Fuel Injector Operation

High-pressure fuel is supplied from the Bosch VP44 injection pump, through a high-pressure fuel line, through a steel connector, and into the fuel injector. When fuel pressure rises to approximately 31,026 kPa (4,500 psi), the needle valve spring tension is overcome. The needle valve rises and fuel flows through the spray holes in the injector nozzle tip into the combustion chamber. The pressure required to lift the needle valve is the nozzle opening pressure. This is sometimes referred to as the “pop” pressure setting.

Each fuel injector is connected to each high-pressure fuel line with a steel connector. This steel connector is positioned into the cylinder head and sealed with an o-ring. The connectors are sealed to the high-pressure fuel lines with fittings. The ferrule on the end of the high-pressure fuel line pushes against the steel connector when the fuel line fitting is torqued into the cylinder head. This torquing force provides a sealing pressure between both the fuel line to the connector and the fuel connector-to-fuel injector. The fitting torque is very critical. If the fitting is under-torqued, the mating surfaces will not seal and a high-pressure fuel leak will result. If the fitting is over torqued, the connector and injector will deform and also cause a high-pressure fuel leak. This leak will be inside the cylinder head and will not be visible. The result will be a possible fuel injector miss-fire and low power.

The fuel injectors use hole-type nozzles. High-pressure flows into the side of the injector and causes the injector needle to lift and fuel to be injected. The clearances in the nozzle bore are extremely small and any sort of dirt or contaminants will cause the injector to stick. Because of this, it is very important to do a thorough cleaning of any lines before opening up any fuel system component. Always cover or cap any open fuel connections before a fuel system repair is performed.

Each fuel injector connector tube contains an edge filter that breaks up small contaminants that enter the injector. The edge filter uses the injectors pulsating high pressure to break up most particles so they are small enough to pass through the injector. The edge filters are not a substitute for proper cleaning and covering of all fuel system components during repair.
The bottom of each fuel injector is sealed to the cylinder head with a 1.5mm thick copper shims (gasket). The correct thickness shim must always be re-installed after removing an injector.
Fuel pressure in the injector circuit decreases after injection. The injector needle valve is immediately closed by the needle valve spring and fuel flow into the combustion chamber is stopped. Exhaust gasses are prevented from entering the injector nozzle by the needle valve.

Fuel Injector Removal

The fuel injectors are located in the top of the cylinder head between the intake/exhaust valves.

1. Disconnect both negative battery cables from both batteries. Cover and isolate end of cables. Each fuel injector is connected to each high-pressure fuel line with a steel connector tube. This steel connector is positioned into the cylinder head and sealed with an o-ring. The connectors are connected to high-pressure fuel lines with fittings.
2. If injector at #1 or #2 cylinder is being removed, intake manifold air heater assembly must be removed.
3. If injector at #5 cylinder is being removed, remove engine lifting bracket (2 bolts).
4. Thoroughly clean area around injector and injector high-pressure lines before removal.
5. Remove necessary high-pressure fuel lines. (Refer to - Injection Lines). Do not bend any high-pressure fuel line to gain access to the fuel injector. Cover or cap any open fuel connections.
6. Remove valve cover.

Mopar's Notes

Most of us will be doing full injector upgrades or replacements. So I know the service manual talks as if replacing 1 or 2 injectors. I highly suggest you remove every as pictured below.

APPS Sensor - Removal. Leave the throttle cable attached and lay on the PDC box.

Remove the intake and grid heaters by pulling the 4 bolts and the band clamp. Lay the intake and grid heater aside on the PDC box.

Remove the valve cover.

Remove the injection lines

Here is a copy of the fuel system specifications from the Dodge Factory Service Manual.  This is for your Dodge Cummins Turbo diesel truck with a Bosch VP44 injection pump.

Fuel pressure

Normal fuel pressure should float about 14-15 PSI running down the pavement. It should never fall below 10 PSI at all. Here is a colorize fuel pressure gauge to give you a clue of the fuel pressure span you want. You want the needle to stay in the green at all times. Yellow zone is a warning that you should check the fuel filter, lift pump performance, overflow valve, etc.

This is undocumented maximum pressure is 20 PSI. Now take notice to the overflow valve is set for 14 PSI so excessive pumping of fuel does nothing for performance except create more heat in the fuel, which in turns reduces the cooling ability of the fuel and adds more stress to the lift pump. So a little extra fuel pressure is a good thing because it ensures the Bosch VP44 injection pump stays cooled and lubricated properly. However, excessive fuel pressure will heat the fuel and reduced the cooling ability of the fuel.

Now always remember that the only lubrication the Bosch VP44 injection pump will see is the fuel itself so if you don't have enough fuel pressure it will cause damage to the Bosch VP44 injection pump. It's like the same as running the engine with low oil pressure it will continue to run, but the damage to the engine will occur. On the other hand, the Bosch VP44 injection pumps, which happen to be about $1,200 to replace.

Pressure Drop

The amount of fuel pressure drop between idle and wide-open throttle. 2-3 PSI drop from idle to WOT is normal. However, 5 PSI or more pressure drop from idle to WOT is pointing out a failed lift pump, plugged filter, and/or plumbing restrictions.
2-3 PSI Is Normal    Dropping more than 5 PSI is pointing towards a failed lift pump, plugged filter, or restrictive plumbing.

Just to show you the difference in the stock plumbing which is 6mm ID plumbing and most performance pumps come with 1/2" ID plumbing. These pictures will give you an idea... The first picture is a Big Line fitting over the top of the stock plumbing. Then the second picture compares the stock 6mm ID steel lines to a 1/2" ID Big Line hose.

The best way to show this example of restrictions is to let's say your house is on fire. You know your garden hose has 80 PSI of pressure, but the garden hose is only 5/8" ID hose. Your wife calls 911 and gets the fire department coming in the meantime you keep fighting the fire with your little 5/8" garden hose and losing the battle. The fire department shows up and pulls a 2 1/2" hose off the truck and charges it at 80 PSI and now winning the battle. Your fire is put out! What is so different? No matter what the size of the fuel line will dictate how much volume can be pushed through the fuel line. Like the story above the water pressure was the same at 80 PSI, but the hose size jumped from 5/8" to 2 1/2" ID hose and the volume changes are the size of hose. So the same thing applies to the stock fuel system. The stock banjo bolts and 6mm ID pipes are just too restrictive and cannot supply enough volume of fuel for that Bosch VP44 injection pump demands. This why I highly suggest you go up to 1/2" ID plumbing.

Reasons Why Fuel Pressure Is Critical

Let's take a look at a Bosch VP44 injection pump. I've labeled the fuel lines supplying fuel and return line plus the overflow valve. Now I know there is a ton of rumors on the internet of all kinds of minimum pressures for a Bosch VP44 injection pump. I'm going to say stick with the Dodge Factory Service Manual Specifications for fuel pressure. Now let's talk a bit more about the flow of the fuel. The lift pump supplies pressurized fuel to the Bosch VP44 injection pump the overflow valve regulates how much fuel pressure is held. Excessive fuel pressure is returned to the fuel tank.

The picture below is of the bleed hole in the overflow valve this image was magnified x10 to show you how small the bleed hole really is. Give you an idea the size of the hole use a single strand of 14 AWG copper wire, and it will NOT fit the hole. The bleed hole is there solely for bleeding air out of the system which air will pass through this tiny hole rather easy but fuel will not. However, if you're looking for long life from a Bosch VP44 injection pump, I would personally suggest you adjust your minimum pressure to 14 PSI this will ensure the overflow valve remain open and a constant fuel flow through the Bosch VP44 injection pump and keep it cool all the time.

Let me play out a simple scenario. Let's say my fuel pressure is roughly 10-11 PSI. I'm going to drive up into the back country approximately 40 miles with my Dodge Cummins towing an 8x8 utility trailer. Now the whole trip heading uphill into the mountain towing an empty trailer is going to be enough fuel flowing to the injectors to keep the Bosch VP44 injection pump happy. However, I've spent the day and loaded up with firewood and now coming back down the mountain loaded. I'm using my exhaust brake and coasting most of the way down taking it slow and easy. At this point, the injectors are no longer firing so the Bosch VP44 injection pump is not pumping fuel out to the injectors. Furthermore, the overflow valve closes at about 10-11 PSI so let's say it did close. Now where is the fuel going??? Nowhere! It is pooled up in the injection pump and gaining heat and being broke down. You've also removed the cooling and lubricating of the Bosch VP44 injection pump so now it actually taking on damage.

To give you a feel for the fuel flow coming from the injection pump with an AirDog 150 at 17.5 PSI of fuel pressure, I've got a video to explain that quickly.

I've heard rumors of some people trying to develop a cool down system for the Bosch VP44 Injection pump but after making the video above, there is just no way to cool down the injection pump using the lift pump of even the AirDog/FASS series. The whole problem is the restrictions inside the Bosch VP44 injection pump and the overflow valve as seen in the video above. So the only way to keep the Bosch VP44 injection pump cool is to keep fuel flowing through it at all times. So to keep the overflow valve open I suggest the 14 PSI minimum pressure. I'm currently at 136K miles on my Bosch VP44 injection pump and still going strong using a 16 PSI minimum pressure and an 18 PSI idle pressure.

Here is a short video of stable fuel pressure from 55 MPH to 70 MPH at WOT.

Here is another video done with idling, cruising, and WOT operation. Yes. I got a bit carried away and sloshed the fuel in the tank and sucked an air bubble and the pressure fell off.

Cranking Pressure Test

Here is a simple test on how to do the test for cranking fuel pressure. Pull the fuel pump relay in the PDC and then attempt to start the engine. Pay attention to the fuel pressure gauge during cranking. Be aware this test will trip a P1689 code and light the CHECK ENGINE light. Excessive cranking pressure can lead to difficult starting problems.

Suggested Lift Pump Replacement

You should replace the stock fuel system completely since it cannot supply enough fuel for even stock requirements without causing damage to the Bosch VP44 injection pump or adding stress to the lift pump. The pumps I suggest are proven and come with a lifetime warranty. These pumps come with a full kit and replace everything from the fuel tank to Bosch VP44 injection pump.

    AirDog 100, 150, or 165

    Raptor 100 or 150

    FASS 100 or 150
    FASS DDRP (DDRP Ver.2 - 89 GPH)

I don't suggest these pumps... Because they don't address the pump location, plumbing restrictions, or come with much of warranty.

    Stock Carter or Carter Campaign Pump (4090046)

    Holley Blue or Holley Black

    FASS DDRP (DDRP Ver.1 - 40 GPH)

    AirTex

Mopar's Notes: That was true for the DDRP Ver.1 However, DDRP-02 is rated at 89 GPH and will hold pressure. It is listed as a Stock replacement pump designed to perform better than the Stock pump, but not for Chips that add fueling.

I place a Power Puck on my truck with the DDRP-02 and saw no difference in FP at either idle or WOT, (PP is a timing chip doesn't change the amount of fuel).

That said the PP is currently removed from my truck as I overpowered my clutch both loaded and unloaded, back to the stock clutch is fine.
Looking for a Valair possible DD organic, or SD Kevlar/Ceramic. It is currently in the stock location and giving 15 psi at idle and 10 at WOT.

Information Provided By: rhagfo
http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/98-5-02-powertrain/404412-fass-ddrp-02-a.html#post4197714

Additional Information (About Performance Crowds & Fuel Pressure)

I've seen several times where people will link back to performance pump builders and quoting where they say, "(Un-named) proved that 5 PSI, under load, made all the horsepower the VP44 pump could make, even with stock fuel lines, fittings and supply pump." This might be true but there is nothing ever said about the life span of the pump at these conditions. So... Please do not follow these performance crowds into destroying a perfectly good Bosch VP44 injection pump.

The fact still remains from Bosch the actual designer of the Bosch VP44 injection pump states that injection pump should return 70% of the fuel back to the fuel tank for cooling and lubrication purpose of the VP44. Being the only way a Bosch VP44 injection pump can do this is to have fuel pressure above 14 PSI to open the overflow valve. Then if the stock Bosch VP44 injection pump with an enhancement box say an Edge Comp on 5x5 can consume 15-20 GPH that means the stock 35 GPH pump cannot keep up with Bosch's design of 70% return volume. So this why products like AirDog, Raptor and FASS was created because they actually meet the demands of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. Then another fact that Bosch will let you know of is that diaphragm damage occurs from operating the Bosch VP44 injection pump at low fuel pressures. Making matters worse is that no Bosch injection re-builder will void warranty a VP44 injection pump with diaphragm damage. Dead give away that you had a bad lift pump or low fuel pressure problems.

Please view the Bosch VP44 exploded view page to see there is no diaphragm in the Revision 027 Bosch VP44 Injection Pump

Then the other fact is right from the Dodge Factory Service Manual has the minimum fuel pressures (picture at the top of the page). It even states the pressure that the overflow valve requires to open. Refer to the Overflow Valve Testing from the Dodge Factory Service Manual and see that the overflow valve should remain closed at 10 PSI and open by 14 PSI. So if the overflow valve is close by 10 PSI, then you extra cooling and lubrication just disappeared.

So ultimately it suggested having a fuel system of no less than 100 GPH supply that can maintain a minimum pressure of 14-15 PSI at WOT. This will great extend the life of the VP44 because it keeps the electronics cooler longer and keeps the rotating parts lubricated properly.

So please people let the facts and information from the actual designers of the injection pump (Bosch) and engine (Cummins) provide you proper information for your fuel system for your engine. Don't be swayed by performance shops claim of high horse output with little fuel pressure. As I proved right here doesn't work for the longevity of the VP44 injection pump...

Another thing to bring up there are people that are increasing fuel pressures above 20 PSI. Please don't do this. The return port leaving the VP44 pump isn't very big at all. The return port is on the left and supply is on the right. As you can see increasing fuel pressures above 20 PSI put you at risk for shaft seal failure. Increasing the pressure above 20 PSI isn't going to improve the return flow. I say stick with the 14-20 PSI pressure range for seal safety. 

 
Additional Information (About Maximum Flow Rates)

Here are some calculated flow abilities of the stock fuel system vs. 1/2" big line kits. This is not calculating bend, turns, offices just straight flow for open end plumbing and this is a rough calculation.

Pipe Size    Gallon Per Hour Flow Rate    Gallon Per Minute Flow Rate
6mm ID pipe    75 GPH @ 15 PSI    1.2 GPM @ 15 PSI
1/2" ID pipe    570 GPH @ 15 PSI    9.5 GPM @ 15 PSI

Use The banjo bolt Shrader valve to test for fuel pressure, Item 3 in the above diagram.  

If you have a 98-99 truck the port might be on top of the fuel filter housing.  You can see the 90* bend fitting coming out of the top of the fuel filter housing in the below picture.  Install a Shrader valve and test from there.

I'm hearing of tales of shops, mechanics, or dealers doing the old hook up the fuel pressure gauge and only checking fuel pressure at idle. This is wrong. Because I've seen lots of cases where fuel line restriction, fuel filter plugging, gelling fuel and other thing causing fuel pressure to drop out under load. Like this video from a friend of mine, you'll see he's got awesome fuel pressure at an idle (where most shops gave him the green light). However, what the shops did not test for is WOT at highway speed, and you'll see in the video, he can pull way down to 0 PSI. Anything under 14 PSI is a concern... Anything under 10 PSI is a serious problem. As for having a gauge in the cab all Dodge Cummins trucks should have a fuel pressure gauge in the cab. Because like you seen bench testing with an idle pressure is meaningless if you can't see the WOT pressure at highway speed.

Symptoms that lead me to start changing these parts were...

-Hard starts with the nose of the truck pointed up hill after 4+ hours

-Loss of prime

-Longer cranking of the engine

-Point nose down hill the truck would fire up no problems.

Starting with the T on the fuel return lines.

The easiest way to locate this T is to find your return banjo on the VP44 (looking down at it, it's the one of the left) and follow that hard line towards the back of the engine. Eventually you will find a brass T with one line coming down from the back of the head (we'll cover that later) and another line going down towards to the fuel tank.

You can use the Part number lookup tool to find the Part Numbers

The following diagrams might help as well.

Part #3 in this diagram

Part #29 from this diagram. You'll be replacing the grommets that are #32 in this diagram.

It'll look like this

You'll need a 16mm wrench to get the caps off. It's easiest to get all 3 loose to the point where you can unscrew them by hand, that way you avoid the T from spinning. Once off, you can twist the T to let the fuel lines slide out. The end of the fuel lines will have a belled or flared end, like a trumpet or other brass instrument.

It will look like this once out.

Old grommets on top, new on bottoms. One thing of note here, the old grommets didn't look that bad. If I wasn't having fuel issues I don't think I would've changed them so keep that in mind.

At the time of this article the cheapest I could find these grommets was from Geno's located HERE part #3905351

From here it'd be a good idea to clean things up a bit with a scotch bright pad or something similar. I cleaned the fuel T and the fuel lines. I sprayed the fuel T with brake cleaner and then dried it off with compressed air.

Re-assembly is the same as taking it apart. Just get the nuts on there loosely at first until all 3 nuts are on the fuel T and then tighten them down equally as you'll see once things get tighter the fuel T will want to move. Tighten the nuts down so they are firmly snug, but not over tightened. Otherwise the nut will just keep compressing the grommet to the point it's ineffective. It helped me to disconnect the oil dipstick and other connectors that are in the area to free up room for wrench operation.

****************************************************************************************

Next, the washers on the banjo bolt at the back of the head are also culprits which can cause hard starts and loss of prime and if you're experiencing the issues stated before, you might as well replace them.

In this diagram the banjo you want it #2 and the washers you'll replace are #4 &#5 which are the same even though listed differently.

**Obviously with a cold engine**

The best way to tackle this job is to get some thick moving blankets and lay them on top of the engine bay and get ready to crawl! While laying on top of the engine, reach around the back of the engine on the left side. You'll be looking (read:feeling) for this.

Using a 17mm wrench you can get the banjo off. Remember that righty tighty lefty loosey will be backwards in this instance! You don't want to snap off the banjo in the head!!

Once out, clean up things to help with re-installation.

Here is the banjo removed with old washers on the left and new on the right. I got the washers from my local dodge dealership part #05016555AB but you can also get them from Genos HERE

Replacement is straight forward. Just make sure that you get banjo washers on both ends of the banjo.

Like this

With final installation make sure that you get the banjo bolt tight, but again DO NOT OVER TIGHTEN! The bolts are somewhat fragile and could/will snap off if tightened too much.

This short article is how to remove the injection lines from your Dodge Cummins 24 valve engine.

Most all fuel system work requires removal of the high-pressure injection lines from the Bosch VP44 injection pump to the head. I'm going to show you how easy it really is to remove the high-pressure injection lines from the Cummins 24v engine.

The first parts you need to remove a few things from the area to make room.

• APPS Sensor
• Intake Tube
• Grid Heaters

It doesn't require complete removal of these parts, but it does require them to be moved. So like the 4 bolts on the intake and 1 clamp and then lay the tube and heater over by the PDC box. Same goes for the APPS sensor 3 bolts and disconnect the sensor plug and lay over with the Intake tube.

WARNING! Make sure to pack the manifold and intercooler tube with rags to prevent parts or debris falling into the tube or engine!

Now look at the top of the intake manifold you'll see the high-pressure injection lines holders are bolted down to the intake manifold cover. There 5 bolts (10mm) you got to remove. This will release the high-pressure injection lines from the intake manifold.

Now look back of the intake manifold there is an engine hoist ring take the 2 bolts (15mm) out of that and remove it. The will allow access to cylinder number 6.

Now everything should be loose and ready to removed. The first batch of high-pressure injection lines with being the front set which will be 1,2,4. When you look at the Bosch VP44 injection pump it will be these. The picture below is showing just the front set of high-pressure injection lines and the position on the Bosch VP44 injection pump.

Now the rear set of high-pressure injection lines come off. Cylinders 3,5,6

For those that don't want to spend thousands on expensive units and don't quite trust china special sold at many places, you can make your own out of bottle jack. I've also tossed the idea of buying hydraulic cylinder type pump made for body work. It already has a hose that would be easy to adapt to fittings or just adapt right at the pump as it's threaded. 

But since I had this 4ton jack for last 10 years not doing much I decided to use it. Keep in mind not all jacks are going to be put together same way or have same size internals. One thing you need to make sure is that it can be disassembled, most new seem to be welded now, probably cheaper to make that way. 

There are more than one way of making this work, some use a tap on the main cylinder where all the pressure is built and not even using the part that travels (piston?), then use a bushing to reduce to 1/4" pipe and go from there. To me it seemed that you would need to machine the top nut that holds jack together so your bushing can get through, you would also need a bigger tap, in my case it would of been a 1" they don't give good ones away. I had a 1/2x14 tap already and the inside of the piston that travels in my case was hollow and pretty close to tap size, a little on the lose side but it worked, later I decided to weld it to be sure. I suppose you can drill it so the fitting just fits inside and weld it in to begin with, so no tap required. 

Some actually thread the nut that holds it together on inside where oring is and reduce it from there to 1/4" npt so no inside piston needed at all. Like I said there are plenty ways of doing this. You may come up with one that works best for you. 

As you can see in picture above I cut off few inches of the piston, these parts aren't used just showing where a tap would fit. Here it is already tapped with 1/2-14 npt.

I also drilled 2 holes on the sides of main cylinder and went in to piston a bit then filled it with weld make sure to have a good welder that penetrates and makes a good seal. The actual piston is an inch below the holes, it still has the rubber sealing ring on it. One thing I didn't mention, you have to drill a hole all the way through the piston so fluid can make its way in to top part where the threaded part is. Here is what it looks like after it's welded with the 1/2" x 1/4" npt male on both sides fitting. Then I ground off excess weld and tapered it some so the big nut can go right over.

Now you got 1/4" mnpt sticking out that you can adapt a 1/4" npt T. One side of a T is a male that I put a 1/4" npt female to metric male 14x1.25 the other is for the guage. I used a Carbo guage form eBay, says carbousa but it's made in china. I believe it's a decent guage for the money, I may get a better one later that's also bigger for accuracy. The metric thread where you see oring needs to be slightly tapered inside so the injection line seals, oring is not used. I used a drill bit to put some angle inside, worked for me.

I plugged the original oil fill hole and tapped another one down low with 1/8"x27 tap, then used some local hardware store fittings to go to a paint cup that I got from harbor freight, comes in a pack of 5 really cheap for what they are. They are threaded with female 3/8" npt, so you need a reducer to go to 1/4" then to 1/8" npt. I suppose you can tap a 1/4" npt in the housing and just use 1/4" all the way. I didn't use a filter like I planned to, maybe I will in future, for now I make sure fuel I put in is clean.

I got a fuel line from a local CAT dealer, guy I know works at parts counter and he was able to get me a free line that is 14x1.25 metric. It was a used line that apparently they don't reuse on jobs just toss them and always put new ones on, at least that's what I was told, ether way it worked out for me.

As for the adaptor for 24 valve vp44 injectors, I went with accuratediesel made in usa. I'm sure you can find others.

https://www.accuratediesel.com/5-9l-dodge-cummins-vp44-24v-injector-pop-test-adapter-fixture.html

Guess that's about it, like I've mentioned this can be done more than one way, maybe simplified too.

One thing to remember is to clean everything very well before final assembly, this even goes for if you decide to buy one on line, I would highly recommend to disassemble it and go through it. It won't take much with that kind of pressure to ruin something. I also used teflon tape for sealant, make sure to stay back with it on threads so it doesn't get inside. Now that we're talking high pressure, it is very dangerous if you get injected with diesel fuel you can get seriously hurt. So make sure you are comfortable in your building skills and wear proper ppe when working around high pressures, a good respirator is not a bad idea. This project is not for everyone. Good luck if you chose to go this route.

The Quadzilla Flasher program requires NetFrameWork 3.5  Ensure you download that and install it if you don't have it already.

https://www.microsoft.com/en-us/download/details.aspx?id=21

*****For Windows 10 you must follow the Embedded PDF to a T.

******For Windows 8 the step 1 process will not work, you need to disable signed drivers manually.   Follow the webpage below and then run step 2 after you complete the below. 

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/disabling-driver-signature-on-windows-8/disabling-signed-driver-enforcement-on-windows-8

****** For Windows 7 you don't need to run Step 1.  Windows 7 allows for unsigned drivers to be installed without alterations to the OS.  Only run Step 2.

Please print out the follow or use a second computer / Phone to keep this window up.  THIS WILL REQUIRE A REBOOT.

Once you have read and reread the directions you can download the flasher program.  

Quadzilla Flasher Installer 32 Bit

QuadFlashInt32bit.zip

Quadzilla Flasher Installer 64 bit

QuadFlash64Int.zip

V2 Tuning will only work if you have the Iquad setup.  PV1 / PV2 and POD screens WILL NOT WORK

V2 Tuning Flash Files 

The latest flash files are hosted here

https://mopar1973man.com/files/category/14-2nd-generation-24-valve-tunes/

The AirDog 150 fuel pump is a good design kit. It comes complete with all hardware, mountings, fitting, hoses etc. to hook up to your Dodge Cummins Truck. It was rather easy to install on my truck since I already had a Vulcan Big line Kit and Carter campaign lift pump.

Mounting suggestion (for 4WD trucks) is that you push the pump forward towards the transfer case so the skid plate can protect the pump and filters from road debris. But make sure you leave enough room to access the transfer case for fluid checks and drain and fill service.

As for doing plumbing it rather straight forward. Route the hose and cut to size. But I'll make another suggestion. Look your routing over very carefully for a place to protect the fuel line from damages (sharp body edges, tight spots that could pinch, or get snagged by road debris, etc) Also remember to include enough room for your connectors. Below is the return fuel setup.

As for doing the electrical is also very straight forward too. It was designed rather good too. Looks just like stock wire harness. Suggestion for routing of wiring. The pump power leg should be routed with the taillight harness on the truck then you can zip-tie to the existing wiring and it look rather factory looking. The relay and fuse can be mounted on the firewall by the ABS controller. There is an existing ground wire in this location and I utilized the screw to mount both the fuse and relay on this ground screw.

Draw straws Install (Old School)

Now for the draw straw kit took some time and consideration. You got to ways of installing the draw straw by pulling the bed of the frame or to drop the tank. Since I've got a topper on my bed and lots of stuff in the bed of my truck it would be best to drop the tank. Here is a picture of the tank removed and I did prop it up on wood so the bottom of the tank didn't get flattened.

Now you got to drill your hole for the draw straw. I use a 1¼" I drilled it on a high spot of the tank towards the front. After a period of time has passed now I found out that the hole should be smaller like 1 1/8" hole.

Basically, now all you got to do is assemble the draw straw part and install it into the tank. But you'll find out that the straw is a bit too long and needs to be trimmed. I pushed the straw into place and measured the amount that it was sticking out of the grommet then trimmed it off. I did add some grooves to the bottom of the straw to keep it from sucking flat to the bottom.

Now I get asked a lot about how much gap to the bottom of the tank you need for the draw straw. This is an easy answer you want to place a quarter (coin) on the bottom of the tank and the tip of the draw straw should just touch that. Seem tight, right? Well think about the weight of diesel at roughly 6.6 pounds per gallon there will be 60 pounds of diesel pressing down on the tank bottom at a quarter tank so this measurement will widen with more fuel and less as the tank empties. I lightly notched the tip of the draw straw to keep if from ever sucking flat to the bottom. As for performance I've managed to run down below 1/8 tank warning light several different times now with no problems.

So now you should be complete. The Draw Straw should be all assembled and installed in the tank. So now re-install the fuel tank and hook up fuel line going to the AirDog 150.

All you need to do now is re-prime your fuel system.

My results were great. I've got awesome fuel pressure now.

First this was done on a 2x4, short bed truck.  As I understand it, the long bed has to have the bumper removed or the bed will hit it.

Tools:

10mm & 15mm socket

Flat & Phillips tip screw drivers

7mm socket for hose clamps on filler tube (Optional).

Hose loosening tool (Optional).

strap Wrench (Maybe Optional).

Prop rod for bed (48" on 2x4 truck)

The first thing I did was to remove the spare tire to remove as much weight as possible.  Im not sure if you could do this w/o removing the tire, having it out sure made things easier. 

Next I removed the license plate and the plastic piece that holds the plate onto the truck. I dont think that this needs to get removed, however I did not want to change smashing the plastic & lights, so I removed them. 

Next I removed the hoses that goto the filler neck and the vent line.  You can use a flat tip screw driver, but I preffered using a 1/4" drive 7mm socket.  I used the hose loosening tool to break the hoses loose from the tubes that come off of the filler neck so I would not have to pull on them hard.  they are just aluminum & they go into a plastic piece & I can see breaking that by cranking on it hard to get the hoses loose.

Next was to remove 4 of the 6 bed bolts, and to loosen the aft 2 bolts almost all of the way out.  If this is for a long bed truck the bumper has to get removed, and there are 8 bolts (6 out & 2 loosened).  on the Passenger side, there is a grounding strap that goes from the frame to the bed.  I used a 10mm socket & removed it from the bed. 

Once I had everything out & ready to go, we lifted the bed up & I measured how long of a prop rod I would need, and we put the bed back down.  on my truck it was exactly 48" long.  Once I cut some 1" thick wall tubing, 48" long, we lifted the bed up & I put the prop rod in.  I put it up against the frame between the front spring mount & the bed mount.

Once the bed was propped up, it was easy to get to the tank.  Next thing to do is to use a small flat tip screw driver & remove the 2 hoses going to the sending unit & the electrical connector on the sending unit.  there is a little red latch that has to get slid aft then you can push the lock on the electrical connector & slide it off of the sending unit.  Next is to get the ring that holds the sending unit to the tank.  Mine was a bear to get lose.  I used a strap wrench & got it off.  then the sending unit will come straight up & out. 

assembly is just reverse of the removal, however there is something to keep in mind.  the sending unit is 15.25" long & the tank is 14" deep (bottom of the tank to the top of the flange.  so when your tightening the ring, you have to collapse the springs on the sending unit 1.25".  if the ring that holds the sending unit is not tight, you will be able to push down on the sending unit & continue to push the springs down.  make sure you tighten the ring enough to seal the sending unit to the top of the tank but not so tight you break the threads on the ring or tank.  I had to use the strap wrench to get it tight enough to seal.  I could easily see that if you were using your hands to tighten the ring that you would think it was tight, but it is not. 

Bob

WARNING! Only disassemble and clean only 1 injector at a time. All the parts are tuned to that particular body. Don't mix and match parts!

Then before you can remove the nut you need to remove your copper washer. This can be done with a putty knife and a hammer just lightly tap the putty knife and it should be able to pry it up enough to using the putty knife or a screwdriver.

Now as I set my torque wrench for loosening and kept adding torque to the handle adjustment looking for the click and loosening of the nut. I found it at about 32 foot/pounds so I backed off to 30 foot/pounds and set the wrench. Loosen the nut.

Now you need a clean area too. I set up a shop towel and an old ashtray. I filled the ashtray with Coleman fuel (Naphtha). So I would open up the injector carefully and place all the parts in the solvent to soak. Now in the picture above there is a shim that goes in the bottom below the spring. This shim might be stuck inside the body don't sweat it let in soak in the Coleman fuel for about 5 minutes and pick it up and it will fall out.

Now that all the parts are soaking take an old scotch bright one that's been used a bit and rather soft. dip it in the solvent and light rub the nozzle clean of soot. Yes, you may rub the tip but be gentle about it. Now look at the pintle (needle) look at the tip for damage or wear... Now check it for smooth sliding action in the nozzle. If it feels rough rub the pintle gently with the scotch bright pad and it will help it out...

I was doing a mini-spray test too... Dip the nozzle in the solvent keeping the fuel hole up and holding the nozzle horizontal using a blow gun just a light burst of air will show you your spray pattern somewhat but also ensures the nozzle tip is not plugged.

Now just blow all the large parts clean and dry from the solvent. Make sure to blow the fuel passages clear.

Once you happy with the clean up and every is clean now reassembly the injector exactly the way it came apart. Put your shim in the body take notice of which side was up. You'll also notice the shim has worn marks from the spring so be sure to put it back in the right way.

The shim has to be this side up... Take notice to the side that has the wear mark for the spring...

Then place your spring the body.   

Then there is a cone shaped piece that goes on top of the spring but make sure to place the hollow side up. This is for the pintle to ride in.

The mid body goes on top of this take notice to the pins it will only go on one way...

Then your nozzle and pintle go on top to look like this...

Here is a good video of how I did each injector.

Ok Guys,

After a long waiting period here is my Injector install videos.

All three videos are sequential and should help clear up any questions remaining from Mike's article. HERE.     

Pepsi's Notes

While I used Mike's Injector Install write up, I felt that after installing and removing injectors several times I should shoot a movie that will help eliminate any of the "questions" that would pop up. I did this to help others out.

This Guide is good for all model year Cummins ISB 5.9L Engines. The Bosch VP-44 Powered ISB to be exact. The Install video is on a 1999 Dodge RAM 3500, but the ISB engine is the same, the only difference is that the Dodge RAM version has a Valve Cover that says Dodge Cummins on it.

I used Diesel Auto Power (DAP) 60 HP Injectors. They are Genuine BOSCH injectors that were bored out larger by an extra 60HP. At the time, I was shooting this movie I was diagnosing hard starts when cold conditions, even though once bled it started fine.

TOOLS NEEDED

• Adjustable Wrench
• Crows Feet Metric Set
• 3/8" Ratchet
• 6" and 12" extensions (3/8"s and 1/4")
• Metric Socket Set 10mm-21mm
• 1/4 Metric Socket Set (8mm)
• Suggested Stuff
• Trash bag
• Shop Light
• Gloves
• Air gun nozzle, to blow air down and take the dust off the motor.
• Large Flat bladed screwdriver.

Pepsi's Notes

Around 8.40 you will see blue connectors holding the High-pressure lines together in two groups when reinstalling them its best to loosen those line blocks up so that they will fit snug when you go the put it back on, and this will also prevent the fittings from crushing them selves, causing leaks. Around 13 Mins you can see all of the engine parts I took off, that are spread around to keep things organized

Pepsi's Notes

If you are going to perform a routine cleaning make sure that you do each injector one at a time and replace the injectors back into the same cylinder they came out of. Once you crush the copper wires you can usually reuse them, but understand to not cross the injectors or the copper washers, this way they will reseal correctly.

As shown in the video if your injector will not rise use a flat headed screwdriver to lift it up, don't force it.

When reinstalling the lock down bar does not tighten to spec, instead tighten your lockdown bolt till less then snug and use the crossover tube to rotate the injector ever so slightly.

Torque Settings

Injector bolts (Opposed Clamp bolt) 89-inch lbs

High pressure lines 28 ft lbs. (Slightly more than hand tight) If you're unsure use a torque wrench.

When torquing these down, if you are to loose the fuel will leak out of the head, to tight and you will have an internal leak, which will be harder to diagnose.

Most bolts you should tighten down hand tight plus 1/4 turn, or more than snug to prevent them from working loose.

Now route the MAP sensor plugs over towards the MAP sensor. And hook it up. Look down by the ECU and you find the CAN-BUS connector down there. Route its cable down there and hook it up. Now there is an another lead. It's got the grey wire (Pump lead) and the Black wire (Ground). Take the leads in one hand and using the other side the covering down away from the ends. This will give you extra wire to reach the battery for ground. Now you can hook up both black to ground on the engine and the grey wire to the red wire on the Bosch VP44 Injection Pump Stealth Cover.

Now route the main connector to the steering column or the knee bolster. Take a rag dampen with rubbing alcohol to clean the place your going to stick the velcro. Use the supplied velcro to attach the Edge Comp. Then place the Edge Comp to attach the second mating velcro.

Now go out to the turbo and cut the band clamp off the wastegate hose on the turbo side. Now unscrew the elbow out of the turbo. Now install the supplied boost elbow which looks like the same thing but it got a small hole in it. Use the supplied hose clamp and reinstall the wastegate hose.

At this point double check all your wiring and plumbing. If it's good to hook up your battery. Turn on the ignition key. At this point, you should see lights on the Edge Comp. Fire up the engine. You should be done. It took me a little over 1.5 hours to install.

The life pump is powered through the ECM via pin #15 and #35.   Every time the lift pump is energized the power drawn through the ECM causes heat.  After a few thousands cycles of start/stops this heating up and cooling down cause’s degradation in the solder joints and failure.  Another possible cause of ECM failure is higher than normal amperage load by either a larger capacity lift pump or a failing pump.   As a lift pump starts to go bad (wear internally) the AMP load is increased to overcome the resistance.  This added power draw can cause the ECM circuit board to overheat and solder joints to open. The lift pump power routed through a relay protects the ECM from power spikes and excessive amperage loads.  The power load on the ECM is now less than 200mA.  The lift pump circuit is also protected by a dedicated fuse.

MATERIALS NEEDED

1. WIRE: 4 colors if possible, size determined by load and distance, see chart.

2. Fuse holder with fuse: AMP rating determined by load.

3. Relay: Bosch type/mini ISO, terminal 87 normally open (NO) with suppressor, AMP rating determined by load. 

4. 6 (or more) solderless insulated female spade connector, 6.35 mm (.25”) sized for wire gauge.

5. 2 (or more) solderless insulated male spade connector, 6.35 mm (.25”) sized for wire gauge.

6. 1 (or more) solderless insulated barrel connector, gauge size for fuse holder.

7. 2 ring terminals, one sized for ground wire and the other sized for fuse holder connection.

8. Dielectric grease, for terminal connections.

9. Self-adhering  Velcro, for attaching relay to PDC.

10.   ¼” protective wire cover or wrap cut to length.

TOOLS

1. Wire cutter

2. Wire stripper

3. Crimping tool for solderless connectors,  a small pair of Vice-Grips will work.

4. A 13mm and 10mm  socket or wrench.

5. Volt, ohm, amp (VOA) meter with 20amp scale.

6.  Optional, Soldering gun/iron with rosin core solder

LIFT PUMP DRAW TEST

Locate the ground wire for the lift pump and place the VOA meter leads in series anywhere between a grounding point and the negative terminal/wire of the lift pump.  With the negative VOA lead connected to ground and the positive VOA lead on the negative side of the lift pump turn the meter select to the 20 amp DC scale, turn the ignition key to the on position and the lift pump will run for 5 seconds.  Read the amp draw and make note of it.  The fuse, relay and wire size will be based on it.  In this example we will use a hypothetical draw of 8.6 amps.

CHOOSING FUSE SIZE

Finding the correct fuse size is simply multiplying the load in amps times 135% (1.35).  In this example 8.6 amps multiplied by 1.35 equals 11.61 amps. The next sized fuse larger than 11.61 amps is 15 so for this example a 15 amp fuse will be used.

WIRE SIZE

Wire size is based on fuse size and length of wire.  The wire has to be able to carry a larger load and not burn up before the fuse does.  If the wire gauge is too small for a given distance then the resistance in the wire will cause a drop in voltage.  This reduced voltage reaching the lift pump will cause it to run slower and produce less pressure.  The voltage not reaching the lift pump is given off as heat. Using the wire gauge chart an 18 AWG is the minimum size used for this example.

WHAT RELAY TO USE

When an electric motor starts there can be a sharp volt/amp load placed momentarily on the relay contacts so the relay should be rated 2-3 time the motors normal amperage.  The motor in this example runs at 8.61 amps times’ 3 equals 25.8 amps so the next size relay that can be used is one rated at 30 amps.

The relay of choice is the mini ISO otherwise known as the Bosch type in either 4 or 5 terminal, normally open (NO).   Relay terminal 30 is switched power or common in, 87 is switched power out and normally open circuit (NO) when no power is applied to the relay coil.  Terminal 86 is the positive or triggering terminal and 85 is the grounding terminal for the relay coil, check relay wire diagram for specific applications.  Terminal 87a is normally closed (NC) when no power is applied to the relay coil.  If you find a relay marked 20/30 this means terminal 87a is rated for 20 amps and terminal is rated for 30 amps.

Using a relay with a built in voltage suppressor is a must.  The relay will have a resistor or diode in parallel with the relay coil.  This suppressor reduces the back flowing voltage spikes to the ECM when the power to the relay is shut off and the magnetic field around the coil collapses.  Most relays denote the use of a suppressor with a symbol of a resistor or diode in the wiring diagram printed or etched into the relay cover.  Pay extra attention to the +,-  of pins #85 and 86 when installing a relay with a suppressing diode, if not installed properly the relay can be damaged.   Napa relay part #ECH AR272 is ratted for 30 amps and has a resistor suppressor.

INSTALLATION INSTRUCTIONS OPTION A

First disconnect the batteries.  Now  determine where to place the relay.  The relay can be placed on the PDC with Velcro, my Edge EZ has been mounted to the PDC this way for over 12 years.  This will keep the electric components in one area, a shorter wire run for relay terminal 30 and no holes in the metal where rust can start.  Do not put a screw through the PDC housing; there is the risk of wire or component damage.

The source of the constant 12volt power can be either the positive terminal of the left battery or for a neater installation use the large cable stud in the PDC.   Install one end of the fuse holder using an appropriate sized ring terminal to the 12 volt terminal and with an insulated female spade connector attach the other end to relay terminal 30.

 If the wire for the fuse holder is to short connect extra length with either an insulated barrel connector or solder them together and insulate with heat shrink tubing.

Find the wire harness used for the lift pump, pulling back the protective wire wrap there will be a yellow wire with white tracer (yl/wt) and a factory connector.   This is the factory lift pump power supply and will be used as the ‘trigger’ to open and close the relay contacts.   The power source can be verified by attaching a test light or volt meter to it and turning the ignition key to the on position, there will be 12 volts for 5 seconds.  The yl/wt wire can be cut 2½”-3”from the factory connector. NOTE this is another place where an amp lode test could be performed.   Connect the new correct size wire with either male/female insulated spade connectors, insulated barrel connector or solder/heat shrink to the end coming from the ECM.  Attach the other end of the new wire to relay terminal 86 with an insulated female spade connector.   Consult relay diagram if diode protected. 

Connect another new wire to relay terminal 87 with an insulated female spade connector and the other end of the wire to either the factory connector where the yl/wt wire was cut or to the lift pump itself.    

The picture above shows new insulated spade connectors, the wire on the left is from the ECM to terminal 86 and the wire on the right is from terminal 87 to the lift pump.

The relay grounding wire is attached to relay terminal 85 with an insulated female spade connector and the other end using a ring connector to the body.  The bolt that holds the PDC to the inner fender is a good spot.  Reconnect batteries and test.

When routing wires take care that they are kept away from moving parts, ie: steering column,  have enough length so as not to pull loose and are covered with protective wire cover or wrap.  Use dielectric grease on connections to keep corrosion to a minimum or solder and seal with heat shrink tube.

INSTALLATION ISTRUCTION OPTION B

The relay and fuse can be installed in the PDC giving it the appearance of an OEM part.  Some of the connectors used in the PDC are not available in the general market but can be found in an auto/truck salvage yard.   I went to a ‘pick your part’ type salvage yard and found a 1999 Ram 1500 with V8.  The PDC is basically the same as my 2000 diesel.  You can either buy the whole PDC or remove the terminals with wires attached that will be needed. Leave as much wire as possible; the excess can be trimmed later.    

Disconnect connect the battery, remove the PDC cover and locate where a spare fuse and relay can be added.  Remove the two sheet metal screws (10mm socket) and lift the PDC up.  The PDC housing can now be opened by gently lifting the plastic clips on the sides and prying it apart.  Now the bottom of the top half is exposed. Drill a hole large enough for three wires to pass through in the lower half of the case.  This is where the wires for relay terminals 85, 86 and 87 will exit the PDC.    The additional wire length is added by soldering and heat shrink tubing or insulated barrel connector to the used OEM connectors. These connections will be protected in the lower half of the PDC.  Pass the wires through the hole and place the salvaged connectors into their appropriate relay slots.  The other end of the wires can now be trimmed to length and connected as described in the installation instructions option a above.   Place the 2 halves of the PDC together and remount the PDC to the inner fender while grounding the relay terminal 85 wire with one of the screws, reconnect battery and test.

My truck lift fuel pump amp draw is 6.5 amps so at 135% protection needed is 8.77 amps, next standard size fuse is 10 amps.   Relay size is 3 x 6.5 amps = 19.5 amps so a 20amp rated relay is needed.  I used a micro relay which is half the size of a mini relay because it can handle 20 amps and there were 4 empty positions I could put it in verses 1 position for a mini relay in the PDC.   I put the relay in a spot marked for an O₂ heater.   My truck has a Fuel Boss mechanical fuel pump and I have this electric pump as a backup so I run the engine with the 10amp fuse in the glove box. 

With a fuel pump relay the fuel system can be primed without the ignition key being turned to the on position by jumping relay terminal 30 to 87.  As long as the two terminals are connected the fuel pump will run. 

Written by:

J. Daniel Martin, Martin’s Mobile Maintenance

AKA: IBMobile

3/2/2017

So for those who have pumps that do not have an external/adjustable regulator, your pump more than likely uses a spring and ball to regulate fuel pressure. Springs should be provided from the pump manufacturer to provide adequate pressures. Typically between 16-18psi. The pumps use a hard plastic ball, either a Buna or Viton ball. This will create a seal when the pump is off and keep fuel from "leaking" or "moving" in the lines once the pump is off.

The springs can be inconsistent which can cause erratic fuel pressure readings or lower then expected readings.

Using this diagram of a FASS system, if you remove the hose/fitting that is connected to the "air/vapor return to the tank" you will find a spring a ball, it will look like this.

If your spring comes out looking like this...

You were more then likely experiencing erratic fuel pressures. You could either straighten out the spring and reinstall or replace the spring all together. I only have experience with FASS but I called FASS support and they sent me a replacement. I imagine the same would happen with Airdog.

The next factor in all this are the balls. In my research I've found that FASS uses a Buna ball and Airdog uses a Viton ball. I was having a mixed bag of issues, erratic fuel pressures and also lower then expected fuel pressures. Upon removing the spring and ball I found my spring had twisted (previous pic) and that the ball had indented into the spring.

You can see the indentation here. I tried a couple replacement balls from FASS with the same results. I then went with a Viton ball and the problems haven't returned. The Viton ball is stronger material and seems to be holding up well.

If you're still having lower pressure issues then you can put a washer in to shim the spring and raise pressure. The following measurements should get you in the ball park but make sure you double check you're not adding any additional restriction by using to small of an ID. Here are the measurements:

OD - .631"

ID - .320"

thickness - .039"

***This washer/shim should be added between the fitting and the spring NOT between the spring and ball.***

So what helped fixed my issues was going with a Viton ball and a 17lb spring. This isn't meant to say one company is better then the other, just what I found out in my research and what fixed my problem. The point of this article is to help educate others on potential fixes.

***Additional notes***

List of parts I used

Viton Ball HERE

17lb spring HERE

I understand these are labeled as Airdog parts but they worked fine in my FASS 150.

The Airdog fitting DID NOT work on my FASS pump so if you're looking to replace that on your FASS 150 you would need to contact FASS to get a replacement. Here's the difference

FASS LEFT         AIRDOG RIGHT

Pretty noticeable difference in threads and overall length so if replacing these fittings they must be brand specific.

When you look at a 24V Cummins fuel injector and look at how it's designed and how it functions. The injector pintle is held shut by spring pressure. For stock injector, you need 310 bar (4,500 PSI) to make the injector open and release fuel into the cylinder. Now the bottom limit is 293 bar (4,250 PSI) below this point the automation gets poor and there is more smoke because the fuel can't be heated enough to get vapor to go BANG! As injectors start getting lower pop pressure they do flow more fuel but the droplets start getting larger. This typically creates more black smoke as well as increased fuel flow. Net problem is daily drivers end up suffering from lower MPG's from poor spray pattern or too large of droplets. 

How to detect low pop pressure

Low pop pressure can be detected by engine load and RPM. You'll need a live data tool like an OBDLink LX or similar. Now at idle the engine load typically is in the 5% to 10% range for most injectors to hold an idle at 800 RPM's. It going to dance up and down in engine load at idle this is normal the ECM is constant commanding different values of fuel to hold the RPM as steady as possible. When pop pressure falls too low the idle RPM starts to rise. This is due to the fact it takes less pressure to lift the pintle with low pop pressure so the injection event starts a bit early and ends later. This means there is more duration of time the injector is open which will increased fuel flow at an idle state. The engine will attempt to hold the RPM at 800 RPM but when the engine load gets below about 5% it can no longer defuel anymore. The result is that the idle RPM's rise. If you seeing your hot engine idle RPM in neutral (or park) is rising above 800 RPM and never drops to 800 RPM then your injector pop pressure is most like gone too low.

Why did I write this article?

I see it time and time again where people make the comment of having injectors that are 100k miles and more. Claiming the engine is still running good and no issues. This is not true. Injectors will degrade over mileage. Like my stock OEM injectors worked great even with 150k miles. MPG was little off but ran great. Sent my stock injectors to Diesel Auto Power and had them tested on average they were 260 bar (3,770 PSI) over 30 bar below the minimum requirement. Even though the injectors ran fine they were worn out. Do not assume just because injectors still idle and run fine that there is nothing wrong.

Pop testing

I highly suggest pop testing your injectors every 100k miles I'm going to bet that 90% of them will not make the bottom limit of 293 bar. Most would rather opt for just replacing the injectors with new ones. 

Pop Pressures

Be aware most custom built injectors are popped lower in the 300 to 305 bar range to enhance the flow of fuel. This also means the injector life span will be shortened as its only 7 to 12 bar left before it starts dropping below the minimum 293 bar range. Some members have come forward and alerted me that in a mere 28k miles have lost up to 20 bar as injectors settle and break in. This where you can monitor your engine load and idle RPM and see if the injectors and dropping out too low.

Enhanced Pop pressures (Experimental) 

Some of the members here have made the choice of going up on pop pressures. This will enhance the atomization of the injector and increase MPG for most cases. The downside does reduce the flow rate of the injector being that the pintle lifts open later and drops close early. The flow is shortened but the spray atomization is much improved even for larger injectors. As for how much to increase the pop pressure is not known as of yet. I can say that some members have experimented with higher pop pressures above 330 bar and cold starting in cold climates was nearly impossible or not at all. The upper limit from the Dodge FSM states 327 bar.

Injector Data and Pop Pressures

I welcome other members data to compile a list of injectors, pop pressures, and manufacture data so we can get a better grasp of what works well. 

 7 x 0.010 @ 320 Bar Diesel Auto Power Injectors - So far with winter temperatures down to near zero I've not had any issues with starting. Engine load was about 13% when the injectors were new.

Stock Data logs

stock.csv

Smarty S03 Data Logs

revocompare.xlsx

catcher7.csv

catcher5.csv

catcher3.csv

catcher 9.csv

3revoTMdt3d5.csv

3revoTMdT2D3.csv

sw7t3d2.csv

sw5TM1D1T3.csv

revsw3TMdD2T3same.csv

revosw3tmdt3d5same.csv

Sw1 No Revo

sw1.csv

Sw3 No Revo

sw3.csv

sw31.csv

Sw5 No Revo

sw5.csv

sw51.csv

Sw7 No Revo

sw7.csv

sw71.csv

sw72.csv

Sw9 No Revo

sw9.csv

sw91.csv

sw92.csv

sw93.csv

Quadzilla Data logs

iQuad-2017-02-10-09.34.31-366940459.csv

iQuad-2017-02-10-02.17.51-591043742.csv

iQuad-2017-01-21-01.30.43-1896831070.csv

iQuad-2017-02-01-09.54.42-591043742.csv

3400 full fuel.csv

iQuad-2017-01-12-08.40.40-1617630115.csv

iQuad-2017-01-12-08.42.13932082049.csv

iQuad-2017-05-16-05.51.59-1162892979.csv

iQuad-2017-02-15-10.51.23-591043742.csv

iQuad-2017-02-15-10.57.07-366940459.csv

iQuad-2017-02-13-09.38.11-591043742.csv

iQuad-2017-02-11-01.18.14523615114.csv

iQuad-2017-02-11-11.42.55-366940459.csv

iQuad-2017-02-11-11.14.33-591043742.csv

Quadzilla 7 x .012 data logs

7x01223boostdefuel.csv

lugdowntowing 7x.012.csv

0-60towing7x.012.csv

7 x .012 0-60.csv

WOT1st2nd7x012.csv

datalogs 7 x .012.csv

330bar idle.csv

7x012datalog3.csv Various snap throttle and lug down

7x012datalog1.csv7x012 Various snap throttle and lug down

datalog2.csv Various snap throttle and lug down
luggedodpull7x012.csv  Lugged uphill pull in OD 50-70 mph WOT

Emissions Data Log

emissionsrun.csv

Smarty

Cruise State

Sw3 Offidle

Sw5 Offidle

Sw7 Offidle

Sw9 Offidle

timing Revo Compare

Quadzilla V2 Data Logs

29* max vs 26* max

Quadzilla 7 x .012 data logs

7x012 towing 0-60 mph %50 throttle 

Towing 7 x 012 lugdown test

unloaded 0-60 7 x .012

7x012 23 psi boost defuel testing

Lugged uphill OD pull WOT 7 x .012 50-70mph

Clean Vs extreme tune

Emissions with Quadzilla

Quadzilla Vs Stock for Offidle ME78569 Daily tune

Stock

iQuad-2017-01-13-09.47.281768780995.csv

Side note, if you would rather have a pre built tune to start with you can checkout our tune repository.
https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-quadzilla-v2-custom-tune-repository/

Number of Power Levels

Range of Values: 6 to 15
Default Value: 11

First off let me state there are fixed levels on the Quadzilla Adrenaline that you cannot change. This is levels 0 to 3 which are listed below.

0. Stock - Quadzilla Adrenline is disabled and Stock ECM tune is used.
1. Valet Mode - Explained below.
2. CAN Bus limited to 100% - Quadzilla CAN Bus fuel is used until it reaches your 100% mark, then stops and holds 100% up from there.
3. CAN Bus fuel - Full CAN Bus fuel table is used. 

Level 0 - Allow you to shut down the Quadzilla Adrenaline completely. The ECM is in full control with stock fueling. This level also is used during engine warm up and limits your fuel to your 0 PSI fuel setting. 

Level 2 - This is good for finding your spooling curve. Once you found your starting percentage using Valet Mode you can now build a fuel curve using Level 2 keeping the smoke under control. So for example, if you find that 80% is your 0 PSI position then do +1 percent for the first 5 PSI then step up doing +2 percent which will have you at 9 PSI at 99%. Then you can test this part of your tune by doing several heavy throttle launches and watching your smoke.  Note that Any value over %100 is ignored. OEM duration is max duration on level 2.

Level 3 - Now you can test your full CAN Bus fueling map as an entire tune. This level could be used for people with weak transmissions or clutches to extend its lifespan just a touch longer. Level 3 might also be helpful for winter driving conditions keeping traction better. 

From level 4 on up to 15 are wiretap levels which are divided up in a percentage of cut of power. Like I prefer using 7 levels. This gives you 4 wiretap levels which becomes...

4. 25% wiretap power
5. 50% wiretap power
6. 75% wiretap power
7. 100% wiretap power

So you can divide up 12 times of the wiretap if you wish. 

RPM Limit

Range of Values: 3200 to 3700

Default Value: 3200

This is the governor setting of the Quadzilla Adrenaline. This is the maximum RPM that Quadzilla Adrenaline will fuel too. Without supporting modification I don't suggest higher than normal RPM limits. Stock RPM limit is 3200. 

VALET MODE PARAMETERS

Maximum Valet Mode Power

Range of Values: 0 to 100

Default Value: 50%

Quadzilla Adrenaline Valet mode has a few different purposes which is level 1. It can be used for what the title states which is a cut of power for valet mode to use your vehicle but not allow them to use the full power. Valet mode can be used to find your starting fuel amount without smoke. Then the last thing is using it as a security feature where the truck will start and run but only travel at super slow speeds. 

As for finding your starting fueling you would select level 1 and then set your valet mode amount. Depending on how big your injectors you may be higher or lower than me. I'm using DAP (7 x 0.0085) injectors which has a clean start out at 80%. So you would set your percentage and do several heavy throttle launches watching you smoke amount. Start low and bump up slowly till you see haze then back off slightly. This will be your 0 percent value you will use in your CAN Bus fueling table.

As for security you can set the Valet Mode as low as about 20% and it will start and run but at full throttle, a thief will struggle to build speed beyond 20 to 30 MPH. If you set this too low it can cause it to stall out when you give it throttle. 

As for Valet Mode you want to set enough for a person to drive the vehicle normally in a parking lot or at speed you wish. You'll have to experiment with values to you find what you like. 

PUMP TAP PARAMETERS

Maximum Fuel Stretch

Range of Values: 1200 to 2200

Default Value: 1800

This value is pulse time in microseconds that Quadzilla Adrenaline will give to the wiretap to the fuel solenoid. When the CANBus fuel end this is the amount of time (microseconds) in fuel signal added to the fuel solenoid holding it open.  My suggestion is to start out at the 1200 setting and work your way up till you get your fuel to boost figured out. There is very little reason to even get close to 2200 setting which in most cases will result in excessive black smoke which does mean you are overfueling. 

TPS Pump Maximum

Range of Values: 0 to 100

Default Value: 100

This is the TPS value that Quadzilla Adrenaline wiretap will peak out at. The wiretap will continue at the power level you at that TPS value. Typically this is just left at 100%.

TPS Pump Minimum

Range of Values: 0 to 100

Default Value: 20

This is the TPS value that Quadzilla Adrenaline wiretap will start at. You can specify TPS percentage that will trigger wiretap. If this is set for zero and then the Pump Low Boost Scale PSI is used. If both values are set for non-zero then both conditions must be met before wiretap occurs. Typically I would leave this set for zero. I've tried 30% setting a few times but it makes the wiretap start point rather random being that you have to make both boost pressure and TPS conditions true to make it start. Best to use boost pressure as a trigger and leave this set for zero. 

Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage

Range of Values: 0 to 50

Default Value: 0

This is the minimum amount of Quadzilla Adrenaline wiretap to start out with. Most for daily driving will leave the wiretap set for zero. 

Pump Low Boost Scale PSI

Range of Values: 0 to 25

Default Value: 5

Quadzilla Adrenaline Pump Low Boost Scale PSI is the boost pressure that will start the wiretap. You should set this just high enough so the turbo is just getting spooled off the CAN Bus fuel and then you can kick in the wiretap without much smoke change.

Boost Scaling

Range of Values: 20 to 40

Default Value: 38

Quadzilla Adrenaline Boost Scaling is the point at which the wiretap will hit 100% wiretap. The lower in the boost number the quicker it reaches 100% wiretap. Basically, in a nutshell Pump Low Boost Scale PSI is the starting boost pressure to start the wiretap and Boost Scaling is the point that wiretap will reach 100%.

TIMING PARAMETERS

Max Load Timing Offset

Range of Values: 0 to 3

Default Value: 3

Quadzilla Adrenaline Max Load Timing Offset is used for giving the amount of retard over a range of engine load. For example, if your set for 3 then you would have -3° retard at 0% engine load and at 100% engine load you would have 0° retard.

Example if you have 14, 18, 22, 26 for timing with 2 Max Load Timing Offset. You can see the Timing max values in the 100% column.

The way to check the impact of the Max Load Timing Offset is to get to a cruise speed near 1,500 RPM and then add some grade or add throttle to increase the load to fall out of the Light Throttle Load Limit and just as it does the timing should drop to its lowest point now. Using the table above for an example if the Light Throttle Load Limit is set for 30% that means it should fall to about 12.6°. This gives you an idea that you have to figure +2° to allow for the Max Load Timing Offset the room to retard the amount you've set. 

Checking this setting can be rather difficult for varying road conditions. What you want to look for in your data logs as the timing vs engine load. As engine load rises past the Light Throttle Load Limit (Percent) and drops into the performance range then the timing should drop this set amount look and see what the timing value is and if it's retarding too deeply at this point. 

Low PSI Timing Reduct

Range of Values: 0 to 5

Default Value: 2

Low PSI Timing Reduct is the amount of timing Quadzilla Adrenaline will retard during heavy throttle conditions. This is to aid in quick spool up of the turbo. Value can be altered by the Timing Reduct Scaling below. Both the Low PSI Timing Reduct and Timing Reduct Scaling work during low boost acceleration like below 5 PSI of boost. 

 Timing Reduct Scaling

Range of Values: 0 to 100

Default Value: 100

Time Reduct Scaling is a percent value. For example, if you have 5° of Low PSI Timing Reduct and you have Timing Reduct Scaling set for 50% then you only going to get 2.5° of retard to the timing for 50%- 100% of the TPS. A rather Difficult setting to explain but the Timing Reduct scaling is basically the steepness that affects both the amount of timing and range of the TPS. If you to apply 60% TPS then you will still be left with 2.5* of timing retard. If you set this for 100% then you get 5° of retard increase in a linear fashion until you hit %100 TPS.

These functions are a limit function of Timing reduct, to give a faster pull of timing with limited TPS input.  Once 10 psi is reached there is no longer timing retard given by the Quadzilla Adrenaline.

Light Throttle Timing Adv

Range of Values: 0 to 8

Default Value: 2

Quadzilla Adrenaline adds this number of degrees of timing added on top of the RPM Timing Max. If you have 14, 17, 20, 23 set for timing then have Light Throttle Timing Adv set for 3 then the result would be 17, 20, 23, 26. This is only base numbers. When in light throttle condition Max load timing and timing reduct are not considered.

Light Throttle Load Limit (Percent)

Range of Values: 0 to 40

Default Value: 30

Quadzilla Adrenaline Light Throttle Load Limit is the engine load value that Light Throttle Timing Adv will end. Like my tunes I've been using 30% so from 0 to 30% engine load the Light Throttle Timing Adv is added to the timing value. Once the engine load rises above this set number then Light Throttle Timing is no longer added. You want to set this value to something that allows your normal flat ground cruise to stay within cruise timing. I suggest building this around 65 MPH speeds. Like my truck, I hold right about 25% engine load at 65 MPH on flat ground 30% gives me a bit of wiggle room for the roll of the land. Excessive high settings will hold the advanced timing too long and make it counterproductive if you hit a hill or grade the advanced timing will prevent boost to build easy. You want it to drop this and switch can to a more retarded state to build boost for power. This will now flip back Max Load Timing Offset.

RPM TIMING MAX

RPM Timing Max

Default Values: 15°, 18°, 21°, 23°, 25°
Mopar1973Man Suggested: 14°, 18°, 22°, 26°  ***adding more timing up top will result in more power, but my goals are mpg.

NOTE: The green bands are considered safe ranges for a stock unmodified engine. If you wish to experiment beyond the safe ranges we highly suggest installing the supporting modification like head studs etc before experimenting with high timing values. 

RPM Timing Max this is the maximum amount of performance timing you can reach per RPM band. Used normally this timing structure replaces the ECM completely. You can build a timing curve any way you which and any curvature you want. In my example, I'm running an offset between bands at +4. 13+4=17. So forth. Notice the max timing slider I've set for +3 only which is to match the cruise timing value this prevents cruise timing from being canceled on this limit. 

What to set your timing too? What we are finding out there is such a wide range of variance in peoples tunes. There is no exact formula for timing. The rule of thumb most tend to fallback too is that Light Throttle Timing at 2,000 RPM should be in the 19° to 20° range roughly. If you have a 3 set for Light Throttle Timing Adv and then you now see 17° plus 3° you come out at 20° Light Throttle Timing. Now if the Light Throttle Load Limit is set for 30% then when you exceed that It will drop back to 17° minus the Max Load Timing Offset. As you can see the low engine load end up with a bit extra retard to allow for building boost pressure to carry the load. 

MAX Slider controls the absolute MAX timing advancement you can have. For example, if your Light Throttle Timing Adv is large enough to push the timing above this setting the Light Throttle Timing Adv will be canceled and push back to RPM Timing Max. You will basically lose you cruise timing at this point and be forced back to performance timing.

QUADZILLA SECRET: If you set all TIMING PARAMETERS to ZERO then on the RPM Timing Max slide up what you want to add to the stock ECM timing you can now run ECM timing plus a value compared to the fully replaced timing that Quadzilla normally does. Timing add limit is 5* in this mode.

Bucking and backfire are typically signs of excessive advanced timing. Then if you are too far retarded you'll see more of bluish grey haze and cutting out.

Timing Steepness

Some idea on timing. Consider the span between bands as how steep the timing is. Like for example of 15°,18°, 21°, 24° this is +3 between bands. Now, look at +4 between bands 15°, 19°, 23°, 27°. As you can see timing is much steeper curve. Amount of step between bands is going to affect the steepness of the timing curve.

Fixed Point Timing

Another one that is common people want to call out a 2,000 RPM timing point. You can do this. Let's say you wanted to have 19° at 2,000 RPM now figure up and down from that point using the amount of step between bands. This is kind of common when you building tunes for daily driving because the 1,500 and 2,000 RPM bands are you common RPM span of a daily driver. 

Anchored Ended Timing

What I mean here is you can start from a low end or high end as an anchored point then build from that point. For example, you have 13°, 17°, 21°, 25° (+4 step) you can anchor the high end and then suck the low end up given advancement. 14.5°, 18°, 21.5°, 25° so I built this backward starting from the fixpoint of 25 and minus 3.5 downward. This is handy if you know your max timing limit you can build downward. 

Bit Shift Timing

This is a way of advancing or retarding the entire table in on adjustment. For example, you have 13°, 17°, 21°, 25° for current timing you could plus +1° to all bands and then end up with 14°, 18°, 22°, 26° for timing. Be aware changing timing like this affects the cruise timing as well. If you shift towards advancement then cruise timing will too, and the same said about retarding in this method.

Timing Limits (What is too far?)

It's rather difficult to specify an exact number of degrees as a limit for each truck. There are variables like injector pop pressure, injection pump accuracy, cetane of the fuel, coolant and air temperature that play a role in the amount of timing each truck will require. I can give clues on what to look for. Bucking or Backfiring is a sign of too far advanced in timing. Pay attention to the RPM realm that the bucking occurs and then try dropping that band 1° worth of timing or bit shift the RPM Timing Max table retard 1° degree and see if that helps. If you retard too deeply typically you notice the engine seems very quiet and tends to produce more white/bluish smoke. Builds boost rather well but launch power seems a bit slow to build though. Most applications the green bands on the RPM Timing Max table are very safe realms to work in.

Retarding timing will allow for building boost pressure by pushing some of the expanding gases through the turbo. Advancing timing puts the majority of the energy to the piston as long as it's not too advanced which in turn can produce "negative torque" where the piston is being slowed down by the expanding gases but then breaks over the TDC and the gain power again. This is non-productive in negative torque state.

It is important to remember that nearly all box tuners for 2nd gens max out timing at high boost and ~2500+ rpm.  Max theoretical timing is 32° degrees of timing.

Fuel Cetane

Things to stay aware of setting timing. ECM and VP44 cannot detect cetane level. As cetane goes up the ignition quality of the fuel is better and faster so less timing is required typically for winter fuels with high cetane. Same can be said true about summer fuel added timing advancement will be required because of lower cetane typically in the summer. Keep in mind cetane is backward to octane. More information on cetane rating here. Cetane tends to carry more weight in tuning than IAT temperature so consider your "Winter Time Fuel" first before considering IAT temperatures. 

IAT Temperatures

As the air gets colder it takes longer for the fuel to go from the atomized mist, to vapor to ignition (BANG!). Stock ECM can step up over 4° advancement as IAT falls below +80°F IAT. Since diesel engines and diesel fuel ignite based on heat in the cylinder things like coolant temperature, IAT temperature and cetane all have to be considered when building your timing tables. Stock head on the Cummins ISB has the IAT sensor within a few inches of the coolant jacket in the head. If you watch both fuel temperature and IAT you will find that both follow closely together in temperature as long as the stock fuel filter can and fuel heater still active. This is why if you monitor the cold start run of the ECM (level 0) you see extremely high timing like 21° at road speed. This was to aid in cold fuel and cold air running. 

BOOST LEVEL FUELING - CAN BUS

Boost Level Fueling - CAN Bus

NOTE: The green band is considered safe normal ranges.

QUADZILLA SECRET: If you set 100% in all positions you would have ECM stock fuel table. All values are ECM fuel value times the percentage given. Like 0PSI value is 85% so if I command WOT the most I could get is 85%. ECM (100% fuel) x Quadzilla (85% Limit) = 85% This makes it possible to have below stock fuel rates for large injectors and control fuel to boost pressure and keeping smoke under control.

This is your CAN Bus fueling table. I will suggest when your building your tune to work with Level 3 to omit the wiretap temporarily. 

Finding a starting point. I mention it a bit back with the Valet Mode level 1 you can set level 1 and vary the Valet Mode power up and down till your heavy throttle launch is clean or just a light haze. To build the curve to 100% now you would use level 2. Now you can build the fuel curve from your starting point you found with Valet Mode level 1 to your 100%. Most of us use a +1% as seen above but I only did it to 4 PSI. Then jumped to +2. Once you are happy with your fuel to 100% now you can jump up to level 3 and now build from the 100% mark on up to 150% fuel if you wish. You don't have to use the full 150%. There is no absolute formula for calculating fueling tables. There is way too many variables like injector size, pop pressures, turbo size, timing setting etc. In a nutshell, the best suggestion to build off your smoke and keeping it down to mere haze. 

Towing suggestion. I typically build the CAN Bus only to hold towing if need be. Like towing my 8,000 pound RV I can set Level 3 and never reach 1,200°F towing on a 7% grade. What you want to do is build you fuel table based on EGT's not HP/TQ. This way you can tow without huge worries of EGT temperature issues. Again you are not required to use all 150% of the fuel table. 

When starting to add wiretap into your tunes you should always remember that your canbus fueling should make up the meat of your "off the line power" and wiretap should be used for "wrapping it out"   Canbus fueling can offer more than enough duration to smoke out the world.  If you feel you need more power than the canbus fueling can offer alone then it is time to consider an injector upgrade.

NOTE: Your 0 PSI slider value will be the maximum fuel you get during warm up phase till you reach Warmup Mode Setting coolant temperature. 

How to get the most from your tune for a daily driver?

I highly suggest you look into an app for your cell phone or mobile device to track your MPG closely. 

https://www.simplyauto.app/

This little app is very handy for keeping track of your MPG and fuel logs. This way you can make informed choices on your tunning for your truck. Wonderful app it tracks even your repairs and fuel logs for you reminding you of maintenance that needs to be done on your vehicle. 

I've personally seen a lot of confusion in regards to proper setting of this value. The first thing is to find a piece of highway that is quiet with little traffic and with a speed limit of 65 MPH. Now find a piece of that highway that is flat as possible you can double check this with a GPS. Now that you have your test bed for at least a good mile. Make sure you mark your start and end of the highway so your testing is accurate. Now you want to reach highway speed of 65 MPH before you reach your test highway. Now set your cruise control to 65 MPH. As you cross over your test highway at your cruise speed take notice of the engine load percentage. Be aware that changes in timing setting will impact this setting. If your getting closer to your correct timing you'll notice your cruise load will continue to go down. If you are going too far retarded or advanced in timing you'll see the engine load rise you know that you are going the wrong direction. Proper setting of this value you should notice the vehicle reach a small grade or hill and the engine load will rise over your threshold and timing should fall and the boost should build rapidly. What is the correct number load percentage each vehicle and fuel system is different like my truck with +75HP (VCO 7 x 0.0085) injectors my 65 MPH cruise load is right about 23% I've got my load limit set for 25%. Stock injectors might have a much longer duration than my +75HP so your percentage will be higher. This why you need to do the highway measurement find your load limit percentage. As for testing speed I suggest anything between 55 and 65 MPH no higher or lower. Do not attempt to get get the Quadzilla to hold cruise timing beyond 70 MPH after this point it should flip-flop in and out and may just stay out of cruise timing. Like my truck even with my low drag I can reach cruise timing at 80 MPH but I can't hold it for long.

Optimal Coolant Temperature - 190℉ 

Factory thermostats set to either 190℉ or 192℉ are fine and will perform satisfactorily for most Quadzilla Adrenaline owners. For the people up north, it's possible to see coolant temperatures drop out below 180℉ because of the natural efficiency of the 24V and at idle the Cummins ISB tends to run cooler. When coolant temperatures start dropping the thermodynamics of the engine will shed more of the heat of the burning fuel back into the excessively cold coolant jacket.

Experimental 200℉ thermostat

I've been running a 2012 6.7L 200℉ thermostat for the winter of 2023. I'm using a Gates thermostat and the operational range of the thermostat is from 199℉ to 210℉ roughly. This brought up the block and cylinder head temperature and I'm finding the engine load is reduced about 4% at 65 MPH. For the winter time, I was seeing -7℉ for the 2023 winter and with the added temperature I was able to gain MPG's still in the colder air. 

NOTE: Warmer coolant temperatures will affect, Intake Air Temperatures, Fuel Temperatures, 

Engine Oil Temperature 

If your timing is correct you should have an Engine Oil temperature of about 30℉ to 35℉ lower than coolant. A stock 190℉ thermostat will have engine oil temperatures of 160℉ to 170℉ with correct timing. As for the Experiemential 200℉ thermostat, you will see 170℉ to 180℉ for engine oil temperatures with correct ignition timing. If the engine oil temperature rises to coolant temperature or beyond then your timing values are wrong and could be either too retarded in timing or too advanced in timing.

Engine Oil Temperature and Timing

You can use the transmission sensor of the Quadzilla into the extra port on the top of the oil filter housing. Do not use any sealants or tapes the brass body needs to have a clean ground connection to be accurate.

Retarded Timing

Too retarded the generation of the fuel burn will occur too late and add heat to the coolant jacket at the cylinder level and this added heat will reduce the performance of the oil cooler.

Advanced Timing

Too Advanced you'll notice the engine oil temperature will rise because most Quadzilla Adrenaline owners create negative torque tunes with excessive timing which will transfer heat energy to the cylinder jacket. Again this affects the performance of the oil cooler to exchange hot oil into an already warmer coolant jacket at the cylinder level. 

Intake Air Temperatures (IAT)

The Optimal intake Air Temperature (IAT) is 80℉ to 140℉ for Efficiency

Don't get me started with "Cold Air Intakes" and "Cold Air is Denser". I'm learning that for efficiency reasons you need to have warm air to aid in efficiency more so in the dead of winter. We are not running wide open throttle we are trying to reduce the amount of fuel being burnt and boost pressures at cruise state. This knowledge comes from my High Idle Switch and the MPG mode. Bringing the actual intake temperature up will aid in converting the fuel mist to a fuel vapor and ignition fairly rapidly. The colder the intake air temperatures the longer time is required to convert liquid fuel to vapor stage for ignition also part of the fuel will not completely vaporize and never really burn under light loads. Hence we add some warmth back to the intake air temperatures and fuel vaporizes better and ignition occurs with less advancement and less wasted fuel. I've noticed with the 200℉ thermostat the Intake Air Temperature will be higher which has helped keep Intake Air Temperatures above 80℉ through most of the winter.

Fuel Temperature (Quadzilla Adrenaline Only)

The Optimal Fuel Temperature (Quadzilla Adrenaline Only) is 80℉ to 140℉ for Efficiency

Flash Point of Diesel Fuel - 125℉ to 180℉ depending on other factors of distilling and additives used.

Excessively cold fuel takes more time to change from a liquid state to a vapor state. Then excessively high fuel temperatures tend to create asphaltenes which is the black material you'll find in the stock fuel filter or possibly aftermarket filters. High fuel temperatures will put stress on your PSG unit on top of the Bosch VP44 injection pump. My stated fuel temperature range you find mirrors the Intake Air Temperature. This is because both the fuel temperature and Intake Air Temperature will match more times than not as long as the factory fuel filter housing is still in place and you   The other part of the trick is NOT to have your fuel pickup tube in the fuel sender basket, this happens to be the hottest fuel being returned from the back of the head which can be hot enough to create the asphaltenes. Using a draw straw in the main fuel tank will have cooler fuel temperatures which can reduce the creation of asphaltenes and extend your fuel filter life to 60,000 miles to 80,000 miles with no problem. Cooler fuel of course is better for the PSG unit on top of the Bosch VP44 injection pump.

NOTE: Transmission Temperature is Engine Oil Temperature.

Hope This helped you guys out

Nick

 

Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 

 

1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

 

2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

 

 

 

Tuners:

Adrenaline standard
The Quadzilla Adrenaline tuner, or Quad ADR, is a wiretap fueling , canbus fueling, and timing box for your 24v Cummins power turbo diesel in a Dodge ram application.. It is very customizable which makes it easy to tune for your specific needs. The Quadzilla Adrenaline or ADR will fuel to ~3500 RPM depending on the truck and the health of the Bosch VP44 injection pump for your Cummins power Truck.  

 

Custom Tunes can be found in this article covering both the old Quadzilla tuning and the New Quadzilla V2 Tuning. along with information in regards to how to tune. 

 

Base Tunes for Adrenaline and ZXT:

The base tunes provided by Quadzilla can be found HERE A huge thanks to Jigabop for hosting and various members for sharing their saved files.

Model numbers:
ADR1000 98.5-00 model truck
ADR1001 2001 model truck
ADR1002 2002 model truck
 
The Model number will be on the side of unit as seen above. The top tuner is a standard ADR for a 2002 model truck and the bottom is a 4k tuner for a 2001


Adrenaline 4k
ADR4k00 98.5-00 Model truck
ADR4k01 2001 Model truck
ADR4k02 2002 Model truck

The ADR 4k boxes allow the Revlimiter to be raised to ~4000 RPM. Think of this as a soft limit, not every truck will fuel to 4000 RPM as the VP44 has trouble at higher RPMS. Every truck will act different. The ADR 4k tuners are very well known for not being street friendly. 

Again I am pretty sure that the only physical difference in the 4k tuner between the model years is the jumper inside. The wiring harness pigtails for the MAP and Canbus should be the only difference.

Adrenaline 4k VS Standard Adrenaline

This Thread covers the actual physical differences between the 4k box and the standard ADR. Please read the entire thread if you have any questions in regards to upgrading a Standard ADR to a 4K ADR. There is a lot of good information in that thread that I am not going to move over to this thread at this point.
***Please note that it is not possible to turn a standard ADR tuner into a 4k tuner without changing the internal parts. To my knowledge no one has tried yet. 
***Don't load the 4k tune from the tune library on a ADR1000,ADR1001, or ADR1002 model


Boost Values reading Incorrectly
If your boost values are not reading correct you may have to remove or insert a jumper within the box. The only real difference I am aware of between the actual physical standard ADR tuner between the model years is the jumper within *Not the 4k vs standard ADR differences*. If the jumper is installed the MAP values will read correctly for the 01-02 years but not right for the 98.5-00 years. Taking the jumper off from within will make the 98.5-00 MAP values read correctly, but not 01-02. You can see the jumper circled in the picture below. 


 
No Jumper installed 98.5-00
Jumper Installed: 01-02 years

** Sometime in Older adr boxes the jumper must be installed for 98.5-00 and not installed for 01-02

I have personally run a 01 unit on my 2000 without issues just by changing the internal jumper. Truck ran fine, tunes loaded fine.

The difference really comes with the wiring harness pigtails that shipped with the unit as explained below.

Harness


 

The Different model year ADR tuners use the same box, BUT a different harness pigtails for the different years. 
Connectors

Main harness Connector 
 

The main Harness Connector is a Delphi Connector. Information on it including part numbers for specfic parts can be found HERE Personally I order random parts like this from Mouser.

MAP
The ADR 1000 Uses a different MAP plug than the 01-02 style. I believe there is an adapter to convert from 00 style to 01-02 style, but it is very hard to come by. The 01 and 02 don't share the same MAP sensor pin layout but they use the same plug. There is a converter to use a 01 MAP to a 02 which I am pretty sure was included with the sale of ADR1001 and ADR1002 Tuners. This converter isn't as hard to find. You should be able to find this adapter from EDGE. The plugs are the same regardless of the of maker of the tuners.

MAP sensor connector for the 98.5-00 Model Year 3 pin round It's hard to see but it is too cold and too windy for me to want to mess with it now. It will look very similar to the Fuel pressure connector, but the MAP will have a pigtail on it and the Fuel pressure will not. 

I believe the female MAP connector for the 98.5-00 years is a Delphi PN: 12065287
12065287 Delphi Connection Systems | Mouser
I believe the male MAP connector for the 98.5-00 years is a Delphi PN: 410027
http://www.casperselectronics.com/st...oducts_id=1524

MAP for the 01 3 pin flat
 http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab360/me78569/Quadzilla/IMG_0535_zps240f198c.jpg

MAP for a 02 uses a 3 pin flat, but has a different pinout than the 01. 




02 map sensors use the same plug with a different pin out on the non-ground wires. Some trucks have been moved to 01 map sensors so check to see what map you have.

Making your Own Map converter for the Quadzilla

 


You will want to buy the right MAP sensor connectors listed above for your year truck.
 

The wiring for the MAP converter is a little odd. This is due to the box doing boost fooling
Dark Green, or the wire C coming from goes to the ECM side of the pigtail
Green, or wire B goes to the MAP sensor side of the pigtail
Red, or wire A goes to both the ECM side of the pigtail and the MAP sensor side of the pigtail, just splice them together as shown.

Here is the wiring for the MAP sensor side of the pigtail, Notice the clip on the top of the plug.

Here is the connector for the ECM side of the pigtail, notice the black and red on the top and green on the bottom.

The Ground is shared between the female and male section

Canbus / Datalink

The Canbus/ Datalink also uses a different plug depending on the year, which there is an adapter for, I believe every ADR sold came with a Canbus adapter. Again this adapter should be sold by multiple companies as the plugs are the same regardless of the maker of the tuner. If you make your own just match the wiring as shown in the picture. Each plug is labeled A, B, and C

The flat 3 pin canbus/data plug is a Delphi plug. 
Male connector assembly is PN: 12010717
Female connector assembly is PN: 12065287
the triangle data link is a DT04-3P.

You can make your own or look for on Ebay or Craigslist. They can typically be found for $25-$35

Fuel pressure

the Fuel pressure connector looks like this

 

very similar to the MAP but it is a single connector on the lead wires. Color for the wires are Red, Yellow, and black

I believe The FP uses a Delphi Connector also. PN: 12065287 12065287 Delphi Connection Systems | Mouser


To summarize the above information, The wiring harness connector pigtails are specific between the ADR1000 and ADR1001/2 tuners for the MAP sensor. If you have a 1999 year truck, but a ADR1002 tuner you can run it just by using a ADR1000 harness and changing the jumper setting within. The wiring harness Pigtails are what you need to match to you year truck. There are adapters out there, but it is easier to find the right harness. You can also splice the harness and use the OEM connector found at a multitude of online vendors. 


Updating your Tune:

**DO NOT CONNECT THE MODULE TO THE COMPUTER UNTIL INSTRUCTED TO DO SO**

Windows 7 8 10

 

 

 

 

Windows Vista & Windows XP

This software has been designed to work with Windows XP and MOST Vista machines, and does not work on Macintosh.  If you have a Vista computer and the update does not work, an error log called “QZError.log” will be automatically saved 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Begin the download process by clicking the “download” button associated with the tuning file you would like to use from the Quadzilla update web page.

 

 

 

 

 

Windows will ask you if you want to “run” or “save” the file. 

 

 

 

 

 

If you would like to keep the tuning file on your computer for future use choose “save”  otherwise click “run”.  If you choose to save the file, you will have to specify where you would like to save the file on your computer.  You can save it anywhere you like, although saving to the “desktop” allows for easy access.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

After the download is complete, Windows will ask if you would like to “run” the file.  Select “run” to open the X2 flash software.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

If this is not your first time to use the X2 Public Flasher, then you will not see the “Setup Wizard” load when the utility is started.  Please skip to page 9.

 

 

 

 

 

If this is your first time to use the X2 Public Flasher utility, please follow the proceeding steps:

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

1. Begin by clicking “run” after the download is complete.  This will start

 

 

the utility.                                   

 

 

 

 

 

    

You should see the “Setup Wizard” if this is your first time to run this program.

 

 

This window will guide you through setting up the device drivers for your module.

 

 

Once the “Setup Wizard” completes, you will not see it on subsequent uses of the X2 Public Flasher.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Click “Next” to allow the file copying process to begin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3.  Once all files are copied to your computer, you will be prompted to complete the steps necessary for the Hardware Wizard to begin.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

4.After you have read the displayed instructions on this step, click “Next” to continue.  When you see the following screen, you will need to connect the module to the computer and click “Next” so that the “Hardware Wizard” may begin.

 

 

5. When you see the “Welcome to the Found New Hardware Wizard”, select “No,not this time” or “Install the software automatically (recommended)”,and click “Next”.  Please be patient as the “Found New Hardware Wizard” may take several minutes before reaching the next screen, depending on the speed of your computer.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

**If you do not see the “Found New Hardware Wizard” within a couple of minutes,

 

 

disconnect the module from the computer, wait one second, then reconnect it to the computer.**

 

 

 

 

 

6.  Once you have reached the below screen, select “Install the software

 

 

automatically (Recommended)” and click “Next”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

7. Select the driver with a “Location” ending with “qz.inf” and click “Next”.

 

 

 

 

 

**Not all computer systems will display this message, if you do not see this screen simply go to the next step**

 

 

8.You will then see the following “Hardware Installation” screen, simply choose

 

 

“Continue Anyway”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

9. The “Found New Hardware Wizard” will then continue installing the necessary files to your computer.

 

 

 

 

 

If at some point around this step you get an error message that reads, “Files needed.  The file usbser.sys on windows drive cabinet is needed” GO TO STEP 14 OF THESE INSTRUCTIONS TO READ ABOUT HOW TO PROCEED.

 

 

 

 

 

10. When you see the following “Cannot Start this Hardware” message click “Finish” and disconnect the module from the computer.

 

 

 

 

 

11. Once the “Hardware Wizard” completes, click “Next” to proceed with the setup.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

12. It is now time to disconnect the module from the computer.

 

 

 

 

 

Once you have disconnected the module from the computer, click “Next”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

13. The following screen indicates the “Setup Wizard” has completed its tasks

 

 

 

 

 

You may now click “Finish” to launch the “X2 Public Flasher”.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

14. (This step only applies if a “files needed” error was encountered)

 

 

 

 

 

A. Look at the error window that popped up saying that there are “files needed”.  There should be a button that reads “BROWSE”  click it. 

 

 

 

 

 

B. Another window will pop up that will allow you to manually select the file.  At the top of this window there should be a pull down menu, click the small arrow symbol pointing down, and choose the folder labeled “WINDOWS” . 

 

 

 

 

 

C.  In the “WINDOWS” folder scroll down until you see another folder that reads “system 32” and open it.

 

 

 

 

 

D. Within the “system32” folder there should be another folder labeled “drivers” , open it.

 

 

 

 

 

E. In the “drivers” folder there should be the file labeled “usbser.sys” , click on this file and click OK, the next to finish the hardware installation wizard.

 

 

 

 

 

F.  Revert to back to step 10 to finish the installation wizard.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Loading a Tuning File to your Xzillaraider2, XZT+, M3, or Adrenaline Module

 

 

 

 

 

Before beginning, make sure you have the Microsoft .NET Framework installed on your computer. It may be freely downloaded from:

 

 

 

 

 

http://www.microsoft.com/downloads/details.aspx?FamilyID=0856EACB-4362-4B0D-8EDD-AAB15C5E04F5&displaylang=en

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

Updating your module is accomplished by following three easy steps:

 

 

 

 

 

1. Start the X2 Public Flasher. Example: 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

2. Click “Update Module” and connect your module to the computer within ten seconds.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

3. You can click “Get Information from Module” after programming to verify the tuning file has successfully been installed.  Check the feature code and make sure it corresponds to the file that you desired to use.

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

 

At this point you are ready to reinstall the module on your truck and enjoy your new tunes!

 

 

 

 

 

Xzt
http://i879.photobucket.com/albums/ab360/me78569/Quadzilla/XZT-plus_zpsa7a1d9ed.jpg

The Xzt is a canbus and timing box. It connects to the Canbus for fueling and the MAP sensor for boost fooling and fueling based upon boost. It does the same hp as other Canbus tuners or ~65hp and ~125ft/lb along with a timing increase. HP numbers are pretty relative. It should be very similar to the Edge EZ

I am not an expert on the XZT but I am pretty sure you need the correct XZT for your year truck/MAP sensor type. Again 98.5-00 uses the 3 pin round plug, 01 uses a 3 pin flat connector and 2002 uses a 3 pin flat connector with a different pin layout.

Tunes for the XZT can be found on Jigabops hosted site found in numerous places in this post.

Screens:

PV2
 

If you want to update your PV2 please ensure that you are running the update from a Windows XP machine. If you run the update file from a windows 7 machine it will make your PV2 useless. The update can be found on Jigabops tune download site within the complete tune zip.

Making your own PV2 Cable
Big thanks to Cumminsdog and Tdoorn28 for posting pictures and PN for the needed parts. 

The 12 pin molex connector on the screen side of the wiring harness THIS is the male part! Again the picture is wrong but everything else should be right.
43020-1201 - MOLEX - PLUG & SOCKET CONNECTOR, PLUG, 12POS, 3MM | Newark element14 US [URL=http://s879.photobucket.com/user/me78569/media/Quadzilla/1510561_618106761586980_1710185498_n_zpsec810060.j pg.html]
 

Here is the wiring pinout for the cable
 

 


The 4 pin connector on the ADR harness side is a Duestch connector. It can be found HERE
PN DT06-4S
Ensure the wire orientation match that in this picture for the plug.

PV1
 


PV1 Doesn't change power levels

If your PV1 won't change power levels or accept custom tuning you likely need to run the PV1 upgrade program hosted on Jigabops Quadzilla site. It is VERY important to run the upgrade from a single core Windows XP 32bit machine. I ran the upgrade 10+ times from a single core 32bit windows 7 machine and always ended up with a PV1 that wouldn't change power levels. Once I ran it from a Windows XP machine it started working again.

Flashing PV1 and PV2 screens from a Windows 7 Machine ***May or May Not Work***

The following steps allow you to upgrade/flash the PV1/2 using a Windows 7 machine provided it support Windows XP mode
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/w...e-in-windows-7

I will help as much as I can with this part, but you will have to research installing this on your own. It is possible as I have done it on my personal 64 bit windows 7 machine for one VP! screen, but for another it did not work. I would recommend using a XP machine EVERYTIME, but if you cannot for one reason or another xp mode may work 

You must have windows 7 professional, Enterprise, or Ultimate. Your computer must also support CPU virtualization.

You will need to download and install

Windows Virtual PC
http://www.microsoft.com/en-us/downl...s.aspx?id=3702
And XP mode
http://windows.microsoft.com/en-us/w...e-in-windows-7

Once those are both downloaded you simply start the virtual windows xp then download and install Windows Framework 3.5 ( again I will try to help but installing Framework is your responsibility). Finally run the commander app with the PV1/2 plugged in, disregard when it says to unplug. Since it is a virtual environment the plugging in of the pulse is handled by forwarding that USB through the main machine, which you enable in the next step.

Install the quadzilla drivers from the installer. once the drivers have been installed and the update program prompts you to plug in the PV1/2 then you enable the usb device, by clicking USB on the top menu bar and selecing the Pulse pv1/2. 
 

The pulse will show up and the windows pop up to install drivers will come up, This might take up to a minute for the usb to be patches through to the XP mode. Select install drivers automatically then click next. Click OK when the warning appears. When it finishes the install process you can click update now within the Quadzilla flasher program.

Once the Quadzilla finishes updating your power up and down buttons should work again. 

Making your own PV1 Cable

The cable for the PV1 is very similar to the PV2, but the screen side is actually soldiered to the board instead of a nice Molex connector. 
 


White: PAD 20
Black: PAD 21
Green: PAD 9
Red: PAD 12

These numbers were taken from my Commander screen which I am pretty sure is the same as a pv1 board. Take note of the spacing on the board if you do this yourself. Verify that my numbers match yours. 

The ADR side of the cable is a Duestch connector. It can be found HERE
PN DT06-4S Ensure the wire orientation match that in this picture for the plug.
 


Fixing your PV1 buttons

The buttons on the PV1 are known for not working well. They can stick, not read etc. Here is a good write-up on how to install buttons for cheap. Very easy to do, works much better than the standard setup.
Pulse Monitor Modification (no more bad buttons!)
Big thanks to dknaks for this write-up

Specs are pretty basic, 5mmx5mm should work. You want to make sure the switch is momentary.

Iquad bluetooth
 

 
All iquad bluetooth modules share the same PN so it is fair to assume that the bluetooth module can be from any year. 

The Iquad for Bluetooth is for Android only. 



Converting PV Screens from other model years

PV2

From a purely speculation shot in the dark I will say that it MIGHT be possible to flash a different model year PV2 to work with the 2nd gen adr1000/1001/1002 boxes. From what I have seen with the PV1 screens I don't think Quad built the units with differences in the screens between the years. No one has tried that I am aware of using a PV2. I am more than willing to try if someone would provide me with a PV2. 

****Again this is at your own risk****

PV1

See the below in regards to converting a Scout PV1 screen in the a working 2nd gen PV1. I am more than willing to try with other PV1's but again it is at your own risk.

Converting a Commander/Scout screen into working with ADR

To the best of my knowledge on the subject, the commander screen and scout screens are both early PV1 screens. I personally have a Scout screen that a friend had for his 2003 dodge SMS1002. Inside the board states it is a commander v1.3, but when you plug it into the computer the driver that is shown is for a PV1.
 

 

However the tuner side of the cable is a 10 pin molex. 
 

 

Using an XP machine I have loaded the PV1 update found on Jigabops hosted site. The Commander screen took the update fine and now has power levels and custom tuning as a setting. 

***Very important to note that you need an XP machine to run the PV1 or PV2 update that is hosted by Jigabop. If you run the update on a windows 7 machine or vista (I think) you will very likely ruin your PV screen. Seeing as we don't have the original firmware for them I don't know if we can fix it. You may be able to rerun the update from an XP and fix the issue, but I am not sure.

I was able to soldier the correct wires into place on the board of my old commander screen to match the wiring from other PV1 screens
 

 
Here it is working with the PV1 ADR software 

 




Sensors

EGT Probe

The Probe looks like this

 
The connector on the harness looks like this.  

 
Also
any K type thermocoupler will work with the Quadzilla. Cumminsdog was using an Isspro thermocoupler for ever with his. Again, any brand K-Type will work. 

DAP also sells one. Link is HERE

Something like THIS


Fuel Pressure Sender

  
Isspro pressure sensors are supposed to work with the quadzilla. People have said they have in the past (actually tried it) and DAP told cumminsdog they were Isspro sensors. 

DAP site link to the Fuel pressure sender HERE 


The Issopro FP sender is PN: R89141, but I suggest contacting Jkidd at DAP first since they have verified that the part they sell works with the Quadzilla. 


Transmission Temp Sender

The Quadzilla tranny temp sender is a Datcon 02022-00 Temp sensor. You can fine one HERE
Other temp sensors may work, but I would stick with the part above as it matches the PN# on the Quadzilla Sender.

 
So you jumped your truck without unplugging the ADR tuner?

It is very important that you UNPLUG your Quadzilla tuner before jumping you truck. I can almost promise you that if you jump your truck without removing your Quadzilla tuner it will ruin your tuner. Typically after this happens the inside of your Quadzilla tuner will look like this.  

 



The big White thingy ( technical term for resistor) is a 1 OHM 10w Resistor with a %5 tolerance made by xicon PN: 280-CR10-1.0-rc. You can replace it and other burnt parts to try and fix the issue, or Ask/bribe ED to try and fix it for you.

Mouser has them 280-CR10-1.0-RC Xicon | Mouser

The Mosfet has a PN of IRF5210SPBF

The thread having to do with Quadzilla stuff is HERE

Adrenaline_Instructions.pdf

Updating Instructions.doc

Windows 7 Update.doc

Windows Vista Unhandled Exception Error.doc

If you find this helpful throw a donation my way. %95 of the things I do in regards to Quadzilla are to support the community and I receive no payment for the work. 

Thanks

- Me78569

1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

Section 1: Custom Tuning V1

The v1 of custom tuning allowed for these changes to be made to the base tunes.  I have split the custom tuning into sections to better explain the effect each has on how the truck drives and how much power is put down from electrical fueling.

*************************************************************************************************************************************************

Max Power Levels

Power Levels :  lvl 0 stock | lvl 1 timing | lvl 2 Canbus fuelings (65 hp) | lvl 3 + Wiretap fueling (+120 HP in addition to the 65 hp from CANbus)   You can set the minimize power levels to 5 or max to 14.  

This will give you more or less wiretap levels,  Note that no additional power is made by setting max levels higher.    Rather setting Max Power Levels higher give you more "steps" of wiretap fueling until the max is reached.  

IE: total power lvls = 5 gives you 2 wiretap levels (Remember to always could lvl 0 in your total lvls), so lvl 3 will give you %50 of wiretap stretch and lvl 4 will give you %100 of wiretap stretch whereas setting your max lvls to 14 will give you 12 steps of wiretap fueling lvl 3 would be 1/12th of wiretap stretch lvl 9 would be 7/12th of wiretap stretch and lvl 14 would be 12/12th of wiretap stretch

*************************************************************************************************************************************************

Wiretap Fueling: By tapping the fueling solenoid wire on the VP44 you can watch for a fueling trigger from the PSG and extend based upon how much fuel is required by the Quadzilla.

Max Pump Stretch:  sets the upper limit for Wiretap Fueling time.  Typically 2200 is the max on the aggressive tunes.  This is what allows for the calculation of how much pump fueling to use.  Remember that you are setting the max amount of fueling.  This fueling time is altered by many different inputs such as, but not limited to, boost, rpm, APPS, etc  on v1 base tunes lvls 3 - max divide the max stretch by the span IE: if you have 10 levels total 4-10 are wiretap so you have 7 lvls of wiretap on lvl 4 you get 1/7th of additional wiretap fueling, lvl 5 you get 2/7th and so forth. 

Setting Max Pump Stretch higher may reduce total power while increasing Torque under the curve.  If you want upper-end power you would not want to set this to the max.   If you want low-end torque you would set this higher.   Typically people find that 1600-2000 is the happy spot depending on your injector size and driving style.  Smoke output will be increased by setting Stretch higher.

*************************************************************************************************************************************************

TPS scaling functions:  By watching TPS / APPS input from the driver the Quadzilla can adjust the fueling curves for both Canbus and Wiretap fueling.  This is helpful to tune the Quadzilla to your driving style and can help cut down on low end smoke.  

TPS Pump Max:  This allows for you to set the upper limit for TPS input for wiretap fueling.  Wiretap fueling does not stop at this point, rather it peaks at this point.    Using the max and min settings you can move the wiretap fueling area around within the 0-100% TPS range.

TPS Pump Min: This allows for you to set the lower limit for TPS input for wiretap fueling.  Wiretap fueling will not start until this point is reached.   Using the max and min settings you can move the wiretap fueling area around within the 0-100% TPS range.

TPS Can Max: This allows for you to set the upper limit for TPS input for Canbus fueling.  Canbus fueling does not stop at this point, rather it peaks at this point.    Using the max and min settings you can move the Canbus fueling area around within the 0-100% TPS range.

TPS Can Min: This allows for you to set the lower limit for TPS input for Canbus fueling.  Canbus fueling will not start until this point is reached.    Using the max and min settings you can move the Canbus fueling area around within the 0-100% TPS range.

Effectively by settings the max and min you are compressing %100 of the fueling between the max's and Mins.  

IE: maxs at 75 and min's at 25, or cutting the tps range to %50.   You will effective double the fueling ramp up once %25 tps is reach until %75 TPS is reached.  At %75 TPS input fueling will max out until %100.   No additional Power is made, rather the unit can tailor itself to your driving style.  This can be used to help low-end spool or help with City driving to keep power down.  If you set the min above your typical DD TPS input you can disable fueling when you don't need it.

*************************************************************************************************************************************************

Timing:  Timing is what controls the point in the stroke where Diesel is injected into the cylinder based upon the relation of Degree's to TDC.  

Timing Limit: 0- 15*  This will allow you to add timing above stock and above the timing built into the Quadzilla Base tune.  IE: this is NOT how much timing the engine will see, rather how much increase you will see in addition to other factors.    Setting timing higher will typically increase MPG when the engine is at a steady RPM at a steady load, IE: highway driving.  However, it can be risky to set timing above 7* without the correct mods.  Also, Low-end smoke is increased when timing is increased.   Timing is NOT scaled based upon power levels, rather is it applied the same on all levels that have timing increase.

Timing Scaling: 0-%100 This allows you to set how much timing gets pulled from the timing max number set.  You may want more timing down low, but want to pull timing up top.  

IE: Setting Max timing to 10* but scaling to %50 will give you 10* down low but only %50 of that up top so 5*  Setting scaling to %0 would give you 0* up top, while keeping 10* down low.  This is scaled so as you get higher more and more is pulled until the %0 is matched.  This is not dependent on power lvl rather the placement in the timing map based upon multiple inputs.  For the example think of it as pulling more timing based upon scaling in relation to  increasing power output.  

*********************************************************************************************************************************************

Boost compressed air from the turbo.  Fueling is directly related to boost, too much fuel for a given boost level will cause smoke, EGT issues, and lower power output.  It is important to tune fueling to boost.

Boost Scaling: 20-40 psi  Allows you to set the point at which fueling is maximized based upon boost levels.    Setting this to 20 will give you fuel fueling at 20psi, assuming tps min / and maxes are met.  Boost scaling is calculated along with TPS scaling so in order to have %100 of fueling both need to be met.   

*****************************************************************************************************************************************

As a reminder the custom tuning only alters how the base tune loaded fuels.  You cannot fully alter the tuning maps based on custom tuning.  The Above Custom tuning items allow you to move the map around within the limits of what is loaded on the base tune.    

*****************************************************************************************************************************************

Please consider updating your Quadzilla ADR1000, ADR1001, or ADR1002 to the V2 Tuning

Quadzilla Custom Tuning How-To

The Quadzilla Adrenaline allows for a significant amount of custom tuning to be done by the user to alter the way that the Quadzilla ADR commands fueling.    This gives the Quadzilla a significant advantage over other tuners on the market. 

Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 

1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

Side note, if you would rather have a pre built tune to start with you can checkout our tune repository.
https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-quadzilla-v2-custom-tune-repository/
 

It is VERY important to understand that each truck is going to be a little different.  Your truck will run as well as you tune it.  We are more than willing to answer questions about how it works, but putting in the leg work is your responsiblity.  If you follow the Guide posted in Section 3 you should have no trouble making a tune that works well for you.   It is also VASTLY important to datalog while you are tuning.  Compare smoke vs power to the data log to see where you need to add more fuel or pull more fuel.  The Quadzilla V2 tuning is not magic, if you don't put time in to figure out what your truck likes the end result may be less than stellar.  Please also consider if your truck has issues, apparent or hidden, with Sensors / Wiring / Computers the quadzilla platform will bring them to light and will likely not run right until the issues are sorted.  

YOU ALSO MUST HAVE AN IQUAD SETUP, PV1 and PV2 screens are too old and not supported!

If you need to buy a Quadzilla Adrenaline you can order one here.  

https://www.dieselautopower.com/dodge-ram-cummins/1998-5-2002-5-9l-24-valve-dodge-cummins/chips-programmers-and-electronics-1

Use this Excel tool to let you build your tunes in Excel  Download it and use it when building your tunes.

Index:

Section 1: Custom Tuning V2

Section 3: Getting Started with V2 Tuning

Section 4: Example Custom Tunes based upon Injector Size

Section 1: Custom Tuning V2

******* It is important to Note that it is not recommended to stack ANY tuners when using the V2 tuning****

V2 of the custom tuning is the next level of custom tuning for the Quadzilla Adrenaline and the VP44 powered Cummins Power 2nd Gen truck.   

You must have a V2 base tune loaded for these to work along with selecting the V2 vehicle out of the Iquad Vehicle Selection list.  One will not work without the other.  

All the above custom tuning is the same other than power levels and Can TPS Min and Max so I will not go over those again. V2 has everything that V1 has, but more.   Can TPS min and Max are no longer used in V2 tuning as the user can tune CANbus fueling to their own liking above stock, below stock, or at stock levels.   This makes TPS min and max no longer needed.

*************************************************************************************************************************************************

Change to the Power Levels from V1 Tunes

Quadzilla has introduced a new power level called power reduction as the new lvl 1.  As a result, all V1 tuning levels are moved up one,  Lvl 3, Canbus, has also been modified to allow for on the fly user based custom tuning.

Lvls are now:

lvl 0: Stock with boost fooling

lvl 1: Power reduction for reducing power under stock

lvl 2: Timing / MPG mode with Custom user Canbus for 0-10psi with a max of %100.  Over 10 psi is possible, but only using the 10psi scaling % in the custom tuning with a max fueling of %100 of oem.

lvl 3: Canbus Fueling + Timing including CANbus fueling scaling from 0 - 28 psi

lvl 4 +: Wiretap + Canbus + Timing.  The more levels you have the smaller the jump in power per level.

If you have 7 levels, then lvl 4 will be %33 wiretap lvl 5 will be 66% wiretap and lvl 6 will be full wiretap.

Because of the additional lvl we have increased the Max Level to 6 rather than 5 and the upper limit to 15 rather than 14.  

Lvl 1 now gives you a default of %50 power under the OEM tuning.  This will allow pretty much ANY truck with ANY fueling mods to pass emissions that are based on smoke output, without making the truck dangerous on the road.   Using Custom tuning you can set the OEM fueling to anything between 0 and 100% of stock.  With 100 hp injectors setting this to %80 gives good power without smoke.

These custom tuning settings can be switched on the fly without having to download a new tune.  You can store up to 10 custom tunes on your device.  Here you can see I have 3 tunes, Daily, Race, and Tow. 

Here is the screen shots for the new tuning.

Max Power Levels

Power Levels :  You can set the minimize power levels to 5 or max to 14.  

This will give you more or less wiretap levels,  Note that no additional power is made by setting max levels higher.    Rather setting Max Power Levels higher give you more "steps" of wiretap fueling until the max is reached.  

IE: total power lvls = 5 gives you 2 wiretap levels (Remember to always could lvl 0 in your total lvls), so lvl 3 will give you %50 of wiretap stretch and lvl 4 will give you %100 of wiretap stretch whereas setting your max lvls to 14 will give you 12 steps of wiretap fueling lvl 3 would be 1/12th of wiretap stretch lvl 9 would be 7/12th of wiretap stretch and lvl 14 would be 12/12th of wiretap stretch

Power Reduction:

%0-100 gives the user the ability to fine tune how much power they want the truck to have based upon OEM fueling.  Setting Power reduction to 0 will make the truck only idle  Setting Power Reduction to %100 will make the truck run like stock.  Depending on your fueling mods the truck is drivable from %40 to %100.  A truck at 7000' altitude with 7 x .009 injectors will not smoke with this setting set to %75, the truck is still VERY street friendly.    The emissions people will not question why the truck made only 100 hp as you can set the fueling reduction % based on your injectors to match stock power.  

Remember this setting is in the custom tuning menu so you can use multiple custom tunes for valet mode (%50) or Girlfriend / wife mode (%65) or emissions mode (%75) or anti-theft mode ( %0)

****************************************************************************************************************************************************************

RPM LIMIT

We have added a user defined RPM limit variable.  you can set this between 3200 and 3700 rpm.  Keep in Mind that max RPM will depend on the truck configuration.  RPM Limit will put a limit on wiretap fueling.  Canbus fueling is configured based on if the base tune is HardFuel or StandardFuel.   Going over 3500 rpm should be done at your own risk.  Weak pumps will likely not like being forced to rev beyond 3500.

Hardfuel will try and extend canbus to 3500RPM

StandardFuel will let fueling fall off at 3200RPM.

****************************************************************************************************************************************************************

Timing Related Custom Tuning

Max Load Timing Offset: 0*-3* setting that allows up to 3* of RPM timing to be based on load.  This allows you to tune timing based on a bilinear calculation based on load and rpm.  This setting does not increase your max timing, rather it puts weight on Load. 

IE: if your rpm was 2000 and your max timing for 2000 was set at 19*, your load timing was set at 3* and you are at %50 throttle, then you would get ~%50 of load timing ( 1.5*) which would put your current timing at 17.5* ( 19* max - 1.5* = 17.5*).  Where as if you were at %100 throttle then you would get the full 19* of timing at 2000 RPM.

Same example %30 load, would give you %30 of 3* = .9* so at 2000 rpm you would have 16.9* of timing if load was at 30%

this new timing tuning will give you a significant amount of control over timing compared to other tuners on the market.  

Low PSI Timing Reduct

We have added a new tuning variable to allow for the user to set a max amount of time to pull when TPS is high and boost is low.  Pulling timing will assist in spooling the turbo.  The range for this reduction is 0-5*

Timing Reduction Scaling

0-%100 This allows you to set how much timing gets pulled from the Low PSI timing reduct number set.  You may want more timing down low, but want to pull timing up top.  Scaling function will limit max timing but allow for the map to calculate off of the max timing until that point is reached. IE: if timing reduction is set to 5* and scaling is set at %50 you will get a max reduction of 2.5* ( 5 * .50 = 2.5) but if the map calls from %50 you will get 2.5* at %50.  It will effectively allow for you to reach your max sooner.   the graph below so you how it works. 

Light Load Advance:

This setting allows you to advance timing above the base timing curve if load is low.  Timing advancement is based on load % where as %0 load would give you the most timing advance and as load increases timing will decrease.  After 50 mph there is an additional 1* of timing added ontop of the configured value. 

Most setups should run a value of between .5 - 2.5 * of timing advance.  Play around with this setting to see where EGT's are reduced at cruise state. 

Stock injector to ~7 x .009

- Generally speaking 17.5*-18.5* of timing is optimal for best MPG while at cruise at 55-65 mph.

- Generally speaking 18.5*-19.5* of timing is optimal for best MPG while at cruise at 70-80 mph.

- Tow tunes should use a cruise timing advance of .5- 1*  unless studs are in place.

- If you have Headstuds you can add more Light Throttle Timing for reaching the max MPG. 

*** ensure you don't overtime the engine in light load situtations.  It is not recommend to go above 19* timing below 2k rpm at high load unless you have headstuds. set your base rpm curve responsibly so that at %100 load and WOT your timing is not dangerous. 

Light Throttle Load Limit:

This setting it to set the high load limit for light throttle timing advance.  Typically this will be set between 2-30% engine load.  Once this limit is reached the Quadzilla will not use Light throttle timing, and only use fuel load and TPS reduction together to alter the base timing curve defined in the "rpm Timing Max" settings.

RPM Timing Max

Users are given 5 timing settings to set max timing at,  It is  VERY helpful to data log OEM timing to get a grasp of what your truck is "safe" to run.  Leave the Quadzilla on Lvl 0 and do a run with various driving styles.  Make note of timing at 1500 rpm, 2k, 2.5k etc.

1500 rpm: Typically users will want to keep this between ~13*-16* ** Keep in mind that OEM timing is referenced for sub 1500 rpm timing.  You might see timing above or below your 1500 setting at light throttle. 

2000 rpm: Typically users will want to keep this between ~16*-20*

2500 rpm: Typically users will want to keep this between ~20*-25*

 ** please consider the risks of running high timing, Typically stock tuning allows for up to ~26* at 3k rpm.  There are benifits to going higher, like reduced EGT's but be aware of the risk.  If you are running studs then the risk is nominal.  Most other timing boxes on the market will max timing if boost is up after ~2500 rpm

3000 rpm: Typically users will want to keep this between ~25*-30*    ** if you want upper end power then setting your 3k to 30* to max timing will help.  Consider the risks involved with extreme tunes

Max: Typically users will want to keep this between ~26*-30*

 ** please note that setting timing higher than suggested may lead to headgasket issues, please ensure you have supporting mods, IE studs, before venturing outside of the recommendation.

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Boost Related Custom Tuning

CanBus Custom Tuning

In the Custom tuning menu, there are an addition 25 new Custom tuning variables that allow you to set a % of power level above or below stock.  The range for this is %50 - %150 You will need to configure this for each psi leading up to 30psi.  From 0-16psi is a % per psi above 16 psi is % for 2 psi.     It is possible to tune any truck with any injectors to be very clean.  Typically ~%70 is the lowest usable % and %130 is the highest, but this will differ from truck to truck.  Trucks with VERY large injectors may have a Canbus curve that is below %100 for the entire curve.  

Truck with near stock sized injectors will typically set this number above 100% increasing as the PSI increases, trucks with large injectors can set low PSI scaling under %100 to clean up off boost fueling.   You will notice some increase in lag due to this, but you are able to make fine adjustments to get power where you want it throughout the power range.  

The best fueling curve will typically be the smoothest curve to reach full fueling when at WOT.  using %112 will max out fueling on the upper end.  The bigger your injetors as the more gental you want you curve.  

THIS WILL TAKE SOME FINE TUNING ON YOUR PART FOR BEST RESULTS.  MAKE %1 CHANGES ON EACH PSI LEVEL.  IN MOST CASES YOU SHOULD NOT MAKE A JUMP OF MORE THAN %5 GOING FROM PSI TO PSI.  THE HIGHER THE JUMP IN % THE MORE AGGRESSIVE THE QUADZILLA WILL RAMP UP FUELING.

If you want V1 like tuning and you have stockish injectors add 110 to the PSI level you are editing. IE: 0 psi = 110%  5psi = 115%  10psi= 120%  

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Wiretap Tuning

Max Pump Stretch:  sets the upper limit for Wiretap Fueling time.  Typically 2200 is the max on the aggressive tunes.  This is what allows for the calculation of how much pump fueling to use.  Remember that you are setting the max amount of fueling.  This fueling time is altered by many different inputs such as, but not limited to, boost, rpm, APPS, etc  on v1 base tunes lvls 3 - max divide the max stretch by the span IE: if you have 10 levels total 4-10 are wiretap so you have 7 lvls of wiretap on lvl 4 you get 1/7th of additional wiretap fueling, lvl 5 you get 2/7th and so forth. 

Setting Max Pump Stretch higher may reduce total power while increasing Torque under the curve.  If you want upper-end power you would not want to set this to the max.   If you want low-end torque you would set this higher.   Typically people find that 1600-2000 is the happy spot depending on your injector size and driving style.  Smoke output will be increased by setting Stretch higher.

TPS scaling functions:  By watching TPS / APPS input from the driver the Quadzilla can adjust the fueling curves for Wiretap fueling.  This is helpful to tune the Quadzilla to your driving style and can help cut down on low end smoke.  

TPS Pump Max:  This allows for you to set the upper limit for TPS input for wiretap fueling.  Wiretap fueling does not stop at this point, rather it peaks at this point.    Using the max and min settings you can move the wiretap fueling area around within the 0-100% TPS range.

TPS Pump Min: This allows for you to set the lower limit for TPS input for wiretap fueling.  Wiretap fueling will not start until this point is reached.   Using the max and min settings you can move the wiretap fueling area around within the 0-100% TPS range.

Effectively by settings the max and min you are compressing %100 of the fueling between the max's and Mins.  

IE: maxs at 75 and min's at 25, or cutting the tps range to %50.   You will effective double the fueling ramp up once %25 tps is reach until %75 TPS is reached.  At %75 TPS input fueling will max out until %100.   No additional Power is made, rather the unit can tailor itself to your driving style.  This can be used to help low-end spool or help with City driving to keep power down.  If you set the min above your typical DD TPS input you can disable fueling when you don't need it.

Minimum Pump Tap Fueling Percentage: 0-50%   This Tuning variable is to set a low limit % for wiretap.  Caution should be used when setting this setting in your custom tune.  If you set it at %25 you will get no less than %25 of wiretap at any point in the map at WOT.  Setting this high will make the truck smoke, but can be useful when creating a Race tune.  Normal DD tunes should likely use %5 or less.  Smoke free tunes should use %0.

Pump Low boost Scale PSI: 0-25 psi This set the low limit for the wiretap fueling map.  If you set this at 0 your wiretap will begin at 0psi.  If you set this at 15 your wiretap map will start at 15 psi.    Set this variable to whatever PSI you want Wiretap to begin fueling. ** Please note that Boost Scaling V1 tuning cannot set lower than this setting.,  The ADR will add 5 psi to the v1 Boost Scaling if you set them the same.

Boost Scaling: 20-40 psi  Allows you to set the point at which fueling is maximized based upon boost levels.    Setting this to 20 will give you fuel fueling at 20psi, assuming tps min / and maxes are met.  Boost scaling is calculated along with TPS scaling so in order to have %100 of fueling both need to be met.  This setting defines the Y axis of the wiretap map, 20 psi means your map range is 0-20 psi 40 psi means the map is 0-40 psi.   Keep in mind that your pump low boost scale PSI setting defines what "0psi" is.  IE if pump low boost scale is set to 5psi and your boost scaling is set to 20 psi, then the wiretap map will be 5-25 psi.  

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These new custom tuning features are in addition to the V1 custom tuning, so if your TPS is set high that you are currently at you will not have fueling.  All custom tuning mins must be reached for any fueling to happen.

This Video covers the above tuning

Section 2: Getting Started with Quadzilla Adrenaline V2 Custom Tuning

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if you would rather have a pre built tune to start with you can checkout our tune repository. we have lots of tunes that cover various configurations
https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-quadzilla-v2-custom-tune-repository/

When you are starting to use V2 Tune on your truck you should follow these steps.  

1. Find your starting %

2. Set your base map

3. Fine tune your base map

4. Set your Wiretap start point

5. Set your Wiretap Fueling %

This tuning should not be done on busy roads or in any place that risk of crashing or hurting others. A back country road is recommended.

Save your tune after EVERY change.

Don't forget you are able to create more than one custom tune so you can setup a race tune or tow tune or DD tune.  Tune your custom tunes with something in mind. Don't try to make the truck do everything on one tune.  

Step 1.

If you have stock injectors you can set this to 100% or above so you can skip this step and move to Step 2.

Use LVL1 and the Power reduction % to find a good point for the CANbus fueling %.  For 50 hp injectors start at %95 and move up or down by %1 depending on if you get smoke when you snap throttle from 0-%50  while in gear.  Find a reasonable % for smoke output vs low-end power.  Remember this is to handle off idle power.   ENSURE WHEN YOU ARE TESTING YOUR STARTING POINT YOU GO %100 THROTTLE INPut.  You want to set your smoke level as WOT.  This will give you the most resolution in your throttle movement.  IE: if you truck maxes out fueling at %30 throttle, what's the point of the other %70 of throttle movement.  Make %100 fuel %100 throttle.

Good starting points per injector size ***use only as a guide you will need to go through some trial and error.
50 hp injectors %95

100 hp injectors %90

150 hp injectors %85

200 hp injectors %80

250 hp injectors %75

300 hp injectors %70

Once you have found a good starting point Set your 0 PSI % to this power reduction % and set your Power Reduction scale to a % that you want to allow for a valet mode or antitheft or emissions or whatever for reduced power.

Step 2.

Set Quad to Power LVL3

Once you have a good starting point defined for 0 psi scaling increase every % by 1 as you move up in psi.  As you hit 10-15 psi you can move up by 2 or 3 % per psi until you max out at ~%130.  You will notice that the Canbus HP limit is somewhere around %130 depending on the truck and the mods.

This should give you a good base fueling map to fine tune your truck by.

Step 3.

Once you have your base map do some 0-%50 APPS take off's on LVL3 only.  Pay attention to Boost numbers and smoke output.   a video camera is very helpful.  ENSURE YOU ARE NOT AROUND OTHER DRIVERS OR PEOPLE WHEN DOING THIS!!!!!!

You may notice puffs of smoke as PSI climbs, reduce the % at that psi point by 1 if smoke is too much.  If the truck feels laggy at a given PSI increase by %1 until your truck feels good.  Keep in mind that smoke from the tailpipe may cause flooding of the turbo.  A truck will respond best when there is a slight haze under high throttle input.    Don't be afraid to use high TPS input to get the truck moving.  That is what the throttle pedal is for!

Tweak your 0-30 settings until you are happy with how the truck drives on LVL3

Step 4.

Once you have your CANbus tuning done move to wiretap tuning.  Wiretap fueling will increase power significantly when it is used.  Depending on your wants you can set low limit fueling for wiretap.  This will allow for smoke reduction when wiretap comes on.   

Set your low limit for a PSI that is above your normal DD / cruising PSI.  IE if you drive to work every day and don't normally hit 10 psi  set your low limit above 10 psi.     If you want wiretap fueling when you typically drive set the low limit below that.  I would not recommend setting this below 5psi as smoke control is much harder.  Remember low limit allows for wiretap scaling below that point.  TPS min also comes into play so set your pump TPS min at a point that makes sense for your driving style / needs 

Step 5.

Timing tuning is a little tricky and should not be taken lightly.  I suggest that you keep your timing tuning configured as

1500 max: 14*

2000 max: 18*

2500 max: 22*  

3000 max: 25*

max: 26*

UNLESS you have time to do a good amount of data logging and figure out what is best for your truck.  Keep in mind that aggressive timing can cause issues. The above should be considered very safe on pretty much any truck.  OEM timing will hit 26* in stock form.  What you will find however is under the curve power will be improved by adjusting these settings.   

Step 6.

Once you have set your low limit for Wiretap fueling set your scaling.  This scaling will set how much wiretap fueling is added before the low limit is reached.  If you want no wiretap before the low limit set this to %0, if you want half set this to %50 and so forth.  

Typically I leave this between %15 and %25 depending on how aggressive you want the truck to feel when DD'ing the truck.    Setting this % higher will increase smoke output off idle.  

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Section 3: Custom Tunes based upon Injector size

Visit this thread for a list of Users custom tunes.  

https://mopar1973man.com/topic/12002-quadzilla-v2-custom-tunes/

This has some pre built tunes for various setups and needs

https://mopar1973man.com/forum/185-standard-quadzilla-adrenaline-tunes/

Here are videos showing before and after the V2 tuning

If you find this helpful throw a donation my way. %95 of the things I do in regards to Quadzilla are to support the community and I receive no payment for the work. 

Thanks

- Me78569

]

THIS TOOL IS NOT A QUADZILLA POWER LLC DESIGNED TOOL.  Please don't report bugs to them, report them to us.  This Tool was designed by @Carbur8tr with the input from @me78569 

Side note, if you would rather have a pre built tune to start with you can checkout our tune repository.
https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-quadzilla-v2-custom-tune-repository/

It has helpful functions such as

- Ez Tune builder, input your injector size and altitude along with how mild - > wild you want the tune

- Output Timing calculator, input conditions such as rpm load tps and boost then find the outputted timing at a given point

- 3d maps for timing based on inputs. 

- 2d rpm based timing maps
- easily add fuel to a section of the tune

- Import and alter existing tunes

Huge thanks to @Carbur8tr for his work on getting this built for the Quadzilla community.   Please shoot him a Buck or two in the donation prompt that comes up when you use the tool.  There are countless hours involved in the development.  

To download this Excel Macro tool please visit the download section 

How to use the Tool

Step 1.

Double Click the Excel file to open.  You will be asked to donate, click yes if you want to send a few bucks to the guy who put the work in, or No if you want to just use the tune.

Step 2.

When prompted select a tune file that was exported from the Iquad App
You can find a blank V2 tune file HERE 


 

Step 3.

This will Open to the tune builder window.  Ensure you click "enable editing" and "enable content" if they appear at the top

Step 4.

Edit your tune  by inputting your tuning variables into the fiels on the excel spreadsheet.  

You can use the Ez tune builder button on the Form to bring up injector size and Altitude.  These settings will pre populate a safe and clean tune.  you can increase the aggressiveness by selecting a tune setting from mild to wild.  Once you are done with your settings hit the "build Tune"  button to populate the tune builder.  

Use the build charts button to bring up charts of the timing curves and canbus fueling curves

Step 5. 
Export your Tune, click "export tune" and then save it to your desired location.  

Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 

1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

Side note, if you would rather have a pre built tune to start with you can checkout our tune repository.
https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-quadzilla-v2-custom-tune-repository/

You can find the "How To Tune" article here

If you find after watching the below videos that you want to upgrade to the Quadzilla Adrenaline, you can buy one in our store.

Setup

7000' altitude

7 x .009 injectors

HE351ve turbo

Pre-1000 series Quadzilla tune

Stock fueling

Post Quadzilla V2 tuning

Locking TC and lugging the truck at high throttle

Tune changing on the fly

Setup

7000' altitude

7 x .012 at 330 bar

he351ve

Stock Tuning

Quadzilla on V2 tuning lvl 3 canbus WOT leaving light

Quadzilla on V2 tuning lvl 3 canbus WOT Lug Down 

Towing Gooseneck horse trailer %50 throttle take off 7 x .012's 

Setup

7000' altitude

7 x .012 at 350 bar

he351ve

0-60 WOT take off

Setup

7000' altitude

7 x .013 injectors

62/65/12 over 75/96/1.32

Pre Stock tuning

Post with V2 Tuning

Stock and Quad with V2

Setup

Sea level

7 x .014 injectors

hx35 over ht60

WOT take off on lvl 0 vs lvl 3

Setup

Sea Level

7 x .013 at 340 bar pop pressure

hx35(62/64/14) over s475 (75/96/1.32)

Setup

Sea Level

7 x .009 injectors

60/68/14 non-gated

Pre Edge various levels

Post, Quad turned up various driving styles

Looking to buy a Quadzilla here is the links back to Quadzilla Power. 

1998.5 to 2000 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

2001 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

2002 Dodge Ram Quadzilla Adrenaline $699.99

Side note, if you would rather have a pre built tune to start with you can checkout our tune repository.
https://mopar1973man.com/forum/182-quadzilla-v2-custom-tune-repository/