crank nose with acetone and ensure there are no sharp burs (should have been done above)

3. Put more LocTite 620 on the crank nose

4. Place the sleeve onto the crank nose with the bevel facing inward towards the engine

5. Put the wood block on the front of the sleeve and whack it a few times with a hammer.  Get it on about 1/4 to 1/2 the way.  It will get hard to move if not impossible.

6. THE MAGICAL STEP: Go get your crank pully/damper and the 4 15mm bolts.  Put the crank pully in front of the sleeve and put in all 4 bolts as if you are trying to install the crank pully.  Finger tighten all 4 bolts up to the sleeve.  In a clockwise motion around the 4 bolts, turn each bolt 1 turn until the pully bottoms out on the crank nose.  Boom... no tool required.  No frustrated banging.  No messing up the sleeve.  Remove the crank pully.

Seal Install Procedure

This is the cummins seal install tool that comes in the sleeve kit.  It is meant to set the depth from the BACK of the timing cover.

To set the dept, the rounded nose portion of the cummins tool goes DOWN from the back of the timing cover.  It will not hit the teflon seal.  Just ride the edges.

The seal press kit I mentioned above fits perfectly into the cummins install tool

Again I didn't get pictures of me pressing in the seal, but this is what I found after much research and destroying one expensive seal.  Both cummins-b and mopar service manuals say install the seal from the back.  The seal CAN be installed from the front while the cover is on the engine, but it is a royal PITA from what I hear.   Just because you can do something, doesn't mean you should.  This is what the dealer did to my crank nose trying to install from the front.

I found when I tried to install from the front, the cummins seal with a new timing cover was so tight that the timing cover shaved off metal from the seal. 

This is how I did it:

1. Put the timing cover with it's back down to my bench

2. Remove the plastic seal guide/protector

3. Put LocTite 620 on the inside of the timing cover and around the outside of the seal.  DO NOT get any on the teflon seal itself.

4. Install the seal crooked from the front.  I put one side about 50% of the way down through the hole in the timing cover.

5. Put the appropriately sized seal die onto the front of the seal (this is the side w/ the little arrow showing clockwise directional rotation.)  Since once side of the seal is below the lip of the timing cover, the die will not slide around. 

6. Use the 1 ton press to press down on the high side of the die.  With a lot of squeaking and pressure it will go in.  Don't try to press down directly on the seal.  I tried this and wound up with a bent seal.  Hence, use the die.

7. Once the high end is down into the timing cover about 4mm, flip the cover over

8. Put the die into the cummins installer tool like I have pictured above

9. Pushing again on the high side of the seal, slowly work it down into the timing cover with the press

10.  Re-install plastic guide/protector from the back (teflon side) so that the wide opening of the seal is going to go onto the crank nose

Eventually everything will bottom out and you will have a properly depthed seal with the cummins tool pressed on by the die/press.

A note about depth, since you are sleeving your crank, it doesn't really matter as long as you are on the new sleeve.  Optimally you want the new seal to be anywhere from flush with the front of the cover to 1/4 into it.

ALTERNATIVE SEAL INSTALL METHOD

You can go to autozone.  Buy a 3" O.D./ 3" I.D. muffler coupling ($2.99) which is the perfect size for the front of the seal and use that and a piece of wood to try to pound it in.  I couldn't even get mine started when I tried it and had to go out and buy a press.  You can be like me and try to save money and do this method first, but you will kick yourself for damaging an expensive seal.

Re-Install Procedure

1. Clean all the old seal off the timing cover with a razor blade and acetone

2. Use some fine sand paper to scuff up the surface.  If it is slick the ultrablack will just slide around.  Clean with acetone.

3. Apply a bead of ultrablack in the groove on the rear of the timing cover.  Go fully around each bolt hole.
 

4. Take the M8x1.25 bolts I suggested above and use them as guides to hold and guide the timing cover in square.  You can do it without, but it is a real PITA to get things aligned.  With this method I didn't get RTV on a single bolt nor did I have to move the cover around at all.

Picture of the location for each bolt.  Obviously take them out and thread them through the cover one at a time like the next picture.

5. Slide the cover on, but don't moosh it on.  Just make contact.  Otherwise you will moosh seal into the bolt holes and get rtv on your bolt threads.  You may have to push hard to get the seal to move over the crank nose and off the plastic guide.  This is ok. 

6. Per ultrablack instructions, finger tighten all the timing cover bolts.  Let the cover sit for 1 hour.  Torque to spec - 18ft/lbs.

7. Remove plastic protection sleeve.  You don't want to do this before letting it sit for an hour b/c the cover will move back slightly when torqued and move the seal along the crank nose.  You want that puppy to get on the crank nose and never move again.

8. I used my baring tool to turn over the crank (turn left so the crank goes right) twice.  This allows the teflon seal to mate with absolutely zero oil in the crank case.

9. Per ultrablack, do not put the vehicle in service for 24 hours. 

I let the truck sit for 8 hours on a 75 degree day then let it run for 15 minutes.  The ultrablack was hard before I chose to start the engine.  The next day I let the truck run for 30 minutes while topping off my coolant with a bubbler.

This is a good video I used to make this write-up.  The kid however wants $100 to rent his tool with a $400 deposit.  If you are going to spend $100, buy a press and die set like above which is less than $100. Then you will have tools you can use over and over.  You don't need a tool to put the sleeve on the crank.  Just use the fly wheel like I posted above.

Use this article to diagnose driveability problems existing when a hard Diagnostic Trouble Code (DTC) is not present.

Engine Difficult To Start Or Will Not Start
(Exhaust Smokes While Cranking)

• Check for low fuel level.
• Check for low battery voltage.
• Check for plugged fuel filter.
• Check for poor quality or improper grade of fuel.
• Check fuel tank venting.
• Check for low fuel pressure.
• Check for air in fuel system.
• Check for fuel lift pump malfunction.
• Check for fuel inlet restriction.
• Check for kinked or restricted fuel line.
• Check for kinked or restricted fuel return passage or fuel return line.
• Check for incorrect injectors.
• Check for incorrect injector shim thickness.
• Check for injector malfunction.
• Check for fuel connector leaking fuel.
• Check for engine speed sensor and/or circuit malfunction.
• Check for moisture in harness connectors or corroded terminals.
• Check for internal engine damage.
• Check for air intake restriction.
• Check for exhaust restriction.
• Check for fuel inlet temperature too high.
• Check valve lash adjustments.
• Check for ignition switch output voltage low and/or open.
• Check starting accessories for cold weather such as engine block heaters or fuel heaters (if equipped).
• Check fuel pump overflow valve.
• Check for low engine cranking speed.
• Check for electrical noise.

Engine Difficult To Start Or Will Not Start
(No Exhaust Smoke While Cranking)

• Check for low fuel level.
• Check for poor quality or improper grade of fuel.
• Check for plugged fuel filter.
• Check fuel tank venting.
• Check for low fuel pressure.
• Check for air in fuel system.
• Check for fuel lift pump malfunction.
• Check for fuel inlet restriction.
• Check for fuel injection pump supply voltage open or low voltage.
• Check for kinked or restricted fuel inlet line.
• Check for kinked or restricted fuel return passage or fuel return line.
• Check for incorrect injectors.
• Check for incorrect injector shim thickness.
• Check for injector malfunction.
• Check for fuel connector leaking fuel.
• Check for engine speed sensor and/or circuit malfunction.
• Check for moisture in harness connectors or corroded terminals.
• Check for Sentry Key Immobilizer Module (SKIM) issues.
• Check for low battery voltage.
• Check for ignition switch supply voltage low or open.
• Check for electrical noise.
• Check fuel injection pump.
• Check ECM.
• Check for internal engine damage.

Engine Surges At Low Or High Idle

• Check for low fuel level.
• Check for plugged fuel filter.
• Check for poor quality or improper grade of fuel.
• Check for fuel tank venting malfunction.
• Check for low fuel pressure.
• Check for air in fuel system.
• Check for fuel lift pump malfunction.
• Check for restricted fuel inlet.
• Check for kinked or restricted fuel inlet line.
• Check for kinked or restricted fuel return line.
• Check for incorrect injectors.
• Check for incorrect injector shim thickness.
• Check for malfunctioning injectors.
• Check for leaking fuel connection.
• Check for faulty fuel injection pump.
• Check for malfunctioning or out of calibration accelerator pedal.
• Check for damaged vibration damper.
• Check for engine speed sensor and/or circuit malfunction.
• Check for vehicle speed sensor and/or circuit malfunction.
• Check for incorrect transmission clutch operation.
• Check for dragging brakes.
• Check for transmission malfunction.
• Check for cooling fan cycle time malfunction.
• Check for turbocharger malfunction.
• Check for Bus communication malfunction.
• Check for moisture in harness connectors or corroded terminals.
• Check for internal engine damage.
• Check for electrical interference (noise).
• Check for excessive load at idle.
• Check for incorrect or malfunctioning clutch.

Engine Surges Under Load Or Operation Range

• Check for low fuel level.
• Check for plugged fuel filter.
• Check for poor quality or improper grade of fuel.
• Check for fuel tank venting malfunction.
• Check for low fuel pressure.
• Check for air in fuel system.
• Check for fuel lift pump malfunction.
• Check for fuel inlet restriction.
• Check for kinked or restricted fuel inlet line.
• Check for kinked or restricted fuel return line.
• Check for incorrect injectors.
• Check for incorrect injector shim thickness.
• Check for malfunctioning injectors.
• Check for leaking fuel connection.
• Check for malfunctioning or out of calibration accelerator pedal.
• Check for engine speed sensor and/or circuit malfunction.
• Check for vehicle speed sensor and/or circuit malfunction.
• Check for incorrect transmission clutch operation.
• Check for dragging brakes.
• Check for transmission malfunction.
• Check for cooling fan cycle time malfunction.
• Check for turbocharger malfunction.
• Check for Bus communication malfunction.
• Check for moisture in harness connectors or corroded terminals.
• Check for internal engine damage.

Excessive Black Smoke

• Check for dirty or plugged air filter.
• Check for restricted/leaking air intake system.
• Check for DTCs set or intermittent DTC malfunctions.
• Check for ECM or PCM not calibrated properly.
• Check for exhaust system restriction greater than specification.
• Check for poor fuel quality.
• Check for fuel injection pump malfunction.
• Check for fuel injector malfunction or leak.
• Check for fuel return system restriction.
• Check for intake manifold restriction.
• Check for manifold air pressure (boost) sensor circuit malfunction.
• Check for raw fuel inside intake manifold.
• Check for turbocharger air intake restriction.
• Check turbocharger for excessive carbon build-up on compressor wheel and/or diffuser vanes, wheel
  clearance out of specification or damage

Excessive Blue Exhaust Smoke

• Check for dirty or plugged air filter.
• Check for air intake system restriction.
• Check for air leak in intake between turbocharger and intake manifold.
• Check for restricted exhaust.
• Check for restricted turbocharger drain tube.
• Check for plugged crankcase ventilation.
• Check for worn or defective valve stems, guides or seals.
• Check for improperly gapped, worn or broken piston rings.
• Check for excessive cylinder bore wear.
• Check for cylinder damage.
• Check for piston damage.
• Check for turbocharger failure.

Excessive White Exhaust Smoke

• Check for air in fuel system.
• Check for coolant leak into combustion chamber.
• Check for DTCs set or intermittent DTC malfunctions.
• Check for block heater malfunction in cold weather.
• Check for engine coolant temperature sensor malfunction.
• Check for ECM not calibrated properly.
• Check for clogged or defective fuel filter.
• Check for poor fuel quality.
• Check for fuel heater or fuel heater temperature sensor malfunction.
• Check for malfunctioning or loose fuel injector.
• Check for fuel injection pump malfunction.
• Fuel injector restricted or blocked fuel injection or supply lines.
• Check for fuel transfer pump malfunction.
• Check for Intake/exhaust valves not adjusted properly (tight).
• Check for intake manifold heaters or intake manifold air temperature sensor malfunction.
• Check for internal engine damage.

As promised. I forgot to take pictures yesterday when I did this, plus I did it a slightly different way than the way I am going to explain. My gauge I have had for years, I drilled the check valve out WAY bigger than when it came from snap on. This way, I can do a check without the rockers on...... Anyway.

You will need to get your hands on.
1. A compression test gauge suitable for a diesel engine's high compression. I have a snap-on MT 33 B, as well as a C model. Both are good for 800 PSI. And use standard 1/4" snap in quick connect air tool fitting.
2. A compression test adapter. Looks like an injector and fits where the injector goes. For the ISB (98-2007 in Dodge's) you can use either the Snap On Adapter: Stock#: EEPV313A or the Miller Tools # 9007. About 100 bucks for the snap on and 160 for the Miller.

MT33B:

Snap on adapter:

Miller Tools adapter:

Both are good quality and use the same 1/4" snap-in style fitting. However, with the 98-02 motors you are going to have to remove the exhaust rocker arm to facilitate removal of the injector hold down shoulder bolt, which I will detail later. If you get the snap on adapter, you do not have to do this step on the 98-02 Dodge motors.

First thing you are going to want to do before you forget, like I do EVERYTIME!!! is to:
1. Disconnect power from the fuel lift pump.
2. Might as well remove the injector pump relay from the PDC box.

Now you can get down to it...
1. Follow Mopar1973Man's directions for replacing the fuel injectors. [Remove the high pressure fuel lines, valve cover, intake, etc etc. You are wanting to get down to having no injectors in the motor at all] If you have a common rail motor or have a 98-02 and are using the Miller #9007 adapter, keep track of which cylinders your exhaust rockers go to, that way you don't have to worry too much about readjustment of rocker lash after you reinstall them for the compression test.
-Start with cylinder number 1.
-Stuff a rag down into the injector bores like I can never seem to remember to do!!!!

2. If you have a 98-02, remove the 10MM head flange bolt from the rocker pin of the exhaust rocker lever. Carefully lift the rocker lever off the pedestal, being careful not to let the pin slide out. If you have a common rail, your exhaust rocker lever is already off to have the injectors removed!! On the 98-02's you have to remove the exhaust rocker and are using the miller gauge because of this! Can't access the back bolt with that rocker on there. Why you gotta pull that rocker to pull the injectors on a common rail.

3. Remove the 8MM head injector hold down shoulder bolt from cylinder 1 if you are using the Miller Tools adapter #9007 and have a 98-02. If using snap on, please skip step 2 and step 3 on the 98-02 motors. On common rail, you will already have the exhaust rocker off, so just take your 2 8mm bolts and bolt the adapter down.

4. Inspect injector bore for debris, if any is present, clean it out!

5. Stick the compression test adapter down into the injector bore being mindful to the direction of the snap in style quick connect fitting is pointing.

6. FOR MILLER TOOLS 9007 ONLY: Take another regular 8MM head injector hold-down bolt from one of your other cylinders and use it in concert with the regular hold down bolt to bolt down your compression test adapter fitting into the injector bore.
(these are just the full thread bolts that you remove when you pull your injectors, 6 of them on a 98-02 and 12 of them on a common rail.

7. Reinstall the exhaust rocker for number 1. Ensuring that you have not screwed around with the adjuster nut for the valve lash and that you used the proper rocker arm you removed from that cylinder, it should be ok as is.

8. Hook er up.

9. Ensure that everything has been removed from the high pressure fuel system-feed lines, fuel pump is not powered up!!!, relay is removed from PDC, and you are absolutely certain your valve lash is set properly and the 10MM head rocker lever hold down bolts are TIGHT (YOU DONT WANT TO SCREW THAT UP AND HAVE IT WHERE A PISTON CAN SLAP A VALVE, THAT WILL BEND PUSHRODS!)

10. Bump the motor over for about 10 seconds, and record that compression reading on a piece of paper.

Do this for the rest of the cylinders.

No published numbers for the compression specs. Lot of variables come into play... If you have altered the motor in some way, different pistons in race motors (decompressed) etc, your numbers will be lower. 16.3: 1 motors like the auto tranny motors that are SO, they will be slightly lower than the common rails and the HO 01 and 02 motors that have 17:1 compression ratios. All in all, you are really going to have to look at this on an individual basis..

In general, you are going to want to see at least 375 psi all across the board. In real life, 9/10 when you check a motor that runs good it will be above 400 , 450 500 psi depending on the motor. Shouldn't see too much of a variance between two adjacent cylinders, if you do it is often indicative of a head gasket combustion leak. Normal to do both a leak down and a compression test if you are trying to find a problem.

ALSO. If you don't have the gauge and you have the adapter, you can do what is called a LEAK DOWN TEST. You would just hook up your air compressor to the compression adapter and set it for 100 PSI or so. NOTE: This will only work if you are on the compression stroke (BOTH VALVES CLOSED) and you have some way to hold the motor, like a barring tool for the flywheel!. If you don't, depending on what stroke the cylinder you are testing is at, it will try to spin over when you put the air to it. With this test, you can listen and see if you have a leak and can figure it out by listening. IF you do have a leak, take a oil can with a flexible dispenser straw, small enough to fit down into the injector bore hole, and oil around the edge of the cylinder wall to seal the top keystone ring. Put the air to it, if your leak sound stops, then its your rings. If it doesn't then you got something else wrong and probably need to pull the head.

After you are done, hook everything back up and get er' done.

People been asking for me to redo this article so here it is.

Supplies you'll need...

• 1 stick of 1/2" PVC pipe (minimum of 57" long)
• 3 - 1/2" PVC elbows slip to slip
• 1 - 1/2" PVC elbow slip to NPT (male or female)
• 1 - 1/2" PVC straight connector slip to NPT (male or female)
• 3" piece of 3/4" heater hose
• 2 hose clamps
• 1 Small can of PVC glue
• Hacksaw
• Sharpie black marker
• Tape measure
• Can of spray paint
• 1 Zip tie 6" long

Cut measurements

• 3" Heater hose
• 4 1/2" front down pipe
• 2 1/4" front cross pipe
• 24" long pipe
• 5" rear cross pipe
• 20 1/2" rear down pipe

NOTE: These measure are my final cut measurements. I suggest cutting a tad long and adjusting as you see fit for your truck.

So at this point you should have all your materials to assemble. You should assembly your cut pipe and fittings dry without glue and test fit everything. While test fitting be sure to remove all plastic cuttings from the ends of the pipes. Also when test fitting be sure to bottom out all pipes into the fittings. In the supply list I list PVC elbow and a straight connector (male or female) this is totally up to you. You can do either way as long as you have a male and female connection in the end.

Now during my test fitting I was very careful to get the front section of pie back far enough so its not in contact with the upper radiator hose.

On the rear section you have to be careful of the angle of your down pipe. I've got mine resting on the very tip of the bellhousing. Now that you fairly happy with your fit. Take a Sharpie marker and mark all the elbow positions with a fine line from the elbow to the pipe to note position. This way you can glue the pieces back together in the proper angles. When gluing all the pieces together be sure once again to bottom out all your pipes into the fittings.

At this point you will want to stuff your 3" piece of heater hose on the front pipe. Need at least 1" of heater hose on the PVC pipe for clamping.

Now take a rag and a bit of paint thinner or lacquer thinner and wipe all the oil and grime off the pipe assembly. Now take a can of spray paint of the wanted color. It's best to get a spray paint that is chemically correct for plastics. 

So you should have a completed Crankcase vent pipe for your truck now. All you have to do is lay it back up on top. Make sure you have your 2 hose clamps on before installing. Slip the heater hose over the crankcase vent nipple. Using the one zip tie tie the rear cross pipe to the top of the hoist ring. Carefully slide the down pipe down and screw on to the rear fitting. 

Opps. the Paint was completely cured. 

first get a valve compression tool that is for the 24v head.

remove injector hold down bolt

bolt base of tool to the injector hold down bolt holes snug is fine

place top of tool on springs centering over valve stems

with the greased nut, tighten tool down until all the valve stem keepers are retrievable

many times the valve seat will stick to the keepers and will need to be broken loose with a socket and hammer to free them (see in video)

pull keepers keys (2 halves) with a magnet and place on a template for each valve (do not mix any parts to other valves)

loosen tool and remove plate

take springs and keeper seats off and place in there designated holder

with pliers, grip and twist and pull the old seals off

clean seal seats as there will be crud under them from oil and soot

yellow seals are intake14mm deepwell socket to drive these

green seals are exhaust 13mm deepwell socket to drive these

replace yellow for yellow and green for green after cleaning seal seats on head

place each spring and keeper seats back to original positions and ensure they are seated in the head properly (not sitting on a machined lip)

then pull on each valve stem to make sure they are all the way up

place tool plate back on and centered

place nut back on the tool and torque down to where you are able to place the keepers back in

once keepers are put into the "keeper pocket" push the valve down a little to get the keepers to grab the valve stem (may need to elevate the head a bit to get clearance to do this)

when all keepers are preset, untorque the tool and watch the springs to ensure they grab the keepers and they sit in the pocket properly

when pressure is off remove top of tool and remove bottom of tool

re-install injector hold down bolt with a dab of BLUE loctite

inspect all 4 valves for proper re-installation

done

if valves are to be replaced or different springs are to be replaced it is the same steps outlined above. for more details please watch video below.

http://youtu.be/BpSH_BzKq6k

So you should be to this point if you have done all the work on the link above. So we'll continue to remove the tappet cover and replace the tappet cover gasket on the driver side of the engine. On my truck, the leak is very minor but I want to get this resolved before it gets worse. Being I'm already replacing a VP44 it just a good time to do the tappet cover gasket and fix that oil leak.

You need to remove the two 15mm bolts for the rear hoist ring. This is so you can gain access to the #6 injection line nut at the rear of the head.

Now you need to remove the two 10mm bolts holding the 3,5,6 injection rails. This is so you can remove the 3,5,6 from the intake.

Now there is a 8mm bolt holding the dipstick tube. This caught me off guard so don't forget to remove this 8mm bolt for the dipstick tube.

Now loosen the 3,5,6 injection line from the head.

Lift the 3,5,6 injection lines from the engine. Place them somewhere clean.

Take the two 10mm bolts out holding the fuel filter housing. Then lay the fuel filter over out of the way. This might require removing the fuel lines if you still have hard lines yet.

Now remove the three 10mm bolts holding the ECM to the tappet cover.  Lay it over as well toward the driver side fender.

Now you need to remove the 10mm bolt on the rear most holding the return line. Then there are three 16mm standoffs bolts you need to remove. Then three 10mm bolts.

You may need to lightly pry on the cover to break the seal loose from the block. Be careful not to drop or break the rubber seal into the engine while doing this. It should lift out. 

Now take some brake cleaner and a rag and wash down the tappet cover and clean the edge. I use a gasket tack for the edge of the cover. I had to quickly put the gasket on so it would tack it together to prevent it from slipping off. Make sure the large tab is in the front and the flat side of the tab is point outwards. The thicker side should be towards the engine. Also watch for the FRONT mark on the tappet cover. 

Install. Make sure to put the right bolt in the right spots. I did not use any sealants on the face of the gasket. I highly do not suggest using RTV or gasket sealant on the mating face of the tappet cover gasket. This will most likely cause issues in the future.

Just reverse the process to assemble.

Lift the engine carefully watching the fan and clearance of everything. Once the engine is lifted remove all the 10mm bolts in the oil pan. Using a putty knife pry the pan free from the block. There will be plenty of room to slide the pan around and loosen the two 10mm bolts that hold the pickup tube on the driver side of the block and then the two bolts in the flange of the pickup tube.

At this point, there is nothing holding the pan in place, and should about fall out the rear of the engine. You will be able to scrap the bottom of the block clean with a putty knife and then scrap and wash the oil pan clean.

The gasket I used was from NAPA. The oil pickup tube part of the gasket is perforated so it can be cut free from the main oil pan gasket. I opted to do so because I wanted to glue the pan gasket to the pan using grey RTV silicone. Then a thin coat of grey RTV on the pickup tube flange too. Once it is mostly cured up you can place the pickup tube in the pan and slide it back into position. You are going to install the pickup tube bolts first and mount them all back together this will help in holding the oil pan in place again. Now you can start hand installing all the pan bolts back into the oil pan and hand torque them once all the bolts are installed. 

Firstly, have all your parts cleaned and prepped, identified and ready to fully assemble.

Seals, front and rear mains. Drive your seals in with the tools provided in the cummins kits. the rear is easier and the open end goes towards front. The front main is a PITA but once you get it driven as far as the tool will let you it will hold. Leave the install sleaves in them, if you have to remove them pull them out and to replace them just kinda fold them onto itself then put it inside the seal to install.

Driving the seal in from the rear of the seal housing. Hammer it down in small increments

Drive the seal in until the tool bottoms out evenly along the rim.

how it will look on the backside

next is piston assembly. I didnt get pics of the assembly but its easy.

Assemble each piston fully one at a time with rod, wrist pins/c-clips, rings.

the rings go in order of installation (bottom to top of piston)

1. oil ring (3 piece) lower flat ring then oil waffle ring then upper flat ring (stagger gap 120 deg)

2. scraper ring FOLLOW PRODUCT ORIENTATION there will be a marking or dot showing UP. Use ring installer and open ring enough to place into groove without scraping piston.

3, compression ring (see info above)

Also prep the crank and ensure it is PERFECTLY clean ZERO debris on journals.

Next is block prep.

Install 6 oil cooler jets with a punch gently tapped into place to hold them. ensure they are free of debris.

Then with a air hose blow the seats of the upper main bearings clean and the back of the upper main bearing then place down immediately to ensure no dust gets between the surfaces. Repeat for all mains and ensure proper orientation. Thrust bearing goes on #6 main journal seat.

Inspect to make sure ALL jets are in place and all bearings are clean with a spray of air.

liberal use of assembly lube of your choice is to be placed on bearing faces and smeared around to get it on the whole bearing.

Setting the crank

Blow out all the passages of the oil galleys in the crank and blow the crank journals clean.

With TWO people GENTLY lay the crank into the mains EVENLY and apply more lube on the journals. (i used cat 5 cable as a harness to hold the crank on a journal as i lowered it in, worked well)

Spin the crank just enough to ensure proper seating into the bearings and visually inspect that is is seated in all bearings.

Bearing cap install

with each clean cap, blow clean to ensure no dust is present, also on back of lower main bearing, mate the two together. Lube with assembly lube and place on block in proper orientation.

Put the same cap on where it came off of. Using machine oil on the threads and hand thread them in. (torque later) Repeat for all bearing main caps.

once all caps/bearings are placed, torque to spec in the pattern required. (will get specs and pattern later)

Piston install/rod cap install

prelube each bore with machine oil to ensure no scraping and ease of installment

two people make this work better. with assembled piston place the ring compressor over all rings just past the oil rings and gently insert into bore with proper orientation until the ring compressor sits against the deck. then with a hammer, place the handle on the center of the crown and hold pressure against the piston while tapping it with your hand to push it into the bore until the ring compressor comes off STOP HERE. place a rod bearing on the rod then lube well and have your friend hold the end of the rod and guide it onto the crank as you push the piston in with the hammer handle in small increments until it seats.

Rod cap install

place lower rod bearing onto cap and lube well then place onto crank in proper orientation and hand tighten. Repeat piston install and rod cap install for each piston. Then torque to 74ft/lb in 3 steps (will get info later)

front gear housing install

i placed gasket shellac on the housing surface then place the gasket on then coated with shellac and mated to the block. All bolts are torqued 18ft/lb and blue loctight  now is a good time to inspect the killer dowel pin issue. My cover didnt need it.

cam install/thrust plate install

lube cam very well and without scoring the cam bearing insert cam into block and mate the cam to the crank via the markings you see above. crank has one dot cam has two dots for this mate.

thrust plate install

with cam installed and aligned, slide thrust plate in behind cam (pull cam out slightly) then place both bolts in with blue loctight and torque to 18ft/lb

oil pump install

place oil pump onto block face and hand tighten all 4 bolts with blue loctight then in criss cross pattern torque to 18ft/lb

injection pump gear install as well with timing mark on the cam as seen below.

gear housing cover install

with shellac on the gasket surface place gasket on cover then coat with more shellac. place the cover over the front main of the crank and align then push the install sleeve onto the crank, then push the cover onto the crank. the sleeve will fall off, start bolting to 18ft/lb and blue loctight.

rear main seal install

shellac the surface of the housing then place gasket and shellac more, align and push install sleeve onto crank, then push the cover over the crank and the sleeve will fall off. torque i think is 18ft/lb

(take block off stand to do this then put back on stand afterwards)

water pump and fan pulley install

blue loctight all bolts to 18ft/lb ensure surfaces are clean for water pump rubber oring (square oring) install fan serpentine pulley onto mount. blue loctight

oil pickup tube

install with shellac on both sides of gasket or not, torque to 18ft/lb and blue locktight

oil pan install

shave rear main gasket with razor blade smooth to the block along with the front housing gasket. shellac the surface of the block then place oil pan gasket and shellac more. place oil pan down and torque all bolts with blue loctight to 18ft/lb

oil cooler and water outlet /ac compressor bracket install

using the proper gaskets for the oil cooler DO NOT SHELLAC, bolt the oil cooler to the block and torque to 18ft/lb and blue loctigt, then bolt the water outlet/compressor bracket to 32ft/lb i think and blue loctight.

pushrod side cover

place rubber gasket with proper orientation (tab should be facing out and pointing forward) then bolt down to 18ft/lb and blue loctight

vacuum pump install

bolt bracket to block and torque then set pump into housing and bolt down tight to housing. install oil feed line and tighten

bracket and oil line

install oil pressure sensor

install cam position sensor

install block oil hole cover thingy. use shellac then tighten

install OEM lift pump bracket (or block off plate) with gasket and shellac, torque 18ft/lb

head gasket

i coated my headgasket with permatex copper spray then set down on the deck and aligned.inspect to ensure no forign debris is in pistons. (blow out with air before putting down gasket)

laying the head down

again, visually inspect no debris is in the pistons. with two people in one shot gently lay head down and align with guide dowels

bolting the head down/valve train install and adjustment

with machine oil lube the threads and hand thread to stop for all bolts. torque in sequence in 3 steps (will get info later)

then once fully torqued and rechecked, install the pushrods and rocker assemblies. loosen the rocker adjuster screws all out then torque assemblies down (will get ft/lb later) recheck torque. do a valve adjustment when you like.

install MAP sensor (the left one) and intake air temp sensor (right) on the driver side rear of head

install lift  brackets, thermostat housing torque 18ft/lb, instake cover with shellac on the gasket and torque to 18ft/lb and blue loctight and paint.

install transmission adapter and flywheel-clutch/torque converter. (will get specs later) use alightnment tool for clutch. make sure to grease up the pilot bearing. torque the pressure plate down in small increments each bolt to 18ft/lb flywheel i think it 92ft/lb and blue loctight

you can install the injection pump now if you wish or in the truck.

install in truck!

Get a bottle of brake fluid from Wal-Mart. Use the brake fluid for your truck. Change out your brake fluid. Take notice there are two different sized necks you want the larger of the two if possible. The small neck won't work.

Now just cut the bottom off the bottle carefully.  Basically this is what you should have. A bottle with the bottom gone and the cap removed.

Now it screws right into the valve cover on a 24 Valve Cummins. I've not tested it on other trucks but it works for me...

Here is another version of high idle you can produce for you dodge Cummins. A member over at Cummins Forum came to me with his version of high idle. Thank you WJBell for your information and allowing me to post here on my site...

WJBell's High Idle Write Up

Original Information is here.
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/111278-mechanical-high-idle-bomb-completed.html

Since seeing Mopar Mans high idle I've been wanting to do something like it. I live in California so I really don't need it but for cold morning warms up's it's kind of nice. And if I idle it for a long time I've heard you can cake up the valves or warp cylinders. So I checked with three different dealers in my area and they all wanted $100+ to program the stock high idle. What I really wanted was the PTO idle controlled through cruise control but not available for my 2001.

So... I decided to make my own PTO idle.

I looked through some different posts and a couple guys did it with a high idle solenoid from Chevy's with a Rochester carb. So I went to pick & Pull today and picked one up for $7 off of a late 70's early 80's truck. Then I went to Ace hardware and picked up some 1/16 steel cable, a cable end stop and a thing to slip over the cable to tie it down.

The one guy I saw mounted it on his APPS to push the throttle open, like an extended stop screw for the throttle. I didn't want to leave my APPS cover off or hack it up so I looked where I could mount it where the pedal pulls the cable under the dash. It wouldn't fit behind the pedal lever but there was a place where I could mount it where it pulled the top of the pedal where the cable was. And there is a bolt there in perfect position to mount the existing bracket on the solenoid. All I had to do is hacksaw off part of the bracket and it fit perfect.

So I got a piece of 1/4 thick aluminum roughly about 1 3/4" long and 3/4" wide and mounted it to the end piece of the solenoid, drilling through them both and securing it with one machine screw. Then on the other end where the cable comes through I got a short, 3/4" long bolt (not sure what size but something that will fit within the aluminum bracket) and drilled it out though the center. Then drilled the aluminum bracket a little smaller than the bolt and force threaded the bolt into the bracket. (poor mans tap & die. Hey it's aluminum!) So now the cable feeds in through the top of the bolt and you can fine tune the idle speed by tightening or backing out the bolt. So I ran the cable through, looped it around the pedal and tied it together with a 1/8" (can't remember what it's called) with an allen set screw to tighten it down.

I already had a switch wired through a relay up in my overhead sunglasses compartment so I just wired it to the solenoid.

Started the truck up, flipped the switch and tapped the throttle and idle went up to about 1400. Turned off the switch and it dropped to normal. The solenoid doesn't have enough power to raise the idle by itself, you have to tap the throttle. After some adjustments I got the high idle to right around 1100-1200. It's sweet. Start the truck, hit the switch and tap the throttle and you're at 1100 rpms. Turn off the switch and you're back to normal.

There's no effect on the pedal, you can't feel any binding, etc.

Works pretty sweet. Not bad for a couple hours work and under $20! I don't have 3 cylinder high idle but if I want that I'll just unplug three of the spark plugs.

The part number for the solenoid is 1997461 and here's a list of cars it comes on. Hit your local pick & pull and you can pick one up for less than $10.

1977 : Chevrolet : Corvette : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Monte Carlo : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro LT : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Camaro Z28 : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Full Size Chevrolet : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Caprice Classic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Caprice Estate : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Impala : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Impala Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Nova/Chevy II : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Nova : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Nova Concours : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Nova Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Chevelle/Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevrolet : Malibu CLassic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Corvette : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro LT : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Camaro Z28 : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Full Size Chevrolet : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Caprice : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Impala : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Nova/Chevy II : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Nova : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Nova Custom : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Chevelle/Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Malibu : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevrolet : Malibu CLassic : V8-350 5.7L OHV - notes: ROCHESTER EQPD - EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevy Truck : Blazer Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : Blazer Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : C10, C20, C30, K10, K20, K30 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : C10 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : C20 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : C30 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : K10 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : K20 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : K30 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : C10, C20, C30, K10, K20, K30 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:

1978 : Chevy Truck : C10 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : C20 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : C30 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : K10 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : K20 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : K30 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : El Camino : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : Chevy Truck : El Camino : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Chevy Truck : G10, G20, G30 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : G10 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : G20 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : Chevy Truck : G30 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : G10, G20, G30 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : G10 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : G20 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : Chevy Truck : G30 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : C+K 1500-3500 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : C1500 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : C2500 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : C3500 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : K1500 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : K2500 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : K3500 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : C+K 1500-3500 Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : C1500 1/2 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : C2500 3/4 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : C3500 1 Ton (2wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : K1500 1/2 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : K2500 3/4 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : K3500 1 Ton (4wd) Pickup : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : Suburban : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : G1500-3500 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : G1500 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : G2500 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : G3500 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : G1500-3500 Vans : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : G1500 1/2 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : G2500 3/4 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : G3500 1 Ton Van : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : Jimmy/Yukon Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1978 : GMC Truck : Jimmy/Yukon Full Size : V8-350 5.7L - notes:
1977 : GMC Truck : Sprint/Caballero : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1978 : GMC Truck : Sprint/Caballero : V8-350 5.7L - notes: EXC CARB #17058232, 530
1977 : Oldsmobile : Full Size Oldsmobile (Rwd) : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : 98 Regency : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Custom Cruiser : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Delta 88 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Delta 88 Royale : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Luxury 98 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: 4 BBL, CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega Brougham : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG
1977 : Oldsmobile : Omega F85 : V8-350 5.7L - notes: CHEV ENG   

Stock breather issues...

The main issue with OEM crankcase vent is it is nothing more than a piece of hose mounted to the front of the gear case. The piece of hose elbows over the case and points down towards the ground. There are two versions of this crankcase. One involves a drip bottle mounted on the end of the hose and the other does not.

A Technical Service Bulleting (TSB) was released on this issue as well: TSB (09-002-02 Crankcase Breather Overflow). This bulletin warns of a potential of extreme loss of oil from a truck descending at too steep of a slope while off-roading. During this loss of oil, oil also has been known to scatter all over the engine and radiator. This scattering of oil causes the collection of dust and dirt in the face of the radiator. This collection causes overheating issues for your truck.

Even in with normal use, the cases that include a breather bottle can emit enough oil vapors make the radiator gunky with the collection dirt and dust.

Another TSB on this issue is TSB 09-02-00 (A Heavy Oil Or Fuel-Like Odor Coming From the Diesel Engine Compartment). This bulletin was written about the foul heavy oil smell after an oil change. Although it is normal for some brand of oils to have this heavy smell anyway

My own personal fix…

Here is a short video of normal blow by...

I know there are people curious of what this is. Everyone knows I've been a big supporter of ScanGauge II live data tool. Sad to say time for ScanGauge II to slide over and take second place now. OBDLink OBDII tool has way more abilities and features over ScanGauge II. OBDLink is dongle is a more or less plug and play tool that is completely wireless can be used either with Bluetooth or WiFI for some Apple devices. Myself I bought OBDLink LX dongle and using with a Azpen A729 tablet I bought from TigerDirect. Totally between the two devices there is $100. This is $60 cheaper than ScanGauge II and much more user friendly. The best part off this is you are no longer limited by a cord. That's right you can take your mobile device out to the engine area and see live data and error codes while working with the engine. No longer limited by a cord!

Setup of Vehicle Information

When you plug in for the first time OBDLink App will ask you to create a vehicle profile. Most of this is common sense like make "Dodge", model "Ram", year "2002", etc. The juicy stuff like volumetric efficiency and brake specific fuel consumption I'll cover below.

Volumetric Efficiency

This number is what is used to calculate your MPG and fuel flow numbers. As for completely stock 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Ram the Volumetric efficiency is 63%. As for figuring out offset number is rather easy. Just fill up your truck at a fuel station allow the nozzle to cancel on it own. Now drive a god amount of distance 100 miles or more. Hopefully come back to the same fuel station and pump (this is for accuracy). If not now take note of the gallons of fuel consumed and the gallons pumped. Now divide the two number to get a percentage offset. Now ADD that percentage offset to the 63% stock number and you'll have you new offset number. In my case it was 63% + 14.5% = 77.5% Volumetric Efficiency which is my new calibration. Make sure to have the "Intake Manifold Absolute Pressure" set for Fuel calculation method being the Cummins ECM does not supply fuel flow rate so it calculated from boost pressure hence why it shows no fuel flow at idle.

Brake Specific Fuel Consumption (BSFC)

This number is what calculates the horsepower and torque numbers. For the 1998.5 to 2002 Dodge Cummins the brake specific fuel consumption is 0.393 as documented by Cummins designers. Like with my setup I'm running +50 HP injectors, Edge Comp on 5x3 on a SO Engine. So to add it all up 235 HP plus 50 Hp Injectors plus 120 HP Edge Comp I should be able to reach 405 HP at the flywheel. I done it several times where I touch 400 HP with the high mark. So the math is fairly close to right for flywheel power (torque and horse power). Look at about 4:22 in the video below I nearly touch 400 HP in the video. I've saved a few screen captures of being just over or at 400 HP several times.

Creating Gauges

As for creating gauges you can use the OBDLink App gauges to create digital or analog gauges. I tend to favor the analog gauges because its easier to look at needle positions or swings to see what going on vs rolling numbers which takes more though process and visual focus at times. My panel uses the analog gauges primarily but I used color ranges to note normal ranges and dangerous ranges. Like lets look at recreating the coolant gauge. The factory gauge is 140 to 240 span. Make sure to select "Engine coolant temperature" from the sensor list. The rest is optional the way you want it.

As for setting the ranges and colors this is really easy too. Select "Style" and then select "Range". Now add a range you want. Set your colors and the value of start to end of the range. Like the red band on the coolant gauge I set for 220 to 240 in a red color. You can add as many as you wish. Personally I added the cold band so I can tell if the engine is cold yet or not at a glance. Then added the green normal band (Range1) so I can tell if it operating normally. Then the red zone (Range 0) which I would stop the truck and let it cool off if it reaches that zone.

Data Logging

There is wealth of data that you can data log in the OBDLink App. I'm set up more so for trip data. Now you can track your data for months or years with the OBDLink App where the ScanGauge II could only do day and tank and no logging of data over time. Like June 11th to June 17th was RV trips and towing my 8,000 pound RV. June 7th was quick move in the yard. Then June  26th was the making of the video which I got on the throttle deep and heavy.

Using the tool provided with the seal, drive the seal in the housing until the tool lip is flush with the rim of the flange plate as shown in the photos. When driven in all the way as shown, the seal will sit perfectly flush with the back of the housing seal face.

Many people need to change their engine out due to “53” blocks, catastrophic failures or just plain wear & tear. Most do not know about the differences between the two “Sub generations” as I will call them. I will try to explain it all in this article. I will also give known ways to accomplish the swap & why. I will also give an alternative way that I presume will work, but cannot guarantee.Firstly, for some basics. If at all possible, get a replacement engine of the same sub generation if at all possible to make your life easier. Second, if you must use an engine from a different sub generation, GET A FULL DONOR VEHICLE.For the proven method of swapping sub generations, you WILL need the ECM, PCM, full engine harness & PCM at a minimum. Now, there have been a few cases where either the donor truck or recipient truck has the factory security system. In these cases, you may need the gauge cluster and/or the CTM (Central Timer Module).

Here is an exerpt from http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/ECM/ that explains most of it & I will denote my changes to it with “**” at the beginning & end.98.5-00:

“ Engine RPM and timing are derived from the Crankshaft Position Sensor (CKP) on 1998-2000 models. A 35 tooth tone ring with a gap where the 36th tooth should be is bolted to the crankshaft. A hall effect sensor registers each tooth as it passes and sends the signal to the ECM. The tooth gap corresponds to 60 degrees BTDC of cylinder #1. A Camshaft Position Sensor (CMP) senses a hole ** Slot ** in the back of the camshaft drive gear to check for TDC of cylinder #1. This signal is used for diagnostic purposes and is not used to control the fuel system. ** It is also used to drive the tachometer to my understanding** Here is a picture of the back of the 98.5-02 gear”. **Notice the depth of the slot!**

Picture captured from www.ebay.com

Now, here is the crank & crank gear from: http://www.dieselbombers.com/dodge-diesel-tech-articles/15100-ram-tough-rebuild-cummins-engine-specs-brief-history.html“

The upper most crankshaft is the first design used from 1983-1997.5 and from 1999.5-2002 for Dodge applications. The crank in the middle is the second design with the crankshaft position sensor trigger ring that was used from 1997.5-2002 for non-Dodge applications. The lower inlay shows the that the trigger ring is two pieces and can easily be replaced without crank removal. The second-generation crankshaft is forged steel and induction hardened as well. It also has 8 flywheel bolts and includes two dowel pin holes for flywheel location. This crankshaft was used from 1997.5-1999.5 for Dodge and 1997.5 through 2002 for non-Dodge application. In Figure 4 you’ll notice the slightly different relief as well as other differences. This crankshaft uses a bolt-on crankshaft position trigger ring, which is manufactured in two pieces. It could actually be replaced in-chassis if it needed to be done that way”.If you read the article, you will see that it is a 2 piece gear that is replaceable with the crank in place. I do not think the 01-02 Dodge crank is machined for it, as per the article.Another possible option for this gear replacement is a product from Destroked that is a tone wheel, sensor, bracket & hardware to go on the front of the crankshaft.
Here is the link: http://www.destroked.com/prod_tach_kits.php

It is the “36 minus 1 tach kit”. Although, this seems like it will replace the crank wheel, I am not positive that the signal is exact. Please contact Destroked for more info on that.The only other differnece that I can think of between the sub generations is the MAP sensor, as the 98.5-00 reads a different value than the 01-02.01-02:
Now, again from the article :http://dodgeram.org/tech/dsl/ECM/ :

“The crankshaft position sensor was deleted for 2001 and 2002 models; engine speed, crankshaft position, and injection timing information will be derived from the camshaft position sensor signal. Notches are cut into the rear face of the camshaft gear. A hall effect sensor registers each notch as it passes, and sends the signal to the ECM. A missing notch corresponds to TDC of cylinder #1”.
Here is the cam gear:

This image captures from a Fourwheeler.com article:  http://www.fourwheeler.com/vehicle-reviews/131-0407-dodge-ram-cummins-upgrade/ 
As far as I can count, there are 60 or 61 teeth minus 2 (Difficult to count from the image). Now, NOTICE that the 2 missing teeth are beside each other. To compare that with the crank gear from the 98.5-00 crank gear (Counting a 2:1 rotation of the crank/cam rotation), the older crank signal would have 72 teeth, minus 2, but the 2 “Minus” teeth would be on opposite sides of the cam gear. Now, go back up to the text of the 98.5-00 cam gear & remember that I mentioned the depth of the notch? That is depth from the outer edge of the gear. Notice the difference of about 1/4” difference (From my uncalibrated eyeballs)? Also, the depth inward to the face of the notches is deeper on the 01-02 gear. To me, this means that along with the cam gear, you will also need the full gear housing & 01-02 CPS (Cam Position Sensor) to make the 01-02 electronics work on a 98.5-00 engine. Just block off the Crank sensor hole, or leave the sensor in, but not connected.
MAP sensors:
The 98.5-00 MAP sensor reads a different value than the 01-02 MAP sensor. Also, the 01-02 MAP sensors read the same values, but have different plugs. If swapping between 01 & 02, you can use your original MAP sensor, or get an adapter from many diesel suppliers that adapts the plug.Other than these issues, there should be no differences that will throw a CEL (Check Engine Light), or make any driveability differences.

Author: Ed Grafton
Screenname: Yankneck696
 

Valve lash adjustment is suggested to be done at 150K miles which I think is too far down the road. My valve lash were out of adjustment a bit at 92K miles. So this is how I did my valve lash adjustment on my truck. Valve lash adjustment is fairly simple to do and doesn't require much for tools.

Tools Needed:

1. Feeler gauge set (0.010 and 0.020)

2. 9/16" box wrench

3. 10mm short socket

4. 15/16" socket

5. both 3/8" and 1/2" ratchets

6. Allen wrench

7. mirror.

Valve lash adjustment should be done on a cold engine with a coolant temp below 140*F. The first thing you need to do is pull the valve cover off the engine. You'll need a 10mm short socket and a 3/8" ratchet. Loosen all the bolt till you can lift the bolt up. Don't bother removing the bolts from the valve cover. Once you got that the valve cover will come off on the passenger side. You got to slide it towards the turbo and work it over the top of the heater hose. Take your time is will go...

Now you need to use your 1/2" ratchet and the 15/16" socket to rotate the alternator. You want to turn it towards the passenger side (or towards coolant bottle). You want to get the gear to be in the TDC (Top Dead Center) like in the picture above.

Now you'll start adjusting valve lash. Intake valves 1, 2, 4 and Exhaust valves 1, 3, 5 which I've circled for you. Just remember the long rockers are exhaust valves and the short rockers are intake valves.

Using a feeler gauge you want to adjust all intake valve lash to 0.010" gap and all exhaust valve lash to 0.020" gap. You'll be inserting the feeler gauge like shown. This is the part you got to take your time on. As you'll notice as you tighten up your adjustment screw the feeler gauges seem to be pinched in-between but try to hold the feeler gauge flat you'll notice it get loose again. So take your time... Now when you get ready to tighten the lock nut or finger spin it tight. Then as you tighten the nut you go to hold the adjustment screw still. But if you notice your gap is loose twist both nut and screw tighten a little bit. Or twist the adjustment screw loosen as you tighten the nut. This will increase or decrease the gap a little but not much.

Now that you done this set now you go to do the other half of the valves. So now twist the alternator some more till you see (BDC -Bottom Dead Center) for the Bosch VP44 injection pump gear.

Now adjust the rest of the valve lash. Intakes 3, 5, 6 and Exhaust 2, 4, 6. They are marked in the picture below. Again remember the long rocker are exhaust valves and short rockers are intake valves.

Double check all the jam nuts that they are TIGHT!

Mopar's Notes: Also wouldn't hurt to throw in the torque specs for the lock nuts on the adjusters. 18ft-lbs for the adjuster nuts and 18 ft-lbs for the valve cover bolts starting in the center out.

inlinecumminspower
http://idahoturbodiesels.com/vb/showthread.php?t=7665

You now have completed a valve adjustment on you engine. Now you got to reassemble the valve cover. Replace the gasket if it damaged typically the gasket is serviceable for many years. Then remount the breather cover on the gear case and hook up the vent tube. You'll hear a slight difference when you start the truck up. It going to be a bit quieter. Let it idle a bit and double check your valve cover for leaks.

I finally got around to doing Mopar1973Man's mod for the puke bottle. I knew I needed to clean my radiator even before this happened. My truck ran hot (215 - 220 degrees) in stop and go traffic or when towing my 3000 pound trailer. Also, at idle, my air conditioner barely worked. It all pointed to an air flow problem.

So I pulled the radiator and I would say this is an air flow problem:

So I used some degreaser and my power washer to clean everything.

So once that was done I went to work on the new vent setup. It's Mike's design just plumbed slightly different (probably still a patent infringement).

While I had it all apart, I flushed the cooling system and changed the thermostat. When it was back together I took it for a test drive. It heated up to 190 degrees much faster than before thanks to the new thermostat. When the thermostat opened it actually dropped down to about 185 degrees. I've driven this truck daily for about 4 years and it has never done that. I decided to take it for a ride through the city. I spent 45 minutes in stop and go traffic with the air conditioner on and it never went above 190 degrees. Before it would have gone to about 215. It was definitely worth the time it took and I should have done it a long time ago.

The down pipe I kept short enough that road debris will not strike the downpipe as well as keeping up near the engine heat in hopes to keep it from freezing shut. Take notice the steep angle cut on the end of the pipe added to keep the tip from possibly freezing shut as well.