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New to this forum, seems like a knowledgeable group of guys (shout out to y'all) However I'm having issues with my 2001 5 speed. She has a quadzilla adrenaline tuner, scheid diesel 100hp injectors, and an edge boost elbow. After installing the injectors she has a slight white haze coming from both the exhaust and the engine compartment. Both are very light. The exhaust gets denser when accelerating, and sometimes turns black. It seems to smell normal (not sweet like coolant, or like burnt oil). What could cause these symptoms if of concern at all? It also is is jerky/studdery at around 1200 rpm, but smoothes out at higher rpm, or harder throttle input. Also I have a stock clutch, with very low mileage on it. It seems to rattle under harder acceleration, is that just due to the clutch not liking the torque?

Denso Alternator Modification I'm doing this write-up in case anyone runs into the problem I did and they don't want to buy a new or find another style alternator. After I bought the diode replacement and tried to install it I realized that it was slightly different from mine. Note: The new lead is smaller in diameter and shorter than the old lead. Here is a link on how to take the alternator apart written by IBMobile. If yours is like mine and the lead comes off the side the B+ post nut sizes will be a 13mm but the steps will be the same. Tools required for modification: * Small cut off wheel or Air saw * Ball-peen hammer * Small files * Drill and bits Hardwear required: Two M6-1.0 nuts The original diode pack has the lead coming off the side sticking through 2 tabs. The new diode lead sits on top of one of the stud. Take a small cut off wheel or air saw and cut roughly where the sharpie mark is. I cut a little too much off but this is what it should look like. Drill 2 holes left of the letter B for the lead to stick through. Then use a small file to make the hole bigger. Once you can see the small U shape around the bottom of the Lead where the insulator sits, take a ball-peen hammer and bend down the metal around it so it sits flat. Youll need to trim the hole big enough that the back of the original lead insulator fits through it. Now you need to take the old lead insulator and cut out a piece for the cable to sit lower on the lead. You'll need to do this on the same side but opposite end of the flat part of the U shape. You'll also need to take a 7/16 drill bit and drill a little of the center out so the first nut you screw on can sit further down and the cable lead can sit flush on top of the nut and plastic insulator. Put everything back together and install the Alternator. Put the insulator on and tighten the first nut down. This will hold the insulator in place. Next, install the cable lead and next nut. The cable should stick out of the notch you cut. Since the diode lead is shorter there won't be much of the threads sticking out after the 2nd nut is put on. View full Cummins article

Hey all, I have a 2001 24v and a few months ago i started noticing the throttle acting weird / revving up and letting off on its own a tiny bit when cruising around 55mph, I would then put it on cruise control and wouldn't notice it. Then the other day I noticed after driving on the highway/ with cruise control I'd get off to get fuel and the truck would be idling high around 1k until I shut it off and re start then it would be fine. Finally on the trip home I was running 70mph with cruise control on and the cruise control cut off and the throttle went unresponsive and threw a check engine light. I did the key thing to get the codes on the dash and got p0500,p1693,p0121,p0523,p0602. I'm running a Smarty and from my uneducated google knowledge I'm assuming I have a bad apps and if I replace it I should be good to go. My question for all of you is, is my assumption of having a bad apps correct, is there anything else I should look into from those codes. Also if I do need a apps where should I buy it. My brother inlaw is a self employed mechanic and seems to get parts cheaper if thats a consideration, i'm pretty sure thats just threw people he has accounts with though such as orileys, napa places like that. All your help and knowledge would be appreciated. Thank you.

Gents and ladies, This is my first post on any forum ever but I figured mopar mans forum would be the best. I'm really stuck on what's happening with my truck and it's so annoying because I just got it running beautifully not too long ago. I will start off with some back ground of the truck and the problem. Its a 2001 with about 210k miles, 2wd, automatic trans, bhaf air filter, 4 inch straight pipe, and until recently (I took it off thinking maybe it was causing my issues) an old quadzilla adrenaline that replaced my super chips (I say old because it is one of the first boxes made and I got it used, had the big power resistor replaced, then tested at quadzilla and verified). Now the problem started about a week ago when I noticed that my rpms were kind of bouncing around at 1000 when coming to a stop from higher speeds. I would be doing about 50 and then let off the accelerator pedal, apply brakes, and once in maybe 2nd gear the rpms kind of bounced at 1000 and you could hear it in the engine. They would then return to about 750 once below say 10 mph. This happened for 2 days and on the second day I arrived home and placed the truck in park and noticed it was idling at 1000 rpms. I also noticed a very random, intermittent spike in the rpms as it sat there idling and could hear it in the engine. I'm not sure what a miss sounds like but that's my best guess. This is when I removed my adrenaline. The next day the problems persisted and I noticed that the truck was running rougher than usual. I hooked up my scan gauge 2 and saw that my tps was at 1 and was spiking to about 12 at all times. Once above 12 or so it would stop spiking. As a quick fix attempt I turned down my timbo apps until the rpms sounded about normal and then reset/calibrated the apps. The tps is still stuck on 1 and spiking to around 12 randomly. I recently replaced my iat sensor (not with a CUMMINS part) as it was faulty and was causing dead pedal issues so I unplugged that thinking the cheap sensor I bought was causing it. No luck. I then unplugged my map sensor as I've read many times that this cause rough idling. No luck. It has also been cleaned recently and seems to be functioning properly per my scan gauge. Since readjusting my apps the rpms have come down a little but are still high in park and neutral only(goes to normal when in drive). The only other information I could see worthy to include is that when I had the quad on I didn't tap the pump wire so I only had levels 0-2. When driving with it on 2 or 1 I noticed what seemed to be the tc locking and unlocking and it got more noticeable as the levels increased from 0-2(can't really feel it with it on 1). I assumed this was because it is an old box but idk that it could have been creating additional ac noise? I havent been been able to do any troubleshooting but when I get time this weekend I will be first checking the alternator for excess noise (even though it's fairly new) and then testing the entire apps harness per instructions found on this site. The only other thing I can think to check is the camshaft position sensor. Any thoughts? I have no codes being thrown and no dash lights illuminated. Any suggestions would be greatly appreciated and I really want/need to get this thing fixed. She's the love of my life. forgot to add that I also have a raptor 100 and gauges, though glowshift. Fuel pressure has always been 18 at idle and 16 at wot. It seems to be a little lower now from what I assume is because the truck is idling higher. It sits closer to 17 idling in park.