So, I have been running my compound setup for 3 weeks now, and I am impressed on all levels. For 1500$, I have instant boost, 24 MPG, and even when I fuel it like a dragster, The highest EGT I can get is 1280*.

Because of my awesome experience, I have decided to share the entire installation and give a few tips for anyone who wants to go this way.

The kit I purchased is the Evilfab525 kit, here is the website link : http://www.evilfabperformance.com/shop

To start this project I inventoried all of the pieces in the kit, verified the S366 T4 turbo was clean and operational, and then set out on disassembly.

Problems encountered here - The factory downpipe / 5 bolt manifold had a bolt already broken off, and another one broke on me as well. Repair involved a drill press, tap and die kit, lots of lubricant, and patience. 

So moving on, the T3 HX35 uses 4 studs, two on manifold and two on turbine housing. Trash them!

This kit requires inverting the exhaust manifold, so the HX35 will be 180* and will require restudding / drilling out threads as required. The instructions provided very good info on this, and the fabricator Riley can answer any questions quickly before you get into trouble.

Also you will need to knock out the rear oil drain freeze plug, and chopsaw your HX35 drain pipe for the S366 Drain. Read the instructions on this part carefully!

After you have your length of drain tube, here's a tip: you should have 2.5- 3.5 inches of straight pipe. take electrical tape and tape the end you intend to tap into the block, marking a depth of 1 - 1.25 inches. There is nothing to limit the depth, and you don't want to hammer the tube all the way into the oil pan. Also a 1" or 15/16" deep socket slides over the other end nicely and gives you a part to hammer on without damaging the tube.

After getting your oil drain prepped, get the hacksaw out and cut off the exhaust pipe about 24 inches forward of the transmission cross member, this gives you room to mock everything up. I cut mine right where the 3.5" down pipe expanded to 4".

Tip # 2: go buy 1 or 2, 4" exhaust clamps (if you already have a 4" system) and if you are running a magnaflow system that has a 3.5 - 4 inch downpipe, you will need about 16 inches of 4" pipe to splice to your exhaust, unless you plan a new exhaust at the same time.

This is where I started mocking up the kit.

Problem #1 the waste gate actuator was in the way. Remove the actuator and with great finesse and care, Grind off the mount from the compressor housing.

Problem #2, The heater pipe has a mount which bolts to the exhaust manifold. This does not fit with the manifold inverted.Its also in the way of the hot pipe.  You have to options: Delete the pipe and replace with rubber hose, or Cut the mounting tab off. I cut the tab off, because I was being cheap.

Now its time to start assembly. I fabricated a bracket to hold the waste gate actuator from 16 gauge plate steel from home cheapo. I used a piece of thin cardboard to template the T3 Bolt pattern, and measured the distance from the flat surface of the actuator mount on the comp housing, to the gate arm. using that measurement, I utilized a Drill press, Sawzall, Bench Vice, and Ball peen hammer to make my bracket. For rigidity, I started by bending the plate 90* in half, and then started on it with the sawzall. After I got it shaped right, I used my little mig welder to put a bead in the corner for extra strength. a bolt works just fine too. you will have to notch your bracket to give clearance for the HX35 oil drain.

I painted it with black header paint to look nice and put it off to the side.

]

There has always been a big hype about getting a cold air intake. Well its been brought to my attention that cold air intake doesn't work as expected on turbocharged engines. My second in command on the forum ISX is a wizard of sorts when it comes to figuring out math formulas and calculating different things on the Cummins engine. From his research in this, there is such a small difference in volume that you'll never see a measurable difference in power.

Quote ISX post.

I've run the numbers and had a temperature probe on the air filter and the highest I saw on a hill pulling the trailer at 100°F was 20 over (120°F). After plugging in all the numbers, you end up with a 0.5% gain in air mass in the cylinder when compared with what a cold air intake would provide (100°F air). As a reference, 0°F - 100°F ambient changes air mass by 21%... In other words, because of the intercooler, the cold air intake and heat shield stuff is null and void. You will never notice a 0.5% increase plus that is only under high load conditions, most of the time I was only seeing a 10°-15°F rise and in the winter, I saw almost no rise over ambient. Even if the temp was 50°F over ambient, it's still only 1.5% more air mass. It's all because of the intercooler.

I know a lot of guys run heat shields and stuff and I'm not trying to say they are bad I'm just throwing the numbers out there. There could be something to how much boost is produced with hot air vs. colder air within the turbo. But turbo efficiency has more to do with it than anything IMO.

So what I'm suggesting for the 2nd generation crowd is just get a BHAF for an air filter. As for colder intake temperatures you could upgrade intercoolers but the stock intercooler is already like 90% efficient. So there is going to little to no change in air temperatures with even a upgraded cooler. This will, of course, change as your performance demands change. But for mostly stock to mildly modified truck, the stock intercooler is going to work just fine. Typically for the 24 valve engine, there is a roughly +40°F temperature rise in the manifold because of the coolant jacket in the intake manifold. Also, the coolant jacket is within a few inches of the IAT sensor. So there is always going to be warmer air in the manifold.

A BHAF Muffler  - Uhh??

I like the Cummins engine, but I try to do anything I can to make the engine quieter.  The BHAF air filter flows lots of air, but it also allows a lot of engine air intake noise to be heard in the cab – more noise than the factory air box and the factory air filter.   This inspired the idea to experiment with a BHAF muffler on a big honkin’ air filter –  in this case, a NAPA 2790.

A BHAF muffler is not for everybody.  If you like air intake sounds, turbo sounds, and amplified exhaust brake sounds inside your cab, then this project may not be for you.

For my first muffler I used a length of ribbed plastic drain pipe inserted into the filter.  I decided to measure the pressure drop through the pipe on a road test.  I hooked up an analog water manometer  gauge (mounted inside the cab) at connection port “B” for the test. 

All of the following tests were done driving the truck in fifth gear at wide open throttle approaching 2500 rpm.  The pressure drop measurements are recorded below:

Port “B” connection

  4” H2O  @ 27 psi boost @ 2500 rpm WOT – BHAF with NO muffler
20” H2O  @ 27 psi boost @ 2500 rpm WOT – BHAF with plastic ribbed muffler
  9” H2O  @ 27 psi boost @ 2500 rpm WOT – BHAF with steel muffler

Port “A” connection

  1” H2O  @ 27 psi boost @ 2500 rpm WOT – BHAF with or without mufflers

The plastic pipe muffler failed in terms of pressure drop (20” H2O) probably due to the restrictive 3” inside diameter and ribbed internal surface.  The steel pipe muffler is the winner.  It is still effective as a muffler, but at a pressure drop of only 9” H2O under the same test conditions.  The improved pressure drop is likely due to the increased inside diameter (from 3” to over 3 5/8”) and from a smooth inside wall compared to the ribbed plastic pipe.

So, I scrapped the ribbed plastic muffler (although I ran it for 40,000 miles) and made a steel one.  This muffler consists of one part – an 8” length of thin-walled steel exhaust pipe with an outside diameter of 3 13/16” and an inside diameter of 3 11/16” (wall thickness approximately 1/16”)  These diameters could vary slightly – in my case the NAPA 2790 BHAF connection has been deformed to a slightly smaller diameter over time because when the filter was new there was nothing in place to support the tension of the intake hose clamp.  For more BHAF information, IBMobile wrote an article regarding dimensions and specifications of the  most popular BHAF’s – thank you IBMobile!

Check your local muffler/exhaust shops in the area for a piece of exhaust pipe to meet these dimensions.  If you can’t find an exact match, select a pipe that is slightly larger in diameter and then modify the pipe as described below.

I made the thin-walled steel muffler piece from a slightly larger diameter exhaust pipe with a wall thickness of approximately 1/16”.  After cutting it to the 8” length, I cut out and discarded a piece of the wall and reshaped the remaining pipe to the proper outer diameter with the aid of a vise. I stress relieved the pipe so the cut edges touched each other and then I  soldered them together.  I made sure that the seam joint was flush and smooth for an airtight seal.  I inserted the muffler into the air filter leaving a small edge visible.  This will allow for at least 3 inches of air space between the inside back wall of the air filter and the end of the pipe.

I hope that you will enjoy a quieter ride in the cab without the sacrifice of performance.

- John

This is a short list of BHAF that can be used on the Cummins 5.9L diesel.

Some of the BHAF are the same size and will be listed together.

L= length, OD= outside diameter, ID= inside connection diameter, 

BHAF: NAPA FIL 2790, WIX 42790, Fleetguard AH19037, Hastings Af1012, and Baldwin PA2820

L          11.88”

OD      10.50”

ID         4.0”

Pre filter for above BHAF

FILTERWEARS F105K

BHAF: Napa FIL 6637, WIX 46637, Fleetguard AH1141, Hastings AF2329, Donaldson ECB085011, Baldwin PA2818 and Cummins 3912020

L          12.38”

OD        8.50”

ID        4.0”

Pre filter for above BHAF

FILTERWEARS K104k

Donaldson B105006

L          10.50”

OD      10.50”

ID          4.0”

Surface area

12.38"h x 8.5"d = 330.59 in²

10.50"h x 10.5"d = 346.35 in²      ~ 04% larger than #1

11.88"h x 10.5"d = 391.87 in²      ~ 18% larger than #1    ~ 13% larger than #2

Prepared by:  J. Daniel Martin / Martin’s Mobile Maintenance

AKA:  ibmobile

3/10/2018

Here I'm going to try to go through everything I did to put an he351cw off of a 2005 CR Cummins onto my 2002 24valve Cummins.

There may be some redundant pictures in here, so bear with me!

I started by buying the parts I knew I would need.

2 turbo mounting studs from Cummins (I bought the stock length for an 05) These screwed into the bottom of the manifold. The other two were plenty long.

2 longer oil return tube mounting bolts

2 90degree exhaust elbows from Litz Auto (I think they measured 3x3 in length)

1 HE351cw wastegate plug from DAP.http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/he351%20solenoid%20cap%20tapped.htm

T3 turbo manifold gasket. http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/he351%20t3%20gasket%203949530.htm

Oil return Gasket. http://www.dieselautopower.com/product-p/turbo%20oil%20gasket%203937706.htm

Charge pipe if you dont want to make it http://www.stainlessdiesel.com/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=176

Next I fabbed up the wastegate holder. I chose to use the stock wastegate actuator and build a bracket that mounted off of the oil return bolts. 

I don't remember the size of the angle iron I used, but it really doesn't matter as long as there is room to bolt and weld everything up. 

Next I clocked the turbo. I did this by using two small punches and channel lock pliers. It isn't fun, but it's doable! 

Here are some pictures with the turbo mounted, clocked, and the actuator hooked up. 

Next I made the charge pipe. If you are doing this just go buy the one from DAP! It'll make your install 1000 times easier! 

I made mine, and it took a ton of time. I chopped off the end of my stock pipe where it connected to the turbo. I attached that to a 90degree piece of 3 inch exhaust piping from Litz Auto. (They were expensive too) I then made a short piece extending down and attached another 90degree piece of exhaust piping. I then cut the stock pipe coming out of the intercooler, and spent an hour or two tacking, twisting and grinding before finding the perfect fit. Here are some pics.

I attached the exhaust using the 05 stock elbow, and an hx40 downpipe that I cut the end off of. 

 Here are a few pictures of when I put a Batmo wheel on

I have more pictures to provide if anyone is interested. If you are doing the swap and would like some advice or help with something don't hesitate to PM me!

The Holset He351 ve vgt turbo was found on the Cummins 6.7 L trucks on late 3rd and 4th gen dodge trucks.  It is a very tough turbo and was selected for use due to the ability to improve low throttle boost and the built in Exhaust brake.  It should be good for near enough to 500 hp not to matter.

Parts

- HX40 style Downpipe click to go to vulcan for the part ($125)

- t3 to wgmt flange adapter to mate the he351ve to the t3 exhaust manifold. ($150)

- 2x he351ve turbo exhaust gaskets ($10)

- 1x hx35 exhaust gasket ($5)

- 4 Ft of 5/8' coolant hose for your local parts store ($10)

- 5/8" oil rated hose 2' worth ($5)

- 10 x 5/8" pipe clamps.

- T3 oil drain ( ebay, if I was to do it again I would have gotten one with a bend in it to help with the oil drain.

- 2 x 5/8" T fitting ($5) Local Parts Store

I

- HE351Ve turbo ( $300-$600) depending on where you get it.  I would suggest CumminsForum or here of course if one is for sale.

- You will need some way of attaching the hotside intercooler tubes/boots to the turbo since the output from the Turbo faces forward rather than down like the 2nd gen turbos.  

went with the charge tube from Stainlessdiesel.com HERE ($85)

- You will need a  2.75" to 3" silicon boot reducer and clamps for this to work.   

There are also reports that a 45* reducing elbow will work also.  unsure on that but you can try.  I got min efrom www.siliconintakes.com

First Specs on the Turbos

 LEFT Holset HX35 56/60/12 60ish lb/min vs RIGHT Holset HE351ve 60/68/3-25 69ish lb/min

The Install

Start pulling the old turbo off

Use PB blaster or similar on the flange bolts for a few days prior to removal.

Double nut the two bottom studs and remove them.  Take your time use PB Blaster or similar.

Bolt the adapter flange to the manifold.  The short bolts go in the bottom and the long bolts with the nuts attach the top holes of the flange.  You will need to use the hx35 exhaust gasket between the manifold and the first section of the Adapter plate. 

Next if your truck is like mine (auto) there is a hard coolant line just behind the exhaust manifold that will block the rear most bolt on the adapter flange from being used.  you can see the bolt hole in question.  

Use the 5/8" coolant hose and a 5/8" T fitting to remove the hardline and replace it with the coolant hose.  You will need to run this to just in front of the oil filter and also to the output of the coolant line from the HE351ve.

Next you need to remove the old downpipe if you don't already have an HX40 style installed.    this is a PITA to say the least.  I had to cut mine out.  The hx40 style downpipe flange will attach to the back of the he351ve without the elbow.

Next it is time to pull apart the turbo into it's 3 sections.  The turbo weights a lot so it is much easier to install it one section at a time.  There are 2vband clamps that hold it together, one fo the compressor housing and one for the exhaust housing.  Once the turbo is apart attach the other half of the flange adapter to the exhaust housing of the turbo.  You will need to install one of the he351ve gaskets between the flange and the turbo. Use the long bolt for the through hole on the exhaust housing.  I also had to cut one of the bolts to make it fit better.  Without cutting the bolt I couldn't clock the center as nicely as I wanted.   Ensure you remote the alignment dowels out of the compressor cover and exhaust housing.   This will allow you to clock the turbo as you need.

Once you have the flange tightly bolts to the turbo you can install the exhaust housing.   ENSURE you put the last he351ve turbo gasket between the 2 sections of the adapter flange.  It is somewhat hard to center it, but not impossible.  Tighten down the 4 Allen head bolts supplied with the kit to hold the flanges together.  You will need to tighten them very tight.

In order to allow for a more vertical position of the center section I cut off the top of the strut nut.  This will allow you to clock the center section of the turbo to within the 30* off vertical for the oil drain spec'd by holset.

Next you need to install the Center section of the turbo.

 I would practice this beforehand on a bench to get the feel for it

Take your time doing this as the fins on the vgt section must slide into the exhaust housing in their slots.  This can be tricky, I found it best to extend the vgt all the way out and then try and sldie it in gently by rotating slightly.   Here you can see the Center Section installed.   Notice the clocking of the center section.  You will need to loosed the oil supply line and rearrange it to make it bend nicely.

Follow the hard oil drain tube down the the rubber joiner and remove the clamp holding the hard tube on.  You will slip your PFE hose into the joiner and tighten it.  This hose is not under pressure so you just need to ensure it is a good fit.  Run your pfe hose to the oil drain on the turbo, using a hose clamp to hold it on.

You can see in this picture that I just reused the OEM banjo bolts for the coolant connections.  I used a hack saw to cut the braided section off so it was just a solid metal banjo bolt.  I then just pushed the 5/8" coolant line over and used a hose clamp.  I will do an fittings at some point, but for now this will work.

Then install the Compressor cover onto the turbo.  Be careful not to damage the compressor fins.  Once the housing is on tighten the vband clamps tight enough to hold the housing, but not too tight as to keep you from rotating the housing.

Use the preferred method of connecting the charge pipe, I choose the stainless diesel pipe and a 2.75" to 3" reducer then reused the oem 3" to 3.5" elbow at the inter cooler.   Align all boots and tighten down the clamps.   Once everything is lined up tighten the vband clamp so that the compressor housing can't move.

Note the position of the passenger side neg battery cable to the engine block.  I might have to redo this with a new longer cable, I have been meaning to anyways, but I haven't gotten to it.

Hard to see in the picture but run the other coolant line into the bottom of the turbo and T into the other heater core line.  Ensure you leave some space between the exhaust manifold and the coolant hose.   You might use zip ties or something similar to hold the hoses together.

Then install the air filter and you should be good to go.  Check for any coolant or oil leaks.

there you go the holset he351ve has been installed into your 2nd gen Cummins.  

Some Videos

Exhaust brake apply at 55 in 3rd with TC locked.  Turbo builds 50ish psi of backpressure quickly.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=qyvpx-p6e5U

Here you can see smoke output from standstill at %50 throttle.  You can see it clears up nicely

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Kx681iLXSvw 

Sea Level smoke at %100 throttle

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Rc2NSMaPYCc 

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=3m3sPPji2gs

Operation

Exhaust gas pressure (drive pressure) and energy drive the turbine, which in turn drives a centrifugal compressor that compresses the inlet air (boost pressure), and forces the air into the engine through the intercooler and plumbing. Since heat is a by-product of this compression, the air must pass through an intercooler to cool the incoming air and maintain power and efficiency. Increasing air flow to the engine provides:

• Improved engine performance
• Lower exhaust smoke density
• Improved operating economy
• Altitude compensation
• Noise reduction.

The turbocharger also uses a wastegate, which regulates intake manifold air pressure and prevents over boosting at high engine speeds. When the wastegate valve is closed, all of the exhaust gases flow through the turbine wheel. As the intake manifold pressure increases, the wastegate actuator opens the valve, diverting some of the exhaust gases away from the turbine wheel. This limits turbine shaft speed and air output from the impeller. The turbocharger is lubricated by engine oil that is pressurized, cooled, and filtered. The oil is delivered to the turbocharger by a supply line that is tapped into the oil filter head. The oil travels into the bearing housing, where it lubricates the shaft and bearings. A return pipe at the bottom of the bearing housing routes the engine oil back to the crankcase.

 

The most common turbocharger failure is bearing failure related to repeated hot shutdowns with inadequate “cool-down” periods. A sudden engine shutdown after the prolonged operation will result in the transfer of heat from the turbine section of the turbocharger to the bearing housing. This causes the oil to overheat and breaks down, which causes bearing and shaft damage the next time the vehicle is started. Letting the engine idle after extended operation allows the turbine housing to cool to normal operating temperature.

Mopar's Notes: You should allow your pyrometer to fall below 300°F before shutdown. If you don't have a pyrometer I highly recommend you purchase a pyrometer gauge and install it. There is also turbo timers that allow the driver to turn off the ignition and lock up the vehicle. The engine will continue to run for set time and then shut down. These add-ons will extend the life of your turbo greatly.

Turbo Inspection Procedure

Visually inspect the turbocharger and exhaust manifold gasket surfaces. Replace stripped or eroded mounting studs.

1. Visually inspect the turbocharger for cracks. The following cracks are NOT acceptable:
Cracks in the turbine and compressor housing that go completely through.
Cracks in the mounting flange that are longer than 15 mm (0.6 in.).
Cracks in the mounting flange that intersect bolt through-holes.
Two (2) Cracks in the mounting flange that are closer than 6.4 mm (0.25 in.) together.

2. Visually inspect the impeller and compressor wheel fins for nicks, cracks, or chips. Note: Some impellers may have a factory placed paint mark which, after normal operation, appears to be a crack. Remove this mark with a suitable solvent to verify that it is not a crack.

3. Visually inspect the turbocharger compressor housing for an impeller rubbing condition (Fig. 25). Replace the turbocharger if the condition exists.

4. Measure the turbocharger axial end play:
a. Install a dial indicator as shown in (Fig. 26). Zero the indicator at one end of travel.
b. Move the impeller shaft fore and aft and record the measurement. Allowable end play is 0.038 mm (0.0015 in.) MIN. and 0.089 mm (0.0035in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these parameters, replace the turbocharger assembly.

5. Measure the turbocharger bearing radial clearance:
a. Insert a narrow blade or wire style feeler gauge between the compressor wheel and the housing(Fig. 27).
b. Gently push the compressor wheel toward the housing and record the clearance.
c. With the feeler gauge in the same location, gently push the compressor wheel away from the housing and again record the clearance.
d. Subtract the smaller clearance from the larger clearance. This is the radial bearing clearance.
e. Allowable radial bearing clearance is 0.326mm (0.0128 in.) MIN. and 0.496 mm (0.0195 in.) MAX. If the recorded measurement falls outside these specifications, replace the turbocharger assy.

 

The intercooler system (Fig. 28) consists of the intercooler piping, intercooler and intake air grid heater. The intercooler is a heat exchanger that uses air flow from vehicle motion to dissipate heat from the intake air. As the turbocharger increases air pressure, the air temperature increases. Lowering the intake air temperature increases engine efficiency and power.

Operation

Intake air is drawn through the air cleaner and into the turbocharger compressor housing. Pressurized air from the turbocharger then flows forward through the intercooler located in front of the radiator. From the intercooler, the air flows back into the intake manifold.

Inspection

Visually inspect the intercooler for cracks, holes, or damage. Inspect the tubes, fins, and welds for tears, breaks, or other damage. Replace the intercooler if the damage is found. Pressure test the intercooler, using Charge Air Cooler Tester Kit #3824556. This kit is available through Cummins Service Products. Instructions are provided with the kit.

You can also use the below to test for boost leaks with turbos with a 4" inlet

Mopar's Notes: Many people have created their own air system or intercooler testing equipment from common plumbing part at a hardware store. Basically, you want to cap off the turbo and have an air connection that is regulated to 20-25 PSI maximum. You can spray down the air system with soapy water and look for leaks (bubbles) or see if the pressure falls off.

WARNING! Do not use caustic cleaners to clean the charge air cooler. Damage to the intercooler will result. If internal debris cannot be removed from the intercooler, the intercooler MUST be replaced.

1. If the engine experiences a turbocharger failure or any other situation where oil or debris get into the intercooler, the intercooler must be cleaned internally.
2. Position the intercooler so the inlet and outlet tubes are vertical.
3. Flush the intercooler internally with a solvent in the direction opposite of normal air flow.
4. Shake the intercooler and lightly tap on the end tanks with a rubber mallet to dislodge trapped debris.
5. Continue flushing until all debris or oil are removed.
6. Rinse the intercooler with hot soapy water to remove any remaining solvent.
7. Rinse thoroughly with clean water and blow dry with compressed air.