Just one thing I did not see mentioned in the instructions for the IQuad or anywhere else.

On the IPhone you should change the wifi settings for the IQuad.

   It should be set to manual instead of automatic in the Configure IP setting

Set the IP Address to (in my case) 1.2.3.14

the Subnet Mask to 255.255.255.0

and leave the router blank

This will allow the Iphone to connect to the Quadzilla and maintain LTE connection for interrnet.

This is an article on how to reprime the Bosch VP44 Injection fuel system on a 24V Dodge Ram Turbo Cummins.

A certain amount of air becomes trapped in the fuel system when fuel system components on the supply and/or high-pressure side are serviced or replaced. Primary air bleeding is accomplished using the electric fuel transfer (lift) pump. If the vehicle has been allowed to run completely out of fuel, the fuel injectors must also be bled as the fuel injection pump is not self-bleeding (priming). Servicing or replacing components on the fuel return side will not require air bleeding.

DANGER! DO NOT BLEED AIR FROM THE FUEL SYSTEM OF A HOT ENGINE.

1. Loosen, but do not remove, banjo bolt (test port fitting) holding low-pressure fuel supply line to the side of Bosch VP44 injection pump. Place a shop towel around banjo fitting to catch the excess fuel. The fuel transfer (lift) pump is self-priming: When the key is first turned on (without cranking engine), the pump operates for approximately 2 seconds and then shuts off. The pump will also operate for up to 25 seconds after the starter is quickly engaged, and then disengaged without allowing the engine to start. The pump shuts off immediately if the key is on and the engine stops running.
2. Turn the key to CRANK position and quickly release the key to ON position before engine starts. This will operate fuel transfer pump for approximately 25 seconds.
3. If fuel is not present at fuel supply line after 25 seconds, turn key OFF. Repeat previous step until fuel is exiting at fuel supply line.
4. Tighten banjo bolt at fuel supply line to 24 N·m (18 ft. lbs.) torque. Primary air bleeding is now completed.
5. Attempt to start the engine. If the engine will not start, proceed to following steps. If the engine does start, it may run erratically and be very noisy for a few minutes. This is a normal condition.

Continue to next step if:

• The vehicle fuel tank has been allowed to run empty
• The Bosch VP44 fuel injection pump has been replaced
• High-pressure fuel lines have been replaced
• Vehicle has not been operated after an extended period

WARNING! Do not engage the starter motor for more than 30 seconds at a time. Allow two minutes between cranking intervals.

6. Perform previous air bleeding procedure steps using fuel transfer pump. Be sure fuel is present at fuel supply line before proceeding.
7. Crank the engine for 30 seconds at a time to allow air trapped in the injection pump to vent out the drain manifold.

DANGER! THE FUEL INJECTION PUMP SUPPLIES EXTREMELY HIGH FUEL PRESSURE TO EACH INDIVIDUAL INJECTOR THROUGH THE HIGH-PRESSURE LINES. FUEL UNDER THIS AMOUNT OF PRESSURE CAN PENETRATE THE SKIN AND CAUSE PERSONAL INJURY. WEAR SAFETY GOGGLES AND ADEQUATE PROTECTIVE CLOTHING AND AVOID CONTACT WITH FUEL SPRAY WHEN BLEEDING HIGH-PRESSURE FUEL LINES. WARNING: ENGINE MAY START WHILE CRANKING STARTER MOTOR.

DANGER! ENGINE MAY START WHILE CRANKING STARTER MOTOR.

The engine may start, may run erratically and be very noisy for a few minutes. This is a normal condition.

8. Thoroughly clean area around injector fittings where they join injector connector tubes.
9. Bleed air by loosening high-pressure fuel line fittings at cylinders number 3, 4 and 5.
10. Continue bleeding injectors until engine runs smoothly. It may take a few minutes for the engine to run smooth.
11. Tighten fuel line(s) at injector(s) to 38 N·m (28 ft. lbs.) torque.

Quote:

I'm betting nobody will answer this one even if they know, but here goes:

Has anyone figured out what the bytes in red, that are always '00', are for?

55 59 20 00 00 00 88 cb 00 00 00 a9 05 22 0d

The green ones appear to be the fuel rate. The blue ones are timing. The very last two, in black, are engine speed/2, 0.125RPM/bit.

I'd just try stuffing numbers in there to see what happens, but I can't afford a new vp44 if I screw up the PSG by doing so.

For a VP44 truck the ECM asks for a amount of power via a Canbus message which contains various things, but most importantly a Fueling command and a Timing command. The ECM has a number of tables that decide how much of each to add. I won't get into that because 1. I don't have that much insight into the workings inside the ECM, only the output from the ECM and 2. it's really not important to this converstation.

So the Fueling message is a 2^12 String of data, you don't need to understand computers, just know that the fueling message can range from 0 - 4095. It cannot be ANY bigger and I don't care what you have heard. Unless you were to rewrite how the ecm and vp44 talk to each other, hint you can't without Bosch letting you rewrite the VP44 coding...not gonna happen, you get a MAX fueling message of 4095. This is where that magic "65hp" limit comes from. The stock tune will max out around 3600 or roughly 235hp.

So for stock injectors, we won't worry about being to exact because it isn't important

0 = 0 hp engine off etc
2000 = 150 hp
3600 = a VERY rough 235 hp OEM Power
4095 = ~300hp worth of fuel


Timing is also a 2^12 string, again don't worry just know that it can only be 0 - 4095. You are gonna ask what does that mean in terms of * of advance BTC??? This is where things get a little fuze as the people do that know won't say, again really not important. However we know approx that the VP44 is mechanically limited in Timing Advance to ~30* 

So VERY roughly again 

0 = 0* ( maybe lolol doesn't really matter)
4095 = ~32* ****** HUGE GRAIN SALT. I don't know this for sure, but it doesn't matter to this convo. 

Just know that we have to work within the Realm of the communication structure designed for the VP44 and ECM for canbus fueling. We have a MAX fuel amount of 4095 once you hit that you cannot add more fuel via canbus. That's where wiretap comes in. 

Next lets look at what type of tuners we have for our Vp44 trucks and how they work on a basic level.

 

1. Ecm flashers: Smarty's Hypers tech Really anything you upload the ECM via OBD port. 

Ecm Flashers actually go into the OEM tables and alter fueling and timing. So where the stock ECM tune is asking for 2000 the new tune will ask for 2500, hence more power. Same goes to Timing, the tables are rewrote in the ecm to have a timing curve that is geared more towards performance and MPG rather than emissions standards.

2. Canbus Tuners: Edge EZ Quadzilla ZXT, ts mvp, anything that plugs in under the hood to the data port.

These tunes watch for what the ECM outputs then alters the fueling and timing message so the VP44 see's the command from the piggy back box. canbus only tuners really end up doing the same thing as ECM flashers. They both alter the canbus message within the limitations of what we talked about above. IE ~65 hp on stock injectors

3. Wiretap only tuners: TST comp might be more not sure haha.

The TST for example does not alter what the ecm asks for, it only watches for the fueling solenoid opening then holds it open for longer thus giving you more fuel and more power.

4.Wiretap and canbus tuners: Edge Comp / juice, Quadzilla Adrenaline, redline.

Boxes that do everything like the Edge comp / juice, redline / Quadzilla Adrenaline. do the same thing as the TST, but also alter the output from the ecm in the same exact way the canbus tuners do. Think of these tuners as an Canbus tuner plus a Wiretap box.

Lets remember that canbus fueling actually makes up the vast majority of fueling / power in our trucks. Wiretap adds a good amount of power, but not nearly as much as canbus fuel. On a stock truck canbus fuel alone will get you to 300 hp wiretap will only bring that up to ~420 hp according to ricer math on the hottest tuners. so ~75% of the power is actually coming from Canbus alone and wiretap adds another ~%25 on top. 300 hp is approx %75 of 420 hp. 

So now that we have a basic understanding of tuners lets look at stacks and what they do.

Throughout this I am going to reference the Throttle pedal as if it was a volumn knob on a stereo. 0 = silent / engine off 10 being WOT or stereo as loud as it will go.

Let me start off by saying that there are good reasons to stack in some situtations. In my opinion you should never stack programmers that do the same thing. 

It is commonly accepted that you shouldn't stack 2 boxes that do timing. The thought with Stacking Timing boxes is it over advances timing causing issues. Generally unsafe I suppose. Not sure if I believe that fully, but regardless your truck will run like garbage, and you feel that in the butt dyno. We all agree it's not a good idea. 

Oh the Butt dyno....we'll get to that in a second.


But people seem to ignore the same thought process for canbus fueling. You ask ANY tuner and they would tell you that too much fuel is a bad thing for performance. We all know that "flooding" the turbo results in poor performance. So why is that the same mindset does not apply to the fueling side of tuning in the same way as the timing? Reason that no one seems to care is that there is inheriently no high risk of damage and the Butt Dyno says it works. Kinda like the facebook, if someone says it's ok on facebook then we are all good. So the masses tend to ignore overfueling as being bad. 


So the Butt Dyno, 

We REALLY need to understand that the Butt Dyno is NOT an indicator of power. The only thing the butt dyno is good for is telling you when an abrupt change in torque happens. Not how much of a change, only when. You can take 2 trucks, one of them with a VERY smooth torque curve that ramps up sooner / more power and another with a torque curve that ramps up VERY quick once 1700 rpm is reached. According to the butt dyno the latter truck is faster...but we know that is not true. So Butt Dyno is basically a change in power light bulb. "Yep power changed"

So back on topic. 

Stacking, 

So if we think about our 0 - 4095 fueling message as being directly related to 0-10 on our volume knob on the stereo ( obviously in the real world it isn't linear, but in this example it is). So loudness on canbus is 0-10.

So here we have a data log from a normal DD drive on OEM fueling on the "canin" column, you can see that in stock form once you are moving you normally see a canbus message of above 1000. So you range for fueling if you want to get going is no longer 0 - 3600, rather ~1000-3600 which makes sense it takes power to move the truck down the road. So in Stock form our volume knob has a range of 2.5-8. 2.5 = 1000 and 8 being 3600 or stock tuning max

Whats important to note is that our volume knob is stuck going no lower than 2.5 when you step on the pedal to catch the mustang in front of you. So our knobs 0 position is now 2.5 as the truck needs to move down the road.

So what happens when we add one tuner say smarty on top of OEM? Say the tuner addes %20 fuel down low, great we all love power.... Our low limit is already 2.5, but we added ~%20 up top also. cool now our knob goes up to 10. Awesome news!

So what happens if we stack 2 boxes that do Canbus Fueling? So down low the Smarty tuning in the ECM is asking for %20 over stock when you hit the skinny pedal. then the canbus piggy back box is intercepting that fueling command of (OEM + %20) and adding it's own fuel on top. So we end up with (OEM + %20) + %20 as the lowest amount of fuel we get when we want to pass someone. The stack doesn't give us more top end due to the limited size of the fueling message IE: 10 on our stereo. So our range of fueling is now %50 min and still %100 max, so our stereo only works between 5 and 10. So our volume knob's 0 is now 5. Not exactly what I would call a good setup.

so here's a visual idea of what I mean. You can see how the stacked setup just maxes out fueling sooner,  Kepe in mind our trucks fueling is in no way linear, but you can see how stacking just causes overfueling.

Most stock guys won't really see this as an issue, but what you need to see is that your throttle movement is limited to %50 of what it used to be. Same max power, it's just all moved between 0 and %50 throttle position durning DD driving. Anything over %50 is reaching that max fueling message size of 4095. so if you go to %60 you truck is just as fast as it was at %50 throttle and so forth. 


It is easy to see that you are just maxing out fueling sooner and sooner with less and less throttle travel IE less and less control over your truck. 


Stacking tuners is like only being able to control your volume on your stereo between 5 and 10. You'd be pissed if your radio never went below 5, why do you want your truck to drive the same way? 


Solution Time

I would suggest rather than just trying to max out your fueling sooner for more power you should just size your injectors correctly. You can buy injectors all day long for the same cost of a stack. Bigger injectors have the opposite effect if you can control fueling. It will give you more resolution in your pedal movement for the same allowable canbus message.

IE: 7 x .009 injectors 

0 = 0 off
2000 = 200 hp
4095 = 400hp on ricer math. ( we know thats not true)

but you can see you can use injectors and canbus together to give you move power without limiting how much throttle movement you actually have before you hit %100 fueling.

More control is a good thing. It's a brave new world, tune your truck correctly and use the throttle if you want power.



So when should you stack? It's easy....Only stack things that do different things. You only need 1 box that does each thing, canbus fueling ( from the ecm or piggy back) + timing + wiretap( if you want it). The only thing you gain by stacking boxes that do the same things is a lighter wallet. You get no more power at the cost of less control over your truck.

There are some serious design flaws in the stock fuel system. The stock lift pump or the Cummins Campaign pumps are both unable to supply enough fuel volume for a hungry Bosch VP44 injection pump. Part of the problem is the stock lift pump is only good for 35 GPH flow rate. However, even Bosch states that the Bosch VP44 injection pump needs at lets 70% of the fuel return to the fuel tank which is used for cooling and lubing the Bosch VP44 injection pump. So how much fuel does the Bosch VP44 injection pump consume at a WOT run? For a stock truck, you could see as high as 18-20 GPH. Now let's do some simple math. 35 GPH - 20 GPH = 15 GPH... Then 15 GPH / 35 GPH = 42% being return to the tank roughly. This is one point of failure with stock lift pumps.

This last picture shows the plastic hub that normally starts to slip or breaks this is why I tell people it doesn't matter if the pump makes noise because the motor might be turning, but the pump rotor is no longer spinning. Now the other failure like this is the plastic will start to slip and pressure falls as friction builds up the plastic will melt and bond again, and the pressure rises once more. This what caused the pump above to fail was slippage of the rotor.

As for the pressure regulator, I don't have a picture of this, but if you look inside the ports of the lift pump sometimes you can see the spring and check ball (BB) inside one of the ports. This body of the pump is nothing more than pot metal (cast aluminium) which the check ball rattles against the seat of the aluminium until the check ball is leaking pressure back around itself so the pump goes into constant recirculation.

The Cummins Campaign Pump is a redesigned lift pump for Cummins’ engines. It was originally designed for the Buses. The campaign pump is identical to the Dodge OEM pump, which is supplied at manufacture, yet is much cheaper in price! Unfortunately, the Campaign pump is no longer available. The ones that are attainable are very expensive; due to demand, but the part number is 4090046 if you want to take your chances.

Lift Pump FAQ's

Q: What is the voltage to the lift supposed to be?
A: Lift pump should have a constant 12 Volt supplied to it while the engine is running. During cranking the lift pump voltage is modulated 50% duty cycle to reduce starting pressure.

Q: What's a stock lift pump pressure supposed to be?
A: Normally, a good lift pump should be about 14-15 at idle and about 11-12 PSI at wide open throttle at 65 MPH.

Q: What is the lowest lift pump fuel pressure allowed?
A: No lower than 10 PSI as stated by Dodge and Cummins both. Below this pressure, Bosch VP44 injection pump damage will result.

Q: How much volume does a stock lift pump provide?
A: Approximately, 35 GPH

Q: Is the fuel pump relay in the power distribution center the relay for the lift pump?
A: No. This relay is the power supply relay for the Bosch VP44 injection pump. The lift pump has no relays and is directly controlled by the ECM.

Q: How long will a stock lift pump last?
A: I've seen a little at 10,000 miles, and some have reported as far 100,000 miles. However, at any rate, I would still have a fuel pressure gauge to monitor the lift pump health.

Written by pepsi71ocean

FOREWARD

OK guys, here is the scoop. It has long been know that Smarty S03's burn dirty. But the bigger thing here is the fact that understanding how the smarty works, and base settings to start with seem to be non existence. As a result the confusion created makes the Smarty one of the most confusing programmers on the market. However, I believe that for towing it is one of the more powerful ones when set up correctly.

There are many advantages to the Smarty S03, mainly that it is plug and play, you unplug it and you don't have extra computers or added wiring to hook up. Plus when being inspected by NJ DOT for emissions I've also passed as well, which may or may not being a big deal in your state if they have smoke tests.

I have used the Smarty since I bought it in July 2010 with 71,400 miles on the odometer. With over 54,500 miles of Smarty use, and countless experimentation; I have been studying this Smarty for more then 5 years heavily in terms of flashing the ECM with different settings, different injectors, and extensively in reference to Mike on the phone because we were trying to understand what the settings did. In the end this article got allot of help with the thread Smarty S03: Tuning & Testing of Can-bus Fueling, in which with extensive testing we were able to confirm things I long knew, but we couldn't understand what they do. Fell free to read the thread, as this write-up is backed up around how it works. In the end the Can-bus fueling thread help explain and give me the ability to articulate this article.

Without further blabbering here are my notes (using the information gathered on the Can-bus testing and other threads).

NOTE: Due to the excessive length of this article (8 pages on my computer) it is broken into sections to make it easier to get to specific areas.

NOTE: When your programming your smarty you must set your REVO settings first then flash in the SW#. Any changes to the REVO software will require to re-flash your ECM, thus requiring you go back into the SW# and reprogram.

Section Guide

1. General Notes

2. Common Smarty Issues-(Surging, sluggish acceleration etc)

3. Torque Management

4. Duration

5. Timing (includes Over-Advancement WARNING)

6. SW Settings

7. REVO

8. Smoke and Spool Up Control

9. Smoke Control (alternative method)

10. Towing and the Smarty

Section 1- General Notes

1. Duration should be increased based on the size of the injectors.

2. The Timing REVO doesn't change your timing at the top, the Smarty locks the timing at 18.02*.

3. The SW# and the REVO software work independently of one another, meaning that SW9 is not the same as TM6, T4 and D5.(REVO on max)

4. Your trucks internals make a difference, Turbo Size, transmission type, torque converter stall speed. All play a factor on your abilities to tune your truck here, and in finding you which settings work best.

5. The Smarty S03's performance bump is only good for use really between 1,200 and 2,400rpm's, but this is the area your truck is using the most.

6. The S03 locks timing at 18.02*, but the amount of throttle required to lock the timing at that ratio changes based on the Timing level. Example T4 locks the timing at say 60% throttle, rather-wise T3 is 70%, T2 is 80% etc.

7. The higher the SW level the faster you hit %100 duration in relation to throttle input.  SW3 wont hit %100 until WOT. SW5 will hit %100 duration at %50 throttle input / SW7 Will hit %100 duration at 40% throttle input. SW9 will hit %100 duration at 30% throttle input. In order for timing to lock at 18* you must have %100 duration AKA 4095 on the databus for a fueling command.   

8. Smoke control can also be controlled by mechanical means, ie raising injector pop pressure.

Section 2- Common Smarty Issues

If you have a Smarty and have the symptoms below see the sections for fine tuning.

• Cruise Control Surge<>See Torque Management

• Sluggish acceleration<>See Timing

• Smoke before spool up<>See Torque management

• Smoke on passing<>See Duration

• Not enough passing power<>See Duration

   

Section 3- Torque Management-----------------------------------------------------

This setting basically controls the low end response. The larger the Injectors you have the lower this number can be and achieve the same result. The higher the TM# with larger injectors the more smoke you will have on your pre-boost fueling.

NOTES-If your having issues with cruise control surge, this will help calm down the surging issues as you lower the TM#. With my 100hp injectors I have ZERO cruise control surge issues with my truck.

With aftermarket injectors you have really only 4 settings to choose from. I consider 3 the lowest number, the closer to stock injectors the higher you can get on the TM#. There are two exceptions to this rule, one is running a compound/twin turbo or one that is a VGT based. The other is higher popped injectors.

Torque Management
# 0 - Default<Default for the SW#>
# 1 – Factory TM
# 2 – Light TM(you need to adjust TV cable for this)
# 3 – Good for larger injectors 100hp or greater
# 4 – OK for larger injectors 75-100hp, depending on transmission TV cable setting.
# 5 – OK for larger injectors 50-75hp, depending on transmission TV cable setting.
# 6 – Good for stock Injectors,
 

Section 4-Duration-----------------------------------------------------------------------

This setting controls the length of injection. I find it is useful to set accordingly. This setting more or less controls passing power on the freeway. It is quite possible to run out of fuel when passing at higher speeds. For example on #2 I was good for passing at 35-40 mph, but the truck couldn't pass at highway speeds of 65-70mph. If you set this to high you WILL roll coal on the freeway when passing even after the turbo has lite up.

Injection duration
# 0 - Default<Default for the SW#>
# 1 – Stock duration
# 2 – Good for Injectors below 75 HP
# 3 – Good for 75-100 HP
# 4 – Good for 100 HP
# 5 – Good for larger then 100 HP

Section 5-Timing----------------------------------------------------------------

The term Timing is very miss-leading here. The Timing settings don't change your timing, but they do change when the timing locks at 18.02*. For trucks with larger injectors you should read this section thoroughly and the Over Advancement warning below as well.

Unlike what is commonly believed here, the Smarty locks your timing once you cross a tps% threshold, and keeps it locked, even if you push your throttle in farther. Now the tps% threshold is dictated by two factors the SW# and the Timing#. In the chart below you can see where the Timing is locked by the tps%. Now the higher your SW# the faster your reaching that 100% tps fueling, regardless of where your foot is on the pedal. When driving with larger injectors this can become an issue when the tps locks so low that you can't spool your turbo, and no amount of Torque Management or Duration will fix this, just exacerbate it.

When driving or towing, (automatic or manual), you need to find which movement of the pedal is normal for you, How much control you desire is based on the SW#, and then locking your timing can then be adjusted based on your Timing#.

NOTES

• When running larger injectors on #4, you need to be careful because it can cause to much timing, adjusting the SW# down by one number (ie 9-7-5) to change this.
  Larger Injectors can run more timing on a lower SW#, but the higher it is the lower the number has to be. This is because the SW#9 setting runs cruise timing at a different rate because it's fooled on the ECM.

• Running the SW# on an even number results in stock timing, however changing the timing revo will revert the truck back to Smarty timing. Bottom Line Timing on 3 is the same weather your running an Even or an odd SW#.

• The smarty locks the timing regardless of the Timing # at 18.02*, however the SW# and the higher the Timing can change how fast it gets to that 18.02* and how much pedal is required. Note that to much timing can cause negative torque which I expand on more below when detecting for it.

• The size of and pop pressure of your injectors also plays a major roll here, as they effect combustion and injection. The larger your injectors the more lag you have with the mechanical timing offset, which can also eschew your numbers.

Injection Timing
# 0 – Default<Default for the SW#>
# 1 – Stock<Stock Timing>
# 2 - SW Timing for stock injectors(locks timing about 80% throttle)
# 3 - SW Timing for aftermarket Injectors
# 4 - SW Timing for aggressive timing(locks timing about 65% throttle)
 

Step back table for Timing with larger Injectors and CaTCHER software.

Over-Advancement WARNING: Now we know that the timing is static at 18.02* so why is there over advancement you ask? Its because the Smarty will lock it in to soon. Now with stock injectors this isn't an issue, however with my larger injectors I noticed sever issues with this. There are risks here involved with locking your timing to soon especially if your towing heavy or need spool up.

So what does it feel like? This is best defined as a lack of acceleration when you push on the throttle, and the more you push down the throttle, it doesn't change anything until you get higher up around 2,000RPM. It should be noted that once it locks the timing it will keep it locked from that %tps onward, so adding more throttle will not pull your timing!!! If you do find yourself experiencing this it's best to back off the Timing 1 notch. Or lower your SW# by a CaTCHER setting.

This is a game here, Some trucks will run better on a lower SW# with a higher Timing#, others benefit from lower Timing, and Higher SW#.

Section 6 SW Settings----------------------------------------------------

The higher the SW# then more aggressive the throttle response from idle up. Remember the gain in HP at the top is the same, however what you are using the smarty for is the low and mid range bump. The higher the SW# the lower the bump moves in RPM. So low that on SW#9 its about right off idle.

Now there is a trade off here, the higher the SW# the lower the tps is shown to the ECM, as a result you truck runs with better cruise timing. However, you must remember as was covered in the Timing Section, that the Smarty will lock the Timing at 18.02* as well if you get on the pedal. Smoke control is achievable by using a higher SW# because it fuels harder to spool faster, but this can also be achieved with the TM Revo.
 

When you start running larger injectors you will notice more benefits from running lower SW#'s because you get better control with your feet when it comes to acceleration and torque. Your gain with running SW9 with larger injectors diminishes with the larger the injector because you are now over fueling, it makes the truck harder to drive.

NOTES

• When towing use the lower the SW# the better you have control over towing.

• Remember that the Even SW# are fueling only, unless you switch the Timing# to something other then the default of the Catcher.

• Choosing a SW# for towing varies by injector size, turbo spooling, and other variables, but its best to start looking around SW5.

Here is the SW Table

SW# 1 : Fuel Saver
SW# 2 : Only more fuel and Boost fooling
SW# 3 : Like # 2 + added timing
SW# 4 : “Soft” CaTCHER no added timing
SW# 5 : Like # 4 + added Timing
SW# 6 : Mild CaTCHER no added timing
SW# 7 : Like # 6 + added Timing
SW# 8 : CaTCHER no added timing
SW # 9 : CaTCHER with Timing

Section 7 REVO-----------------------------------------------------------------

Now that we have a good understand of how the interact with each other, this is the best way to get your adjustments in. Understand that each SW power level will require a different input form the REVO side. The results you see will be based on the injector size, turbo size, and other modifications you have. I've found it best to have a notepad handy and take notes of observations. When testing you want to go through the broad range, and NOT do WOT tests as they will not give you an idea of how your truck will drive with the different settings.

When adding in your revo settings its best to find a good mix of them all. In this case I've found that the SW5 and SW7 levels work great for towing use. And even with larger injectors the lower the SW# the better it is. My 100's run great on SW5 for towing, She has good throttle range for towing use, the Smarty ramps up hard higher up in the rpm range, to where you need that for spool. Towing from 1,600-2,300rpm is much better.

Section 8 Smoke and Spool up Control--------------------------------------

When you start using the CaTCHER software, its best to start planting your TM and Timing and Duration based on the tables I wrote up above, and make adjustments as necessary.

NOTE:If you want more low end response raise the TM# up one notch.

NOTE:If you want to add more passing power raise Duration up one notch.

Its best to find the limits of what you need. For example with Duration I found that 5 made smoke on passing, and 3 I ran out on the high way, so backing to 4 was ideal. The pyrometers will be effected by this, as the injection duration is in blocks, You can't make finite adjustments, however the extra fueling between 3 and 5 is enough with 100hp injectors to get passing power smoke.

Torque Management will work in a similar fashion, the low end rolling boost is proportional to the TM# and injector size. When I had TM set to 6 I couldn't even use cruise control and had smoke if I pushed the pedal to fast, lower the TM# and the issues went away. And even so the cruise control and smoke issues got less as I dropped the TM from 6 to 4, and found that 2 was unusable, but 3 worked best for me. I still believe that the smaller the injectors the higher you can raise the TM# without these effects.

Even so the two are still connected, you can still roll coal with TM#6 with duration on 2 or 3 with larger injectors. Because the TM will still control the spool up on the passing side of the turbo. This is important to note as this can confuse people when it comes to tuning for smoke control.

Section 9-Smoke Control(alternative method)-----------------------------------------------------

All of this is designed to help with smoke control and tune-ability so that you can get a good running truck. However, if you find yourself in the a situation where you have low end smoke and your running out of passing power, you may want to check and get your injectors popped. I advise a base of at least 300 if not higher based on injector size. I set my 100's to 322 BAR and have no smoke even after making tuning adjustments.

Section 10-Towing with the Smarty

Towing with the Smarty can turn your truck into an towing beast. This is where I believe the smarty shines. For me I have found that the lower the SW# the more control you have, especially if you find yourself towing heavy routinely. Now what makes your settings unique is determined by the size of injectors, your turbo charger size, transmission type, and upgrades to your transmission. Its best to run a lower SW# either 3-5-7. As you raise the SW# the response will rise. If your towing you will want to prevent the Smarty from locking the timing at too low of a %tps, Understand that the torque put out by the Smarty is not RPM dependent, but tps dependent.

When towing, or climbing in mountains you will see more benefit from the lower SW# because it gives you better control with your feet when towing/acceleration control. The larger the injectors the less of an offset you will need for pedal movement to get that added HP/TQ. When you do reach the lock up tps% for timing its better to have it at a higher throttle percentage for this reason. The 18.02* of timing is very safe and stout for 1,800rpm's but it is actually not enough at 2,400rpm's. Which is the reason why the Smarty gives you the torque you need farther down.

The larger the injector the harder it fuels the higher the SW, so extra smoke is just wasted fuel, In these cases its better to have the torque at a higher throttle percentage especially for slipper/wet/or wintry roads!

When towing if you find yourself running out of passing power, or climbing hills where you need more boost increase your Duration by a click. If you are finding to much oomph on SW9 turn the TM back a bit, or raise your TM# and lower the SW#. Either can get you there. But understand the effects of the timing locking.
 

Conclusion----------------------------------------------------------------------------

I know this was very drawn out, but it should give you a really good understanding of how the Smarty works. If you have questions about tuning feel free to send me a PM and ask questions.

John Armstrong Jr.

Revision 1.3   Date 2-3-2019