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  2. Did you order and install the fuel pressure sensor? It doesn't come with the quad.
  3. So everything is working but the fuel pressure....it’s in yellow and does not read on the quadzilla...would this be a sensor and I could just order a new one or is the the quad adrenaline itself? Any suggestions would be great I’m kind of at a loss.....
  4. I'm having trouble removing the back 3 injector lines. Not from the head but the brackets holding them down on the deck. Do I need to remove the engine lift bracket to do this, because those bolts wont budge. Where exactly are these bolts located that hold down these lines? Thanks
  5. @JAG1 you might go deaf if you're near my leg
  6. Today
  7. I know a three way switch won't work with this set up but if you splice in an on/off switch in the orange/black wire at the PCM connector B11 would keep the lock up from happening when the switch is in the off (open circuit) position.
  8. Mike @JAG1 excellent incite...the use of a toroid core with multiple winding's to build maximum lumped inductance is an additional way of blocking undesired or extraneous signal on a DC supply line. Many computer monitor manufacturers will have an "egg" on the multi-conductor cable running to the computer mainframe. Much of the high speed switching data on the line can and certainly does radiate undesired digital-hash. Just as an analog DC motor does in run-mode. Here is an example of a home-brew AC line filter constructed around a 2 1/2" toriod core. The properties of the core's "mix" elements (iron,nickle,cadmium) vary and is chosen for the frequencies or band of frequencies targeted for suppression. The amount of "windings" present in this example (core value unknown) generally indicates higher frequencies are to be attenuated and the amount of inductance is nominal but, not enough for our needs in suppressing the trash of aftermarket Lift Pumps drawing 5 to 8 Amps of current. Some of the larger aftermarket Lift Pumps may sink as much as 10+ Amps of current and now we're talking about some real power factors. Here we have an improved choke wound with #10 enameled solid copper that would be capable of conducting larger current demands with very little loss because the wire size has less resistance. This is important to us because we want the maximum voltage to be supplied to the DC motor and not dissipated in the form of heat due to the series resistance of the line or wire making up the choke itself. Here we have a bulk choke constructed on a larger toroid doughnut with tightly packed turns and NO overlapping. This is approaching "real" levels of inductance to virtually "choke" the heck out of the chicken..... @dripleyis not included here. The goal of a bulk DC choke is to build it as large and with as many turns as possible to increase Inductance. The larger the inductance the better it is for low to mid range frequencies of suppression interest. This home-brew choke needs to be packaged to prevent damage and water/snow contamination. This home-brew choke must be located directly at the "noise source" (LP motor input leads) and secured for physical integrity. The use of "Fair-Rite" beads placed onto the DC leads will be of little assistance in our goal of high current DC choking. In a "two wire" run from the power source (plus and minus) you would build chokes for both lines. Yes again @JAG1 Mike...extreme attention to the way a LP mount structure is physically attached to the frame is critical ! The flat surfaces mating together should have NO paint insulating the two flat structures. Put "NoLox" grease between the two surfaces and tighten the mounting bolts to "squish" the grease and protrude outward so as to not allow moisture to collect between the two mating surfaces. Never expect a "bolt" or "screw" to act as a proper ground when you're trying to suppress RF hash. The larger the surfaces are in mating together will provide the best integrity of noise suppression. The noise "is" RF...it does NOT FLOW within a conducting element (wire) it FLOWS on the SURFACE of the conducting element (wire)... it is called SKIN EFFECT... the paint/powder-coating must be removed on ANY MATING SURFACES of a "noise generating" device (DC motor). All the aftermarket Lift Pumps are packaged beautifully. NONE of them have CONTINUITY between their own body elements. During the initial by-passing procedure earlier in this thread I NEGLECTED to highlight a VERY IMPORTANT issue ! @JAG1 has brought this to the forefront. I apologize for this oversight... You must disassemble the entire aftermarket LP unit and clean all mating surfaces to remove ALL ANODIZING and PAINT at EVERY contacting/mating point. NO continuity means NO suppression. I am so very sorry for having left this out of the initial documentation. Please note: the Original Carter LP HAS NO PAINT IN THE ENTIRE CONSTRUCTION of THE DEVICE. I used a Dremel Tool with small bits to "scarify" every hole where an assembly screw/bolt passes through to join another piece of the modular body construction. The beautiful "Anodized" surfaces of the fluid pump body as it mates to the lower fully "Anodized" water separator and fuel filter housing is FULLY NON-CONDUCTIVE ! I'm so very embarrassed to have NOT provided this imperative aspect. Sorry for my major error...there is no way around this...you must completely disassemble the LP platforms to restore full body continuity and then because of the full disassembly procedure, it lends well, to perform the "by-passing" procedure at the motor armature end-cap assembly. I am just mortified by this omission ! @JAG1 Mike...I am sorry... it was my original observation so long ago that drove me into this comprehensive refurbishment of this $700 pain in the A... if I could regain my composure with just a bit of saving grace on my behalf...NOTHING WORTH WHILE IS EASY...this aspect is ONE OF THEM. Indeed, our conversation has come to light in my cluttered mind and I now fully recall my primary reason for this entire thread. MY pump was a pile of junk electronically the day it arrived at my home. It was so bad, I called the manufacturer and spoke directly with the owner of the company. He was a very kind and gracious man. Our conversation continued for 3 hours that day. He openly informed me that his pursuit was into the US Military diesel vehicle contract part procurement program. When the subject matter was fully understood and how the fix would be incorporated into the package the task became daunting. The exchange was professional and enlightening for this gentleman . The aspect of having this product pass the "specification" hurdle for demanding US military standards for electronic compatibility... he then admitted to me that this concept had not been considered. The next day I was offered employment on the Engineering staff of the company...I was honored however: I did not wish to relocate. Again...I am sorry for dragging all my fellow CTD enthusiasts through the mud...credit goes to @JAG1 for surreptitiously stirring the pot of a failing biological hard drive. ...in the future I will have my notes compiled prior to annoying everyone. With humility W-T
  9. Problem is the module under the centre seat needs to see a resistance in each seatbelt circuit, warning light comes on if it sees and open (disconnected) or short ( both wires bridged together) Tonight I connected a 50ohm resistor across the 2 wires and the module puts the light on at key on/start as it should then does all the checks and puts the light off, so a 50ohm resistor works and fools the module into thinking the solenoid is connected and working so this would work on the original seat that has the solenoid missing, trouble is the resistor gets a little too hot for my liking, I did try and find a 12v relay to check ohms on that but I've only got 24v in my van so I'll check tomorrow at work for one, my other option is to pot the resistor into a heatsink, the next steps will depend on whether whitelightening can find a belt but I still think it's worth making a plug in box that will fool the module as wrecking yard belts won't last forever, this needs to be figured out as when the seatbelt light is on the airbag sysyem is disabled AFAIK. The seatbelt works fine with no solenoid it's just the module has a ball bearing inside that if the truck is over a certain angle or upside down it makes a connection and the solenoids tension the belts
  10. Start truck it’s fine,put in gear shuts off,out in reverse shuts off?what should I do
  11. Bboozan1


  12. Yes. I cut the VP44 plug and wires off a bad harness. Put extra long leads on the positive and negative wires to reach the battery. Basically to hot wire the VP44 for testing.
  13. Codes are listed above. I won’t be able to check the WTS light till tomorrow. I’m on duty at the fire station and won’t be home till tomorrow.
  14. Thank you for article. My airdog lift pump is mounted closest to fuel tank as possible. Pump is mounted next to where the pick up bed meets truck cab. Reason is was told these pump designs “push” fuel better than “suck” fuel. But unknown if that is a proven fact or not. At the resent time, my wire relay connection is mounted on the firewall. I could shorten the wire run approx. 8 1/2 feet by extending the relay connection closer to the lift pump. The new wire run from the DC pump to the "shunt capacitor" would then be a length of 1 foot to 18 inches, as opposed to 8 1/2 feet, and not exposed to weather best I can see. Of course it would not be as easy to check fuse, but would be a lot closed to pump motor. If I were to extend the relay connection and fuse, the relay connection would be at lot closer to lift pump, would there be any real benefit? Thank you for your insight
  15. @Mopar1973Man rotate the pump towards the head. Additionally each tooth is if memory serves 5°. If you don't know already the timing mark on the case to pump should be visible, it looks like a chisel punch.
  16. Ok @Mopar1973Man apparently my HAXOR skills aren't what they were 20 yrs ago. I seem to remember that Red Hat was open source (free to download) but I can't find it. I have an older laptop that I am going to use so I don't have to partition a harddrive and make it play nice. Feel free to call me me if you can help so we don't clog up the page. After hours is perfectly fine, I'm usually up until 11 or so. Thanks Mike and Nick for everything you do. I look forward to becoming more of an asset than just a pretty face........
  17. Mike, I say sit back a little. let the site take care of itself and quit pushing thE steam roller thinking if you slack off it will roll back all over you. Believe me it won't. Spend no longer than an hour per day or an hour per week, but shoot me in the foot with 50 rounds, get your life back, step away for God's sake.... it is healthy bud. Good energy for life and happiness go hand in hand, are more important. Having fun again like the old days, joking around, lite hearted is what made this site shine. Your 'buck the trend' honesty and advice made this site shine above all others. Let the site go so you have time and energy to work on others rigs not burned out. BTW, I'm not much of a guy to be on any Board of directors really. I'm at a point in life where if I cannot take care of my being happy and limit the stress level I automatically back away. It's a defense mechanism I found very important to my health.
  18. I cleared them twice and they come back. The vp44 only runs when wired to battery. It might not have pulled fuel on its own since I was still trying to bleed it. With the vp wired to battery it would try to start with the fass connected to 12v but not connected to lift pump plug. Also it will not attempt to start at all with the stock harness connected to the vp.
  19. It does not sounfd good for the pump. Here ismsome info for a little testing before condemning it. The hot is a good one to perform. Bluechipdiesel.com trouble shooting. Having trouble posting the link, but info is there on his site.
  20. Zach harwood

    Zach harwood

  21. Okay I’m not sure I fully understand what putting in a lockup switch will do. I understand how it works and why to put it in but I need to know exactly what changes when it comes to drivability. I guess what what I would like is a 3 way lockup switch that 1. Has completely stock lockup function 2. Can lock/unlock the t/c on demand 3. Can just prevent lockup from happening until commanded by the switch and then can unlock via brake pedal. Is that hat how they all work? Or am I asking for something that doesn’t exist. Ultimately I want to keep it as stock as possible for people like my wife or whoever may use my truck but I also want to be able to delay lockup until I command it or completely block it’s ability to lockup with the flick of a switch because there are many scenarios that I find the t/c wants to lock to early which causes luging, bucking, and difficulty pulling some hills.
  22. Were the old codes ever cleared to see if they come back? The truck should start without lift running unless something is preventing the fuel from being pulled out of the tank. Mine still ran and drove after 2 seperate lift pump failures. Mine is an Air Dog but them and FASS are not that much different.
  23. I did find IBMobiles new titanium hip. Just about blew the earphones off my head. You know every bit of practice helps learn more about it. LOL
  24. I found the iron ring that came out of an old computer charging system. Could I use that as a simpler way to reduce AC noise from the lift pump? I think you told me that one could wrap the iron ring with quality wire (sort of like a winding), grounding it to the frame and run the lift pump harness through it. Also ground the lift pump housing. Would this be a alternative, not as good of course, but perhaps somewhat effective? Thank you in advance.
  25. Last fall my truck started my truck started experiencing symptoms of VP44 failure. My truck is a H.O with 142xxx miles. What happens is after driving it for a period of time longer than say a half hour and shutting the truck off, if I would try starting it again about a half hour after it was off the CEL would come on. The truck would idle fine but when i go to hit the throttle it revs to 1400 RPM uncontrollably, it feel's like its either giving it the amount of fuel it needs for idle or WOT, no in between. It also won't rev pass 1400, I'm assuming that is due to reduced power from the CEL. So the truck would be idling fine for a while and then it would just cut out randomly. I could then start it again and most of the time it starts and the throttle acts normal again. If I go on a long ride and then let the truck sit for an extended period of time (5 hours or so) this doesn't happen. In the winter this issue wouldn't occur except for once when I went on a 2 hour ride. I think the electronics on the pump started to go and when they overheat something shorts or opens and it doesn't allow for proper fueling. Now that its closer to summer and its hotter out this happens more often and some times the truck won't cut out when idling (I've had it idling for 20 minutes or so and nothing happened) and doesn't return to normal unless it sits for an extended period of time. The codes shown are 1688 and 1689, internal injection pump failure and failure to communicate to the ECM. Whats strange/frustrating about this is that when it does run normally it runs perfect so its hard to believe its the pump. What leads me to believe it is the pump though is last summer when i got the truck the fuse in my power circuit for my FASS went out and i drove without a lift pump for probably around a week without noticing. Now I always make sure to listen for the lift pump to run on ignition on and have since installed gauges (constant 17 psi fuel pressure). Any thoughts on ifthis is the IP would be appreciated
  26. Welcometmnm


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