dseabaugh

Tested wires for a few more days and tested pressures. They sucked on O.D. and Reverse. cerberusium on TDR told my how to make it shift with mistery switches. Took it for a 23 mile trip and it finally shifted halfway normal at 7 miles on the highway. here's the final answer. Had to be air locked or pistons still too tight in the bore with the teflon seals and steel piston rings. something else that tells me it was air locked is I had to put in 1 more qt of oil when I got home. Checked all the pressures today. All are 20# over specs except reverse which runs a steady 250 any speed or rpm and O.D. that runs a steady 100 psi. Tried to run off computer again. No go. Checked pressures on trans again. They be good. all are 20# over specs except O.D. which is 100# and reverse that runs a steady 250# nomatter what the speed. plugged in computer, still won't shift except 1-2-3 Works fine on mistery switches. will replace that p.o.crapola. in dec. when I figure we have enough $ saved to buy one. Thanks for everyone's help. it is VERY VERY much appreciated. thanks d

This may be helpful to someone sometime. Info came from a guy on TDR. cerberusiam Join Date Oct 2001 Location McDonough GA Posts 7,231 Yikes, should have come here the first time you had problems. Would have saved a lot of $$ and hassle. OD and lockup are all computer controlled. The TPS contributes to when it shifts but it is far form all. The PCM ultimately determines if lockup and OD happen. The first thing you need to do is verify it is mechanical or electronic issue. Validate you have 12 volts on one wire in the trans control harness with the key on. There will be one wire that is larger than the others and will be hot all the time with key on. If you cannot find 12 volts you have a problem in the harness somewhere. This is the power for the solenoids for TCC and OD so it must work or all rebuilding will be to no avail. If you have power to the trans, go to Radio shack and get yourslef 2 switches, single pole single throw simple on and off switches. Get 2 1/2 watt 33 ohm resistors, they usually have them in bulk. A roll of 18 gauge wire. Probbaly a total of $7-10. You wan tto wire these switches into the round trans control plug on the transmission. IIRC, pine #6 is the OD, pin #7 is the lockup. These are the sense wires the PCM grounds to activate the functions. Tap each wire with a scotch loc and run each wire to a seprate switch. From the other side of the switch wire to the resistor then to a chassis ground. Whne you flip the switch to on you will complete the circuit and activate the solenoids for TCC and OD. If you transmission is good and all the hard parts work they will engage. That tells you if it is mechanical or electronic and if it works you now have your functionality back, albeit manually but it is better than nothing. All your pressure slook good except reverse. It should go to 300 psi, or thereabouts, and stay. Dropping like that sounds like there is a leak somewhere. Two components engage for reverse, rear servo and direct clutch pack. Either could have a leak that is dropping the pressure. That wil cause some shudder in drive and maybe reverse if that pressure is low, under heavy load it will slip. Neither problem will cause OD or TCC to not engage. Gov pressure is related to wheel speed so until you get the wheels rolling that pressure will geberally be zero. If you put the truck on jack stands the gov pressure should rouhgly follow wheen speed up to about 60 mph or so. OD port will show no pressure until the solenoid engages. Wire in the mystery switch and see if it will enagage then test the pressure for accuracy. Hope this helps get you on the right track.

I have heard that. I was rearended and dealer replaced alternator and wiring harness from trailer hitch to front wheel well because it shorted trailer plug and melted part of wire before the 40 amp fuse blew. When I unplug and plug in the big connector on the PCM you can hear the alt click and the cruise control servo click.

Error . Trans has been pulled and torn down 3 times.

trans has been pulled and torn down 2 times, 1 including tearing down another trans and matching parts piece by piece. resealed each time That is why I started chasing electric. I would have swapped VB to try that if the VB I ordered on ebay had not been to junky and dirty to put in. I know no-one around here with a similar truck. They are either gassers, 48RE 24 valves or newer

Yes it did shift before converter swap There were intermitent shift issues to lock-up before the swap. When the converter was installed trans had a complete teardown and all wear items replaced as well as all electric incl harness and all billet pistons.

Ohmed between a few days ago. No short. Unplugged round trans plug from trans this morn. No change.

correct. reading is same at the black C1 plug at the PCM but it you unplug the C! connector at the PCM, then the voltages on the PCM w/o anything plugged in are correct. I checked the wire for short between pcm and TPS. No short. Even cut the wires and ran new ones to make certain. Worked on it till midnight. Exhausted but first full nights sleep in a year. @ PCM plug C1 or A, ignition switch to on 9 orange wire -0- 8 engine speed signal grey w/ blk stripe .04 v 7 yellow withred stripe 11.46v 6 park neutral black w/white stripe .04v 2 fused start/run green 11.82v 17 5v to TPS 5.09v 16 Coolant sensor signal Pink w/ blacke stripe 5.09 15 Blk w/red stripe 4.0v 31 grnd to engine 30 assume another ground 27 grn w/pink stripe 5.07v 23 TPS signal wire 1.53 on PCM w/PCm connector unplugged, 5.09 when it is plugged in. 22 fused battery 11.82v 4 ground to TPS, Speed sensor, Coolant sensor, Engine speed sensor, all solenoids in trans You can note sinc elast email, i have some voltages onwires I have no idea where they go to I am wondering if there is an incompatability between the new sensors in the trans and the new VB harness. If I remeber correctly wire 1 on the plug that goes into the top of the VB had a fraction of the 12v someone told me it should have several weeks ago. Will check again afterwhile. I think that goes from the Trans relay to trans. I tried jumping 12v across relay and made no change.

Here's what I have on the C1 or A black connector. 14 wires total 9 no clue where it goes 8 Engine crank sensor signal 7 no clue 6 park neutral switch 2 Fused start run. has 11.82 volts. ( batteries are a shade low after 3 months trying to fix this) 17 5 volt from PCM to TPs . has 5.09 like is 'sposed 16 Coolant temp sensor 15 no clue 31 ground to engine. I put lots of extra grounds on the truck years ago to make sure I had no light dimming for night driving. The advantage of using dueal top/side post batteries. 30 No clue again 27 no clue 23 TPS Signal wire. PCM voltage is 1.53 with A plug unplugged, 5.09 if you plug it back in 22 fused to battery 11.82 v. 4 ground to: TPS, Speed Sensor, Engine coolant sensor, All Solenoids in trans, crank sensor

I thought PCm yesterday till I found the PCM voltages are correct with the black plug unplugged form it and then they go wonky if you plug it in. Plug has 2) grounds, 1 hot fused ( engine fuse i think) 2) 5 volt terminals and the 1 signal wire to the TPS. that leaves one of the other 8 wires from somewhere is triggering the computer to go wonky is my thought. I just don't know what sensor ??? could do that. Thanks for your thoughts. I have this posted on many forums, this is the second time I've tried and you are the only one that has given some logical thoughts related to the problem. I appreciate it. d

I would expect 1.5 v on one wire, 5 on another. When I plug the black plug into the PCM the voltage jumps from 1.53 to 5.09. the voltages are right on the PCM when nothing is plugged into it. I tested 22 hot to 23 signal wires at the PCM plug unplugged and unplugged at the TPS with an ohm meter and there was no short. I had also tried cutting the 23 wire at pcm plug but voltage would again show 5.09 instead of 1.53 The diagram I have shows 6 wires on the black PCM plug but I have 14. I am suspecting one of these wires or wherever they lead from is triggering the PCM to put the whole juice through. I don't know. I 'm lost. $3000 in this thing when I had only planned on $1000 and 160 hours work and I am out of ideas. Called the dealer today. They quoted me $100 to check the PCM on the truck only plus $100 per hour. Can't afford it. On a side note, this is the same dealer that rebuilt the trans under warranty in 1999. I was not happy then becaus it was not the same trans it had been before shift wise or otherwise. Had junk yard paint markings all over it and TC, but it has run for years. When I tore it down I found parts welded up and washers stacked up behind the aluminum planetaries where they had been chewed up, even worn grooves into the steel pins, but they just washered up the slack. sadly we have never had a good dealer and I have had 3 new ones since 1987. Yes the 5v when I plug in the plug when it should read the same 1.53 as it does with nothing plugged in is flooring me. I don't know anyone knowelegable in Dodges to call. everyone I know are ford fanatics.

Converter has been the same one since the first install. It's got 8 miles on it now from road testing it each time. Will shift to 3rd sometimes, not always. Never od. All gears were working before the teardown after TPS and Output sensor replace. months of intermittant before they were replaced. I do not go anywhere much any more. This truck has only had 12,000 miles put on in in the last 7 years. garage kept. Drainback is horrible after it shuts off. takes a bit to get the thing going. Drain back has been an issue when parked ever since the BD v.b was installed new in 1999 but not as bad as it is now.

The pressures are posted . scroll down. this is a 97 12v. Pressures were tested warmed up. FSM says reverse should be 300/300 i had 300 drops to 100 and /0 on the other port O.d has been an on and off issue as well as torque converter shudder for 4 years. in Drive the accumulator port shows 100 book says it should be 60, the front servo shows zero, book says it should be 60 I am no trying to find out where that orange signal wire from the TPS goes to. I assume some teminal on the PCM. Stealer says I have to make an appointment plus bring the truck to them to test the PCM. somewhere the signal is getting 5 volts when the wire is unplugged from the TPS in other words on the plug unplugged I haf voltage of 0-5-5. d

My stepson in Chicago tells me this foum has the smartest people on earth for trouble shooting. This is the 3rd forum I 've asked on so it must be the charm. No shift, trans torn down 3 times, electrics replaced 3 times. this is long details This is the ongoing No shift issue of 3 months continuing teardowns and parts replacements today's TPS wires show wrong voltage unplugged. results next paragraph. http://www.cumminsforum.com/forum/94...ight-help.html which is also copied below. This morning I decided to follow JL12valves advice and check the TPS again. Put i pin in the middle wire ( orange) and got 5 volts at idle and 5 at WOT. I think is should have read 1.5 to about 3 at WOT. I unplugged it and checked the wires. Black wire 0 as should be it's ground Orange wire ( center signal I think) 5.04 v Purple wire 5.09 volts Here's the deal. 1997 2500 4x4 47RE auto will not shift to O.D. or lock the torque. I've owned it since it was a year old. pretty much stock except torque plate and Jimmy jammers in doors. Transmission rebuilt under warranty in 1999 @ 70,000 BD V.B installed in 1999 The last 4 years the tranny would shudder under a heavy load unless the throttle was light. No metal in the pan, ever. Always had synthetic oil with regular changes. Saved up for a new oversize clutch billet torque converter and Kolene kit and finally purchased in Jan. Takes a long time. $434.50 a month SS only goes so far. I should have taken the offer from a couple of you guys who offered to rebuild it for free the year I had 10 surgeries but I was not up to the long drive and years of hard work and pride make charity hard to accept so I didn't. started not shifting into o.d. in June. 129,000 on the clock. Drove to town for code read. code said output sensor so replaced it. All fine. Pulled the transmission so I could put the converter and kit in. Needed the core $ bad. Put the rebuild kit in too. Put in another V.B. I had after putting a transgo kit in it. Plus new borg electrics and harness. No shift to 3-O.D. $200 in Amsoil. Put the BD V.B in . Still the same. Changed the electrics again. No change. Put 100 Ohm resister in B31 wire. No change. Jumped the terminals at the relay so it had 12v all the time on #1 wire on trans plug. still no difference. Pulled transmission, tore down, new seal kit my stepson bought me since I was out of parts $, found nothing out of order. BD v.b. installed again with new electrics again. New Trans relay. TPS again. At this point I do not know if any electrics are good and have switched them so many times I have lost track which is which other than the Borg ones are bigger. Pulled transmission out again and still find nothing wrong. Ordered a VB on ebay and could not install it because the holes were full of dirt. Not going to tear down another VB when it is supposed to be useable. ( still no answer to the request to return for a refund). Put gauges on trans today. No change in trans operation. Gauge test results below. Nobody has anything in this town any more. Spent 4 hours going place to place trying to find fittings to use my hoses. Had to buy new hoses and could not get 400 lb hose w/o spending $100 on hydraulic. WTF? I have a hundred feet of hydraulic hose but could get no fittings. Auto Tire and parts had a hose rated at 300# and it would literally swell up in my hand when the pressure would hit 300. The way it swells up, I don't want to know how close the burst pressure is to that. That's why I pulled the truck outside to test. Here's my tests results. Do not match anything in my trouble shoot book so I have no clue what they mean other than the only thing that is right is 1st and 2nd. sorry the cloumn headers do not line up. Cannot get them to do that on any forum. test port pressure rpm pressure with TV valve lever pulled back Low accumulator 60 1000 110 rear servo 60 1000 110 2nd accumulator 65 1000 92 Drive accumulator 100 1600 100 front Servo -0- 1600 -0- Reverse Rear servo 300 as soon as put in gear then drops to 100 and stays there 1600 rpm governor governor in drive -0- all O.D. O.D. -0- I need help figuring out what this means. I have literally spent the last 3 months working on this thing plus the last 3 months SS check on seals, electrics, filters, etc. I am to the point if I spend 1 more $, I cannot make next months house payment. Advice would be very helpful. Thanks. '97 2500 club cab SLT Longbed 4x4 auto, #6 plate,fwd; 24v starter contacts.355 gears.Oversize wheel cyls, BD power Valve Body. 75 hp no-smoke injectors from Red Oak Diesel that smoke, DSS stabilizer, 70a fuel shut-off relay, 118,000 mi 12/07 after 8 yers ownership. all Synthetic, Luke's link ,Jimmi Jammers